Summer food and wine

[Andre]

Tasted August 11th 2005.

A good indication of a better restaurant is their alternating seasonal menues. Unfortunately, little attention is paid to the wines that should accompany the updated food.

Retsina Tsantali, Greece.

It would be a shame to term this as wine and is unfit for human consumption.

Semillon Chardonnay WillowGlen, De Bortoli 2004

Slightly more oaky than their previous versions, yet well tuned and with a good texture.

Best match: fried fish.

Riesling, Ockenheimer Laberstall Spatlese, Weingut Merz 2000.

Although the label states trocken [dry] this medium dry portrays a sweet nose, fine depth and structure and a fair amount of acidity. A good expression of a late vintage.

Best match: sharp acidic cheese with fresh figs.

Gewurztraminer Villiera, Soth Africa 2003.

Jeff Grier of Villiera is consistantly improving his Gewurzt. Highly perfumed with hints of mild spice, rose water and lychee.

A fine texture stresing the herbs and spice on the finish.

Best match: Asian noodels of a fairly wide range of flavors.

Lambrusco Daunia Toser, Italy.

Nothing to dicscuss in the case of this med. Dry frizante red.

Best match: An all around drink to be served cold.

Valpolicella Vlpantena Pasqua 2003.

This wine consists of just the right amount of greenish flavors to give its fruity character a more siruis aspect.

Best match: Enjoy slightly chilled with your barbecue.

Brouilly Les Saburins, Louis Latour 2002.

Finess and class are good terms for this soft and gentle wine.

Best match: A young goat cheese will do fine, mind that it should not be too acidic.

Cabernet Sauvignon Vinas del Vero, Somontano 2000.

A medium bodied mature and very well balanced wine.

Best match: A good steak.

Rioja Marques de Caceres, Vendimia Seleccionada 2000.

Enjoy the 2000 over the supposedly better 2001 vintage as this Crianza is slightly softer with a very good typical earthy, mature oak texture and with plenty of depth.

Best match: Carpaccio of veal with a touch of Balsami and chives of Reggiano. The complexity of this wine allows it also to be a good match to any veal and herb combination.

Quoting a voice from the past: "remember, always play with your food" and I may add "',and wine"

[JohnL]

Hi-

Quite an interesting "mix" of wines.

I happen to like retsina--it would certainly fit into the "acquired taste" category--though I liked it the first time I had it.

I find that on a hot summer day the "resiny" dryness of this flavored wine is actually quite nice and retsina really goes well with the earthy rustic aspect of Greek cooking.

While it is a definite love it or hate it wine--it is more akin to vermouth than it is to basic white wine or rose.

[Andre]

John Hi,

I know Retsina, drink Retsina on occasions and am carefull to kill any wine, namely Greek [My wife is Greek] yet, Tsantali's version should be outlawed, the winemaker and witnesses have their memories erased and file a formal appology to all other Retsina producers.

They are definitely off the Mondovino 2 recommended list!

[JohnL]

Thanks Andre!

I will make sure I avoid the Tsantali! lol

I am just beginning exploring greek wines any recommendations?

we are starting to see more and more on the shelves here in NYC.

[Andre]

Sory for the late response John,

Greece is a very old style wine country rapidly shifting into the the 21st century.

I value its tradtion and have lots of respect for those domestic farmers making wines, Souma, Raki, Tsekothia and the like.

If you inform me about the Greek producers in your neighborhood - I can be more helpfull, otherwise try:

Hatzimichali, Karas, Skouras, Chateau Lazaridi and Emery.

Try to try the local varietals such as Assertico for whites and Aghiorghitico and xynomavro for reds.

Enjoy.

[evilhomer]

Coming home from greece two weeks ago we filled our bags with lazziridi's trebbiano (ugni blanc). It's a very interesting take on the grape - floral, chalky, yeasty, some pear and apples - it was not entirely unlike a champagne in flavour profile (albeit without the bubbles) but with very interesting floral and mineral components and edging towards off-dry. I'm not sure to what extent it is exported (though i've seen other lazzirid wines around) so keep an eye out for it.