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Everything posted by wingding

  1. Buttermilk sorbet is half buttermilk and half simple syrup,more or less.Buttermilk can make devils food cake or chocolate ice cream a little more tangy and interesting.
  2. wingding


    Zabaglione di Fragolini&[wild strawberry liquer]with poached rhubarb & vanilla gelato....Coppetta'creamsicle'tangerine sorbet,coconut gelato,toasted meringue....Yogurt /lime sorbet with pineapple rosemary marmelatta.
  3. I've been noticing green[but not fresh]chickpeas in local N.Y. Indian markets lately.What is special about them,and how are they best prepared?Sprouted first?
  4. I picked up an interesting book on Lucknow cuisine,called 'Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh;the Cuisine of Awadh',by Sangeeta Bhatnagar&R.K. Saxena.I found it in a railway station somewhere in India,but it's published by Harper Collins India.It has recipes,but covers techniques like Dhungar cooking,and traces their history[lots of pictures too]...I recommend the Calcutta Cookbook as well-a lot of interesting historical tidbits,and it's written with some sense of humor.
  5. Last night,we had the bad fortune to be seated next to two really rude women at Jewel Bako in N.Y.Cell phones a twittering,constant demands to the waitress"I need some more wasabi Right Now",and 'fuck' every 4 seconds.This while we're trying to have some kind of rarified dinner.It seems that Sushi restaurants have become the steakhouses for moneyed members of gen. x.Conspicuous consumption and loud behavior rule.
  6. Reading google translations of Italian recipes is funny;A land where white flour can become he who has come from the mountains,cake is always cakey,and other mundane ingredients assume bizarre mythical names.
  7. Yes,I agree,the two extremes are the most memorable of all my dining experiences...Living in the middle of New York City,the very simple,fresh,immediate food is what I crave,and miss the most.At best,I can sometimes buy good product at a greenmarket,go home ,and cook it myself.But there are few restaurants that do[or can afford to do]this well.The high end is also increasingly expensive to do these days.Most of the 4 star restaurants could not exist without all the free help in their kitchens.And as I've come to know more about quality and cooking,the middle is just less and less worth it these days.Why shell out 40 or 50 dollars[at least] for mediocre food?
  8. Diamond Jim Brady-who really enjoyed life,and eating prodigious amounts of food.Maybe him,the Marx Brothers,Ethel Merman,and Robert Crumb.I think we'd have a good time.
  9. Suvir;When I mention reduced milk,I was thinking of the flavor it has,and how that could make a tasty pannacotta.I suspect that some Italian pannacotta recipes,which call for simmering the cream for a few minutes,might also use this for flavor,and possibly a thicker texture with less gelatin.I had wonderful pannacotta in Bologna this past December.Very similar-a plain pannacotta served with some macerated figs,wonderful texture and flavor.
  10. And seem to argue for the sake of arguing.But we sit around and read[some]of it,don't we?
  11. Suvir;Pannacotta means cooked cream in Italian.Fish glue would most likely translate to sheet gelatin.I used to make pannacotta with cream,and a little milk to cut the richness.You can also incorporate yogurt,buttermilk,creme fraiche into the mix.You can infuse the cream with any flavor you like,and it is important to use as little gelatin as possible.The Indian techniques of reducing milk might marry very well with a pannacotta.
  12. The arguments where people expound and turn somersaults endlessly,where the answers are often simple,or don't exist at all.But then,I was one of those people in school who never wanted to go to the 500 word essay limit ,when I felt that I could state my point in 150.[or try,anyway].
  13. wingding


    I've talked to a couple of chefs who've gone to preview meals.They've described a lot of interesting techniques and flavor combinations.Beyond that,it's new and different,and needs time to settle in.
  14. Humor usually doesn't happen when you try too hard.Having a sense of irony about what you are actually doing,and remembering that you are not curing cancer,but writing about hot dogs or some toad of a maitre'd at the fancy restaurant where you just plonked down too much money,is important.Unintentional humor is way more funny...the 14 page arguments that all come back to the same argument,on egullet,are funny,but need an editrix.
  15. I'd recommend going to Aldila while they're still serving some of their wonderful winter braises.I had some wonderful rabbit,and braised beef cheeks there last week.It's not an old time N.Y. place,but it is my personal favorite-low key and relaxed,with really well cooked,consistent food.
  16. 'Gypsy',the autobiography of Gypsy Rose Lee...what a life,and a point in time in N.Y. entertainment history[great pictures too!]no one but Ethel Merman could ever have played the part of her mother..what a piece of work!and I found another great Time Life Good Cook book'Beverages'-all kinds if interesting stuff.
  17. The Cyclone begins to run on Memorial day...and Phillipe's,the candy store at the subway station,closed permanently a few years ago.I'm old enough to remember Coney Island from the late 1950s',and am sorry to say that it's a bare,depressing shell of what it was.And a little more bare every year....
  18. Steep prunes in armangac with vanilla bean and sugar syrup.[cook off some ofthe alcohol first].Eat with creme fraiche,or make prune armangac ice cream.
  19. wingding

    Wine and Cheese

    We 3 had this on Sunday;and what the hell,it made us pretty damn happy.Suspiro de Cabra[goat cheese fromSpain],truffle honey[italy]Pouilly Fume{Didier Dagueneau,France].
  20. The simplest biscuit or parker rolls will be very popular if they are FRESH BAKED,and well made to begin with.If you can't freeze pre made biscuits,you'll have to teach your guy how to make good ones,and pay attention to details.A good breadstick is great too.You can flavor tham all sorts of ways,once you have a good basic recipe,and you can make a lot at once,and they will keep well.With a basic convection oven,it's silly to get overambitious about starters and such.If you're working with a prep guy who can't really understand bread that quickly,it will be impossible to get really quality bread.I've been down that road.Keep it simple,if you can't make it yourself.
  21. Spray Oven cleaners[no brand names mentioned].I was assisting a cooking class years ago,and opened the oven door to an oven that had been sprayed but not cleaned afterward.My eyes were wide open,but my vision was GONE,totally black,for about one terrifying minute.The fact that marijuana[for instance] is illegal,while lots of people are using this scary stuff without care,is well.....typical.
  22. wingding

    Fresh fava beans

    When they're young,you don't need to peel them,or even cook them sometimes.The outer shell as the beans age is nasty,and can cause lightheadedness[?]if you eat too much.A chronic condition caused be too much of this fava shell eating is called favism.Believe it or not there is a favism website,detailing this problem.
  23. The first time that I visited Paris,in the early 70s',I remember that there were butchers that specialized in horsemeat-they had beautiful neon horse head shapes hung outside their shops.I was told that this was mainly for people who bought horsemeat for their dogs.True?Most of those shops have disappeared,as far as I know.Any more information on horsemeat in French cooking?
  24. I'm in total agreement,and then some.I don't even have cable,but can get the food network if I tilt my antenna a certain way.But I just can't stand it anymore.Total vapid,useless dreck,now constantly broken up with endless commercials and promos,just to make it a little more intolerable.Why bother.
  25. wingding

    Fish + Cheese

    Some mild cheeses or dairy are ok with smoked or salted preserved fish to me-salmon roe with creme fraiche,chopped herring salads.But when we did sole 'bonne femme' in cooking school.I hated the whole idea.Beautiful,fresh fish has a clean flavor that I hate to mess with too much.I eat a lot of fish raw,with a little lemon and salt,and let the flavor just shine through..[but the quality has to be top drawer].
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