Dutch Cooking (2005-2006)

[Jensen]

As an aside, Klary, I wish I could read your blogspot blog( I can't read dutch though), the tart looks absolutly wonderful.

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well, it's in RecipeGullet. here so even if you can't read my story, you can make it

that would be a very undutch recipe indeed. Witlof - belgian endive - is a favorite Dutch vegetable, but usually boiled to death

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I've made a similar dish using fresh onions and Serrano ham (photos on my food blog here).

Randi, the key to reading Dutch is to try and read it aloud. Unlike German (which looks like English but sounds completely different), Dutch looks completely different from English but sounds quite a bit alike.

After travelling all over the US and also in Western Europe, I can honestly say that I understood most people in the Netherlands (speaking Dutch) better than I could understand some of the people I met in Arkansas (supposedly speaking English).

[CaliPoutine]

As an aside, Klary, I wish I could read your blogspot blog( I can't read dutch though), the tart looks absolutly wonderful.

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well, it's in RecipeGullet. here so even if you can't read my story, you can make it

that would be a very undutch recipe indeed. Witlof - belgian endive - is a favorite Dutch vegetable, but usually boiled to death

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I've made a similar dish using fresh onions and Serrano ham (photos on my food blog here).

Randi, the key to reading Dutch is to try and read it aloud. Unlike German (which looks like English but sounds completely different), Dutch looks completely different from English but sounds quite a bit alike.

After travelling all over the US and also in Western Europe, I can honestly say that I understood most people in the Netherlands (speaking Dutch) better than I could understand some of the people I met in Arkansas (supposedly speaking English).

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Ok, just did that( you should have seen the way my dogs were looking at me). I only could make out. "pasta" and "apartment" LOLOLOL. I'll just stick with looking at the pictures.

[Jensen]

Ok, just did that( you should have seen the way my dogs were looking at me).  I only could make out. "pasta" and "apartment" LOLOLOL.  I'll just stick with looking at the pictures.

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Oh, you're not trying hard enough!

From the witlof entry, there are:

avontuur ... adventure

kookboeken ... cookbook(s) -- I think the -en ending might be plural

supermarkt .... supermarket

in het supermarkt-neonlicht ... in the neon (fluorescent?) lights of the supermarket

koelkast ... fridge (koel=cool; kast=case)

pijn (from pijnboompitten) ... pine (pitten sounds like "pits" to me, when combined with "pijn" means pinenuts)

And almost an entire paragraph!

"Ik heb mijn kraakverse witlof, wat heb ik verder nodig? Er is altijd bladerdeeg in de vriezer, een restje kaas in de koelkast, pijnboompitten en gedroogde kruiden in het keukenkastje. Een half uur later staat de witloftaart met blauwe kaas op tafel."

"I have my [kraakverse] endive, what can I do with it? There is [altijd] pastry in the freezer, a [bit of??] cheese in the refrigerator, pinenuts and dried herbs in the kitchen cupboards. A half hour later the endive tart with blue cheese stood on the table."

I will confess that some knowledge of German has been helpful. Kaas in Dutch looks an awful lot like Käse in German (and only a little bit like "casein" from English).

Of course, Klary will probably chime in here and tell me I'm full of shit...

[Chufi]

Jen, I'm speechless (in both languanges...) you're very good!!

vers = fresh, kraakvers = something like squeaky fresh, very very fresh.

BTW I sometimes feel that the Dutch language is being taken over by English words. Esepcially in the foodbusiness.. everything is referred to as light, fresh, easy, etc. An english speaking person would feel right at home in our supermarkets!

[Jensen]

Jen, I'm speechless (in both languanges...) you're very good!!

I think I relied a lot on knowledge of German though. Maybe half that and half English.

BTW I sometimes feel that the Dutch language is being taken over by English words. Esepcially in the foodbusiness.. everything is referred to as light, fresh, easy, etc. An english speaking person would feel right at home in our supermarkets!

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There was an article in Der Spiegel (the English version, of course) that talked about that in Germany too--again, especially in the food area. I think the article talked mostly about restaurants, etc., in that regard.

And back to Dutch cooking, we had stamppot for dinner tonight. It's really become a family favourite. Thank you!

[azureus]

Klary,

As penance for insulting your Erwtensoep, I present to you some Dutch-American pastries that I purchased yesterday at a local shop:

The De Hoek Gift Shop opened late last year in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. I didn't visit it right away, as I hadn't realized that they had a tiny bakery in the back. The whole De Hoek family runs the shop and bakes all of their own pastries. The family moved to South Dakota from Pella, Iowa. Pella was settled by Dutch immigrants in the mid-1800s, and the townsfolk are very proud of their heritage. They have a huge tulip festival there every year.

