Avenues Restaurant To Get 2004 F&W Best New Chef

[ulterior epicure]

Hi Joe, haven't seen you around in a while.

1. The dining room is fairly large - but it is only one room - in a hotel... I'm sure ChefGEB can chime in and tell us exactly how many tables/seats the Avenues accommodates.... that is, just as soon as he returns from winning the Rising Star award at the James Beard Awards!

2. Yes, the kitchen is open to the dining room - this is also where the Chef's Bar is.

3. Very cool. I'm almost positive that they did offer me a drink pairing at Alinea. Did you try it?

u.e.

[chicagowench]

I swear I'll get my descriptions up tomorrow, today was jam packed. To expand on what u.e. just said...

-One large rectangular room, with an inset rectangular room in one corner for private parties.

-Trio also offered a non-alcoholic beverage service when Achatz was there.

[Ling]

Such evocative writing and stunning pictures, U.E.! Thanks so much for taking the time to gift us with such a thorough report.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks Ling!

I'm not done yet... still have cheese and dessert to go... I've been having problem with the eGullet Image system. Am I alone on that?

Will try again now.

u.e.

p.s. wench... take your time... I'm just, oh, sittin' around resting after this storm that we call finals and graduation. Oy.

[greensNbeans]

outstanding post - Ive waiting for some pics of Graham's food for a long time now. Cheers!

[ulterior epicure]

I would just like to congratulate ChefGEB again for your well-deserved nomination for the James Beard Rising Star Award! I'm SURE this won't be the last time you'll be making the journey to "the House" in NYC. Perhaps next time I will join you!!

u.e.

[Elrushbo]

Second course:  Duo of Asparagus

Again, conceptually a similar dish, but plated very differently.  Mine featured 4 interlaid spears of asparagus (white and green), lavished with tarragon infused sabayon and crunchy bacon, accompanied by a goat cheese 'cloud' topped with half a duck egg.  The asparagus was perfect- not overcooked to squishiness, but not so rare that it was too crunchy.  I found myself trying to remember what the brekkie dish in the UK of asparagus dipped in egg is called (soldiers on horseback?); this seemed like the penultimate luxury version of it.  I sometimes find tarragon to be overwhelming in delicate sauces and too licorice-y for my taste; not so here.  The goat cheese cut perfectly across the fattiness of the duck egg, bacon, and sabayon in the mouth.  It was somewhat maddening- in a jolly way- to try to get just a little taste of everything on a single forkful.  So unbelievably good.

Not that I'm complaining about my asparagus... but I'm *envious* of your version! Goat cheese? Duck egg? oh....

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7th Course: Risotto

Risotto of roasted garlic, fiddlehead ferns, stinging nettle and nuggets of grenoilles (frog legs). The risotto is topped with stinging nettle foam and fried stinging nettle leaves.

Risotto has also featured on every Chef's Palate menu I've had. (See here and here.).

Taste: This was the glory of spring in a little pot. Meaty nuggets of cuisses de grenoilles luxuriated in a Parmesan-fortified risotto studded with crunchy tendrils of fiddlehead ferns and whole cloves of roasted garlic. Bits of stinging nettle leaves were threaded throughout. The crispy fried ones on top were great. Forest and earth. Frogs, ferns, garlic and nettle...

My only complaint about this dish was that the risotto was a little more soupy than I prefer. I like my risotto's a bit thicker, without being a congealed mass of glop. This one was more like a slightly thickened rice soup.

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Blackberry-Sage

This pairing really packed a punch - not only in terms of flavor, but also in consistency. You can't tell by this picture, but the juice poured like tomato juice - thick with yummy fruit concentrate. I'm not usually a fan of sage, but I loved the use here - featuring in an awesome supporting role to the blackberry's sexy lead. This was paired with the following two courses.

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8th Course: Rouget

So, like many of Bowle's dishes, the format's the same, but the preparation is different. Every menu I've had at the Avenue has featured a polenta, greens and fish course. (See the others here and here.) Yet, I never get bored with the dishes because the preparations are so great. Despite the similiarties, I'm able to appreciate the slight tweaks.

