Fruit Dishes

[Simon Majumdar]

I had a conversation with someone last night about the use of fruit in Indian food and it was very difficult to come up with more than a few dishes.

In Latin food, the use of hot chilli is balanced with the use of fruit in salsas etc but this is not the case in my knowledge of Indian dishes.  Where fruit is used it almost fuels the fire not calms it ( chutneys, pickles etc )

Desserts too seem almost entirley milk and sugar based.

I have scoured the net looking for recipes but can't seem to find anything.  Am I really missing a trick?

S

[Suvir Saran]

1) Jardaaloo murgh - Apricot chicken

2) Aloo bukhaare kaa ghost - lamb in plum sauce

3) Panna - mango sweet, sour and spicy drink

4) Lucknowi Khatee Daal - Sour lentils from Lucknow - with whole lemons

5) Tarbooz kee Sabzi - Watermelon Curry

6) Kele ke Parsinde - Green Banana Curry

7) Mango Chutney of course

8) Sweet and Sour very mild Loquat Chutney

9) Aam kee Launji - Sweet and Sour Green Mango Condiment

I am in Singapore now.  Will write in more detail later.. these come to my mind very quickly.  There are many recipes found at least in Northern Indian hilly areas in which fruits are used.  

Hope the above list will be of some help to you.

[cabrales]

I'd be interested in hearing about the use of banana leaves to wrap fish and other items. Is that utilized in Indian and/or other Asian cuisines? For those who have sampled a dish with banana leaf effects, what are the effects and are they pronounced?  

[ajay]

1) Jardaaloo murgh - Apricot chicken

2) Aloo bukhaare kaa ghost - lamb in plum sauce

3) Panna - mango sweet, sour and spicy drink

4) Lucknowi Khatee Daal - Sour lentils from Lucknow - with whole lemons

5) Tarbooz kee Sabzi - Watermelon Curry

6) Kele ke Parsinde - Green Banana Curry

7) Mango Chutney of course

8) Sweet and Sour very mild Loquat Chutney

9) Aam kee Launji - Sweet and Sour Green Mango Condiment

I am in Singapore now.  Will write in more detail later.. these come to my mind very quickly.  There are many recipes found at least in Northern Indian hilly areas in which fruits are used.  

Suvir,

I always considered myself as one who understands, or at least has broad experience in Indian cuisine.  However, with the exception of Mango Chutney, I don't believe that I've ever encountered any of the dishes you have mentioned.  [i'd be interested to hear about some others that didn't pop into your head on the spur of the moment!]

Some recipes would be much appreciated.  But I would prefer even more advice on where I can sample (preferably in New York, but I'll settle for anywhere) such dishes.  

This thread coupeled with our earlier discussion of Indian desserts (where I also believed fruit was an absent element) have conclusively demonstrated that I have much to learn about Indian cuisine, and I look forward to the lessons,hopefully with some tastes along the way

[Suvir Saran]

Ajay,

You are such a smooth talker.  The recipes are in my head and in my cook books to come.

My students learn them in my classes and most cannot be found in restaurants at least in NYC.  I actually had one of the above mentioned dishes in Delhi just 10 days ago.  I am being secretive since I have worked hard to collect these recipes and would hate to see them written before my cook book comes out.

Maybe I can do a dinner in NYC and have you come taste some of them.  India is very diverse.  This last trip to India that ended just a few days ago, showed me how little I know of India.  There is never enough discovered in that land.  It is a land of many secrets and hidden tales.

I will speak about some of them when I am back.  And keep up with your own postings.  This site does very well with people like you and the rest that post here.  We are lucky to have you all.  And especially the India board.  Thanks for your flattery.  

Now I am headed to a tasting at one of Singapores special restaurants.

[Suvir Saran]

The Loquat Chutney recipe was featured in LA Times.  Check their web site.

[anil]

The use of fruits in cooking varies from region to region. In around middle Maharastra

(Nagpur area) half-ripened mangoes are used to cook seasonal vegetables.

Useage of dry fruits is common in Magadh (sp?), Kashmiri, and Rajasthani dishes.

In the south, bananas dominate. Of course not to mention jaggery and khajur based rotlas.

I'm trying to jog my old-foggy-memory of trips I took decades ago in the deep south......