But back to the pastries: On the left is a puff pastry filled with almond paste, it was labeled "Almond Pillow"; the cookies I think are speculaas, made at the bakery; second from the right is an apricot scone; and on the far right is a slice of what they were calling an almond tart. I think that it's made from two layers of dough similar to your Gevulde koeken, with a thick layer of almond paste in the middle. It's very addictive, and quite rich.

I've been in a few times now, and the family is alway very friendly and happy to answer all of my questions. They are interested to know if scones are popular in the Netherlands. They said that according to tradition, the Dutch invented scones, but that they were called something like "skonbrot" (sorry about my spelling). The joke is that the English couldn't pronounce it properly, so they changed the name to scones. True or not, they had great fun relating the story.

Now, I'm going to go sample my pastries. It was difficult to leave them alone long enough to photograph them!

April

[Jensen]

They said that according to tradition, the Dutch invented scones, but that they were called something like "skonbrot" (sorry about my spelling).  The joke is that the English couldn't pronounce it properly, so they changed the name to scones.  True or not, they had great fun relating the story.

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I guess the Scots borrowed the name for their coronation stone (palace and town) too. I can definitely see the attraction of naming such an illustrious part of their heritage after a Dutch bread.

[Chufi]

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April.. thank you so much for making the HUGE sacrifice to go to that shop and buy those pastries.. I really appreciate it

Yes, that's definitely speculaas. The almond pillow is sold over here as "amandelbroodje". The almond tart on the right does indeed look like the gevulde koeken, only the almond paste seems to be much darker, maybe there were spices in it?

I'm stunned about the scone story. I googled around a bit and looked through my Dutch pastry books but I can't find anything about that. Scones are thought of as something typically English over here, and it's kind of hard to find them.

If you're ever in that shop again, would you mind asking how they learned about that?

[Pontormo]

Klary: I have just gotten around to exploring this thread and have by no means read through it all.

Let me say, first, that your skills as a baker really impress me.

Second, I should have suspected this from something you initiated long ago to introduce us to unusual vegetables, one of the first threads I read on eGullet. Nonetheless, you have really helped me correct prejudices. All friends returning from research or travel through The Netherlands have ever spoken about were french fries with mayo!

I find your own newly acquired, retrospective appreciation for traditional foods a real incentive for learning more about culinary traditions that are unfamiliar to me. It's a kind of personal change in attitude that many of us experience once we have distinguished ourselves from our parents and proven how original and creative we are.

The ginger cake featured in the very first entries is something I HAVE to try since I love crystalized ginger; candied ginger in syrup has just started to appear on local supermarket shelves. As someone who adores split pea soup--and celery root--I find your two versions are also inspirational.

Finally, though, I have to ask about those intriguing pears that turn red like quinces when cooked. Do you know how wide-spread they are, that is, if they are grown any place other than The Netherlands? What is their official name in Dutch?

[Kim D]

I made the beef braised in butter a week or so ago. I thought it would be nice. But nothing more than that.

I was wrong.

When the meat was done cooking, I took it out of the butter sauce. I riced my potatoes directly into the pan so I wouldn't miss any of the butter and brown bits. Poured in some warmed heavy cream. Mixed it up, took a bite, and just about swooned.

The meat did taste of butter. When I first read the recipe, the thought of beef tasting of butter didn't do much for me. But when I tasted it, all of a sudden, beef tasting of butter did something for me.

My husband told a Dutch co-worker about our meal.

His reply?

"Grandma food."

I'll be making it again. Just don't call me Grandma.

[SobaAddict70]

By the way, Chufi will have a Foodblog installment later this spring. I thought most of you would appreciate that.

I know I'm looking forward to it.

Soba

[azureus]

By the way, Chufi will have a Foodblog installment later this spring.  I thought most of you would appreciate that.

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Congratulations, Chufi! We can't wait!

April

[Chufi]

I find your own newly acquired, retrospective appreciation for traditional foods a real incentive for learning more about culinary traditions that are unfamiliar to me.  It's a kind of personal change in attitude that many of us experience once we have distinguished ourselves from our parents and proven how original and creative we are.

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Thank you, Pontormo, for your kind words, and you are so right about that change in attitude. It's what this thread has done for me, my whole approach to food has changed. It's quite marvellous.

Finally, though, I have to ask about those intriguing pears that turn red like quinces when cooked.  Do you know how wide-spread they are, that is, if they are grown any place other than The Netherlands?  What is their official name in Dutch?