The rouget was served on a bed of polenta and cooked rapini. The plate is garnished with saffron oil and bits of pinenuts.

Taste: What truly made this course outstanding was the little hill of crispy fried rouget scales on the filet. They reminded me of the shell and heads of crispy whole fried prawns. The polenta was *PERFECT,* and, for the first time, I was actually able to discern the musky bitter flavor of saffron from the oil that hugged the polenta. I'm not sure what the pinenut added to the mix though.

Oh, and yes, of course, the fish... it was just as pleasing as a crispy pan-fried rouget can be.

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9th Course: Rabbit

Five preparations of rabbit accompanied by confit of carrots and artichoke hearts stuffed with fava bean paste.

1. Confit'ed rabbit leg: The meat was very soft and not stringy or grainy as I had feared. Curiously, both of my dining companions and I thought it tasted just like tuna salad. We couldn't figure out what it was that made it taste like tuna salad - as there was no discernable mayonnaise. Perhaps celery seed? I'm not sure. ChefGEB?

2. Rabbit "bacon": I was expecting something salty or smokey and crispy, like crackling. Instead, this "bacon" was extremely tender and slightly sweet. It was definitely my least favorite of the five preparations.

3. Rabbit loin: A well cooked piece of meat. I can't say that I remember all that much about it.

4. Rabbit roulade stuffed with prune and lavendar: This was great, I especially appreciated the prune-lavendar stuffing.

5. Rabbit kidney: This was by far my favorite of the five preparations. The kidney had been cooked on the outside but slightly rare on the inside. Despite being very offal-y, the kidney had a very clean taste - no doubt from its freshness.

Truth be told, my favorite item on this course, beside the kidney, were the fava bean paste-stuffed artichoke hearts. The confit'ed carrots weren't bad either.

Overall, a great dish - playful and tasty. And, a sight to behold!

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Miso-Mushroom Broth

First, you can see (on the right) the thick consistency of the Blackberry-Sage pairing. I really was as thick as tomato juice.

I have to admit, this was my least favorite drink of the evening. I guess it's because I've always thought of miso as a warm condiment, I couldn't get over this savory chilled creation. In fact, I noticed that the savory drinks were consistently my least favorite of the pairings.

However, with the next two courses, the drink actually worked. Yet, still I mostly stuck with water during this phase of the meal. This was paired the 11th, 12th and 13th courses.

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11th Course: Char

The filet of char sat atop a bed of Beluga lentils and was topped with a perfectly crisped rectangle of beautiful char skin. Chef told me that the fish had been poached in olive oil at a VERY LOW TEMPERATURE (he said that the poaching oil wasn't even hot enough to burn your skin) and it showed. The fish was immensely silky in texture - cooked on the outside but warm and raw on the inside. The fish was accompanied by cooked morel mushrooms and a red wine and fruit reduction.

Taste: It was so refreshing to have lentils prepared well. Tender, soft and as Chef put it, "sexier in the mouth." Down with the gritty - give me sexy! Together with the silky fish and the crunchy skin, the textural play was outstanding. So too the flavors.

The mos flavorful element on the dish for me was the red wine and fruit reduction sauce that was paired with the morels. I could have sworn that the morels had been cooked with vinegar - as they were slightly sour, but Sous Chef Elaina said that they were simply cooked down with oil and water.

The skin was surprisingly thick and CRUNCHY - not just crisp. It was between chip and water cracker consistency and stunningly flecked with dots of bright apricot-orange - brilliant!

Overall, I thought the char itself, which is a rather delicate and silky fish (as it was expertly highlighted in Bowles's preparation), was a bit up-staged by the very very strong supporting cast in this dish.

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12th Course: Lamb

Lamb rib chop "unravelled" served with flageolet beans and a smokey bacon-black olive paste. The plate is garnished with microgreens and plated with a minted lamb jus.

Taste: In a word: Smokey. The dark smokey-bitter bacon and black olive paste, dominated this course.

The lamb was very well prepared. The chef had 'unpackaged' the lamb chop for more "surface area." (He also did this with the lamb chop I had the first time I ate at the Avenues). While I'm not sure what extra surface area I got from him cutting it that I couldn't get from cutting the chop myself, I didn't care. The lamb was great.

