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Curing and preserving meats


CHARCUTIER

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Please forgive me if this already exists, but I would like to set up a thread concerning all aspects of curing and preserving meat. This is an area in which experience seems to be as important as technique, so I for one would certainly benefit from hearing about other people's experiments. Just to get the ball rolling, I have made pancetta-style bacon rather succesfully, and french-style salami rather less succesfully. I also regularly make rillettes, but I'm not sure that counts. My next project is a parma-style ham. Wish me luck.

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I am afraid I can't add too much to a discussion of curing...yet. However, I think it is a very interesting subject, and I think there are others here who do as well. So far, my experience is limited to air-dried duck breasts made with instructions from an eGullet thread, but I want to try more. So, how did you make the pancetta? Any suggestions on books, etc.? Maybe if you post a recipe, we can entice some more folks out of the woodwork.

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Can't add much as I have never cured any meats yet, bu tI own the book Cooking by Hand by Paul Bertolli and it has a great section on curing meats, with pretty detailed instructions...worth checking out since it can be obtaine cheap from Ebay and such. It's not the bible on such a title but he covers some basics as well as prosciutto and others

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I tried two pork cures earlier this year. A half loin and a whole leg, both boneless.

I brined for a few days to make sure nitrite and erythobyte got all the way in, for safety's sake, then left them in a salt/maple sugar rub for a month. Temp was 32-40F.

They were smoked in hardwood (mostly maple) a few weeks ago, as slowly as I could, but around 200 F.

I am using the loin, sliced in Canadian Bacon style, for breakfasts and sandwiches. It is very good, slightly sweet-smoked, and slightly saltier than commercial Can. bacon. But it is also slightly dry, like most smoked loins. I think the salt does this.

The ham is still aging, and I have tried it yet. I'm hoping it is moister than the loin.

Next time, I'll probably brine them, on the bone, with a little less salt.

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I am very interested in charcuterie and have made a few different items (sausages, confit, smoked pork products). A ham is something I have been wanting to try, but don't have the facilities for at home yet.

Out of curiousity, what kind of facility do you have available to you for the long-aging of the ham? Do you like in an appropriate climate to hang the ham naturally or do you have a temperature and humidty controlled room?

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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I have no special facilities, other than a very cool cellar. It will remain between 35-45F until late May. The ham is wrapped in cheesecloth, held in a paper bag , and hanging from the ceiling.

I am going to look at it this weekend, and decide whether to oven roast it for Easter, or continue to age it until summer. I don't really have facities for long term aging.

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I've done bacon using the Alton Brown method and a couple of different smokers, as well as jerky using a home dehydrator. For Christmas gifts this year, I'm thinking of making a few country hams for some people special to my heart...

I'll post more when I get a few more minutes to myself.

I always attempt to have the ratio of my intelligence to weight ratio be greater than one. But, I am from the midwest. I am sure you can now understand my life's conundrum.

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I've taken two charcuterie classes at Culinary Communion here in Seattle, which are my only meat-curing experiences. I keep meaning to make some more bacon, but my weekends have been filling up lately...

At the first class late last fall. There wasn't a ton of actual curing -- we made a bunch of fresh sausages -- but we did smoke a side of bacon that the chef-instructor had pre-cured. (He explained the curing process, too, so we could do it ourselves.)

Mr. Scorched and I took another charcuterie class there a couple of months ago. We made a fair number of cured and/or smoked meats this time around: kielbasa, spanish chorizo, andouille, tasso, bacon, pancetta, etc. The bacon was excellent, the chorizo very good, and the pancetta a bit to wangy for my preference. It'll be good in cooking, but it's just too gamey for eating on its own.

I look forward to trying my hand at making some of these at home once the schedule clears out a bit.

Edited to add: I also make duck confit a few times a year... which I suppose is technically preserving, even though it's consumed almost as soon as it's aged. :)

~A

Edited by ScorchedPalate (log)

Anita Crotty travel writer & mexican-food addictwww.marriedwithdinner.com

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I live in a house without a basement and have been looking for ways to do both raw cured as well as smoked products.

For long aging, I have read that around 55-60 deg F and 75% humidity is perfect. A tried some air-cured duck hams in my 50 bottle Eurocave and it generally worked well, although the humidity couldn't be controlled (a few spoiled, but most were ok.) I do not want to invest in a larger unit and have been considering putting in a wine cellar, but ommitting the racks and putting bars in the ceiling from which to hang hams and sausages (i.e. on hooks or string). I know most of the cellar compressors have humidity as well as temperature control.

As far as smokers go, I have smoked a number of items on the side chamber of my brinkman grill, but am looking for an electric smoker so I can do more controlled smoking over time. I am looking at a Bradley Smoker, although over time I would want to get a larger (probably small commercial) model. Anyone have other recommendations on a sub-$1,000 smoker that could handle a large ham?

