France for French Food Dummies

[Bux]

...this is exactly the type of restaurant we try to ferret out, and the kind we most enjoy.  Would you be inclined to post the name?  :wow:

Le Dauphin, 167, rue Saint Honoré, off the place André Malraux in the 1ieme arrondissement. I suppose it's a special sort of ordinary place. The chef used to own a one star restaurant and an unstared bistrot in Biarritz. We may have been a bit disappointed because I had loved the bistrot and had been forced to cancel two reservations at the restaurant in Biarritz at the last minute and was hoping the Paris restaurant would be more than it was.

From our notes:

Piments del Piquillo with anchovies, sharply aligned in a square deep dish (one anchovy, one pepper strip, etc.) with an olive oil, balsamic vinegar and chopped shallot dressing, flanked by two pieces of toast with tapenade.

&

Mesclun with grilled cheese and bacon tartines.

The dressing in both salads was a bit vinegary. I think American's use less vinegar than the French, at least at the non haute cuisine level.

Followed by:

Casserole of pork cheeks with pork, mushrooms, potatoes, leeks and an incredible unctuous sauce full of small squares of the pork skin. The pork cheeks were sensational, although the pork rind might not be to everyone's tastes. There was an interesting and strong herbal flavor to the dish. The waiter said it was thyme and rosemary. We might have guessed something more unusual.

&

Cassoulet served in a small paella type of pan and prepared with large white beans, a slice of blood sausage, a slice of cured pork, a pork sausage, the duck drumstick and a dense tasty morsel that might have been duck gizzard or pork heart. the Cassoulet was browned under the broiler with bread crumbs on top. The beans could nave a tastier broth, but the meats were very good.

We were jet lagged and a bit under the weather. We skipped dessert.

Top marks to the joue de porc, which were worth going out of your way to eat. Overall, a restaurant not worth a star, but worth noting. The sort of place you'd love to have in the neighborhood at home. Large selection of half bottles.

[grahamtigg]

The chef used to own a one star restaurant and an unstared bistrot in Biarritz

That chef is Didier Ouddil who in the '80s did most of the cooking at Guerard's Eugene Les Bains. He opened his own hotel/restaurant Pain, Adour et Fantaisie in nearby Grenade-s-l'Adour. We enjoyed an outstanding meal there in November 1992, memorable in that we were dining alone with Didier cooking for us personally - no surprise that he moved on. Today it's a one star restaurant with Philippe Garret at the stoves. He was a second to Didier at one time. Small world.

[jordyn]

Okay.  My itinerary is taking shape.  It turns out I'll be moving a bit more than I had originally hoped, but it will be fun.  I will see a lot of France.  So far, here's what I know.

June 15: Paris.  Lunch probably at Brasserie Bofinger; dinner at L'Astrance.

June 16: Fly to Geneva.  Get car.  Drive around, end up in Annecy.  Dinner at L'Auberge de l'Eridan.  Stay nearby.

June 17: I was hoping to end up at Auberge et Clos des Cimes, but they seem to be full all week, at least according to the online booking engine.  I will try to call them tomorrow and see if I have better luck that way.  Any suggested alternatives?

June 18:  Maybe end up in Avignon.  Or somewhere.  I'm thinking lunch at Pic might be a good idea on the way South.

June 19: No idea.

June 20: End up in Laguiole.  Eat/stay at Michel Bras.

June 21: End up in Puymirol.  Eat/stay at Les Loges de l'Aubergade.  Maybe lunch at Le Vieux Pont.

June 22:  I have no idea.  John Whiting's post today has me looking to some of his recommended places in Dordogne.

June 23: Drive to Bordeaux.  Drop off car.  Fly to Paris and eventually home.

So, clearly I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to Provence.  If people have recommendations for things to do along the way, or what to do in Provence, or bad horrible ideas somewhere along the way, I'd appreciate feedback.

And this is where I'd love to hear about any quaint, charming, or otherwise magical or good-to-visit but not particularly famous places along the way.  Or non-food experiences that I ought not to miss.

[robert brown]

Jordyn, just for a start before I sit down for dinner; unless you are a fan of Belle Epoque interiors, Bofinger is rather mediocre last I knew. What do some of you others think?

[jordyn]

Jordyn, just for a start before I sit down for dinner; unless you are a fan of Belle Epoque interiors, Bofinger is rather mediocre last I knew. What do some of you others think?

Interesting.  A friend of mine who usually has good judgement in these matters recommended Bofinger highly.  So I too would be curious to hear what others think.