However, I have to admit that I was more intrigued by the oh-so-soft flageolet beans - which is especially ironic after I had just mentioned to the chef that when I lived in Europe last year, I got so sick of flageolet beans because of the ubiquitous cassoulet! Chef Bowles gave me a reason to fall back in love with them!

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13th Course: Beef

Beef atop a potato-horseradish beignet and wilted spinach. The beef was sauced generously with white truffle oil and a darkly rich full-bodied merlot reduction.

Taste: First, I have to say that the beef, despite the picture, was wonderfully reddish-pink in the center and immensely tender. This course was a great way to end our savory courses. Chef Bowles tried to seduce me again with white truffle oil, which he had liberally drizzled all around the food.

The merlot reduction was very exciting - as mentioned, very full-bodied, deep, rich, sweet and dark.

Despite the fact that the potato-horseradish beignet wasn't as horseradishy as the one I had a few months earlier (That was the only downer. See here.), I liked this beef course better than the lamb that preceeded it, which is uncharacteristic of me as I usually always like the lamb more.

... and now, a word from our co-anchor, wench...

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Man...I cannot WAIT to try this place! Every single thing looks delicious! Thanks for the recommendation, u.e.

One question-the chairs at the Chef's Bar were comfortable, right? Did you prefer the Chef's Bar to the regular tables?

I'll be sure to hit Avenues shortly after the remodeling and send you some photos, unless you get there before me!

[ulterior epicure]

Elrushbo.

1. The chairs are very comfortable - once you are settled them. It's a bit of a climb, but they swivel to that you can get in and out reasonably easily.

2. I prefer the Bar only because I enjoy observing the chefs at work and interacting with them. If you're looking for a more intimate experience - depending on your company/guest(s) (if I'm not mistaken, you'll be with your father?), then a table may be more appropriate.

3. Great - can't wait to hear about the remodeled space, as I'm not sure when I'll be back to the Avenues.

u.e.

P.S. I'm still having trouble uploading the dessert and cheese courses. Working on it.

[Elrushbo]

Elrushbo.

1. The chairs are very comfortable - once you are settled them.  It's a bit of a climb, but they swivel to that you can get in and out reasonably easily. 

2. I prefer the Bar only because I enjoy observing the chefs at work and interacting with them.  If you're looking for a more intimate experience - depending on your company/guest(s) (if I'm not mistaken, you'll be with your father?), then a table may be more appropriate.

3. Great - can't wait to hear about the remodeled space, as I'm not sure when I'll be back to the Avenues.

u.e.

P.S. I'm still having trouble uploading the dessert and cheese courses.  Working on it.

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Actually, I just changed my reservation so we can sit at the Chef's Bar, based pretty much on your experience...I think me and my dad would both enjoy the interactive part of it. He's never been to a place like Avenues, I think he'd appreciate it more at the Bar, being able to talk to the chefs and all and watch them work, it sounds like it would be more fun. Certainly different! We're hitting Spring the night before, so should make for a great weekend.

[ulterior epicure]

elrushbo.

glad to hear it. be sure to tell chefgeb hello for me. also, enjoy spring!

u.e.

[Elrushbo]

elrushbo.

glad to hear it.  be sure to tell chefgeb hello for me.  also, enjoy spring!

u.e.

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Will do! He should comp your next dinner there, I imagine you bring a little extra business for Chef GEB with your recommendations and praise, even before the Free Press article.

Edited May 10, 2006 by Elrushbo (log)

[chicagowench]

OK. Finally coming in with some more of my stuff. I'm keeping it snappy, since UE and I overlapped on courses so much (and I have no shiny happy photos)

Third course: Kangaroo, in exactly the same prep as u.e., I do believe. Every so often, I run into some gorgeous piece of tableware which is hard to eat from. The swoop bowl is it, especially if one's wearing a big chonky bracelet. The gentle *kawhang!* of my wrist against bowl did nothing to heighten the sensation of eating my child's favorite animal at the zoo, but the kangaroo was quite tasty.