I will update this as I remember more  

[Suvir Saran]

Unripened and half ripened mangoes are used across most of north, central, western and southern India.  I have not gone to Calcutta so have no clue how they use fruit there.

When I was young and lived in Nagpur, green mangoes were used by my mother in many northern dishes and by the locals to make all kinds of dishes.  Chutneys, drinks, vegetables and in curries.

This recent trip to India Panditji made each day the traditional mint and green mango chuteny.  We drank Panna and had chaats with green mango sliced in it.  Of course achaars.  And in our home they make fresh achaar weekly that lasts only a few days.  And then there is the Launji t hat is like a sweet and sour chutney that I love.  I could have that every day.

In Kashmir and Himaachal the locals use fruits in many ways.  Chutneys, curries and also paired with meats.  See Julie Sahnis Classic Indian Cooking and you will find a recipe for Apricot Chicken.  

Fruits are used in many and amazing ways in Indian cooking.  There are many recipes that have never been written in books and cooked at restaurant and other professional kitchens.  I have an aunt that has a manuscript she has prepared but not shared ever, that is full of recipes from regions of India that use fruit.  The onus is on me to come to India and work with her for a few months to get those formed into a book.  I will do that in the next few years, I hope.

Anil, keep sharing with us ways in which you have seen fruits used.  I look forward to finding out what you have tasted.  YOu always have great stuff to share.

I had a great Baklava in Sinagpore last night that had a filling of dried figs and dates in addition to pistachios.  They were the best beggars purses I have ever had.  And also tasted a great Lavender Parfait.  I was in heaven.

[Jinmyo]

I'd be interested in hearing about the use of banana leaves to wrap fish and other items. Is that utilized in Indian and/or other Asian cuisines? For those who have sampled a dish with banana leaf effects, what are the effects and are they pronounced?  

Wrapping in banana leaves is extensive in Southeast Asia. I've done lontong (a Javanese rice dish involving rolling up cooked rice, boiling it until it sets, cooling, and slicing it) with banana leaves but didn't find it tasted much differently from when I used tin foil.

[wingding]

I find that food steamed in banana leaves has a very slight"green' flavor,but it's use is more a practical issue.They are available,durable,and biodegradable!In southern India,our food was sometimes served on banana leaves-when you're finished,you can wrap the whole thing up,and throw it away.

[cabrales]

I find that food steamed in banana leaves has a very slight"green' flavor,but it's use is more a practical issue.They are available,durable,and biodegradable!

wingding & Jinmyo -- Thanks for the input.  I was curious because, in Chinese cuisine, there is a dish involving the wrapping of fried rice in lotus leaves. The resulting bundle is steamed with the lotus leaves both adding special flavor to the rice, and protecting the moisture of it. While this dish has to be properly executed to offer something different from "normal" fried rice, when it is done well (e.g., at Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong), it is delicious.  

[Jinmyo]

The banana leaves available to me were frozen, I should have added.

[Liza]

Suvir,

I look forward to sampling those recipes from your forthcoming cookbook! Let us know, and we can all start stocking our larders in advance. They all sound delicious.

Liza

[ajay]

I've often experienced unripened and half ripened mangos as pickles or garnishes, but never in the preparation of a vegetable dish.  Chats with mangos I can imagine but have never attempted.  I think a mint and mango chutney would be fabulous, and will try that in the future.  But, again, I look forward to a discussion and recipes involving the use of fruit, especially mangos, in curries.

In Gujrat, we make a sweet and hot pickle known as gord kerrie from mangos.

I was also told that a dish can be prepared from the 'whiter' parts (I can't describe it any better) of a watermelon.  However, all of the members of my family who have sampled said dish agree that it is not much to get excited about.

Suvir,

The lavendar parfait sounds excellent.  I don't why but I am always particularly excited when flowers are included in my dessert.  There's something incredibly exciting, almost sensual about it.  I've often heard of Flowers (here I'm thinking primarily of rose and hibiscus) used in flavoring Indian desserts.  I've always felt a particularly good cook could push this envelope.  Alas, I am not such a cook, and my mother and grandmother scoff at the notion.  So I am left with only theories  

ps I couldn't find the loquat chutney recipe on the LA Times website.  Clickety anyone?

[Jinmyo]

Sorry, I have no clickety.

