TDG: Cheesecake

[mamster]

It was not until I left home for college that I realized that cheesecake was available year-round and that no lightning bolt would strike me if I indulged. . .

Join Andrea Hale (bloviatrix) for a creamy trip back in time.

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[Pan]

Thanks, Andrea. That piece left me with a smile on my face.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Andrea, I am so thrilled to read your article on cheesecake .. in fact, I am qvelling(pride at an accomplishment) at the entire piece and its appearance at the top of the homepage of eGullet today!!

Yasher koach (congratulations) to an ayshes chayil (a woman of valor)!!

You have made my mouth water and my eyes tear with delight at both your culinary accomplishments and your sensitivity to the "holy cheesecake" of Shavout ... you are indeed fortunate to be able to bake this most exquisite of desserts and receive positive, no, delighted, feedback on this!!

Keep writing for TDG, and keep baking ... I thoroughly rejoice in your weekly blog "what we're making for Shabbos" and try though I might, can not keep up with your preparations, energy, and enthusiasm!!

[bloviatrix]

Thanks for all the compliments guys.

We finished the last of the cheesecake tonight. I was even licking the tin foil trying to get at the last stuck on bits.

[jackal10]

Thanks.

I'm confused by cheesecake. I think the problem is that there seem to be two, if not three (or more) traditions:

a) The one I grew up with: heavy, dense, baked brown on top, cream cheese and lemon, about an inch of filling. Eggs not seperated and beaten. Pastry or cracker shell. Heathens add raisins, which sink to the bottom.

b) Light and fluffy, baked, eggs seperated and the white beaten stiff like a souffle. About six inches of filling - same as the heavy version but inflated with beaten egg white.

c) Uncooked, but set. Mostly commercial. May have a seperate layer of fruit or chocolate.

I believe version (a) to be the only true cheesecake, and there is no need to speak softly when it is cooking. I deduce you are making (b) the souffle version, which needs to be treated like any souffle.

[bleudauvergne]

Delicious essay, Andrea.

[bloviatrix]

Thanks.

I'm confused by cheesecake. I think the problem is that there seem to be two, if not three (or more) traditions:

a) The one I grew up with: heavy, dense, baked brown on top, cream cheese and lemon, about an inch of filling. Eggs not seperated and beaten. Pastry or cracker shell. Heathens add raisins, which sink to the bottom.

b) Light and fluffy, baked, eggs seperated and the white beaten stiff like a souffle. About six inches of filling - same as the heavy version but inflated with beaten egg white.

c) Uncooked, but set. Mostly commercial. May have a seperate layer of fruit or chocolate.

I believe version (a) to be the only true cheesecake, and there is no need to speak softly when it is cooking. I deduce you are making (b) the souffle version, which needs to be treated like any souffle.

Actually both my mother and I make what you call "type a."

The recipe I use calls for 2 pounds of cream cheese, sugar, lime juice, and 4 eggs. Because there is no leavener in the cake, any "lift" comes from beating the cream cheese at high speed for about 5 minutes plus the addition of the eggs (beat in one at a time, until just absorbed). Over the past 10 years I've learned that the dread deflation is unavoidable and nothing you can do will stop it. The real key is the sour cream glaze which levels off the cake and hides the depression in the middle.

Mom taught biology. Perhaps if she was a chemistry teacher she would think about chemical reactions in baking. Hence the request for silence.

[Moopheus]

Over the past 10 years I've learned that the dread deflation is unavoidable and nothing you can do will stop it. The real key is the sour cream glaze which levels off the cake and hides the depression in the middle.

I've never considered the deflation to be a bad thing; it's just part of the cheesecake. Then again, I've never bothered with a water bath, either. I like the slightly denser part at the edge. Cracks, on the other hand, can be avoided with a little care in the cooling stage. I've never liked any kind of topping on my cheesecake.

Too bad the Mother Wonderful's book is out of print; I've made some pretty good cheescakes from that book.

[browniebaker]

It's (1) inflation, followed by deflation, and (2) baking at high temperature that cause cracking upon cooling.

Inflation, deflation, and cracking on top can all be minimized (and density maximized) if you avoid beating the batter much after adding the eggs. My New-York-style cheesecake bakes up as dense as can be and without a crack. I mix together the cream cheese and sugar until perfectly smooth before mixing in the flour and vanilla. I beat the eggs separately until a uniform yellow and then blend gently into the batter to avoid air bubbles. I pour the batter into the pan and rotate the pan by several quarter-turns to release any air bubbles and settle the batter. Next I wrap soaking-wet Magi-Cake strips around walls of pan. First I bake at 475 degrees for 15 minute, and then lower thermostat to 200 degrees and bake for one hour and 15 minutes. I do not open oven during baking. When time is up, I turn off the oven and leave the cake in the unopened oven for one hour.

Edited June 2, 2004 by browniebaker (log)

[bloviatrix]

Regarding the cracking, according to the book, in order to prevent cracking you should put your cheesecake directly in the refrigerator from the oven.

Another interesting point is that you shouldn't wrap the cake with foil, rather cover it with a cardboard cake round, or some other paper product as it will absorb all moisture and you won't get condensation on the cake.

[Mottmott]

I was in despair when I lost my copy of out of print Mother Wonderful. When I finally found a place that still had it, I bought 2!

[Suzanne F]

Cheesecake is one of those foods that HWOE says he will eat only once a year (others being tiramisu, creme brulee, foie gras, cheese danish, brioche, brioche french toast, brioche bread pudding . . . ). Of course, he lies. But for that reason, I haven't made REAL cheesecake in years. Sigh. Occasionally a ricotta version -- delicious, but just not as satisfying.

