bacon reports

[mrbigjas]

by some coincidence i have had the opportunity recently to have several different bacons by several local purveyors--both those who make it, and those who sell it--so i figured i'd start a thread on who's making what, and how we found it. i don't suspect this thread will be very long, but hey, i'll babble for a while.

so, let's start with the non-local stuff:

1. dibruno's is carrying double-smoked speck. but what i bought was made from pork belly, not the much leaner thigh version they have on their website. actually at the time i was looking for french-style bacon, the unsmoked cured stuff you make lardons from. but since they didn't have that (i shoulda used pancetta, but whatever), i decided what the hell, and got this. it's about $10 a pound. you can get it sliced thick. it's great stuff. double smoked, but not unpleasantly smoky, with a really noticeable pork flavor. not as sweet as a lot of american bacon. perfect for an inauthentic salade lyonnaise--i know smoked bacon isn't traditional in that salad, but it sure doesn't hurt it in my mind. dibruno's also carries neuske's applewood bacon and pepper bacon and whatnot, but it's ungodly expensive, approaching $16 or so a pound, and i just can't bring myself to pay for it, esp. considering the prices of the following, so if one of you gets some and would like to report, feel free. otherwise i'm sure i'll end up one night saying screw it and dropping $8 or so for half a pound of nueske's in some kind of emergency bacon situation. you know how they can crop up.

ok so anyway, locals next:

2. haltemann's. this is my go-to bacon, that i always have in the freezer. i usually buy the bacon ends rather than the regular strips. this has a couple of advantages: first, you often get big chunks of solid meat, and big chunks of fat. the former are good for soups and greens and whatnot; the latter for keeping a good amount of bacon fat around. second, they're cheaper, at about $2.19 a pound (compared to about $4 for regular). the disadvantage is that you don't get nice strips (edited to say: actually you DO usually get SOME strips when you buy the ends. just not the real uniform ones). haltemann's bacon is pretty salty, and hickory smoked, so it's got a relatively assertive smoked flavor. however, (like all of these, and unlike supermarket bacon), it's not that sweet, and is not full of briney liquid that leaks out when you cook it. i mean, i guess that's a given when you're not buying oscar meyer, but it's worth noting, i think.

3. martin's. we bought this last week because i was walking by, and because we were having end-of-season BLTs, which of course means with fried green tomatoes instead of fresh ones. martin's is hickory smoked also, runs $3.89 a pound, i think, and is cut relatively thick, between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. they also have slab bacon if you want it whole or cut some other way. it's very similar to haltemann's, above.

4. harry och's. OK this one i had never seen before, but i was walking by that afternoon and saw it up there by the stuffed flank steak and whatnot: our own applewood smoked bacon. also about $4 a pound. fruitwoods in general provide a much lighter, smoother smoke flavor than either hickory or oak, and this one is no exception. it's pre-sliced, and i didn't see it in slabs, but the mellowness of the flavor made me think you wouldn't want to use this in any other way than just cooked slices. it allows the flavor of the pork and the cure to come through more than the asskicking hickory does.

so anyway, we cooked up martin's and och's for our BLT sandwiches that night, and while we all agreed that the och's was a great bacon, it didn't stand up to the fried green tomato BLTs as well as the martin's did. i like it more on its own though; it's a more nuanced flavor is more interesting.

anyway, the difference is really remarkable when you have them side by side--while in general, really, they're all bacon and whatnot, it's interesting noticing the differences when you have them one after another.

as an aside, i've had stoltzfus (dutch country meats) bacon and didn't like it as much as haltemann's, but i can't remember why, because i haven't had it that recently. i do know that my 'everyday' bacon choice between haltemann's and stoltzfus was conscious, in the same way that i prefer the ham from stoltzfus over the ham from haltemann's.

OK that's all i got for now. hope y'all find it of interest.

Edited October 25, 2005 by mrbigjas (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Mild mannered database manager by day. Bacon scholar and intrepid researcher by night.

You 'da man.

[rlibkind]

Haltemann's (that's L. Haltemann, not A.A., though the two vendors are practically across from each other at the RTM) is also my go-to bacon. I buy both the strips and the ends, depending on the intended purpose. Since I'll be making skillet cornbread this week, I have ends to render some nice fat. As mrbigjas notes, it is intensely smokey. (As are Haltemann's smoked short ribs, which I add for flavoring when I make a pot of chili.)

Thanks for the info on Harry Ochs' bacon - I wasn't aware they did their own! Sounds like a nice variation for a breakfast side.

Has anyone tried the bacon from Fair Food Farmstand? Their pork from Countrytime is outstanding. According to its weekly e-mail newsletter, Fair Food offers nitrite-free from Countrytime (though I'm not a big fan of nitrite free bacon; it tends to be much too salty, and using beet powder to add redness doesn't work for me) and double-smoked from Green Meadow.

[shacke]

Mild mannered database manager by day.  Bacon scholar and intrepid researcher  by night.

You 'da man.

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This is what my egullet donations go to? Pork belly projects?

mmmm. baaacon (in Homer voice)

Evan

[etalanian]

Great topic! I don't get to the RTM often enough, and this makes me want to make sure I get there later this week.

