Christmas dinner: where to shop and what to eat

[bavila]

Greetings, everyone. While I am familiar with the culinary customs of my Cajun heritage, I'd like to expand my repertoire and branch out into some regional French cuisine, and thought that Christmas might be a good place to start. My mother's heritage is Alsatian, and my father's side is Cajun of unknown French origin (I've read that Cajuns came from Brittany, Normandy, Poitou, Picardy, and Provence -- so who knows!?! ) I welcome any and all suggestions fo menus/books/recipes/etc.

Merci beaucoups!

[bleudauvergne]

Greetings, everyone.  While I am familiar with the culinary customs of my Cajun heritage, I'd like to expand my repertoire and branch out into some regional French cuisine, and thought that Christmas might be a good place to start.  My mother's heritage is Alsatian, and my father's side is Cajun of unknown French origin (I've read that Cajuns came from Brittany, Normandy, Poitou, Picardy, and Provence -- so who knows!?!  )  I welcome any and all suggestions fo menus/books/recipes/etc.

Merci beaucoups!

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Hey bavila,

I have a friend who's family is also Alsacian. She comes to work every year with gingerbread cookies made by her grandmother. This is not generally French, but specifically Alsacian. You might also look into the wonderful wines that the region offers.

I wish I could be more help to you. I'll keep thinking about possible cookbook resources.

[jackal10]

My family is also from Alsace, a little village called Durmenach.

However they celebrated Channukah not Christmas.

In France, the main meal is on Christmas eve: Reveillon. A meatless meal before midnight mass, and a meat meal after, with the traditional "13 deserts".

However each region has its own traditions, and some even celebrate on different days (In eastern and northern France, the Christmas season begins on 6 December, la fête de Saint Nicolas, and in some provinces la fête des Rois (6th Jan is the main day) In Lyon, it is 8 December is la Fête de lumières,

[Busboy]

You've put me in a grumpy mood (at least until I get my coffee) because I wanted to recommend Madeleine Kamman's When French Women Cook as a wondeerful introduction to a variety of regional cuisines, but now I can't find my copy. And I had sworn to cook through it this winter.

Oh, well -- it will turn up.

The book is a series recollections from Kamman's childhood and young womanhood, each framed by the region in which she was staying and the woman who was the cooking for or with her at the time. Each chapter evokes extraordinary images of gathering cockles on the Breton Coast or mushrooming ion Normandy, and old farm houses with vast fireplaces that produce warm civets on cold Savoyard evenings, and a series of recipes from the region. Even those of us who may be a little weary of gauzy meomories' of chefs' childhoods are likely to get caught up. And the recipes, while not "holiday" in in particular, tend towards the hearty and warm - perfect for the season. (Time for me to find the book and make the rillets agian).

The LaRousse Gastronomique, well worth owning regardless, also has a headline description of the specialties of most French regions, including those not popular enough to have their own cookbooks available at the Barnes and Noble; often you can track the actual recipes down elsewhere in the book.

"Poitou...the cattle raised in Parthenay and Bressuire provide excellent meat...anong the typical local dishes is potee a la tete de porc , which furnishes both a soup and the main course: the pigs head is cut into pieces and eaten with sea salt and a dash of vinegar [sounds like Christmas Dinner to me!] ...the cotriade, a kind of bouillabaisse....notable sweets and pastries include the tourteau fromage...a selection of non-vintage local wines..."

[mzimbeck]

Salut eGulleteers,

This will be the first time I'm actually in Paris for Christmas, so I don't know the routine for market closures around the holidays.

Are markets generally closed or open on the 24th/25th? Just wondering if fresh shellfish would be a possibility on the 25th, and if I need to shop ahead for fresh veg.

Thanks for any advice,

Meg

[John Talbott]

Salut eGulleteers,

This will be the first time I'm actually in Paris for Christmas, so I don't know the routine for market closures around the holidays.

Are markets generally closed or open on the 24th/25th? Just wondering if fresh shellfish would be a possibility on the 25th, and if I need to shop ahead for fresh veg.

Thanks for any advice,

Meg

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Well, my street markets close Sunday at 1 PM and Mondays anyway so the point is moot. My Monoprix is usually open abbreviated hours on holiday Mondays but I'd look for signs a few days before or ask rather than count on past experience. I think for shellfish I'd buy ahead no matter and veggies too unless you forget something, in which case the local "Arab," (not a slur, cf "Monsieur Ibrahim et les fleurs du Coran") is always open Christian holidays - at least mine is.

[Felice]

This week’s A Nous Paris lists the best places to shop for everything you’ll need for a Christmas dinner in Paris.

The Wine

Caviste Les Crus du Soleil (14th)

Oysters

L’Ecume Saint Honoré (1st)

Butter

La Grande Epicerie de Paris for Jean Yves Bordier’s famous butter

Caviar

Caviar House and Prunier (8th)

Unusual Items

Brittany monk fish liver at Monoprix

Truffled eggs from Desnoyer (14th)

Foie Gras

Detou (2nd)

Ham

Bellota Bellota (7th)

Lobster

Daguerre Marée (14th)

Poultry

Piètrement Lambret et Cie (1st)

Butcher

Desnoyer (14th)

Dried fruits

Israël (4th)

Champagne

Lafayette Gourmet (9th)

Sweets

Martine Lambert (7th)

Coffee

Verlet (1st)

Chocolates

Monoprix and Pierre Marcolini (6th)

[John Talbott]

Great list Phyllis.

Another spin (targeted to Christmas and New Year's Eves) was given in Monday's Figaro by Alexandra Michot that I put up here.

[Felice]

Members might also be interested in an article in this week's L'Express (in French) which features Christmas recipes by Hélène Darroze, Pierre Gagnaire, Rougui Dia, and Guy Martin and includes their favorite purveyors.

