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Food Media & News DIGEST: Texas 2005


Raynickben

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[Moderator's Note: Please click here to go to the DIGEST for 2004.]

Both the Ft. Worth Star Telegram and The Dallas Morning News food sections are pretty light this week. They mostly consist of articles re-printed from OTHER national newspapers so I won't post links to them.

The Dallas Morning News

Winter wake-up call by Abby Mandel: Suggestions for a winter breakfast.

Ye Olde Butcher Shop in Plano is featured in a story by Tina Danze. On Wednesdays you can get an elk burger!

Small-Batch Baking by Debby Maugans Nakos is reviewed by Kim Pierce.

And I just had to post one of the most unappetizing food photos not appearing on Fear Factor I've ever seen.

The subject is flattening chicken breasts and the fatty destroyed specimen is here.

Finally, the link to the Dallas Morning News Best New Restaurants of 2004 is here.

The food section should be more interesting next week when the Food and Wine staff test local Italian sausages. Until then, go eat an elk burger.

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The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Trends with taste by Amy Culbertson profiles 5 up and coming ingredients you should add to your pantry.

Like smoked paprika. You need to read the article for the other four.

The Dallas Morning News: Business

Karen Robinson-Jacobs reports on the Dallas health department's changes to the restaurant inspection scoring system. They plan to introduce letter grades and offer more inspection information on the website. ABCDF!

I could get all political here but I'm not allowed to do that. Just know that this cannot be a good omen: Drive-thru Ordering by Karen Robinson-Jacobs.

The Dallas Morning News: Food and Wine

As promised it is the results of the Italian Sausage contest. Article by Kim Pierce.

Results. Central Market is not going to be happy.....

Cheryl Ng Collett reports on Frisco's Penang Nyonya, a very well reviewed Malaysian restaurant.

indian home cooking by egullet's own Suvir Saran and Stephanie Lyness is reviewed by Susan Taylor.

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Houston Press Dining Section:

The Fickle Fez

Bourdain tells us to 'not eat fish on Mondays' and now Robb Walsh proclaims "skip the tabbouleh on Mondays" in his review of La Fendee.

Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

A Posh Pleasure in Southhampton

Alison Cook reviewes Antica Osteria.

Cause and Effect

Roberta McCinnis reviewes the history of cocktail bitters and tells us why it is invaluable to mixologists.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News: Food and Wine

Well, my beloved Philadelphia Eagles are going to The Super Bowl and I am in such a state of excitement and anticipation I can't stand it! I'm jumping out of my skin! I just knew the DMN food section would have a Super Bowl party issue today and I was looking forward to some ideas for my upcoming event. Imagine how perplexed I was to see that yes, the DMN has an article on Super Bowl party food but is it on Philly Cheesesteaks? Pretzels? How to order Tastykakes? No. It features the New Orleans Muffaletta! And Creole Mushroom Dip! And Bourbon cookies! Let me tell you the New Orleans Saints never had a chance to go to the Super Bowl so why on earth would they go with the overdone, irrelevant Muffalata??? I'm sure there is a New England Patriot fan out there as equally perplexed as I am but I'm not talking to them. Go Eagles!

Bowl 'em over by Abby Mandel.

Joyce Saenz Harris sat in at a recent Central Market cooking class with Food Network's Cat Cora. Sounds like she had a great time. Anarchy rules.

Bake it, a Good Housekeeping cookbook on baked goods is reviewed by Mary Ellen Botter.

Sharon Hudgins visits For You-European Cafe & Delicatessen located in Plano. They specialize in authentic Polish home-style cooking. It sounds wonderful!

The Dallas Morning News: Guide Live

Java Joints by Mike Daniel features what's happening at local eclectic coffee shops.

E-A-G-L-E-S EAGLES!!!

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Houston Chronicle Dining Guide:

Surrender To Siam

I always enjoy reviews of restaurants outside of the much reviewed inner loop. Alison Cook visits and falls in love with Thai Siam.

For the Love of chocolate, and each other

Valentine's Day is around the corner and Dai Huynh scouts the city for luscious confections made from the food of the gods- Chocolate. She lists it all, from starwberries, to apricots, to fudge and toffee. Take your pick.

Houston Press Dining Section:

Modern Masala

Robb Walsh visits Ashiana, now under a new owner who seemingly cannot tell lobster from shrimp. The review is not all bad, since they supposedly have the best lunch buffet in town!

