Cooking to Honor Edna Lewis

[annecros]

A beautiful meal, annecros; my mouth is watering and it is a very nice tribute.

I need an occasion with more people to make this big cake, but I found a link to "Esther's Orange Marmalade Cake" on line that has been on my serious to-bake list.  It's from Lewis' and Scott's joint cookbook

Esther's Orange Marmalade Cake  (may need free subscription to Atlanta Journal Constitution)

It's a 3 layer buttermilk cake flavored with orange zest and peel.  The cake layers are moistened with an orange syrup, filled with orange marmalade and covered with a whipped cream/sour cream frosting.

←

I've been seriously looking at that cake myself. We have access to some very nice marmalade's here in South Florida, and I think there may still be some Honeybells around.

Like you, I need a much larger crowd than just me and hubby to justify baking it. Maybe I will make it my stepdaughter's birthday cake?

[Gifted Gourmet]

The meal you made is exquisite, Anne! And the photo is exactly what we were anticipating: vivid and a true gift of the American South! Bravo!

Your impressions point out how simple, yet complex flavorwise, southern cooking can be ... which was what Edna Lewis wanted people to experience in her cookbooks.

[Abra]

If you've never had the Fresh Apple Cake with Caramel Glaze, do yourself a huge favor and make it. I've done it several times, for clients and friends, and everyone loves it. It's just what apple cake should be.

I'll be looking for something to make this week to add to the tribute.

[annecros]

Leftover pork roast from the night before, with some lovely southern vegetables.

Saute of tomatoes and okra with a bacon garnish

Sliced cucumbers dressed with vinegar and sugar

Leftover bay studded pork roast, sliced cold right out of the fridge

Cornbread vegetable bake

It seems to defy reason, but I enjoyed this meal better than I enjoyed the meal I had the night before!

I have always sort of thought of meat as a side, and the vegetables as the main. I don't think I will ever get away from that frame of mind.

The saute was lovely, however I think the next time I do it I will limit it to the onions and okra, and just slice the tomatoes straight up with a little salt. The tomatoes aren't cooked, just warmed through, but if I want hot tomatoes I generally prefer tomato sauce.

The sliced cucumbers I think I have probably eaten a million times. If I am correct in that estimate, they were probably prepared for me 500,000 times and prepared by myself the other 500,000 times. Nothing wrong with those cucumbers.

I robbed the baggie all day yesterday straight out of the fridge for the leftover pork. Nothing wrong with that either.

This cornbread vegetable bake was wonderful. Sort of like cornbread dressing, reminded me of hushpuppies as well. This was my favorite. Hubby suggested cracklings, or at least rendered bacon next time, but he is the biggest fat consumer in the house, and his health and bloodwork give me no excuse to not feed him in the manner in which he prefers. I baked it in the cast iron grill pan, something I stole from an egulleter somewhere, I unfortunately cannot remember who. Thanks whoever you are. It is pretty, and very effectively doubles the crusty surface of the cornbread. Son came by after work and polished off half the cornbread.

I love the way that Edna Lewis addressed the myth of "overcooked" southern vegetables in the "Persuit of Flavor." I am sorry, but if you got overcooked vegetables in the south, you just happened to run across a bad southern cook. Vegetables should be properly cooked, in the words of Miz Lewis. Some vegetables should be served raw, with a little seasoning with salt and pepper. Others need to be cooked to bring out the most natural flavor that lives within that particular vegetable.

I owe the desire to bring out the very best flavor from anything I cook to Edna Lewis.

ETA: All recipes can be found in "The Gift of Southern Cooking"

Edited February 20, 2006 by annecros (log)

[moosnsqrl]

Well, I have some good news and some bad news.

First, the good: Our Edna Lewis tribute was (IMHO) delicious, owing to the recipes and my almost-unprecedented adherence to them. I can't remember the last time I so doggedly followed recipes and instructions but, being a yankee AND someone who rarely cooks 'Merican food, I decided for once to leave it to the experts. This was, then, her food channeled through my inexpert hands. Fortunately, she really knew what she was doing so it didn't matter much that I did not.