I was at a celebration brunch a short while back, and the hosts served some hearty, medium-thick sliced bacon that they had grilled outdoors. It was quite good. They bought it at the Chestnut Hill Farmer's Market. I will try to go there on Thursday and see where it comes from.

Thanks for starting this thread!

Eileen

[mrbigjas]

Thanks for the info on Harry Ochs' bacon - I wasn't aware they did their own! Sounds like a nice variation for a breakfast side.

i wasn't either--i really did just happen to see it as i was walking by.

Has anyone tried the bacon from Fair Food Farmstand? Their pork from Countrytime is outstanding. According to its weekly e-mail newsletter, Fair Food offers nitrite-free from Countrytime (though I'm not a big fan of nitrite free bacon; it tends to be much too salty, and using beet powder to add redness doesn't work for me) and double-smoked from Green Meadow.

i've had the double-smoked bacon from them, but not recently. i remember enjoying it, but really that's not saying much, since i can't remember the last time i had bacon that i didn't enjoy. like the neuske's, though, it gets negative points in my book for being noticeably more expensive--when similar products are right there for significantly less money, i tend to go with them.

[cinghiale]

Gotta throw in a vote for Sonny d'Angelo's bacon. It's got a nice smokey flavor to it. I always seem to be picking it up when looking for other stuff -- like: gimme two rabbits .. oh and some bacon. Or: 2 lbs of bratwurst please ... and some bacon. Or my fav combination: hunk of lardo please ... and I'll take some bacon, too.

[TarteTatin]

We think the bacon from Fair Food is the best we've ever had anywhere.

That's all we buy. I'm not sure which one it is, (they carry two, I think).

But it's packaged in foil by them...

It's just tastier than any we've ever had.

Plus, its local, plus, I think it's nitrate free, but doesn't seem saltier.

Comes frozen, and I buy a few packages at a time to put in the freezer.

Speaking of Fair Food, but a bit off the subject:

(maybe start a different thread?)

Has anyone tried Dr. Elkins ground beef at Fair Food?

He's a local farmer, used to be a Doctor, I believe.

It's the tastiest burger meat in the world!

Local, no added anything, etc. ----and very tasty!

The meat itself has tons of flavor, its not bland or insipid.

[gbredben]

When I'm not making my own bacon, the best bacon I enjoy comes from the Robert George farm which lies about 6 miles west of Danville, PA. Great hickory taste and hickory smell when frying up. However, since that bacon is not readily available in the Philadelphia area, I enjoy the smoked bacon from Sonny D'Angelo and the Niman Ranch varieties available at Trader Joe's. Also, picked up some great apple-wood smoked bacon at Di Bruno's. Damn, now I'm starving!

[mrbigjas]

interesting, gbredben. i have people in danville; next time i'm up there i'll check it out. my favorite ham in the world, that i grew up on, comes from the the country store in pennsdale, up by hughesville, but for some reason that i don't know, i've never had their bacon.

[chrish1]

The County Store does indeed make tasty bacon along with all think porcine. Can you provide directions to the Robert George farm? Are there products available in any local markets that you know of? I live in the area but have never heard of them. Sounds like a good adventure for me and my 4 year old: "son, we are on a mission to find tasty bacon"

[gbredben]

Country Store meats are very good and are sold in a lot of the local country and meat stores in the Danville area. Robert George is an independent butcher. He spends the early part of the week smoking and preparing meats. Hours are Thursday 4:00pm to 8:00pm, Friday 8:00am to 8:00pm and Saturday 8:00am till 12 noon. Directions: Take PA 54 north to PA 642 west. Turn left on PA 45 west and go approximately three miles. Look for sign on right. They also have real good ham, kielbasa, sausage and scrapple. I usually come back after a trip from upstate with a minimum $75 of meat for me and all my friends. Definitely worth the trip. I was told that they will do mail-order for their less perishable items.

George Farms

15 Potts Grove Rd

Danville, PA 17821

Phone: (570) 275-0239

[chrish1]

Thanks for the info on George farm store. Get this: I live about 5 miles from there! Will check it out soon.

[JanMcBaker]

Boy, I knew I really liked bacon but I didn't realize just how much till I was reading this thread! My mouth is watering!! What a great thread! That Robert George place sounds like a great reason for a road trip! But how long would it take to get there from Philadelphia? Judging by the directions, it seems like it would be a rather lengthy trip.

[mrbigjas]

it'll take you about 3 or 3.5 hours to get up there, depending on traffic getting out of town and on the northeast extension.

last night i used the leftover martin's bacon to make a really hearty soup with these yellow-eye beans i got from the spice corner down in the italian market. fried up the bacon with some onion and garlic, put in the beans, a whole pile of thyme, rosemary and marjoram, chicken stock.

and what happened was this: the soup was pretty good last night. but like all bean soups the flavors needed time to combine. and today the smokiness of the bacon had infused the entire soup. it was damn good.