[lizziee]

On an earlier thread, I had given advice to John Whiting about one of our most favorite places -  Le Chaufourg in Sourzac, about 38 Km from Bergerac. It is owned by Georges Dambier, a dapper seventy year old who was a high profile fashion photographer in Paris. He and his cousin, Agnes run the inn themselves. George is the most gracious host who will regale you with wonderful stories. He will steer you to little known sights of the region. He has created at his

family's country home the most romantic, beautiful country inn. There are 10 guest rooms, an attractive swimming pool and an outside pool house. We stayed in Chambre de Marie (presently about $220. per night). It has white cathedral beams over the bed, a study, a giant bathtub, huge closets, television and air-conditioning. This is an inn that is at once refined, elegant but also rustic. He is now serving dinner in the main parlor, a beautifully furnished room with a large fireplace. When we were there you had to specially order a dinner (which we did), but as I mentioned he now serves a short menu at dinner featuring local specialities. When we had dinner, it was just my husband and I. (Mother's day was the day before and everyone had left the inn that afternoon.) George had set up a beautiful table, soft jazz was playing, lights were dim, fire in the fireplace and his dogs nestled at our feet. (Bagdad Cafe, the poodle was especially receptive.) I don't have my notes on the exact dinner we ate that night, but my notes say that it was a completely satisfying experience emphasizing local ingredients and local wines.

Absolutely call Auberge et Clos des Cimes. On-line booking is just not that reliable. You can either call or fax them.

[cabrales]

Jordyn, just for a start before I sit down for dinner; unless you are a fan of Belle Epoque interiors, Bofinger is rather mediocre last I knew. What do some of you others think?

Interesting.  A friend of mine who usually has good judgement in these matters recommended Bofinger highly.  So I too would be curious to hear what others think.

jordyn -- I've heard about Bofinger being not worthwhile to visit, but have never sampled its cuisine.

For lunch, you have many reasonable-value options -- including (1) two-starred Jamin which I recently wrote about on the France board in a thread by that name (not inspired cooking, but not bad for a low priced prix fixe menu -- please check with restaurant before reliance; chef is Robuchon pupil), (2) one-starred Chiberta (former sous-chef to Senderens; I liked the cuisine -- call regarding lunch menus if interested), (3) 71 euros for a three-course prix fixe lunch at three-starred Grand Vefour (note the cuisine did not please me, and you may be resting up for ensuing meals), (4) La Regelade, where lunch is in the 30-40 euro range and which I liked (this restaurant has been the subject of considerable debate -- see the thread with the reference to Piss Pauvre and bistros in the France forum), or (5) one-starred Hiramatsu -- check two threads by same name under France forum (recent meal was very disappointing; however, a less than 50 euro business lunch or "menu d'affaires" might be available and this restaurant has received considerable praise by a number of French and US restaurant reviewers)  

[Bux]

I'd agree with Lizzee about online booking.

Are you interested in eaux-de-vie? There's a wonderful artisanal distiller a bit south of Agen in Moncaut--Saint Gayrand. We were there years ago, 1996 to be exact. I expect he's still in operation. Telephone 05.53.97.13.83

[lizziee]

Cabrales,

Agree with everything you said except for Jordyn the problem is Sat. lunch on June 15. Your suggestions?

[Gavin Convery]

Jordyn,

You're certainly going to be packing in a lot on this trip - I guess you'll be driving but what you must remember is that although a lot of France's roads are excellent, you are going to be doing a lot of cross-country driving without the benefit of motorways. Getting to Michel Bras is particularly fiddly and the trip to L'Aubergade is also going to be mostly cross-country. On the other hand both are worth it - I certainly had one of the defining moments of my culinary education at L'Aubergade (although it wasn't so good when I returned there). Both places are lovely to stay in, especially Bras if you delight in Modernist architecture.

For your stay in the Dordogne, I can recommend Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat, no stars (but a new chef and I would imagine they will regain next year), the hotel is also very comfortable. It is an easy journey from Puymirol and then a direct road via Bergerac to Bordeaux. There is also a 2 star a l'Eyzies-de-Tayac (sp?) but I don't recall the name and I haven't been there.

[grahamtigg]

I'm going to suggest Le Mimosa at St. Guiraud for 19th June because that's exactly what we'd do with a night between Provence and Bras. You're at the foothills of the Cevennes and the Larzac plateau there so take in some fine scenery before dinner. You can stay in the restaurant's hotel (in the next village) and it's less than 3 1/2 hours drive time from Laguiole but allow longer to take in some back roads.

I've no idea what your appetite is like, but I would say three consecutive meals in Bras, Vieux Pont and Pymerol would be too much plus Belcastel to Puymerol is a fair way and I would urge you to take a leisurely scenic route through the hills and valleys.

There's another recent thread on Avignon of course.

Hopefully we're off to France Thursday morning so enjoy your trip.

[Beachfan]

Jordyn, just for a start before I sit down for dinner; unless you are a fan of Belle Epoque interiors, Bofinger is rather mediocre last I knew. What do some of you others think?