The braised beef short ribs were pretty incredible. I've only recently returned to omnivorism after more than 12 years, but the s.o. liked 'em, too. They were quite tender and the flavor and aroma were out of this world. If only someone would market air freshener that smelled like that instead of faux floral and pine scents!

The whipped rutabagas were good, if a little watery. I generally roast them with other root vegetables and this called for boiling. Knowing how the residual moisture, sugar etc varies in root vegetables, it's hard to say but I think I would try parboiling and finishing in a dry roast, then whipping. I really like the blend of rutabaga, butter and nutmeg, though.

Creamed scallions may be one of my new favorite foods. Simple but delicious. I'll have to try them with evaporated skim milk if they're going to become a staple, though. Not sure I need to introduce heavy cream into my daily routine.

I know you southerners will roll your eyes (and I deserve it), but I didn't realize how far my version of cole slaw had drifted. I followed the recipe almost to the letter (I just couldn't put dijon in it - it's a family thing, I guess) and it transported me back to childhood. Sometimes less is more. The tried and true sweet/sour combo of refined sugar and white vinegar was all but forgotten by me. I was surprised by all of the memories it evoked.

We're not dessert eaters but I couldn't let Miss Lewis down (I know, how lame, blaming indulgence on the dearly departed, shame on me). I selected the simple and not-too-sweet option of warm apple crisp. I skipped the recommended custard sauce and drizzled a soupcon of half-and-half over tiny ramekins of it, straight from the oven. It's a good thing we aren't really predisposed toward eating desserts given our legendary lack of restraint and will power. This was tasty but we'll probably never get through the entire half-batch I made.

The bad news: we're not yet digital in the photo department and I discovered at serving time that the last rolls of film had been frittered-away documenting the s.o.'s golf trip to Scottsdale last week . So instead of beautiful photos of food, I have a bunch of pictures of middle-aged me in garish attire (and various states of inebriation) standing in front of saguaros - PM me if you would like to see them.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Judy, what a great, detailed "report" on the meal you made .. seems that you have analyzed all aspects of both the preparation as well as the end results.

I, too, will be doing the scallions in cream and it sounds like the result is well worth the even minimal effort that this recipe entails. No one can afford using heavy cream so liberally but your substitution sounds equally perfect to complete the dish.

Thanks again for offering us a glimpse into Edna Lewis' creations ...

[moosnsqrl]

Judy, what a great, detailed "report" on the meal you made .. seems that you have analyzed all aspects of both the preparation as well as the end results.

←

OK, so it was a little verbose. But you know what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

[Probono]

Judy, what a great, detailed "report" on the meal you made .. seems that you have analyzed all aspects of both the preparation as well as the end results.

←

OK, so it was a little verbose. But you know what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

←

As an old guy who lived and loved in NYC for many years, I had the pleasure of eating Edna's food at the old Cafe Nicholson under the bridge. I will tell you I can still see the spoon breaking the chocolate souffle and putting in the cream..

Oh my, she is a fabulous cook..with great style in her simplicity.

A joy in my life..

Bob McConnell

[artisan02]

I am going to a potluck with a group of foodies tomorrow, and I changed my offerings based on the news of her death.  I am making  several things from her last book, as well as some from my own southern heritage. 

I am thinking of making Country Captain, and Chess Pie.  The Asparagus and Scallion Pie

←

Please share how they turned out and what your thoughts were ... and, yes, exposing Californians to true southern cuisine is always a good idea!

←

Well, I didn't end up making the Country Captain, as my time and energy were at a premium. I did end up making the Thyme-Smothered Chicken, which was a big hit, and wonderfully tender and flavorful.

And the Chess Pie I made, got wonderful reviews, especially from a veteran pie maker.

I didn't end up making any other of her recipes, but did cook some of my family recipes, which come down from some southern grandparents. Those too, were a big hit.