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

Happy 4703! The Year of the Rooster. Today is the start of the Chinese New Year and Esther Wu has a great article on dumplings; featuring the owner of Jeng Chi Restaurant in Richarson.

Kim Pierce presents info on some of the new fruit liqueurs that are springing up.

Laura H. Ehret reviews the cookbook America's Test Kitchen Live!

Susan Taylor has some sandwich choices you may want to try.

Stella M. Chavez reports on Frisco's thriving Hispanic population and business district. What does this have to do with food? Well, there is a new meat market opening soon! La Paloma Meat Market

Dallas Observer

I have always wondered why newspapers print pictures of smiling, prowd owners of a poorly reviewed restaurant. Surely they were not expecting a scathing review when they posed. Obviously the review happens before the picture otherwise the owners would know they were being reviewed. So someone with the publication comes in and says "Hey we just reviewed your restaurant. Can we get a picture?" And the owners are thrilled to get the publicity. They probably go and buy a pretty frame to hang the review on the wall. And then the review comes out...not smiling now.

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Houston Press Dining Section:

Banana Breakfast

Sabor! offers a worthy breakfast Central American style. Not so much when it comes to dinner though. Robb Walsh also visits Pollo Campero's breakfast menu.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide:

Charmed, I'm sure

Alison Cook dines at the charming but seemingly inconsistent Bistro Calais.

Changes at Mockingbird

Dai Huynh reports that Chef Sheely left Mockingbird Bistro to his ex-wife and her son-in-law.

No longer forgotten, this drink is gaining on vodka and rekindling interest in the cocktails of yesteryear

Dai Huynh is talking about Vodka...er..I mean Gin in this article. Well I am not that far off as it turns out Gin is the first flavored Vodka!

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

Recently a new chocolate operation opened in Plano. This is no Hershey's. It's Noka and you can read all about the owners and their luxury product here. The website for Noka Chocolate has the selections and (cue scary music) THE PRICES!

-story by Joyce Saenz Harris

Light years away from Noka is "A user's guide to pan dulce." Barbara Rodriguez describes some of the varieties available and where to purchase them.

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Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide:

Serious entrees, served with fun

Alison Cook visits the steak house whose name will be right at home on the plaque of a NY brokerage firm - Smith and Wollensky. The food seems to be a hit and miss.

Due Recognition

Dai Huynh reports:

- Zula to recieve the Ivy Award for excellence. Bravo!

- Felix, the Tex-Mex landmark, will not close it's doors...for now.

Houston Press Dining Section:

French Food Sans Frenchmen

Robb Walsh reviews Bistro Calais as part of a trio of French restaurant articles.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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D Magazine

The Food Staff of D Magazine presents their list of The Best Neighborhood Restaurants. You probably won't see many changes from previous years editions which is a GOOD thing since it means the little guy is still battling the behemoth chains, and battling them well.

Dallas Observer

Dave Faries asks "Why can't you get Texas food outside of Texas?" I ask this question all the time!!! He doesn't really give a satisfying answer (more like "duh!") but at least I know I'm not the only one wondering about this.

The Dallas Morning News

Beatriz Terrazas gives a non-New Orleans look at Mardi Gras called a courir: The country Mardi Gras.

Katharine Goodloe interviews Frances Mayes, author of Under the Tuscan Sun and discovers Mayes unexpected culinary connection to Italy.

The Cast Iron Skillet Cookbook: Recipes for the best pan in your kitchen by Sharon Kramis is reviewed by John Lose.

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Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide:

Taquenos On Tap

Alison Cook reviews Miguelito’s Venezuelan restaurant. The homey little joint has some winner items, especially the Taquenos (the place is right across the street from Pete’s Fine Meats).

A bouquet of flavors

Kumquats, some chefs love them some are not too fond of them. Dai Huynh checks out whose using them and how among Houston’s restaurants.

Hosuton Press' Dining section:

It's Le Bombe

Robb Walsh continues his Houston Franco tour and reviews Bistro Moderne at the hotel Derek. It seems like the boutique hotel finally cast off it’s bad restaurants’ curse. Check out this excerpt:

“The sauce is cooked with spicy sausage, which is then strained out. When we finished the mussels, the bottom of the bowl contained so much chorizo-and-mussel-flavored cream, we couldn't possibly get it all by dunking bread into it. I actually contemplated getting the rest of the cream sauce packaged to go, but then I envisioned myself drinking it in the parking lot. So I sadly let it go to waste.”