[Jeff L]

it'll take you about 3 or 3.5 hours to get up there, depending on traffic getting out of town and on the northeast extension. 

last night i used the leftover martin's bacon to make a really hearty soup with these yellow-eye beans i got from the spice corner down in the italian market.  fried up the bacon with some onion and garlic, put in the beans, a whole pile of thyme, rosemary and marjoram, chicken stock.

and what happened was this: the soup was pretty good last night.  but like all bean soups the flavors needed time to combine.  and today the smokiness of the bacon had infused the entire soup.  it was damn good.

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Sounds great. This is the perfect time for hearty soups. James, do you make your own stock or use something like Kitchen Basics?

[mrbigjas]

i make my own. i get really frustrated that it's so hard to find a commercial stock that doesn't have a shitload of salt in it, so i gave up and just make a few gallons of my own a few times a year, reducing it really heavily for compact storage.

[Jeff L]

i make my own.  i get really frustrated that it's so hard to find a commercial stock that doesn't have a shitload of salt in it, so i gave up and just make a few gallons of my own a few times a year, reducing it really heavily for compact storage.

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I kind of thought so, reading your posts and getting to speak with you at Evan's wine tasting. Good for you, it is time consuming but well worth it in the end. Do you roast the bones first?

[xtian]

We think the bacon from Fair Food is the best we've ever had anywhere.

That's all we buy. .

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Agreed! It is worth a trip to RTM just for that and their baby arugula to make the most delicious BLTs ever.

Bacon is double-smoked and comes from Green Meadow Farms.

This thread might even inspire me to pull out the Saveur issue from this winter that featured bacon... bacon tempura, peanut butter-bacon cookies, and more.

[mrbigjas]

i make my own.  i get really frustrated that it's so hard to find a commercial stock that doesn't have a shitload of salt in it, so i gave up and just make a few gallons of my own a few times a year, reducing it really heavily for compact storage.

←

I kind of thought so, reading your posts and getting to speak with you at Evan's wine tasting. Good for you, it is time consuming but well worth it in the end. Do you roast the bones first?

←

i realized i never replied to this--yes to beef, no to chicken.

another bacon report: in portland i had what could be the greatest combination of stuff in one place ever: a piece of white sturgeon, wrapped in bacon. with a side of kale and chanterelles and walnuts. if you think about it, bacon goes well with greens, and mushrooms, and fish--but walnuts? who knew?

[rlibkind]

Picked up the apple-smoked bacon from Harry Ochs last Friday, and it is, indeed, very good. As reported, not a strong smoke, so I think it works better as a side to pancakes, eggs, etc., than on a sandwich, though it might also work in some salads. Hard to imagine there's a bacon that might be considered "subtle," at least in comparison to other bacons.

[mrbigjas]

well, with all that bacon we went through in october, you can see why it's been a while, but my research continues: i picked up 1/2 pound of bacon from dutch country meats yesterday, and cooked up a couple of slices this morning. and it's damn good. it's slightly meatier and less aggressively salty than haltemann's. good stuff. a little pricier than the others at $4.89 a pound (if i remember right). one note: i don't know if they are curing it with a brine or what, but it shrank more significantly than the other bacons i mentioned.

[jaredrakes]

When I'm at Acme or Genuardis, I go for Kunzler. It's pretty salty, but always meaty-reliable. It even won out in a 2004 bacon-comparo in the New York Times, I think (tho can't find the article since they're charging for so much stuff now). If I'm flush with cash and near a trader Joe's, Niman Ranch Applewood ain't bad at all.

I've never bought bacon over-the-counter at a deli/butcher...it always seemed to me that it'd likely take on the tastes of everything else under the glass...perhaps I need to explore the fresh side? Any suggestions for good purveyors in the KOP/Wayne area?

[rlibkind]

When I'm at Acme or Genuardis, I go for Kunzler. It's pretty salty, but always meaty-reliable. It even won out in a 2004 bacon-comparo in the New York Times, I think (tho can't find the article since they're charging for so much stuff now). If I'm flush with cash and near a trader Joe's, Niman Ranch Applewood ain't bad at all.

I've never bought bacon over-the-counter at a deli/butcher...it always seemed to me that it'd likely take on the tastes of everything else under the glass...perhaps I need to explore the fresh side? Any suggestions for good purveyors in the KOP/Wayne area?

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The Kunzler bacon did not "win", since the NY Times article really wasn't a firm ranking. The "reduced fat" peppered bacon from Kunzler, however, earned praise with tasters saying it had a rich flavor and they couldn't tell the difference.

There's probably more of a risk in a deli case of other foods taking on the taste of very smokey bacon than vice versa. But in any event, I wouldn't worry about it either way in a properly refrigerated and maintained/cleaned case. Also, the bacon you find in the butcher's case isn't "fresh"; it's still smoked, and therefore not "fresh". The difference is that it is not pre-packaged.

[mrbigjas]

I've never bought bacon over-the-counter at a deli/butcher...it always seemed to me that it'd likely take on the tastes of everything else under the glass...

i suspect it's actually more the other way around--that everything else would take on the smoky flavor. either way i've noticed that och's, martin's, dutch country meats, and haltemann's all put the smoked products in one refrigerator and the fresh meat in a different one.