Need your input on my NOLA dining plans

happycook23 · May 16, 2005

I've been searching threads and online reviews and my head is swimming....I'm also a bit late in getting on the ball, so some reservations might be hard to get.

My husband and I are going for a weekend getaway in a couple weeks. We'll be there from Friday late afternoon until Sunday early evening. His first trip there, my first in about 15 years. While it would be wrong to say that money is NO object, I'm willing to splurge here and there for "don't miss" dining experiences, but we'll have to balance some big budget meals with some more modest ones. My thoughts/plans so far:

Friday afternoon-arrive and hit Cafe Du Monde for treats.

Friday evening-late dinner somewhere (Brightsen's, Upperline, Bon Ton, open to any thougts/suggestions)

Sat morning-Mother's or Elizabeth's maybe (I know Elizabeth's has changed cooks/owners since most of the reviews I've read-has anybody been there recently?) Again, I'm open to ideas. I heard breakfast at Petunia's is also good.

Sat lunch.-Have 12:30 reservation at Galitoire's, but I may try to bump those back a bit to allow breakfast to digest.

Sat dinner-totally open to suggestions. Would ideally like a more moderate to inexpensive option to balance the cost of Galitiore's, but I don't know where we might be able to get in either.

Sun brunch-Jazz brunch at the Palace Cafe. I made reservations but now I'm second-guessing. Would another brunch option be a better choice? It seems that there are so many breakfast/brunch options I'm not sure what to do.

Sun late afternoon-grab mufelettas from Central Grocery and the Napoleon House to eat on the plane.

I really appreciate any input. Feel free to mention any musical/cultural, etc. things we should do to....I just don't want to come home wishing we had done this or that.

Thank you!

Jason Perlow · May 16, 2005

For friday or saturday dinner, you should definitely do Upperline. Without question. I've heard many good things about Gallatoires but also some not so good things. I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience at Upperline, and being an eGulleteer, you'll be treated like royalty.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31865

In addition to Upperline, Instead of Gallatoires that one night, I would strongly suggest Jacques Imos.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31892

I also would not leave the city without having the BBQ shirmp at Mr. B's.

Forget Palace Cafe and go to Commander's instead. Palace Cafe is not what it used to be.

Definitely Elizabeth's.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31861

The complete report from our last trip, including photos of the food we ate, are here:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=444710

happycook23 · May 16, 2005

For friday or saturday dinner, you should definitely do Upperline. Without question. I've heard many good things about Gallatoires but also some not so good things. I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience at Upperline, and being an eGulleteer, you'll be treated like royalty.
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31865
In addition to Upperline, Instead of Gallatoires that one night, I would strongly suggest Jacques Imos.
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31892
I also would not leave the city without having the BBQ shirmp at Mr. B's.
Forget Palace Cafe and go to Commander's instead. Palace Cafe is not what it used to be.
Definitely Elizabeth's.
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=31861
The complete report from our last trip, including photos of the food we ate, are here:
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=444710
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Jason-

Thank you for all of your suggestions thus far...and I must add how much I appreciated your detailed thread (with photos) documenting your delicious trip.

Unfortunately, Commander's Palace is booked solid for Sun. brunch. I can get a reservation for Sat. lunch, but then that knocks Elizabeth's out as an option because they're not open on Sundays, although Mother's is (I don't think I could do Elizabeth's for breakfast Sat. and then CP for lunch an hour later). So we could do Commander's on Sat and Mother's Sun and cancel the Palace Cafe.

I'll try to make a reservation for either Fri or Sat. night at Upperline, but they're closed today and tomorrow, so I can't call until Wed. to see if there's an opening.

I would like to include Galatoire's especially because I've heard raves about their oyster's rockefeller (which I enjoy greatly) but if others strongly advise against it, I'm open to changing my mind. If Iwent with the CP brunch Sat. I'd have to cancel the Sat. lunch at Galatoire's and try to move it to a dinner, which means I couldn't also fit in dinner at Upperline AND Jaques-Imo's.....so much food, so little TIME!