Edited to add: I totally forgot that I made her Pimento Cheese as well. I walked into the party with it, and when I put it down on the table and told people what it was, I got these delighted responses: "Oooh!!! Pimento Cheese!!!". I never saw people moving so fast to get to it!

I did manage to take a picture of the Chess Pie yesterday, but somehow didn't get a picture of everything else. Too much going on. If I can figure out how to upload it here, I will post it.

I still have scallions and asparagus here. I might try something with those tonight. And I still have some chicken, so I think I am going to fix the Country Captain or repeat the Thyme Smothered Chicken, all for myself.

Christine

Edited February 20, 2006 by artisan02 (log)

[Gifted Gourmet]

Shopping trip for the ingredients for the dishes I will be making today from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock's cookbook ... her apple cake with caramel and the scallions in cream recipe ... sounds like a balanced dinner to me!

Photos as soon as I finish cooking ...

[Lan4Dawg]

since Fuss decided to pass her upper respiratory infection along to me I was not able to do any thing this past w/e. Hopefully things will be back to normal enough to experiment this Sunday.

I was considering the pork roast or the short ribs unless some thing else caught my eye or there was a request to try some thing else since those two have already been prepared. Any suggestions?

[suzilightning]

sunday dinner was an homage to Edna Lewis from The Gift of Southern Cooking. i had already decided to do chicken and had it thawing in the icebox.

Chicken Baked with delicate herbs and bread crumbs - pronounced by johnnybird to be a real keeper. it was nicely crunchy and reminded me of my mom's oven baked chicken

Lemon-glazed sweet potatoes - another keeper. the lemon syrup was a great complement to the sweet potatoes

Garlic Green Beans

Egg Custard Pie

simple good southern food

[Gifted Gourmet]

At the moment, Edna Lewis' apple cake is in the oven and I will be making the caramel glaze shortly to put on top ... bet our dessert tonight will be a good one ... too bad that's our entire meal ...

[ludja]

At the moment, Edna Lewis' apple cake is in the oven and I will be making the caramel glaze shortly to put on top ... bet our dessert tonight will be a good one ... too bad that's our entire meal ... 

←

If you're not too shy to post a photo, it would be interesting to see what this looks like... I'm intrigued by Abra's hearty endorsement above.

[Gifted Gourmet]

If you're not too shy to post a photo, it would be interesting to see what this looks like...  I'm intrigued by Abra's hearty endorsement above.

←

Moi? Too shy? Not possible! I have to make the glaze and then will upload my apple cake photos shortly ... before my husband takes out his fork and favorite dessert plate and digs in with no regard for the integrity of the finished cake! Otherwise? Crumby pictures of an empty baking dish!

[Gifted Gourmet]

the cake ready to be baked ...

the cake, now baked, and the caramel topping is dripping into the holes ...

Note here: the caramel is less thick than in the original photograph in Leite's Culinaria ... but I did take a tiny taste and am pleased indeed! Granny Smiths all the way!

[hwilson41]

Bay Leaf Studded Pork. Actually, the whole plate is from "The Gift of Southern Cooking"

Watercress in Pork Stock

Butterbeans in Pork Stock

Plain Rice

Bay Leaf Studded Pork with Mushroom Sauce

....

We ate good. A very satisfying meal.

←

No doubt you did . That's as lovely looking a pork roast as I've seen in many moons. Off to buy the cookbook and a nice pork roast. Thanks for sharing and for the inspiration.

Edited February 23, 2006 by hwilson41 (log)

[annecros]

Thank Edna! It was really a wonderful roast, and it seems to "bloom" as it bakes. The aroma is amazing when it goes into the oven, but occaisionally we would get the lovely whiff in the air as the flavors developed, and each whiff was richer and more complex than the last. This is definitely a keeper.

Gifted Gourmet, that apple cake looks great, and I am a big Granny Smith fan. We even eat them out of hand around here for snacks. Going to have to try that cake soon.