Fourth: Foie-lava (as in baklava). Similar flavors but a very different presentation than u.e.'s- the foie was in a bird's nest of phyllo, and unlike u.e.'s, the honey was not too little- mine was in fact too much. The foie was perfect and silky, but as it warmed up a touch the honey became almost too overpowering.

Fifth: Risotto. The same as u.e.'s, and I too found it a little loose for my taste (I prefer it a bit firmer). That said, it was like eating a glorious bowl of a tidepool, briny and foamy and bracing.

Sixth: Langoustine. Easily one of my favorite courses, and not on the menu I was ordering from (thanks GEB!). I was carefully pacing myself on alcohol thanks to big important meeting the next day, and that was shot to hell by the waiter dropping off a glass and saying, "From the kitchen, not my idea, even if I am Mexican." Patron silver was a perfect accompaniment to the plantain dusted langoustine, black bean puree redolent with cumin, and quenelle of avocado. This dish made me positively giddy with joy- the langoustine was perfectly prepared, the crusting not gooey or doughy at all. The flavors were impeccably clean and brilliant. Magnificent.

Seventh course: Turbot. This was, alas, the 'meh' dish of the meal for me (thus I have few notes). Like u.e.'s rouget, this was served atop a polenta, with baby spinach, red peppercorn oil, and chutney. The chutney was entirely too sweet, and swamped out the delicacy of the polenta and overwhelmed the whitefish.

Eighth: Rabbit, aka 'Thumper 101 Ways'. Same plating as u.e.'s, I too loved the kidney though the bacon was probably my favorite. Mmmm, bacon.

Three more courses to go!

[ulterior epicure]

... sigh... the ImageGullet god is allowing me to upload again... so here I am to finish off my last meal. Last posting finished off all of the savory/meat courses... so on to the

"Fromage" Course:

Three triple Cream cheeses garnished with beet, almond butter, and Pedro Ximenes Lustau San Emilio sorbet. The small glass contains honey soda.

1. Queso de Oveja (Spanish sheep's milk)

2. [a href=http://www.treatsofmaine.com/cheese/hvcamembert.html]Nancy's Hudson Valley Camembert[/a] (Cow's milk)

3. Brie (French)

What really impressed me on this dish (beside the beets and the cheeses and the honey soda) was the unassuming sorbet. I had requested a Lustau San Emilio Pedro Ximenes to be served to my guests and me for dessert. Well, Chef Bowles delivered - and did double duty at that. He went the extra mile and made a sorbet out of it to serve with our cheese course. What a pleasant surprise! He also served the Pedro Ximenes sorbet to us after our dessert. It was excellent.

Honey-Vanilla Pairing:

Honey-Vanilla paired with the Fromage course.

After the Meyer Lemon-Jasmine pairing with the 2nd Course (Read about it [a href=http://www.flickr.com/photos/ulteriorepicure/140512131/in/set-72057594125651852/]here[/a]), this was my favorite drink of the evening. It tasted just like it sound and paired excellently with the rich and barn-yardy taste of the triple creams.

...and, drumroll...

Dessert: Meyer Lemon Semifreddo

Meyer Lemon Semifreddo topped with ginger confit. This dish also featured cubes of Meyer lemon gelatin cube on meyer lemon cream. The entire dish is dusted with fennel pollen.

Taste: He had me at semifreddo. This was a delightfully light and bright end to a very good meal. The semifreddo was ethereally light and fluffy. Meyer lemon, with its tempered tartness and bright sweetness really awakened helped re-awaken my near food-coma self.

...mignardises rounded out the meal... and a spectacular meal at that!! Thanks Elliot for another dazzling meal. Thanks to all you eGulleters for being patient on this review!

... wench...

Edited May 20, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Elrushbo]

Two weeks from Saturday and I will be at the Chef's Bar at Avenues! Can't wait!

UE-Do you know if the menu served at the Chef's Bar the same as the Chef's Palate or if it's different? Just curious-I'm sure it will be spectacular! I haven't really been wowed by food since Prime in Vegas last fall. Went to Coast restaurant in Milwaukee last week-ugh!

[ulterior epicure]

Elrushbo.

Yes, as far as I know, the menus offered at the bar are the same as in the dining room.