I thought I would mention that I've recently "discovered" Vietnamese pickled mango. Wonderful. None of the, uhhh, softness [i mean sliminess! No, no. Be nice. Stay with "softness".] I associate with mango. A simple brine, really, but what a difference.

It works well with gari (pickled ginger), takuan (daikon), and kimchee (cabbage) as well.

I often find chutneys too thick and so thin mine out a bit, by the way.

[SobaAddict70]

These two are from Yamuna Devi's "The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking".  Great book, I've made quite a few things from it -- I recommend it even if you're not a vegetarian.

Baked Bananas Stuffed with Tamarind-Flavored Coconut

(Nariyal Bhara Kela)

2 T. instant tamarind concentrate

1 1/2 T. water

1 T. minced fresh mint

1/8 t. cayenne pepper

3 T. grated fresh or dried coconut

1 t. garam masala

1/2 t. ajwain seeds or fennel seeds, crushed

1/4 t. salt

8 small firm ripe bananas, no more than 6-7" long, preferably "finger" bananas, red or yellow, 4-5" long

3 T. slivered almonds

1/2 c. maple syrup

2 T. crystallized ginger, finely chopped

1 T. each lime and orange juice

2 T. melted unsalted butter

1.  Combine the tamarind concentrate with water and whisk with a fork until blended.  Add the mint, cayenne, coconut, garam masala, ajwain or fennel seeds and salt, and toss to mix.

2.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Farenheit (190 degrees Celsius).  Peel the bananas and using a sharp paring knife, cut a slit about two-thirds through the flesh lengthwise, leaving 1/4" uncut at each end.  Very carefully, ease the tamarind-coconut mixture evenly into the slits.  Arrange in a single layer in a baking dish and scatter the slivered almonds over the bananas.

3.  Combine the maple syrup, ginger, lime and orange juices and butter in a bowl and stir until blended.  Pour the syrup over the bananas and bake for about 20 minutes, basting occasionally to keep them moist.  Serve with a drizzle of the thickened syrup, either warm or at room temperature.

-------

Spicy Plum Chutney

(Aloo Bookhara Chatni)

3 T. ghee or a mixture of unsalted butter and corn oil

1/2 t. fennel seeds

1/4 t. kalonji (nigella seeds)

1/2 t. black mustard seeds

2 hot green chilies, sliced very thin (or as desired)

1 1/2 lbs. Italian plums, pitted and quartered

1/2 c. raisins, preferably muscat ((although I've made this chutney with golden sultanas))

1 1/2 c. sugar or equivalent sweetener

1/4 t. salt

1/4 c. toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

1/4 c. coconut, fresh or dried

2 T. crystallized or stem ginger, minced finely

1.  Place the ghee or butter-oil mixture in a 3 quart saucepan over moderately low heat.  When it is hot but not smoking, add the fennel seeds, kalonji, black mustard seeds and chilies, and fry until the mustard seeds pop and turn gray or the butter froths.  Stir in the plums, raisins, sugar and salt and simmer until thick, 30-40 minutes.

2.  Remove the pan from heat and stir in the remaining ingredients.  Serve at room temperature or refrigerate, well covered for 2-3 days.

[Suvir Saran]

I should have steered you to my site for the Loquat recipe.  Sorry, in my travels frame of mind I did not even think of it.  When I did a google check under loquat chutney, the recipe from me was the 3rd find.

Loquat Salsa

Also just in case you cannot find it here is the recipe:

Loquat Salsa

* 1 cup loquats, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

* 1 cup green papaya, peeled and shredded

* 1 teaspoon lemon juice

* pinch or two of cayenne pepper

* 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves, minced very fine

* 1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed and seeded

* 1 teaspoon toasted cumin powder

* 1 teaspoon sugar

In a medium bowl, mix together the loquats, green papaya, lemon juice, cayenne, cilantro leaves and jalapeno. Season with toasted cumin powder and sugar.

Serve as a dip, as a condiment to go with foie gras, or on a sandwich with cheese.

The watermelon curry is not my favorite dish in the world, but it certainly is a means of cooking with fruits.  And watermelons are in abundance in Rajasthan and being a dessert state, they are clever in using whatever they have.