Interesting.  A friend of mine who usually has good judgement in these matters recommended Bofinger highly.  So I too would be curious to hear what others think.

jordyn -- I've heard about Bofinger being not worthwhile to visit, but have never sampled its cuisine.

For lunch, you have many reasonable-value options -- including (3) 71 euros for a three-course prix fixe lunch at three-starred Grand Vefour (note the cuisine did not please me, and you may be resting up for ensuing meals),

I absolutely loved Le Grand Vefour for lunch on my last trip.  It's my first food priority on my next trip.  2nd best for food, best overall among the handful of 3 star lunches in Paris that I've had.

I stayed away from Bofinger for years based on similar comments I had heard.  I went last trip and loved it.  However, my plan was different than for most restaurants and played to the best of Bofinger.

1) I love Belle Epoque

2) I wanted oysters

3) I had a big lunch and wanted a late supper after going to the Louvre

4) The Marais at night is fun.

So, to the point, I would not go for lunch.  I would go when the idea of no supper is a little too little, and oysters late at night sounds good.  If that's your mindset, you'll love Boffinger.

[cabrales]

Agree with everything you said except for Jordyn the problem is Sat. lunch on June 15. Your suggestions?

Liz -- Good point. That eliminates Grand Vefour.

Jordyn -- I am uncertain whether Chiberta, Hiramatsu, La Regelade or Jamin would be open for lunch on a Saturday -- check if interested. L'Angle de Faubourg (bistro-like restaurant established by Vrinat, of Taillevent) is alright, and might be open Saturday. It is rather inexpensive, and is a new one-star. That the day in question is a Saturday also requires checking re: availability of specially priced menus, to the extent you are interested in them.  

[lizziee]

Cabrales and Beachfan,

Jordyn is looking for a restaurant for lunch on Saturday, June 15th. Saturday is always a problem in Paris as so many restaurants are closed. Le Grand Vefour, Jamin, Chiberta and La Regalade are all closed. I am not sure about Hiramatsu. Options are generally a bistro or one of the "big deal" hotels ie. Le Cinq or Le Bristol. Benoit can be fun - L'Ami Louis an interesting experience - food very iffy, but certainly an expensive, quirky Paris institution.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I just had dinner at Le Dauphin when I was in Paris at the beginning of April. Having read about Didier Ouddil for many years (he used to be number two to Guerard I believe,) the Gault Millau would always rave about his cooking. And then a few years ago Le Petit Leby named Le Dauphin the Parisian bistro of the year. So I was looking for a place for Sunday dinner and Le Dauphin is one of the few places open. Dinner was fine enough, good enough to go back if I needed a place for Sunday dinner but I thought the quality was somewhat below my expectations based on what I had read. One of the things the restaurant features are various mixed grill platters. I had a mixed grill of various fish. Wine list was better stocked and better priced than most. I thought the atmosphere a little dreary. There are dozens of places I would reserve at before going back there.

Margaret - The famous Lievre Royale in Paris is at the classic bistro A Souseyrac in the 11th arr. on rue Faidherbe about 6 blocks behind the Bastille. I know they only serve it one night a week. It's either on Thursday or Friday but I can't remember offhand. I know one night is cassoulet and one lievre. That area of the 11th is totally residential but manages to have Souseyrac, the excellent Moroccan restaurant Mansouria on the same block, and the excellent bistro Le Chardenoux is within spitting distance as are the fun wine bars Jacques Melac (superior Cantal omelet) and Le Passage which not only has a staggering list of reasonably priced wines from the Rhone, but features artisinal andouilettes from 6-7 different producers around France.

Bofinger used to be one of my favorite places being the best brasserie in Paris by far. But then it was taken over by the Brasserie Flo chain and the quality slipped. I did have a good meal there a few years ago and it seemed that management had made a decision to operate Bofinger seperate from the chain. But I wouldn't take the chance, given that there are so many other good places to eat. I mean one can walk around the corner to Baracane and have a simple but delightful meal.

As long as people are putting in their two centimes for good places, the best buy in Paris is at Willi's Wine Bar on rue des Petitis-Champs just down the road from Place Victoire and across the street from the Bibliotheque National. For those who don't know the history, Mark Williamson and his partner Tim Johnston (Brits) opened this wine bar dedicated to the wines of the Rhone Valley many years ago. Since then they have expanded their little empire to include the wine bar Juveniles around the corner on rue Richelieu, and the more upscale Maceo (named after the James Brown saxophone player Maceo Parker) which is a few shops down from Willi's. If you are a lover of Rhone wines I wouldn't walk, I would run to Willi's. You will find a list of wines that will knock your socks off all being sold at reasonable prices and you will find food that is much better than it should be given the fact that wine is the draw. They also have a good list of wines by the glass and a seat at the bar is a great place for single dinners to have a meal. Also good for English speakers because the place is run by Brits and Sophie the quirky British manager will go out of her way to make you feel like you are at home. A lunch I had there on a sleepy Monday in May of 1999, when all of Paris was shut (except Willi's) for a holiday still brings back fond memories. We ate lovely slabs of garlicky tuna with a simple julienne of vegetables and drank a bottle of 1991 Jamet Cote Rotie (one of the great bottles of CR over the last 20 years) which they were selling for $65.