Hungry for some French food yet?

Wine Geek Chic

The movie “Sideways” is causing quiet a stir in the wine world. Robb Walsh reports its effects on the Houston wine scene.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Jeff Siegel suggests some wine and food pairings in Great Wines for Good Times.

The Dallas Morning News

Ian McCann has some highlights from last weekend's Savor Dallas.

Dotty Griffith reports on how a few top chefs are helping improve the frozen pizza for The Freschetta Culinary Council.

Kim Pierce reviews the cookbook The Gourmet Burger by Paul Gayler.

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Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide:

A Culinary Romance

Another review of Bistro Moderne following last week's Walsh. Alison Cook seems very impressed by this third and hopefully final -three times' a charm?- incarnation of the restaurant at Hotel Derek.

Houston Press Dining Section:

The Silver Tower Meets The Shining

No, it is not the latest hollywood blockbuster. It is rather the third -hmmm..the word third and final shows up again- and final isntallment of Robb Walsh's French restaurant reviews. Walsh finds La Tour D'argent serves up good French food in a somewhat acquired ambience that teeters on skanky and creepy :unsure::wacko:.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Houston Press' Cover Story

Mixing It Up

Robb Walsh writes this enjoyable piece about the cocktail, why we love it in Houston, where it came from and where it fits on a dinner menu in the 21st century.

Houston Press' Dining Section

Fire-Breathing Burger

Ever had a Pakistani Burger? Robb Walsh claims that everyone should at Himalaya restaurant. They seem to have very good goat dishes as well :smile:.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

Lunch is now in session

Lana Berkowitz tells us where to eat if we are ever on a jury panel. Options seem scarce though.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Houston Press' Cover Story

Beefcake

Steven Devadanam writes about a new unusual bakery opening up in Sugarland of all places. The “kinky” new place is called “Nooky’s” and it specializes in erotic baking. Yes, erotic baking, stuff like "coochie cake" and "Big Louie"!!

Houston Press' Dining Section

Thai High

Robb Walsh dines and writes about Thai Sticks. The new Thai white table cloth restaurant has found it’s identity after a rocky start.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

Still A Little Raw

Alison Cook reviews Sushi King, serving “raw” food and not in a positive way. The place seemed to have potential until the chef was fired and the food dumbed down.

Way Off The Menu

Dai Huynh examines the not so new attitude of the Chefs’ “don’t ask, don’t tell” practice when it comes to unorthodox ingredients in our food. Actually sometimes it seems like an “ask, don’t tell” attitude.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Houston Press' Dining Section

The Seoul of Sharpstown

Robb Walsh reviews the Korean joint Sam Bo Jung. It might not be the best but is might just be the most eclectic.

Houston Chronicle's Food Section

Tito’s Vodka: The spirit of Texas- Literally

Michael Barnes reports about the only fine vodka made in TX.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

A Bite Of Heaven- North Italian Style

Alison Cook reviews La Parmigiana in Cypress where they have one of the best pizza in the city. Well, it’s not the city anymore, is it?

Savoring the Ceremony

Dai Huynh chats with Serenitea (cool name BTW) owner, and discusses the Japanese tea ceremony.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Houston Press' Dining Section

Less Price, Less Spice

Robb Walsh reviews the new Madola fast-casual place “Pronto Cucinino”.

Houston Chronicle's Food Section

Good as Gold

Peggy Grodinsky reports on this practically Houston native fruit that no one seems to want to eat, the wonderful Loquat.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

Handmade to Please

Alison Cook reviews the friendly neighborhood Mexican restaurant Romero’s Las Brazas on HWY 6 North:

“Mainly, though, I love this place. I admire the sweet servers, male and female alike crisply dressed in white shirts, black ties and long black aprons. I adore the two gentlemen who play guitar on weekends, sitting calmly near the front of the room and never — how civilized is this? — trolling for tips. (Remember them on your way out.)”

Elie

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

The Annual IACP convention was held in Dallas two weeks ago. The Food and Wine Staff gives some info on where these culinary professionals spent their time and money: What the foodies saw... and When in Dallas.