I did the roast chicken from "In Persuit of Flavor" last night, only I added carrots, onions, celery and potatoes to the bottom of the roaster. It was chickeny perfection! No pictures, hubby came in hungry as a bear.

[debbiemoose]

Well, I fear I did not do Miss Lewis justice in my efforts with her Famous Coconut Lane Cake, but it was not for lack of effort - perhaps lack of ability, since I don't bake very often. But as a friend who tasted it said, anything with 1/2 cup of bourbon in the frosting can't be all bad!

Despite containing 2 sticks of butter, the 3 layers were amazingly light and fluffy from the 8 beaten egg whites. My layers were lopsided, but that happens every time...that's why frosting was invented.

The frosting reminded me more of what goes on a german chocolate cake in texture - very chunky with chopped pecans, chopped raisins and the coconut. I chopped the raisins (golden) and pecans in the food processor. I could not find unsweetened coconut, so used the frozen sweetened (thawed; I'm not THAT dumb). I tasted it, and it wasn't sweet, so I didn't change the 1 1 /2 cups sugar in the frosting. The recipe said to cook 12 large egg yolks, sugar and 1 1/2 sticks melted butter until it coated the back of a spoon. This may have been my problem. I thought it was coating, maybe it wasn't. Like I said, baking involves too much direction-following for my taste so I don't do it much. But I do love a coconut cake and wanted to try this. After adding the raisins, pecans and coconut, I let it cook a little longer than the 1 minute specified just in case the coconut was still cool.

The result, even after cooling to room temp, was not real thick. There was no way it would stick to the sides of the cake (as in the photo at the Oprah web site where I got the recipe). So I just heavily coated between the layers and the top. Interestingly, even after the remainder was in the refrigerator overnight, it was still runny. User error, obviously, as they say.

The result was a decadently rich flavor, if not the most attractive cake, with a big whack of bourbon. A neighbor came over to watch the Oscars and snarfed it up; the remainder I sent to work with my husband yesterday and he said there was about 1 little piece left at the end of the day (and there are only 10 people in his office, including a diabetic who shouldn't have been within a mile of this thing).

The result: I am, once again, in awe of the skill and art of bakers, who must have a completely different mind than mine. And in awe of someone like Miss Lewis, who could cook everything well.

I took photos but I can't seem to figure out how to get them out of iPhoto into this...will keep trying.

[ludja]

The NYTimes reported today on a recent tribute dinner for Edna Lewis sponsored by Scott Peacock and the Atlanta History center.click

She was an icon of Southern cooking, but she was also a culinary presence during the years she spent in New York. According to her accounts of cooking at Café Nicholson on the Upper East Side in the late 1940's and early 50's, her food was so good that Truman Capote would show up at the kitchen door in the morning in purple velour pants and penny loafers, demanding biscuits.

…

Miss Lewis's family in Virginia held a funeral in the days after she died, but Mr. Peacock waited until the spring to say his farewell.

…

Then, from behind the plantation house, someone rang a bell. The vanilla ice cream had been churned and was ready for the blackberry cobbler. The cobbler was the first dish Mr. Peacock and Miss Lewis ever cooked together, and on a hot Georgia spring day, with a scoop of that ice cream, it evoked the easy grace of their friendship. The ice cream didn't taste too bad next to a slice of Miss Lewis's coconut layer cake, either.

"I just wanted people to have a quintessential Southern experience," Mr. Peacock said. "It's what Miss Lewis would have wanted, too."

HERE is the menu for the memorial dinner for Edna Lewis on Sunday at the Tullie Smith Farm, at the Atlanta History Center.

Edna Lewis Tribute Dinner

Cheese Straws

Benne Seed Wafers With Shrimp Paste

Pimento Cheese and Celery

Buttermilk Biscuits Stuffed With Smithfield Ham, Sweet Butter

Strawberry Preserves

Southern Pan-Fried Chicken

Deviled Eggs

Asparagus Dressed With Cucumber and Spring Herbs

Heirloom Tomato and Field Pea Salad With Garlic Mayonnaise

Sunday Night Cake

Miss Lewis's Coconut Layer Cake

Cat's Tongue Cookies

Fresh Strawberries

Blackberry Cobbler With Fresh Churned Vanilla Ice Cream

Old-Fashioned Tea Cakes

So many of her recipes are based on great summer ingredients; time to start cooking...