Enjoy! Can't wait to hear your report.

u.e.

[Elrushbo]

Elrushbo.

Yes, as far as I know, the menus offered at the bar are the same as in the dining room.

Enjoy!  Can't wait to hear your report.

u.e.

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I'll even take a few pictures as well...maybe not every dish, but then maybe I will. Did you use a flash for your latest Avenues photo set? Does Chef Bowles know about the Free Press article? Plus I'll likely be taking my wife to Chicago for the Tut exhibit this summer or fall, if it's even somewhat as good as you say it is(and I trust your judgement on food), we'll go to the re-modeled Avenues. The 3 course prix-fixe would be tough to beat for value. My wife is an extremely fussy eater, she'd like being able to choose exactly what she wants.

Edited June 2, 2006 by Elrushbo (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Elrushbo.

1. No flash used.

2. Yes, of course he knows about the article. He and I have talked about it.

"Bowles is interested in what diners like the U.E. have to say because of their extensive high-end dining experience.

When someone like that is interested enough in a chef's cuisine to request something special, Bowles says, 'I think it's great.

'They're putting themselves in your hands and saying, "Do your thing." When that happens, we are much more apt to go overboard and try to blow these people away.

'At the end of the day, you love cooking for people who totally get it,' he says."

Edited June 2, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[Elrushbo]

Elrushbo.

1. No flash used.

2. Yes, of course he knows about the article.  He and I have talked about it.

"Bowles is interested in what diners like the U.E. have to say because of their extensive high-end dining experience.

When someone like that is interested enough in a chef's cuisine to request something special, Bowles says, 'I think it's great.

'They're putting themselves in your hands and saying, "Do your thing." When that happens, we are much more apt to go overboard and try to blow these people away.

'At the end of the day, you love cooking for people who totally get it,' he says."

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Well, you certainly deserve a comped dinner at Avenues for the free publicity. I seriously think you should be on the Food Network...I showed my wife the Free Press article, she said I'm like you because I like to spend my free $$ on fine dining. Maybe in twenty years when I have accumulated your restaurant experience!

I've told her that some guys like to spend money on a boat, or on hunting, or golfing, etc, I like to spend my money on food.

[bdkollker]

Chef GEB, Menu looks brilliant i love your style and cant wait to get up there. I'm going to be up there after the construction in Aug. Anyways i would love to know what your reasons behind the drink pairings. With only having 4 cooks in the kitchen it seems like it would be more of a headach then it is worth. please elaborate.

[Elrushbo]

Chef GEB-I am eagerly anticipating my experience at the Chef's Bar a week from Saturday! Ulterior Epicure helped me to decide on Avenues, his advice and amazing pictures on flickr.com made the difference-it's a special occasion as my dad's birthday is being celebrated.

[gaya]

From those pictures the food looks sloppy......

[docsconz]

From those pictures the food looks sloppy......

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You may dislike the aesthetic element, but I certainly disagree about the food looking sloppy. If anything it looks very precisely plated to me.

[ulterior epicure]

... now I don't know if I should be offended as a photographer!

gaya, could you be more precise or explain your comment a little more? In what way does the food look "sloppy?"

u.e.

[gaya]

No disrespect to anyone. I am sure the food and experience that Chef Bowles presents is amazing. But from those pictures I would expect the food/dishes are not techniquely sound, flavors mudled, proteins over cooked, under seasoned, etc.....The beef is over cooked, rouget was not nicely butchered.....

[ronnie_suburban]

No disrespect to anyone.  I am sure the food and experience that Chef Bowles presents is amazing.  But from those pictures I would expect the food/dishes are not techniquely sound, flavors mudled, proteins over cooked, under seasoned, etc.....The beef is over cooked, rouget was not nicely butchered.....

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Perhaps this is why some chefs don't like it when customers take pictures in their restaurants.

Nonetheless, assessments made about a restaurant -- by someone who has never actually eaten there -- based solely on pictures of its food taken by a 3rd party, amateur photographer, should be taken with a large grain of salt. I'm really curious to know how, by merely looking at such images, one can reasonably estimate that flavors are "mudled" (sic) and that the food is "under seasoned".

=R=