Kim Pierce and Susan Taylor present their favorites of local food purveyors: Dallas Eats.

All the Flavor, a lot less heat is on Dried New Mexico chiles. How to buy them, use them, and love them are all in the article by Mick Weisberg.

Toya Lynn Stewart reports on a recent visit by two vintners from the Association of African American Vintners to an event sponsered by the African American Wine Tasting Society. Story here.

Genesis Women's Shelter has a new compilation cookbook to mark its 20th Anniversary: Creating Comfort.

Dallas Observer

Times Ten Cellers is opening in Lakewood. (second paragraph)

The Ft. Worth Star Telegram

Ok, this article on a consumer test of pans is reprinted from The Chicago Tribune but it is worthy: Out of the Frying Pan.

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

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Houston Press' Dining Section

There's No Place Like Home

Brian McManus tells us why we should stay at home if the only dining option we have is Montrose Cafe.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

Floyd's doing right bayou

See why Alison Cook believes that "Life in this corner of the Bay Area has just gotten a lot more interesting" after a visit to Floyd's...yes THE Floyd's.

Elie

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

*In the business section: Karen Robinson-Jacobs reports that sales of spices are feeling hot, hot, hot.

(that song will now be stuck in your head. you're welcome.)

Burning desire features interviews with Dallas-based Pendery's, TGI-Fridays, and Brinker.

*Want more spice? Guidelive writer Bindu Varghese offers a Kaleidoscope of curry, a quite extensive primer on the different styles of curries and where to sample them.

*Michael Merschel visited The Buffalo Gap Festival, a laid-back food and wine event. Looks like a must-go for next year. Recipes too!

*Here's a new word for you: Flexitarian. (may I have the country of origin? may I have that in a sentence please? You go spelling bee people!)

Kim Pierce and Anna Pierce provide us non-flexitarians a Veggie scorecard. The Pierce duo delve into the "meat restrictors", (sounds like a raptor), and offer recipes too.

*Beatriz Terrazas reflects upon the dilemma that some vegetarians have when served meat by a gracious host. Dinner, sometimes, is more than food.

*I bet meat-restrictors are free to celebrate the 75th birthday of The Twinkie!. This article was written by Washington Post columnist Candy Sagon but since the Texas State Fair sells fried twinkies each year I thought it had some local appeal....to someone.

*Susan Taylor reports on new ownerships of Morgen Chocolate and Out of Flower. Here.

*Cathy Barber reviews The Passionate Olive: 101 things to do with olive oil. Oh behave!

Dallas Observer

*Dave Faries always writes such interesting articles. Place Setting the Scene views the "in crowd" who flit from bar to restaurant to bar and how this effects the restaurants and bars. Egullet is mentioned too. He refers to us as "hardcore gourmands". Nice!

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

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Houston Press' Dining Section

Thai Seas

Robb Walsh eats the best Thai seafood this side of Phuket at Merlion in Seabrook. IT sure got me craving shrimp.

Wurst-Case Scenario

Robb Walsh reviews Alfredo's German bar. This review is on eof the funniest most amusing pieces I've read in a while. I am tempted to go just to quiz Alfredo a little more about food and the Houston dining scene.

Houston Chronicle's Dining Guide

Marco's wiles

Alison Cook reviewes Da Marco's and announces it one of the best Italian eateries in the country.

French toast: It's a delicate balance

With the term Freedom Toast mercifully out of the way, the all American French Toast -yes it is an American invention- is featured on top Houston restaurants and Cafes menus alike. Dai Huynh reports on who is and how they are serving this classic food.

Elie

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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The Dallas Morning News

-Remember all the hoopla when Il Mulino was coming to Dallas? Here we go again. NOBU is set to open next month at the Hotel Crescent Court. Katharine Goodloe reports from New York on what diners can expect once the Japanese restuarant opens. The lowdown on NOBU

-For something completely different try Elke's Market Cafe. Located in Allen, the cafe is owned by the daughter of the Kuby's of Kuby's Sausage House. Sharon Hudgins provides the info.

-Also new is Chateau de Fromage. Joyce Saenz Harris features the new artisanal cheese shop located in Deep Ellum. Can't have too many cheese shops in my opinion!!

