Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection

[Nicolai]

Apparently he is trying a new plasma oven fueled by a Naquadah reactor to produce perfect Tretonin lollipops!@$^(*$E)(*

Alternatively, you can get the same at your friendly grocery! The difference is the sleeve was designed by Armani!

[Corinna Dunne]

Here is an idea how to freshen up the Fat duck theme show in Bray with the ever-lasting menu - why does Heston not propose an alternative three or four course menu, composed out of the dishes  of his new  TV series?

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Hmmm... now that would bring a whole new meaning to the term "TV dinners"!

I haven't watched the BFG programme yet, but I have it recorded and am looking forward to it. And pweaver, after your comments on the book, I think I'm going to have to get it. I like the fact that it only has 8 recipes but lots of info.

[Scott]

I am suprised at the lack of movement in his menu - I almost wonder if perhaps he has not changed it for fear of loosing the coveted 3 stars -

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if true, perhaps a prime reason why he shouldn't have them?

if you cannot innovate. develop and take your cuisine forward - it doesn't say much now does it?

[ravelda]

I don't disagree Scott, but I have noticed a number of restaurants, particularly those most coveted, where the menu has been fairly static over time - it seems that they are placing consistancy above innovation - either that or they feel the dishes are "perfect" and so leave them where they are.

[Tim Hayward]

..am I the only one who thought last nights effort was a classic case of 'the emperors new clothes'....some of the techniques he presented as his own ideas have been around for donkeys years....and when he put the chocolate mixed with..what was it? groundnut or sunflower oil? through the paint gun I allmost wet myself....better than Borat!...the ONLY fat you add to chocolate to thin it down so it can be sprayed is cocoa-butter..with NO exceptions.

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That bugged me too.

After years of reading slavering articles about 'fine' chocolates... how I'm supposed to demand 95% cocoa, single estate beans and Christ knows what all else, how filthy, disgusting, shop bought chocolate bars are sometimes adulterated..... WITH VEGETABLE FAT (Bleeeeechhh!!!!) I was truly shocked.

Otherwise, it was an interesting structure to a show...

1. Here is the filthy, machine/factory made version of a great classic

2. Here's the fantastic handmade original version

3. Great chef uses techniques of 1. to create 2.

...totally fucks with my head on so many levels.

What did stand out though, was that even counting for the amount of filling going on (What other show begins with a six minute recap of what you haven't seen yet - short of footage perhaps?) it was refreshing to watch a programme where someone spent so much time actually doing something with food.

It made me realise that most cookery shows these days involve sleb interviews, sleb chef gurning at camera, sleb chef interviewing entirely wooden civilian about 'flavour' of product and shots of civilians tasting food and remarking how flavour a 'cuts through' flavour b. Anything but the guy cooking.

In 87 hours of Gordon 'Fucking' Ramsey last month, I'm trying to remember when I last saw him do anything but sponge the edge of a plate.

Edited November 9, 2006 by Tim Hayward (log)

[ed_pearson]

I thought it was interesting, and hope it encourages further cooking programs which advance beyond telling us how to boil eggs and make Thai Goddamn Green Curries. Of course nobody is going to make these dishes, but I bought the French Laundry Cookbook and have cooked precisely zero dishes from it - it's not the point.

HB's Perfection is as close to food porn as we get on TV. It's a shame HB is more of a pornographer than a porn star

[ermintrude]

Also, when the dry ice was at -200 he was slopping it about with bare hands and no eye protection. Back in the studio it was apparently at -80 but he was suddenly wearing all the kit.

If you spill liquid nitrogen on your hand the heat from your hand makes it evaporate quickly and as it's liquid it spreads over a wide surface area - a bit like spitting on the base of a hot iron. The evaporating nitrogen protects your skin, the result is you don't get burned if it splashes on you. In a reverse way if you have wet hands you can, quickly, dip your hand into molten iron - the water vapor stops your hand from burning.

With dry ice if this lands on your skin, it can freeze and stick because it's weight as a solid lump means the pressure of resulting evaporation can't make a barrier, as a result is a lump of dry ice lands on you this can result in nasty burns.

Heston was taking sensible precautions.

However dry ice can be obtained for home and can be stored for a while (so can liquid nitrogen but the storage tanks will cost you - so it's not practical for home use) I assume that's why Heston took the dry ice route.

[Tim Hayward]

Also, when the dry ice was at -200 he was slopping it about with bare hands and no eye protection. Back in the studio it was apparently at -80 but he was suddenly wearing all the kit.

If you spill liquid nitrogen on your hand the heat from your hand makes it evaporate quickly and as it's liquid it spreads over a wide surface area - a bit like spitting on the base of a hot iron. The evaporating nitrogen protects your skin, the result is you don't get burned if it splashes on you. In a reverse way if you have wet hands you can, quickly, dip your hand into molten iron - the water vapor stops your hand from burning

With dry ice if this lands on your skin, it can freeze and stick because it's weight as a solid lump means the pressure of resulting evaporation can't make a barrier, as a result is a lump of dry ice lands on you this can result in nasty burns.