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The pears are called Gieser Wildeman. Apparently the variety was developed in the Netherlands around 1850, by a Mr. Wildeman!

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They are quite common, if old-fashioned, over here. I have no idea if they are grown outside of the Netherlands. Googling for them on English sites did not bring up much information (although I did find this thread, which was kind of funny to see )

But, since April told me she's growing capucijners in her garden, nothing surprises me!!

Edited January 23, 2006 by Chufi (log)

[Chufi]

I made the beef braised in butter a week or so ago. I thought it would be nice. But nothing more than that.

I was wrong.

(...)

The meat did taste of butter. When I first read the recipe, the thought of beef tasting of butter didn't do much for me. But when I tasted it, all of a sudden, beef tasting of butter did something for me. 

My husband told a Dutch co-worker about our meal.

His reply?

"Grandma food."

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Kim, I'm glad you liked it..

Yes, it's referred to as grandma food over here as well.. The term can be used both affectionately (with nostalgia, "like grandma used to make") as in a more negative way: old fashioned, not trendy, too plain food. I don't care.. a great dish made with good beef and good butter can never go out of fashion!

[Chufi]

Tulband - Dutch candied fruit cake

Tulband means turban in Dutch and I guess that has something to do with the shape of the mould that this cake is baked in. I think this mold is known as Bundt pan or Gugelhopf mould in other countries.

This cake was the obligatory festive cake in my mother's family. It was always there, on every holiday and for every birthday. The best thing about it (for me as a child) was that it wasn't served as a sweet with coffe or tea, but served at the broodmaaltijd - (the meal that consists primarily of fresh bread, cold cuts and cheeses, traditionally this would be eaten in the evening, while the warm dinner was served at midday). So you could have a slice of this, thickly smeared with butter, instead of your cheese sandwich

Today was the first time I made it myself. I actually thought about it because I had some angelica lying around that I did not really know what to do with. Then I spotted the bright red candied fruits at my market and I thought of the jewel like flecks of candied fruit in tulband. Here it is!

120 grams flour

100 grams softened butter

100 grams sugar

100 grams candied fruits and peel, (any mix will be good, but make sure it's colorful - this cake is supposed to end up looking slightly tacky )

grated zest of half a lemon

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

pinch of salt

5 large eggs, seperated.

extra butter and flour for the tin

1 tablespoon of flour for the fruit

First prepare your tin. Butter and flour it very carefully, make sure every little crevice is greased and floured. This cake has a tendency to stick.. I remember this from when my mother made them regularly..

Preheat your oven to 350 F / 180 C.

Mix the candied fruit with the tablespoon of flour in a sieve. Repeat a couple of times. This will stop the fruit from sinking to the bottom of the cake.

Cream the egg yolks with the sugar and when they're nice and light, add the soft butter. Mix it in but don't mix too much. Fold in the flour, add the salt, mix gently, and then mix in the lemon zest, candied fruit and vanilla.

Beat the eggwhites until stiff. Gently fold them into the batter. Pour into the tin, tap it on the counter several times to make sure the batter is evenly distributed (my cake ended up a little lopsided so I guess I didn't do very well here).

Bake for 35 - 40 minutes, start checking after 30. The cake should be lightly browned.

Let cool in the tin for 5 minutes then carefully turn out. Oops.. I told you this has a tendency to stick. But if you carefully remove the stuck bits you can usually plaster it back together.

Dust with icing sugar. Eat as it is or spread with butter.. very good with a strong cup of tea.

edited to add the salt...

Edited February 6, 2006 by Chufi (log)

[Anna N]

Tulband - Dutch candied fruit cake

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That looks wonderful. Have you any experience in freezing it. I would like to make it for my hubby to take as a snack in his packed lunch and I have all the ingredients on hand so it looks very doable. Most of the cakes and quick breads I make for him, I slice and package individually. It makes it very easy each morning to grab a snack and it will thaw nicely by coffee break.

[Chufi]

That looks wonderful.  Have you any experience in freezing it.  I would like to make it for my hubby to take as a snack in his packed lunch and I have all the ingredients on hand so it looks very doable.  Most of the cakes and quick breads I make for him, I slice and package individually.  It makes it very easy each morning to grab a snack and it will thaw nicely by coffee break.

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I don't see why that wouldn't work. It is moist yet light and I think the texture wouldn't suffer too much... but I've never tried freezing it myself.. would you like me to test freeze a slice for you? I could report back tomorrow..