-Everything you always wanted to know about Chaat. Susan Taylor provides plenty of info on this Indian fast food; what it is, where to get it, etc. Bindu Varhese raves about the the Chaat Corner of Taj Mahal Imports located in Richardson.

-Across the world (and the metroplex) we have La Paletera. Featuring sweets from Mexico this Irving shop specializes in paletas, Mexican frozen fruit pops. Article by Susan Taylor.

-Katie Menzer reports on the hidden cameras on the food stands at American Airlines Center. The cameras ensure we'll get quality service but does nothing to improve the nasty nacho cheese sauce. AAC.

-Rhapsody in Recipes by Joyce Saenz Harris reviews the publishing trend of non-foodie authors and their new cookbooks. Examples: Pat Conroy, Maya Angelou, Liz Smith.

-Kim Pierce reports on the Culinary Trust, a group specializing in reprinting historic cookbooks.

-Kim Pierce also reviews cookbooks Weber's Real Grilling and 12 Best Foods Cookbook.

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

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The Dallas Morning News

Dave Levinthal reports on the Dallas Farmers Market's efforts to increase the number of growers selling their produce at the market rather than the vendors and wholesalers who populate the market now. Plans include holding live concerts, cooking classes, karaoke (say what?) to liven up the place. Not everyone is happy about the upcoming changes or the possiblity of hearing Islands in the stream even once a day.

Ready to take a fresh approach.

Apparently "nobody wants a slow meal" says Alison Brushaber. She is the VP of TurboChef Techonologies, Inc. based in Dallas. TurboChef won a kitchen innovaton contest for their high-speed ovens used in Subway's and THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK!

Ah, First karaoke and now this......I need some speed man. -Article by Karen Robinson-Jacobs.

It's Memorial Day. Here's some info and recipes on coleslaw, from Joyce Saenz Harris. Slaw & Order

Texas Pastures is this state's first organic bottled milk. Kim Pierce provides info on how it is made, who is making it, and where to buy it. Moo Juice.

Kim Pierce features a bakery down on lower Greenville the donates a portion of their profits to charity.

Society Bakery showcases cakes, cookies, brownies, and a good heart.

Eat this Book: Cooking with Global Fresh Flavors by Tyler Florence is reviewed by Kim Pierce.

This thread is for food media DIGEST entries. If you want to discuss one of these news items, please start a separate discussion thread.

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The Dallas Morning News

The Victory Park complex which surrounds American Airlines Center (home of YOUR Dallas Mavericks!) will soon be home to some top-notch restaurants. Start saving your money now.

Star Chefs warm up for spots at Victory by Dotty Griffith and Karen Robinson-Jacobs.

Dotty Griffith also reports on The Modern, a fine dining restaurant located in the MoMA.

Yes, that museum is still in NYC but I think if the DMN prints a story on your dinner they have to pay for it. Smart.

Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch, located in Rio Frio, offers spa cuisine you may actually want to eat. Joyce Saenz Harris visits the ranch and spends time with Paula Disbrowe, The Cowgirl Chef.

Hart & Hind's website is here.

Spears of Joy by Abby Mandel. All you need to know about Asparagus.

Kim Pierce takes you to Dallas City Market, a gourmet mini-mart located on Lovers Lane.

Wow. A whole article on Jeffrey Weiss's encounter with a $56 cheese. Remember what I said about the DMN paying for your food?

Good call Mr. Weiss.

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The Dallas Morning News

Business Section

Texas has the second-largest restaurant workforce in the nation. To keep up with the need for workers the restauranteurs are having to increase benefits and offer incentives. Karen Robinson-Jacobs reports on Bringing perks to the table.

Texas Living Section

Katharine Goodloe and Michael Granberry bring you behind the scenes of Dallas' latest and greatest: The road to Nobu. This is the DMN's second feature article in less than a month on Nobu. Man, if I owned a competing restaurant I'd be pissed!

Firecracker Fourth by Sharon Hudgins features an interview with Dave DeWitt, author of The Spicy Food Lover's Bible and includes recipes.

I'm sure this guy is an egullet member: Tucker Shaw, author of a new book titled Everything I ate--A year in the life of my mouth.

Writer Michael Precker wonders who the heck is going to buy this thing.

D Magazine

Nancy Nicholas visits Super Suppers. This article will prove there IS such thing as bad publicity.

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