(I should also sheepishly admit that I'm not a big fan of shrimp-unless in cocktail sauce or fried, and I don't care for raw oysters-thus the omission of Mr. B's, Acme, Felix and the like)

Again, thank you for your input!

Edited May 17, 2005 by happycook23 (log)

Soup · May 16, 2005

Not sure if you have a rental car?

I second jason's suggestion about Mr. B's BBQ shrimp. I've been there over 5 times and have always order the shrimp. Never dissappoints. Love Mr. B's

You can't go to NOLA and not go to Commander's Palace on an eating trip. I love their dinners a lot more than the brunch.

For breakfast, try Morning Call if you have a rental car. Also out by Metairie are two restuarants. One over looks Lake Ponchatrain off of west end park road near lake end shore park area. Great crab and oyster and very reasonable prices (I just can't remember the name of the place). It is in the Orleans parish. You can also walk over the canal that divides orleans and jefferson parish on a foot bridge. You get to a great little bar with really good gumbo and shrimp dishes. Again really food a reasonable prices.

Soup.

Jason Perlow · May 16, 2005

(I should also sheepishly admit that I'm not a big fan of shrimp-unless in cocktail sauce or fried, and I don't care for raw oysters-thus the omission of Mr. B's, Acme, Felix and the like)

Whoa.. you picked the wrong time, and the wrong town not to like shrimp.. You'll be going at the very height of shrimp season.

happycook23 · May 16, 2005

(I should also sheepishly admit that I'm not a big fan of shrimp-unless in cocktail sauce or fried, and I don't care for raw oysters-thus the omission of Mr. B's, Acme, Felix and the like)
Whoa.. you picked the wrong time, and the wrong town not to like shrimp.. You'll be going at the very height of shrimp season.
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Now I feel badly....I'm sure we'll enjoy some peel & eat together and I know that my husband will sample and delight in many shrimp dishes.

Jason Perlow · May 16, 2005

Well, there's other stuff to eat, in the area of fish dishes and pork and chicken... but really, shellfish is where Cajun and Creole food really shines.

happycook23 · May 16, 2005

Well, there's other stuff to eat, in the area of fish dishes and pork and chicken... but really, shellfish is where Cajun and Creole food really shines.
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Well, I'm all about the crab, and scallops, and (cooked) oysters, and....I'm sure I won't go hungry

pterostyrax · May 16, 2005

Here are my recommendations.

The Cafe Du Monde is a must, particularly since your husband has not been to New Orleans before. For Friday dinner, make a reservation at Stella!, currently our favorite place to dine in New Orleans, and we've eaten at all of them many times over.

For Saturday breakfast, walk down Chartres street to Ursiline, cross over to the other side of Ursiline and take a left. About 1/4 of the way up the block you will come to a charming, out of the mainstream eatery called Croissant D'or that serves the best pastries in the French Quarter along with some very good coffee. An alternative is to take the St. Charles trolley all the way to the end of St. Charles and have breakfast at the Camellia Grill. You can't go wrong there either.

If you really want to go to Mother's (and it is a good place to eat), I would suggest doing it for Saturday lunch. It is their best meal of the day. As an alternative and one in which I would recommend even more highly, I would take a car if you are renting or a cab if not to Drago's off North Causeway Boulevard and get the chargrilled oysters for an appetizer and then the stuffed lobster or whole lobster (unbelievably cheap at $15.95 for a whole one). I had been trying to get my wife to eat oysters for 15 years to no avail. I got her to try one and she will now readily admit that it is the best single bite of food she has ever put in her mouth and now orders a dozen every time we go to New Orleans. We ALWAYS eat lunch at Drago's at least once when we are in New Orleans. The charbroiled oysters are a religious experience, and that is not an overstatement.