Heston was taking sensible precautions.

However dry ice can be obtained for home and can be stored for a while (so can liquid nitrogen but the storage tanks will cost you - so it's not practical for home use) I assume that's why Heston took the dry ice route.

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Thanks for putting me straight on that.

Please don't get me wrong. I have no problem with anything HB is doing. My beef is with the programme makers. If your script makes a point of the safety procedures at -80, 30 seconds after not showing any at -200 it's sloppy not to make clear what's going on.

So far, I'm loving every nerdy bit of Heston, I just can't believe how the programme makers have hacked him about.

In the movie world, if a movie is unutterably crap, it goes 'straight to video' appearing on the shelves at Blockbuster without ever getting cinematic release.

The release of the HB DVD with a newspaper prior to the release of the show is the only time I've ever seen that happen with a TV programme.

What on earth could possess a company to release unbroadcast footage? (particularly a BBC product where they're usually great at wringing every last ounce of usage out of a property in whatever medium).

Coupled with the mysteriously last-minute scheduling of the show, I still reckon this indicates that the production company ended up with a huge volume of what the BBC considered unuseable material at the end of shooting and had to substantially recut.

This programme is the first to show cooking... you know, the thing where a bloke actually makes food on screen... for ages. It appeals to me as a food lover and I enjoy watching it.

But whichever producer came up with the notion that it would only sell to the masses if Heston dealt with everyday recipes and adapted them for home use, was a knob-end of heroic stature.

The programme ties itself in knots trying to be something it isn't.

Between the DVD and some of the best parts of the programme is hidden a terrific series in which Heston Blumenthal is allowed to do what he does best. I lament the fact the BBC didn't feel able to make that series. I lament the fact that they had to cut it to appeal to morons. It's good to see that eGers are digging out the best nuggets but it's a crying shame we have to.

Edited November 10, 2006 by Tim Hayward (log)

[camp_dick]

... a knob-end of heroic stature.

One of those oxymoronic wankers?

I'm intrigued by Heston's face furniture: those slightly aerodynamic goggles that simultaneously suggest extreme sports and potentially explosive lab work.

[grahamR]

I assume the mad scientist glasses were a gift form the BBC in lieu of giving him a proper scoliotic assistant. They really are special.

[Bonnie Anderson]

So far, I'm loving every nerdy bit of Heston, I just can't believe how the programme makers have hacked him about.

I lament the fact the BBC didn't feel able to make that series. I lament the fact that they had to cut it to appeal to morons. It's good to see that eGers are digging out the best nuggets but it's a crying shame we have to.

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I don't see why they couldn't bit the bullet and make it an hour long show. There's nothing else much on on Tuesday nights anyway. The show would have been more flowing and much nicer to watch.

I guess they figured that the general public could only stomach half an hour of 'science' (if that's what they call it) at a time and an hour would have been too much for our poor brains to handle.

Overall I love the show but wish there was more of it...

[naebody]

But whichever producer came up with the notion that it would only sell to the masses if Heston dealt with everyday recipes and adapted them for home use, was a knob-end of heroic stature.

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Overheard in a Soho bar, April 2006:

Idiot one: "That snail porridge man is in the papers a lot. We should give him a series. A cooking show fronted by a boffin -- bound to be a winner."

Idiot two: "Gordon Ramsay crossed with Adam Hart Davis? Like it. But doesn't he do all fiddly little plates of odd things? Viewers don't like all that stuff. They think it's pretentious. We don't want it to go all early-90s Masterchef."

Idiot one: "God help. So can we Jamie him?"

Idiot two: "As in, make out he's doing what he cooks at home? Could do, but then we lose the whole science angle. Plus, he's not exactly in the Ainsley league when it comes to charisma. And there's always a risk his wife's not photogenic. In fact, I'm not even sure he's married."

Idiot one: "A loner, eh? Geeky science virgin. Spends all his time in his shed making inventions. We should use that ..."

Idiot two: "Perhaps we should play up the boffin stuff, but give him stuff to cook that the audience at home actually eats. Sausages, eel pie, crisps and Mars bars, that kind of thing."

Idiot one: "But with ... the appliance of science."

Idiot two: "Yeah -- so it's like ... the perfect eel pie."

Idiot one: "Brilliant. But how do we make sure the audience knows he's a chef and a scientist, not just some wierdo. Could we put him in a lab coat?"

Idiot two: "Nah, the audience always needs to see those white chef outfits to know it's a proper chef. But I guess we could make his specs look like safety goggles."

Idiot one: "Genius. Write that down and we're done for the day. Now, pass me my wallet, I'm off to the toilet for a celebration ..."