Another place I enjoy in that neighborhood is Chez Georges on rue Mail just off the place Victoire. It's an old school bistro, as simple as they come. Nothing there will knock your socks off but if you are looking for comfort food you can get yourself an honest pair of garlicky sauteed lamb chops and a perfectly browned potato gratin. Also an excellent list of Burgundys and a few Rhone wines. I had the wisdom to order a bottle of Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage there one night (it cost something silly like $30) and I became the chef/owners friend for life.

[Bux]

However, my plan was different than for most restaurants

...

I would go when the idea of no supper is a little too little, and oysters late at night sounds good.  If that's your mindset, you'll love Boffinger.

Brasseries are wonderful institutions, even when they are not wonderful restaurants. I think they are often suited to lunch as well as supper, but they are special in and of themselves and best enjoyed for what they are. Oysters are the perfect brasserie food. As is choucroute.

[lizziee]

Jordyn,

I give you credit - somehow you have incorporated the thoughts of a lot of opinionated people and made it work for you.

Some additional thoughts which I hope will be helpful.

Room at Bras - we had room number 11 - it was the last room overlooking the valley and hills of Laguiole - a view of 280 degrees. Spectacular does not do it justice - very sparse, contemporary decor, but the view becomes the decor/surroundings. If you have time do take Bras's suggested hike - it is not long, but helps you understand his love affair with the area.

Breakfast at Bras - A wooden basket is sent decorated with flowers, a thermos of coffee, juice, creme caramel, honey, jam, bread, pastries, another basket of specialties of Laguiole, a cake filled with fruit, yogurt with strawberries and a selection of local cheese. Absolutely wonderful.

Room at Clos des Cimes - we stayed in room # 18 - another room that brought the outside in. Again, I would recommend a walk along a well-marked path. Like Bras, Regis Marcon is very much tied to the land and it gives you a sense of his affinity for his area.

Le Mimosa - I agree with Graham Tigg - a real find in Saint Guiraud owned by David and Bridgett Pugh. He is English (front of the house)and she ( the chef) is from New Zealand. She used to be a ballerina, but stopped dancing about 16 years ago and settled in Saint Guiraud because they loved the vineyards and the people. When we were there, Bridgett constructed our menu. One dish with squid and oriental spices very reminiscent of a dish we have had at Slanted Door. In talking with Bridgett, she had eaten at the Slanted Door the year before. The Pughs are friends of Kermit Lynch (he was the one who invited them to SFO)- Kermit, according to Bridgett, comes in the area trying to pry barrels from the local vintners.

Puymirol - I have long notes on that. They are on the French board under 4 great meals at Puymirol. One of the nicest rooms is Room 1410 - there is a huge terrace right outside the room which adds a huge amount of extra space.

Pic - Our first meal in the late 90's was fair (Annie Pic took over for her father when he died suddenly in 1995). As Pic is the perfect stopover on the way down south, we decided to try it again. This time, in 2000, the meal was wonderful. We had a cold seafood salad of seven different types of seafood - each piece of seafood had its own sauce. Between each piece of fish, there was a little salad, each with a different dressing. Next was their specialty - filet de loup au caviar oscietre royal - bass was moist and tender, every inch covered with caviar, surrounded by a lighter version of hollandaise. Next we had a granite done from a wine base of Rhone wine. Next aile de pigeon de la Drome en croute de noix, jus legerement infuse aux cinq epices (pigeon in a walnut shell). Of course cheese and 3 small desserts (I don't have notes on those)Wines for the evening were a white '98 Beaucastle Vielle Vignes and a '94 Hermitage La Chapelle Jaboulet.

In Annecy, a real find for lunch is Clos des Sens. It just received a star from Michelin in 2000 and it is definitely worth a stop.

Hope this helps.

[Bux]

Should you get a room at Regis Marcon's place and spend a night there, by all means ask for a scrambled egg in the morning. With luck, you'll get one with truffles and mushrooms as we did. There's a nice, though not particualrly lavish breakfast buffet and blessedly missing is a tray of scrambled eggs over a burner. You are invited however to order an egg and it will come directly from the kitchen. With a bit of smoked salmon from the buffet and other assorted goodies to round out the meal, it was a memorable breakfast.