For Saturday dinner, I recommend Louis XVI. This is a really great restaurant that doesn't get much press. Even better, it has a coupon for buy one entree and get the second one for free, and we are talking about some seriously good entrees here. You can save some money for the other eateries here. The coupons can be obtained online at New Orleans coupons. You can also do a google search using "New Orleans coupons" to find other good deals such as a free drink at Margaritaville.

For Sunday brunch, see if you can snag a reservation at Commander's Palace and take the streetcar and then walk the few blocks to the restaurant. If you can't get reservations at a decent time (they can be VERY hard to get), try the brunch at the restaurant at the Mason Dupuy hotel - one of our favorites in the French Quarter. A final alternative is the Sunday brunch at the Court of the Two Sisters - very touristy, but the food is decent and sitting in the patio area provides you with a quintessential New Orleans ambience.

Mufalettas at Central Grocery is the perfect way to extend your New Orleans trip on the plane on the way back.

If you want to shop, take a taxi to Magazine street. There are literally hundreds of interesting shops over many blocks. For a more touristy experience, Riverwalk and the Jackson Brewery have a lot of shops as well.

As far as cultural experiences, the D Day museum is a must see. The aquarium is also a fairly interesting experience. However, my best suggestion would be to take a half day tour of the plantations on River Road - absolutely fascinating. We finally did this last year after 40 years of going to New Orleans. I can't believe we waited this long. Another possibility is one of the short tours of the Mississippi on one of the steamboats. Touristy, but interesting nevertheless.

bavila · May 16, 2005

If you're dinner plans aren't working, try Bayona. I personally like it more than Commander's Palace, perhaps for the atmosphere.

Jason -- do you prefer Mr. B's BBQ shrimp over Pascal's Manale?

Jason Perlow · May 16, 2005

I liked both versions, but I prefer Mr. B's.

happycook23 · May 17, 2005

Ok, so now I'm stuck....I feel like I'm cancelling more reservations then I'm keeping. I know that I want to try to get in at Upperline for sure (The food looks FANTASTIC), but I won't know if that's an option until Wed. afternoon when they open again.

Is Commander's Palace worth it if I can only get in for lunch on Sat.? The lunch menu looks pretty limited, and I'm feeling like my stomach could be put to better use elsewhere. I'd go for Elizabeth's for breakfast on Sat., but I'm wary about this "new ownership" mentioned on their site. If the former chef and pastry chef are both gone, is the quality still there?

Maybe I should just plan on a light breakfast somewhere Sat. morning and then stick with lunch at Galatoire's, or do I cancel at Galatoire's (all of the "it was pretentious" reviews are giving me pause-and I really don't want to have to dress for lunch) and opt for some other worthy choice (like the aforementioned Drago's).

Do I go for breakfast at Mother's Sunday, or should I keep it light for breakfast so that I can fit in another lunch somewhere more deserving (I don't think I could do breakfast at Mother's AND then have an appetite for a big lunch a couple hours later-but maybe I can).

and I'm at a complete loss over the remaining dinner option. There are about 7 places I want to go...Jacques-Imo's, Stella! Brightsen's, Bayona, Lilette, Dick & Jenny's all come to mind.

This is hard (and I don't want to call anywgere about dinner until I can get through to Upperline to see if I have a choice there for either night-JoAnn, if you're reading this...I'm begging, the food looks too good to miss!)

...and we're not renting a car-any place I should rule out for logistical reasons? I'm geographically challenged and wouldn't know if I was being illogical.

Edited May 17, 2005 by happycook23 (log)

pterostyrax · May 17, 2005

FYI, according to the Zagat survey based on food, decor, and service, the only New Orleans restaurants with a higher total score than Louis XVI are Upperline, Bayona, Peristyle, August, Commander's Palace, and New Orleans Grill (lowest to highest score). That is some pretty rarified company for fine eating in New Orleans. To get a dinner for two for the cost of one using the coupon seems like a no-brainer to me, unless you just don't enjoy French cuisine.

I am always at a loss as to why no one ever mentions Louis XVI on other travel, food, and wine forums when the "where should I eat in New Orleans" question is asked.