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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We used a (borrowed) Bradley at class to make one of the bacon batches. We also did half in the regular drum-style smoker with an external firebox. The traditionally smoked bacon was good, but it was more cooked than smoked. The stuff from the Bradley, though, was gorgeous -- great color, not oversmoked or cooked, plenty of good fat left to render. I fantasize about having one of my own....

Edited by ScorchedPalate (log)

Anita Crotty travel writer & mexican-food addictwww.marriedwithdinner.com

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Anyone have other recommendations on a sub-$1,000 smoker that could handle a large ham?

Check out the cookshack model 008. It is very easy to use (electric, so just put in the wood chunks, set the temp, plug it in, and let it go), produces awesome results, and stays on temp very well. You can get one for under $500.

He don't mix meat and dairy,

He don't eat humble pie,

So sing a miserere

And hang the bastard high!

- Richard Wilbur and John LaTouche from Candide

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  • 3 months later...

What type of curing are you looking to do? I've made Bresaola, Tesa (like pancetta and easy to make), am currently dry curing a ham. I am just beginning to learn like you but am willing to share what I am learning, reading and doing. I'd also be interested in other recipes for these and other items. There is also another forum I have been readying that has outstanding information on regarding curing of meats and making sausages I can let you know about. Just let me know what you are looking to do.

Regarding the humidity and Temp - my research has also stated that the temp/R.H. you are looking for runs around 50 to 60 F and 70% R.H. is what you are looking for, that said, I just cured my first Bresaola in a temp ranging from 65 to 70 F and R.H. of 63% to 70% and it turned out fantastic. Even had a butcher so it could be sold, but I am doing it again now to make sure it wasn't a SNAFU on my part...smile....I have about 15 books dedicated to this or with significant chapters, so if you need info, I am willing to look it up.

Cheers,

Ryan

First say to yourself what you would be; and then do what you have to do.

- Epictetus

Ryan Propst

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I don't know if this counts, but...I just cured a side of salmon. It is a snap. I used a very basic cure of salt, sugar, dill and a little cognac. I weighed it down in the fridge for three days. I do have a big smoker, but not one capable of low temperature smoking. I smoked it on the stove top for only a few minutes and then let the smoke relax a little by resting it in the fridge for a day. It turned out very well.

Once duck season starts, I am going to play with some cured breasts and duck pastrami, and a little confit.

My smoker is a big New Bransfels tank type. I can certainly smoke BBQ at 200' with no problem, but true cold smoking is going to be a problem. I am trying to come up with some strategery for this. I was thinking of attatching pipe to the chimney and running it into an ice cooler full of ice and then into another chamber which would hold the fish. Any ideas?

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  • 1 month later...

I spent the last year on my own meat-curing adventure. Specifically, I made a prosciutto under the guidance of Armandino Batali at Salumi in Seattle. Details and photos are available in this thread.

Edited by vengroff (log)

Chief Scientist / Amateur Cook

MadVal, Seattle, WA

Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code

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  I can certainly smoke BBQ at 200' with no problem, but true cold smoking is going to be a problem.  I am trying to come up with some strategery for this.  I was thinking of attatching pipe to the chimney and running it into an ice cooler full of ice and then into another chamber which would hold the fish.  Any ideas?

That's pretty much the way to do it -- produce the smoke in one vessel, then transport it via a chimney to another vessel which holds the food -- and at some point in between have the smoke ice cooled. it wouldnt have to be through a cooler of ice, but if the ice was cooling the pipe then the smoke would cool down as well.

Rico

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I currently have a small (picnic ham) "prosciutto" hanging in my garage fridge. I made it following basically this recipe. It looks very promising so far and it should be ready to slice into in about 2 weeks. I will post some pictures and maybe an adabted recipe then. I am keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that my two month wait will be worth it. This is my first try doing something like this and if it works out I will shoot for a bigger ham next time around.

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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  • 2 weeks later...

My homemade Proscuitto-style ham was sliced into, and for a first time try it was pretty good. I can see how a few things might need to be changed for the next go around. The parts closer to the skin were a little too dry and chewy, so a good olive oil rub every week or so might help that. Also using the picnic ham makes for a ham with more sinew in it, so maybe...just maybe I might have the guts to do an actual leg in the future. Here are some pics, I served it as an antipasto on top of homemade bread and a drizzle of olive oil. It was quiet a hit.

gallery_5404_94_312084.jpg

gallery_5404_94_312971.jpg

Elie

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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hey, i just ordered one from americasbestbbq.com for 397 with free shipping and 0 tax. awesome deal.

Anyone have other recommendations on a sub-$1,000 smoker that could handle a large ham?

Check out the cookshack model 008. It is very easy to use (electric, so just put in the wood chunks, set the temp, plug it in, and let it go), produces awesome results, and stays on temp very well. You can get one for under $500.

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I have gathered recipes from a number of different cookbooks. Most cookbooks have just a few recipes. The best charcuterie reference I have found thusfar is the Professional Charcuterie Series.

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

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