[Gifted Gourmet]

So many of her recipes are based on great summer ingredients; time to start cooking... 

←

I saw that too, Ludja! Thanks for posting the menu and notice!

Atlanta Journal-Constitution has an article by John Kessler: Friends, dishes honor Edna Lewis Published on: 05/25/06

Edna Lewis died the day before Valentine's Day and two months shy of her 90th birthday. But it wasn't until last weekend that her longtime caretaker and devotee, Scott Peacock, invited friends and admirers to celebrate her life at the Atlanta History Center... the room filled with well- known Atlantans — former Atlanta Mayor Maynard Jackson's widow, Valerie Jackson; actress Jane Fonda; Baccanalia chef Anne Quatrano... Peacock recalls her sense of humor and fondness for Jack Daniel's. He chokes up when he says that Lewis helped him know himself, but adds that she wouldn't want him getting emotional.

[Probono]

Lord you all have had a good time with Edna's food. I wish I could have enjoyed the dinner with you.

I think I stuffed myself with her wonderful food (and a lot of wine, as well..it was included!!) at Cafe Nicholson twice a week back in the day (as my daughter's call 'my time.'

Now it's all about big bucks in NYC in 'the scene'...

When Edna was cooking, it was .. do you want chicken or beef...and let the lady do her work...with some Spanish wine and her wonderful food, we were all happy and went often.

And, then the waiter brought the little chocolate souffle, broke a hole in the top, filled it with unsweetened whipped cream, and left us to our pleasure.

Then a walk home, or perhaps, a ride home in the special Rolls..

Who remembers that?

Ah, back in the day...and my daughter's think I don't have a clue!!

[ludja]

Lord you all have had a good time with Edna's food.  I wish I could have enjoyed the dinner with you.

I think I stuffed myself with her wonderful food (and a lot of wine, as well..it was included!!) at Cafe Nicholson twice a week back in the day (as my daughter's call 'my time.'

Now it's all about big bucks in NYC in 'the scene'...

When Edna was cooking, it was .. do you want chicken or beef...and let the lady do her work...with some Spanish wine and her wonderful food, we were all happy and went often.

And, then the waiter brought the little chocolate souffle, broke a hole in the top, filled it with unsweetened whipped cream, and left us to our pleasure.

Then a walk home, or perhaps, a ride home in the special Rolls..

Who remembers that?

Ah, back in the day...and my daughter's think I don't have a clue!!

←

Wonderful reminiscences, Probono.

Did you ever run into Truman Capote or any other luminaries at her restaurant? From a few different stories I've read, it seems like quite a few well-known people frequented the restaurant.

[ludja]

I also posted these photos in the Dinner thread but wanted to include my menus here which are primarily from “The Gift of Southern Cooking". I really love this book and am grateful that Scott Peacock and Ms. Lewis were able to create this together.

Here’s a Southern vegetable plate with Buttermilk Cornbread with Okra and Sweet Corn, Scalloped Tomatoes, fresh refridgerator Pickles with garlic, dill and coriander and Collard Greens cooked in Pork stock. The greens were sprinkled with some chile pepper vinegar also before serving.

Dessert was a fresh Coconut Pie from Bill Neal's "Biscuits, Spoonbread and Sweet Potato Pie". As an aside, everthing I've made from this book is a winner including this pie which is subtley scented with orange flower water and rum.

I made another Southern vegetable plate a few weeks ago also using "The Gift of Southern Cooking". The plate this time was Okra Pancakes (so-named, but more like fritters), Creamed Scallions, Scalloped Tomatoes and fresh Black Eyed Peas cooked in Pork stock.