Also, if you enjoy wine with dinner, go to the Vieux Carre winestore on Chartres street (next to K-Paul's), buy some good wine there, and then take the wine with you to your restaurants. Corkage is generally a very reasonable $20/bottle for most of the better restaurants. You can save a LOT of money this way, but call ahead and make sure that they have a corkage fee just to be certain.

joiei · May 17, 2005

I would stay with the Commander's Palace reservation.

Without a car, I would not do anything in Metairie, the cab ride will be $20 each way.

Upperline if you can.

I have never been a big fan of Mother's, the line is mostly tourists who have read the same things you have. For me, the food was not worth that wait.

If you go with the light breakfast, the croissat D'or is perfect.

Your dinner options, wow, hard to pick from that list. Personally, I would pick Brightsen's for the food or Jacque-Imo for the local flavor.

Kim WB · May 17, 2005

I would include Commander's, no matter what other choices need to be altered. I'd choose Bayonna as my high end choice, and I'd skip Upperline entirely I think Galatoire's is a lovely choice for a first timer, in that it had very traditional food, in a very traditional atmosphere. I was there three weeks ago, for jazzfest, and heard great things about August, but was too entrenched in other plans to fit it in this trip...but a favorite bartender gave it accolades, and a Royal St. gallery owner that we dined with also raved about it. Cafe du Monde has a very limited menu, it should be used as a snack or li8ght breakfast, not a "real meal". Also, Brennan's is wonderful, I t's one of those places that has a "tourist" rap..but its lovely and very traditional as well.

happycook23 · May 18, 2005

Getting closer, but need a bit more help....

Ok, the current "new and improved" plan is:

Friday:

Arrive and hit CDM for munchies.

Upperline for dinner (got reservation-Yippie! Can't wait to meet JoAnn)

Saturday:

Have nibbles at Croissant d'or and late breakfast at Elizabeth's OR CD'o and then keep our lunch reservation at Commander's Palace (which I might try to move back a tad. Right now it's at 11:30 I think). The problem I'm having is that CP only serves "lunch" (not brunch) on Sat from what I understand, and their lunch menu looks pretty limited, unless I'm missing something. Elizabeth's looked great from the Perlow's report, but it has since changed chefs and owners and I have no idea if the food has maintained its quality.

Sat dinner- still haven't made a reservation. I'm torn between Brigtsen's and Bayona I think. Bayona is in the quarter (where our hotel is) but the Brigtsen menu looks fantastic-is the distance a hassle? Will transportation significantly up our overall dinner bill?

Sunday:

CDM or Croissant D'or for a snack (I've given up on Mother's-too much food).

Galitiore's for lunch-those oysters rockafeller better be darn good if I have to wrestle my husband into a jacket and tie for lunch.

Mufelettas to go for the plane.

So, thoughts about Sat breakfast/lunch (re. the specific Elizabeth's/CP concerns) or about Sat. dinner?

Any specific food recommendations from the restaurants/eateries we've "locked in"?

Thank you again so very much. I know that I'll be thinking of all you eGulleters as I savor every tasty bite on this trip.

Edited May 18, 2005 by happycook23 (log)

Mayhaw Man · May 18, 2005

Brigsten's and Bayona are both fine choices. Brigstens is in the Riverbend, all the way up St Charles to the end. I am not sure, but a cab should be about ten bucks from downtown.

I would push the Commander's res back a bit. It is worth the trouble, IMO. When the guy says, when you sit down, "would you like bread pudding souffle?" Just say yes. You'll be glad you did.