There are many types of chutneys made with fruits.  In fact in Indian cooking, a clever chef will use seasonal fruits to make all kinds of preserves.  That shows their creativity.  Murrabas, chutneys, achaars are all prepared with whatever fruit is in abundance and available at any given time.  Murrabas are like jams but with spices.  Achaar is the Hindi word for pickles and chutneys are Indian salsa like condiments.

Green Mango and mint chutney is easy to make.  Make your usual recipe for mint or cilantro chutney and add the flesh of one green mango.  Add some sugar if the chutney prepared is too sour for you.  

And last night we ate a lovely Pommelo Salad at one of the most revered Thai restaurants in Singapore.  Thanying at the Amara Hotel.  The pomello salad was lovely.  I could feast with that alone most daily.  But Green Papaya and Green Mango salads that I have eaten at Thanying are also great.  

Will write more after I return to NYC.  Now I am ready to be back home... Missing my kitchen and the kitties.

PS:  Have eaten Durian fruit now.  And have seen many dishes made with it.  In fact at McDonalds in Singapore they are selling Durian Ice-cream.

[Suvir Saran]

If you can find green mangos in the US now, you may want to make this chutney.  Adjust the salt and sugar to taste.

I will come back and test the recipe.  It has worked for me in the past.  Thought it better to give you something to play with than to have you wait for my arrival back home.

Green Chutney

* 2 cups tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves

* 1 green mango, peeled and cubed

* 5-10 hot green chilies, less if you want a mild chutney

* Juice of 1 lemon

* 1 inch fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped coarsely

* 1 small onion, halved

* 1 tbsp sugar, or more to taste

* 1 tsp. red wine vinegar

* 1 tsp cumin seeds, roasted and ground

* Salt to taste

Mix all ingredients in a blender and liquefy into a smooth sauce. Serve chilled.

You may add some of this chutney into a cup of yogurt and mix it well to have a batch that is not as spicy. The yogurt also makes it very cooling.

Note: You can substitue cilantro for mint to make Mint Chutney. Or you can mix the two to make a green chutney that would be eaten in most Indian homes in the summer months. You can add more green chilies, or simply make a green chili chutney with only a few tablespoons of cilantro greens to make a spicy hot green chili sauce.

[ajay]

thanks for the excellent recipes, Suvir.  Your dedication to this site, even on your vacation is commendable.

we've almost never added mango to our mint, cilantro or mint/cilantro chutneys in the past; I'm going to have to overcome the traditionalists in the family and insist that we try it.

Does anyone have any leads on where to get good, fresh locquats in NYC?  Thanks in advance.

[Jason Perlow]

Whats a loquat? is it like a kumquat?

[helenas]

here is an article including a picture of Loquat

Jason, i think you mentioned that you've lived in Israel for half a year. It's very popular there and is called "shessek" in hebrew.

[Suvir Saran]

I have found them (Loquats) in the past at Balduccis, Gourmet Garage and Dean and Delucas.  But it is not a fruit they carry with any consistency.  One can also try and order them online.  Try your luck.

Mint and Cilantro chutney made with green mangos is a classic.  You will not have to work too had on your family.  It is a winning combination and perfect in the Indian summer.  Once you taste it, you will understand why across India people use them when in season.

On streets of Bombay, when in season Bhel Puri and Sev Puri are garnished with very finely chopped green mango.  It used to be my favorite time to eat these street foods.

Enjoy cooking these Ajay and thanks for your kind words.

[Suvir Saran]

Today, Tuesday, I am going to make some Quince Chutney.  Found Quinces in the market and now I miss that Chutney we ate growing up.  It is delicious.  There is something magical about a Quince Chutney.  It has a great texture... almost sandy and then the Heeng (asafoetida) and the cumin seeds make it very savory.  The raisins give it a nice sweeteness.  Quinces are found in the foothills in the north and are used to prepare this amazing chutney that is served in Kaayastha homes across the north with biryaanis and even Tahirees.

I had to let you know this since we have been chatting about fruits and their use in Indian cooking.

Biryaani - Rice and meat/vegetable casserole

Tahiree - A UP style rice pilaf made with rice, potatoes and peas

[Jinmyo]

Suvir, what's UP style. Kinda perky?

[Suvir Saran]

Jinmyo, I am sorry... UP stands for the state of Uttar Pradesh (Northern Provinces) in northern India.

My apologies.