The scalloped tomato dish is a real revelation. It is one of those dishes in which the ingredients are completely transformed to a new flavor. The ingredients are just fresh ripe tomatoes that are skinned and seeded and chopped, minced onions, salt, pepper, a tiny bit of sugar and cubed bread sauteed in butter. A bit more butter is poured over the mixture of tomatoes and croutons before baking. The dish has such a interesting flavor; it almost tastes like there is some parmesean cheese or other flavoring in there. The first time I used white bread cubes; the second time I had light rye bread at home and used that. Both very good!

I like both the okra dishes as well. The okra pancakes have a much nice texture than the traditional fried okra I’ve had in NC restaurants. Of course, they vary widely in quality but I like the more substantial cornmeal batter around them in this recipe. I’ve made cornbread with fresh corn in it before but I like the addition of okra as well; nice heft and flavor.

I’ll be making the creamed scallions often as well; a delicious and easy side dish that would also go well with roasted meats.

I looked back to see if I had 're-made' anything that had been reported on before. Here are some previous comments on the cornbread vegetable bake and the creamed scallions.

...

This cornbread vegetable bake was wonderful. Sort of like cornbread dressing, reminded me of hushpuppies as well. This was my favorite. Hubby suggested cracklings, or at least rendered bacon next time, but he is the biggest fat consumer in the house, and his health and bloodwork give me no excuse to not feed him in the manner in which he prefers. I baked it in the cast iron grill pan, something I stole from an egulleter somewhere, I unfortunately cannot remember who. Thanks whoever you are. It is pretty, and very effectively doubles the crusty surface of the cornbread. Son came by after work and polished off half the cornbread.

...

←

...

Creamed scallions may be one of my new favorite foods.  Simple but delicious.  I'll have to try them with evaporated skim milk if they're going to become a staple, though.  Not sure I need to introduce heavy cream into my daily routine.

...

←

[Pontormo]

Ludja, I want to thank you especially for inspiring this Yankee to check out the book. I've heard and read about Edna Lewis, even her close friendship with the book's narrator, but never bothered to investigate further. Racheld's response to Ling's question provided a second nudge.

I only wish you and other scalloped tomatoes/vegetable plate makers in the Dinner thread advised us to high y'all hither and yon. I would have visited this thread earlier.

Judy, I have to say your description of a meal early in this thread is truly eloquent--lovely!

The vegetable-based dishes look fantastic! It makes sense that there are so many dishes perfect for the muggy weather and summer produce of Washington, D.C. And man, does that Lane Cake look amazing!!!

* * *

REGARDING PREFERRED INGREDIENTS A NORTHERNER WOULD NORMALLY SHUN

In high school I worked at McDonald's when they used lard for french fries. My stepfather stopped buying the fat when his doctor put him on a radically altered diet in which all fried foods were forbidden. Therefore, I am ambivalent: a bit hesitant about using lard and rarely deep fry anything, but willing to make biscuits with lard at least once. I know about the lard thread in another forum and will consult it.

The two things that make me more reluctant are the following:

1) White cornmeal

2) White Lily flour & bleached Gold Medal All-Purpose flour

Please redirect me if there is a fine discussion of these Southern preferences in the Baking forum. I can also conduct a search using Google on my own. However, if anyone here has an opinion based on personal experience, I'd like to know more, especially in the form of comparative analysis.

It was my impression that white cornmeal is more refined than yellow cornmeal, and that it not as nutritious. For example, it lacks the Vitamin A the latter provides. Ditto regarding the preferred soft flours made from wheat.

I have new bags of King Arthur All-Purpose and Bread flours and like the results I get from each. In fact, I thought the larger amount of protein in bread flour promoted rising. I get the impression that Scott Peacock believes KA does not produce baked goods as light as the more refined flours do, though KA is fine for a few items.

I also really like the gritty texture and taste of newly ground yellow cornmeal and am a miser when it comes to mail-ordering food. What would the advantage be in switching to white cornmeal?