Galitoires is worth dressing up for. In fact, since I was a little boy, I have always thought that it was half the fun. I love the place, but there is, admittedly, something lost in translation when you are not either with a local or able to accept some very quirky traditions/habits that might be a bit off putting. But the food is great and I love the tradition of the place. So get him in a tie and go eat and watch the folks. It's great fun!

bavila · May 19, 2005

I was just at Elizabeth's a couple of weeks ago during Jazz Fest, and it was great. However, given that you won't have a car and you're trying to squeeze it in between two other restaurants, I'd say skip it this trip. It's in the Bywater District which was a significant cab ride for us coming from Downtown, and the scenery is not the best, especially compared to going from the Quarter through the Garden District to get to CP. This is New Orleans. You do not rush. It is just not done. Give yourself time to do some strolling and discovering between meals.

happycook23 · May 19, 2005

Thank you so much for the update on Elizabeth's. To clarify, if we opted to go there for breakfast, we would likely just go there in the morning, stuff ourselves, and not plan another "formal" meal until dinner (something might fly into our mouths as we explore the city, but that can't be helped). Whe I mapquested, it's 3.75 miles from our hotel, which doesn't "sound" like much of a trip, but maybe I'm being naive.

My instinct is to keep the reservation for lunch at CPs, and then have the option of deciding if we're in the mood for a light breakfast (Croissant d'Or) and a fancy lunch (CP) and fancy dinner (TBA) or if we'd rather have a BIG breakfast (Elizabeth's), a casual afternoon of exploring, and a fancy dinner (TBA), in which case I'd cancel the CP reservation.

Jason Perlow · May 19, 2005

Happycook, I'm actually going to be in New Orleans all next week (impromptu vacation) so if we find anything new we'll let you know. I plan on going to Bayonna, I haven't been yet. that being said, I think for the most part we are going to be concentrating on casual, "locals" type places this time around.

happycook23 · May 19, 2005

Happycook, I'm actually going to be in New Orleans all next week (impromptu vacation) so if we find anything new we'll let you know. I plan on going to Bayonna, I haven't been yet. that being said, I think for the most part we are going to be concentrating on casual, "locals" type places this time around.
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Woo hoo! Eat, drink, and be merry and I will be looking forward to your "report" (casual or otherwise).

happycook23 · May 19, 2005

Mayhaw Man-

I meant to ask about the "quirks" you mentioned that may be potentially off-putting to a non-local such as myself. I'd love to have a greater understanding of the customs/traditions (one so that I can appreciate them, and two so that I don't make any terrible slip-ups).

Mayhaw Man · May 19, 2005

Happycook, I'm actually going to be in New Orleans all next week (impromptu vacation) so if we find anything new we'll let you know. I plan on going to Bayonna, I haven't been yet. that being said, I think for the most part we are going to be concentrating on casual, "locals" type places this time around.
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Oh boy. Have you gotten your passport and your shots? This is pretty much another country and we have some very strict immigration standards. Please be prepared to show papers, proof of financial stability, and be ready to pass a language test.

Here is a question from the test:

Please describe where Commander's Palace is. You cannot use addresses or directional information including the words North, South, East, or West and you cannot say, exactly, that it is on the corner of x and x.

Good Luck.

TAPrice · May 19, 2005

Please describe where Commander's Palace is. You cannot use addresses or directional information including the words North, South, East, or West and you cannot say, exactly, that it is on the corner of x and x.
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Oh Brooks, that's too easy.

Walk outside your door and head uptown a few blocks until you hit the cemetery. Hang a left towards the river and follow the line of under-dressed tourist. It's the building with all the cabs in front.

Actually, I guess that only works from my house.

One little warning about Commander's lunch. They promise 25¢ martinis (or is it a dime?). If you call for any variation from the signatures martinis on the menu, however, you get charged full priced. Not a big deal, unless you drank four or five like I did one day.

Also, speaking as a recent immigrant, I can tell you that financial stability was never an issue when I applied for my papers.

Edited May 19, 2005 by TAPrice (log)

joiei · May 19, 2005

I would just ask the streetcar driver to let me know where to get off and which direction to walk. Most folks do not know what riverside and lakeside means. then grab one of those cabs back to the hotel. easy. Don't think I would show up in a t-shirt, shorts and flipflops though. :laugh:

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