Food news from Crete?

[JGreen7292]

Looking for not necessarily off the beaten path but really good local food in Crete, particularly around Chania -- also olive oil and wine events in October....

[Busboy]

Looking for not necessarily off the beaten path but really good local food in Crete, particularly around Chania -- also olive oil and wine events in October....

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I'm not sure of the exact timing, but early fall is when the Cretans make their raki for the year. Raki is similar to grappa, distilled from what's left after the grapes are pressed for wine. Sometimes it's flavored -- a lot of the raki that makes it to the U.S. anise-flavored, the Cretans and other Greeks use anise, but other flavors as well, especially honey -- sometimes it's just bottled as straight rotgut.

Anyway, if you get there at the right time, it's apparently like one huge backcountry block party, a probably well worth additional nosing around to see if there is any part of it you can crash.

[athinaeos]

For fish I recommend Argentina in Kolymbari, and for meat Leventis in ano Stalos. You can find reviews in the "crete restaurants" review page.

For breakfast, try "Iordanis", in the city of Chania, just across from the KTEL bus station. Ask the locals and they will direct you. You can have there the best "bougatsa" in Greece, made from various cheeses, served with or without sugar. An absolute must by any standards.

All places are frequented by local people. I wish you a great time.

[Nikki Rose]

Dear JGreen,

Sorry for my delay in responding to your question. I guess you have been to Crete and back already!

I work in Crete on eco-agritourism programs, so am always looking for the best places to visit and eat naturally. Crete is a big island, so I'd love to hear about your culinary journeys.

October is the raki making season, as others have mentioned. It is also called tsikoudia in Crete and tsiporo in northern of Greece. Raki is actually the Turkish word for the spirit, which is widely used here, considering Crete's history. There are variations of raki throughout the Mediterranean basin. It's called Arak in Iraq.

It is distilled from grape must and is called grappa in Italy. The raki, tsiporo or grappa available for international sale is twice distilled and usually stronger.

In Crete, village distilling equipment varies to a great degree...but it's a very basic system. Wood burning fire under a caldron that leads to the distilling tank with a spout at the base where the spirit trickles out very slowly. It is rarely flavored, although raki can be made with honey and other fruits...grape must is the standard.

Most villages have a factory for raki making and locals bring their grape must to the local distiller or best one in the region. So it is always a long wait and a social occasion. It can be very smooth and terrific or give you an instant headache. It is not made in the moonshine way, it is actually legal and used for medicinal purposes as well, insect repellant...you name it. People take their raki very seriously and it is not something to overdo. It is served in a small carafe with small shot glasses just to remind you of that fact. We don't always heed that warning, of course.

Ouzo, which is flavored with anise is a much sweeter, more refined spirit. We don't make it in the village distilleries here in Crete.

There is a lot of food that is traditionally enjoyed with raki. In fact, it seems most all food goes well with raki! Cold meze is the norm, not hot food. Pomegranates, pears, walnuts, cheese, olives. Drink enough of it and all becomes a watercolor blurr! Raki is a standard welcome drink and standard treat with the check when you are dining out.

The olive harvest does not normally begin until the heavy rains begin in November. But we had plenty of rain in October and many farmers began the harvest early. Perhaps you had a chance to enjoy that experience as well. There are quite a few sustainable organic olive growers in the prefecture of Hania...and we hope there will be more soon!

The grape harvest and wine making season is late August and September. All seasons revolve around the harvest and production of Crete's primary crops, so there's always activities, music festivals to enjoy during these times. I wrote an article about raki making in Crete way back when called "Fall in Fourni" the link is here: http://www.cookingincrete.com/Articles-Fourni.html

Enjoy your culinary journeys!

Nikki

[Busboy]

Dear JGreen,

Sorry for my delay in responding to your question.  I guess you have been to Crete and back already!

I work in Crete on eco-agritourism programs, so am always looking for the best places to visit and eat naturally.  Crete is a big island, so I'd love to hear about your culinary journeys.

Nikki

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Have you been to Milia? What did you think.

[C_Ruark]

Oh, Raki :shivers: that stuff is potent.

Tentoura (Hahalis Tentoura Kastro) on the other hand. A reddish cinnamon brady cordial that is the perfect appertif.

For anyone headed to Hania area, here's few recommendations.

1- "Chicken Georges"; the locals will know. Spit roasted chicken and fries. It's on one of the roads that leads to Calathos from Souda Bay. Down the street is another fine resto which is located next to Crete's best confectioner.

In the town:

2- Antigoni -

3- Monisteri's (english sp?); bit of a touristy spot, but the best saganaki around.

4- Souda Bay Fish House; fresh swordfish!

Be sure to check out everything on Halidon St. There's a lot of hidden places that have good food. For instance, there's a German restaurant (the owner's an expat anyway). I can never remember the name of the place, but I can find it with my eyes closed.