Edited November 10, 2006 by naebody (log)

[grahamR]

[Catriona]

that's one of the best things I've read all week!

[Tim Hayward]

Overheard in a Soho bar, April 2006:

....

"Genius. Write that down and we're done for the day. Now, pass me my wallet, I'm off to the toilet for a celebration ..."

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Dammit, Man. I knew we'd met somewhere before....

[fisherman]

I haven't even watched the second show, I couldn't bear to. One thing that winds me up is the awful sit down interview with HB which just seems to be used in lieu of any interesting sequences of him actually doing anything. A cookery/science show where a large part of the show is taken up with a moodily lit sit down interview? A new direction maybe, but one I hope no other producers take.

[Tim Hayward]

I haven't even watched the second show, I couldn't bear to. One thing that winds me up is the awful sit down interview with HB which just seems to be used in lieu of any interesting sequences of him actually doing anything. A cookery/science show where a large part of the show is taken up with a moodily lit sit down interview? A new direction maybe, but one I hope no other producers take.

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I reckon that segment's shot bluescreen too. And, judging by his ludicrous tan, at an entirely different time to the rest of the programme.

[kutsu]

Fuck me, I don't especially care about the program, but arguing about blue screen or tan colours is pretty fucking pernickity.

[kutsu]

Well, looks like I'm the first one of us to try and make something from the book/show.

I'm making the perfect treacle tart. It's so far taken me 48 hours (I don' remember this being covered in th show, but in the book, he realises that the older the golden syrup used, the better the flavour. Therefore, he advocates buying the syrup and "aging" it in a very low over for 24-48 hours. Having tested before and after, it is definitley a more complex flavour.

The tart has just come out of the oven, looks pretty fantastic, but I'm not attempting the ice-cream, I just bought some super-premium vanilla ice-cream - fuck using dry ice.

Oh well, an hour till lunch (mm daube of beef) and I will report back to tell you if it was worth the effort. Or my waistline.

[Zoticus]

I'm making the perfect treacle tart.

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What shape is it? Loved the rectangular Black Forest Gateaux, round cakes are crap. Genius!

[kutsu]

I'm making the perfect treacle tart.

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What shape is it? Loved the rectangular Black Forest Gateaux, round cakes are crap. Genius!

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It's uh.. round! sorry.

Well, in fairness, it was absolutely stonking, very rich, but very very very good. Easily the best I've ever had, let alon made (I suck at baking).

4 of us (two adults and two kids) have eaten about half of the cake we mad, and I actually only made a half recipe, so I think its under-estimating that the recipe itself say it feeds 8-10. More like 12-14, I'd guess.

Christ, I need to sleep this off I think. Then, time for more. Cant wait to try another recipe, but I will need to go to the gym I think, its very very calorific.

[Scott]

I don't disagree Scott, but I have noticed a number of restaurants, particularly those most coveted, where the menu has been fairly static over time - it seems that they are placing consistancy above innovation - either that or they feel the dishes are "perfect" and so leave them where they are.

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very true, and you make a good point. what separates this situation for me, is that it is of it's very nature an 'innovative' restaurant - which negates the consistency election.

If Veyrat & Adria can change their menu's so can this guy, or give up the pretense of walking with the kings.

[Nicolai]

If Veyrat & Adria can change their menu's so can this guy, or give up the pretense of walking with the kings. 

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Well said.

[Tim Hayward]

If Veyrat & Adria can change their menu's so can this guy, or give up the pretense of walking with the kings. 

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It's a fair point but there's very little commercial pressure on him to change.

'Destination' restaurants are a funny phenomenon in the UK.

Sure, most foodies will make the trip at least once but, outside of a big city he has the problem that he's not going to attract the expense account crowd.

For punters it's great news that they're in no danger of being seated next to a six top of dead-eyed corporate wampyrs, chucking breadrolls and nipping off to the loo for a livener. To the British restaurateur it means a different business model.

I would argue that, though his cooking may be innovative and his personal appeal wide, a restaurant somewhere as God forsaken as Bray has to run on a theme park model - people will come from all over, once - and on that basis, he needs the offering to stay consistent until the last remaining quid has been extracted from the last culinary tourist.

He really can't afford to mess with that.

Imagine if, by the time the West Daventry Food and Wine Society finally got their booking, his famous 'whelk profiterol with emulsion paint' had been removed from the menu. There would be ructions.

And if the foodie tourists don't pack him out every night, there's no one else to fill the seats.

I remember Jammy Olive complaining that 15 was full of idiots from out of town who wanted him to sign their books, do a cheeky little cockney dance, flirt with their old gran and then burn them a steak.

I reckon Heston is doomed to a more foodily literate version of the same.

Edited November 13, 2006 by Tim Hayward (log)

[Scott]

Tim,

have you forgotten the other place in Bray, which does just nicely without food tourists and has quite a following of regulars?

after all berkshire is not exactly a destitute locale.