Réveillon intime chez les chefs

[little ms foodie]

I was in the 17th last year for xmas and we shopped the outdoor street market the morning of the 25th! It was just east of Batignolles I think?? Forest if you're reading this chime in please!!

[Ptipois]

About street markets, as a general rule: if their fixed days are Sunday, Monday, etc., they will still be held on said days, no matter if it is a holiday or not. However, street markets seldom take place on Mondays.

[Forest]

Hi Wendy! Yep, my market is on rue Levis and was open last year on the 25th, which was a Sunday...sunday is its fixed day to be open, so I imagine it will be this year on the 24th.

for more detailed info on markets, see the list on the Mairie de Paris site at: http://www.v1.paris.fr/en/Living/markets/default.ASP

Enjoy your Christmas in Paris!

[John Talbott]

However, street markets seldom take place on Mondays.

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As always, Ptit has the scoop and is correct. In addition to the link Forest gave, VivreManger also put together the list in English here.

[John Talbott]

Members might also be interested in an article in this week's L'Express (in French) which features Christmas recipes by Hélène Darroze, Pierre Gagnaire, Rougui Dia, and Guy Martin and includes their favorite purveyors.

Réveillon intime chez les chefs

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And in an article in Expatica, the author expounds on typical Christmas eve dinner fare, giving links to recipes, that can include: champagne or kir royal, fancy cocktails, amuse-gueules, artichoke with foie gras canapés, blinis and caviar with 'Crème Sure,' foie gras with sweet wine, escargots, oysters (recipe with caviar and sabayon of champagne), goose (Alsace) and turkey (Burgundy) with chestnut stuffing, duck, ham and fish, lobster, crab, or game meats such as venison or boar, cranberries (recipe: a duck breast with them), and desserts such as a bûche de Noël but also regional specialties, such as the 13 desserts of Provence mentioned on the dessert thread) and pain d'épice, kougelhopf and springerle of Alsace.

[Dave Hatfield]

I wanted to wish all eGulleteers a Merry Christmas, but didn't reckon I'd get away with as its not exactly food related. So, here's the food related part.

The Christmas lunch we're having with friends:

Various amuses

Caesar Salad

Roast de-constructed turkey with

2 stuffing's (forcemeat & apple)

Roasted potatoes

roasted sweet potatoes

Carrots with orange & lemon

Roasted parsnips with parmigiana drizzled with goose fat.

Turkey gravy

Cheese platter (Mont D'or, cabecou (s), herb crusted chevre , brabise & blue de causses)

English Christmas pudding with hot custard.

We may drink some wine.

That's the food part. so in parting.

Merry Christmas everyone.

Edited December 24, 2006 by Dave Hatfield (log)

[Ptipois]

Merry Christmas, Dave. But how do you deconstruct a turkey?

[John Talbott]

I wanted to wish all eGulleteers a Merry Christmas, but didn't reckon I'd get away with as its not exactly food related.

Well, this is true, but on this Eve (the first of two revillions) we can all wish each other a Merry Christmas Eve meal and even a Merry Christmas meal, non?

And I too, wanna know about deconstructing a turkey; I assume, before, not after, it's cooked.

[Dave Hatfield]

I wanted to wish all eGulleteers a Merry Christmas, but didn't reckon I'd get away with as its not exactly food related.

Well, this is true, but on this Eve (the first of two revillions) we can all wish each other a Merry Christmas Eve meal and even a Merry Christmas meal, non?

And I too, wanna know about deconstructing a turkey; I assume, before, not after, it's cooked.

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No originality claimed; I first saw the recipe in a Julia Child book. It works well though, I've been doing it this way for years.

1) Take the legs & thighs off the carcass at the thigh joint.

2) Chop out the backbone using a meat cleaver.

3) Bone the leg/ thighs.

Turkey is now deconstructed.

You put fresh sage + S&P into the leg/thighs & sew them up. Place in a roasting tin. (Note: don't worry about the leg tendons these will pull out easily AFTER roasting.) They only take about an hour or a bit more of roasting.

For the main part of the bird cut off the wing tips then tie the wings close to the body. Season the outside (I just use some butter + S&P) You can place your stuffing(s) under the body & under the neck flap. Roast the body, breast side up, for about 3-4 hours depending upon size.

The beauty of this method is that both parts cook for the appropriate amount of time so can be cooked to perfection. You can even do a 4 legged turkey if you have lots of dark meat lovers.

Make gravy in the usual way.

PS: you can deconstruct a day or so in advance then use the neck, backbone, thigh/leg bones for making your stock. Its then ready on the day.

Too late for Christmas, but in time for New Year's.

[Felice]

I had to find a very last minute Buche de Noel yesterday and so not knowing where else to go really, I made my way across town to Pierre Hermé. From the looks of the line that snaked down the street, half of Paris had the same idea. Thankfully I remembered that Sadaharu Aoki wasn't far and thought I might have better luck there. It turned out to be much better choice as the shop was mostly empty and I was in and out within a few minutes with my not very tradational macha green tea bouche.

[Ptipois]

I love the little chocolate slabs on top of it. Was it good?

[Felice]

I love the little chocolate slabs on top of it. Was it good?

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Well, the cake came at the end of a 9 course meal and several bottles of wine, so my memories of it are a bit fuzzy, but I think I was a little underwhelmed actually. However, I've had his pastries before and loved them.

[Ptipois]

Well, the cake came at the end of a 9 course meal and several bottles of wine, so my memories of it are a bit fuzzy, but I think I was a little underwhelmed actually. However, I've had his pastries before and loved them.

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All the Aoki pastries I've had so far were very pretty but definitely too sweet. Too much sugar kills the taste but the cakes sure look beautiful.