[Anna N]

That looks wonderful.  Have you any experience in freezing it.  I would like to make it for my hubby to take as a snack in his packed lunch and I have all the ingredients on hand so it looks very doable.  Most of the cakes and quick breads I make for him, I slice and package individually.  It makes it very easy each morning to grab a snack and it will thaw nicely by coffee break.

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I don't see why that wouldn't work. It is moist yet light and I think the texture wouldn't suffer too much... but I've never tried freezing it myself.. would you like me to test freeze a slice for you? I could report back tomorrow..

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That's very nice of you to offer, Klary, but I think I am going to just take a chance on it freezing - it should work. I won't be making it for a few days as I have commitments that need my attention but I will post once I make it and let you know how it works out. I think it's just great that you take the time to share your cooking with us.

[Kevin72]

Beautiful as always, Chufi. And that's a great tip on flouring large ingredients to keep them from sinking; a perennial problem when I make similar items.

[Chufi]

That looks wonderful.  Have you any experience in freezing it.  I would like to make it for my hubby to take as a snack in his packed lunch and I have all the ingredients on hand so it looks very doable.  Most of the cakes and quick breads I make for him, I slice and package individually.  It makes it very easy each morning to grab a snack and it will thaw nicely by coffee break.

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I don't see why that wouldn't work. It is moist yet light and I think the texture wouldn't suffer too much... but I've never tried freezing it myself.. would you like me to test freeze a slice for you? I could report back tomorrow..

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I just ate a slice that I froze yesterday, and defrosted this afternoon. Tastes good! (Don't know how weeks in the freezer would affect it ofcourse.. )

[Anna N]

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I just ate a slice that I froze yesterday, and defrosted this afternoon. Tastes good!  (Don't know how weeks in the freezer would affect it ofcourse.. )

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I was hoping I would not have to 'fess up.... but I tried to make the cake yesterday and completely ruined it - my fault I am sure - did not have bundt pan so thought I might be able to make a tube pan work. Unfortunately, the only tube pan I own is one that is designed for both the microwave and conventional ovens and hence is some sort of plastic - the cake did not rise.

Thanks for the experiment and I will be looking for a bundt pan in the next little while so I can try again.

[Chufi]

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I just ate a slice that I froze yesterday, and defrosted this afternoon. Tastes good!  (Don't know how weeks in the freezer would affect it ofcourse.. )

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I was hoping I would not have to 'fess up.... but I tried to make the cake yesterday and completely ruined it - my fault I am sure - did not have bundt pan so thought I might be able to make a tube pan work. Unfortunately, the only tube pan I own is one that is designed for both the microwave and conventional ovens and hence is some sort of plastic - the cake did not rise.

Thanks for the experiment and I will be looking for a bundt pan in the next little while so I can try again.

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oh I am so sorry.. you know mine did not rise that much.. after all there's nothing in it to make it rise but the beaten eggwhites. Maybe if you added some baking powder or used selfraisingflour?

A tube pan should work, after all it's the same shape?

I'll make it again soon and try it with the baking powder. I won't put the recipe in Recipe Gullet for now!

[sanrensho]

This cake was the obligatory festive cake in my mother's family. It was always there, on every holiday and for every birthday.

Hi Klary. Nice to see this thread back again.

Do you mean that tulband is baked on birthdays as part of the festive table (and not the birthday cake itself)? Is there a traditional Dutch birthday cake? I'd like to hear about that.

[Chufi]

This cake was the obligatory festive cake in my mother's family. It was always there, on every holiday and for every birthday.

Hi Klary. Nice to see this thread back again.

Do you mean that tulband is baked on birthdays as part of the festive table (and not the birthday cake itself)? Is there a traditional Dutch birthday cake? I'd like to hear about that.

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yes, the tulband would have been 'extra'. It was also traditionally served at Christmastime.

Nowadays, there are not many people who would make tulband - let alone serve it at their birthday! But the traditional Dutch birthday cake was, and still is, a simple layered spongecake with a filling and frosting of whipped cream, the sides of the cake covered in flaked almonds, maybe with fresh sesaonal fruits on top.

[Chufi]

Strictly speaking, this isn't Dutch Cooking, but it is uniquely Dutch food (as far as I know:)

beschuit met muisjes

These are dry, airy biscuits (rusks?), spread with butter and sprinkled with muisjes - literally, little mice - which are aniseeds with a crunchy sugar coating. These are traditionally served to you when you come visit a newborn baby: blue and white if it's a boy, pink and white if it's a girl.

They are only eaten on this occasion. (But, you can also buy a version that is only sugar, with aniseed flavor, which is more common to eat as a 'sprinkle' on bread, even without a newborn in the family )

Edited February 8, 2006 by Chufi (log)