Those times when I have made it, I almost always used recipes from the NY Times. They had a chocolate-espresso version, mmmmmmm. And "The Ultimate Cheesecake" -- about which John Thorne has a piece, saying that to him, it isn't. But to me, it's pretty close, with ground, toasted hazelnuts. And finally, savory versions, including one that's supposed to have . . . drumroll, please . . . bacon. (But I found that substituting sauteed onions and ground toasted walnuts were not bad. Not as good as bacon, but.

[alacarte]

Great article, Andrea. More, please!

Is the cheesecake photo one of your creations?

[bloviatrix]

Is the cheesecake photo one of your creations?

I cannot take credit for the photo. I tried to borrow a digital camera from friends but like all best laid plans, it didn't happen.

[Anna N]

Thanks for a delightful piece on cheese cake.

I admit that it took me years to even taste this "cake" because it sounded so odd - cheese and cake didn't go together in my limited experience. Now it's a rare treat but rare only because I eat far too much when the opportunity arises.

Damn, I may have to break down and make one soon.

[David94928]

When I make a New York style cheesecake I always remove it from the oven for cooling (although I have a Lemon Cheescake receipe that I use that cools the cake in the oven for an hour). How I eliminate cracking is to run a paring knife around the edge about five minutes after removing from the oven. That way as it cools and shrinks the edges are free to move with the rest of the cake. Otherwise if the edges cling to the pan, the weakest part (the center) begins to give way and crack.

The most exotic cheescake I ever made was a white chocolate and hazelnut one. A lot of work to produce as you have to make a hazelnut praline for both the crust and to add to the batter, but oh so good. I haven't made one in more than 10 years. The receipe came from "The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook".

I used to be more interested in flavored cheescakes (such as chocolate cheesecake) but have in recent times come to appreciate the elegance of the straight forward, no topping New York cheesecake.

The hard-to-find bookseller Alibris http://www.alibris.com/ has used copies of "Mother's Wonderful Cheesecakes and Other Goodies" starting $48.89.

David

[bloviatrix]

The hard-to-find bookseller Alibris http://www.alibris.com/ has used copies of "Mother's Wonderful Cheesecakes and Other Goodies" starting $48.89.

Does this mean I have to lock up my copy? Or have it insured?

[I82Much]

Regarding the cracking, according to the book, in order to prevent cracking you should put your cheesecake directly in the refrigerator from the oven.

I find the exact opposite to be true. The one time I deviated from my standard procedure, the cheesecake cracked. All the other times I do my standard thing (leave cheesecake in turned off oven overnight, refrigerate in the morning), it comes out perfect.

Cheesecakes are becoming my specialty; in fact I just had my boss at work (completely unrelated to food) hire me to make one for a coworker's return from maternity leave on June 18th..

nothing better or more impressive to friends lol. at least at my age

[NulloModo]

Here is a question:

How do you all feel about the balance of creaminess/cheesiness to sweetness in a cheesecake? I personally find the ultra-sweet sugary varieties to be off-putting, and much prefer a slightly tarter, creamier product with less overall sugar content. Some of the best cheese cakes I have had really brought out the natural savoriness in the cream cheese/mascarpone/ricotta (whatever was used), and possibly one of the very best featured pumpkin and almost no sugar at all, for a product that was definately desert-like, but would most likely not be considered sweet by most diners.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Here is a question:

How do you all feel about the balance of creaminess/cheesiness to sweetness in a cheesecake? I personally find the ultra-sweet sugary varieties to be off-putting, and much prefer a slightly tarter, creamier product with less overall sugar content. Some of the best cheese cakes I have had really brought out the natural savoriness in the cream cheese/mascarpone/ricotta (whatever was used), and possibly one of the very best featured pumpkin and almost no sugar at all, for a product that was definately desert-like, but would most likely not be considered sweet by most diners.

I certainly agree with you on not liking the very sweet versions of cheesecake .. far prefer to taste the cream cheese itself, with a touch of vanilla, a little sugar, and the buttery richness of the butter cookie crust. I don't add any lemon or other citrus, because I prefer it to be smooth, dense, and creamy, but not even slightly tart ....

[NulloModo]

Hmmm.... Buttery, rich, creamy, hints of vanilla... I'm being inspired to try out making a bourbon cheesecake this weekend.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Hmmm.... Buttery, rich, creamy, hints of vanilla... I'm being inspired to try out making a bourbon cheesecake this weekend.

The buttery, rich, and creamy qualities make for my "purist" vision of the proper cheesecake but, now that I think of it, a dash of bourbon might actually enhance, rather than detract from, the beauty of the dessert. Please fill us in on the delicious denouement of this!

[Joni]

Was there a recipe for cheesecake in this article that somehow I missed??

[Gifted Gourmet]

Was there a recipe for cheesecake in this article that somehow I missed??

I didn't see one either, Joni, and just checked recipeGullet with similar results. Perhaps Andrea, bloviatrix, will provide us hungry people with one shortly??

[bloviatrix]

Here is the recipe from Mother Wonderful for Basic Lime-Almond Cheesecake, in my words. (she provides quantities for both 8" and 10", I'm only giving 10")

Preheat oven to 350. Wrap the 10" springform pan in heavy duty aluminum foil.

Crust

1/4 pound (1 stick) butter, melted

2 cups finely ground cookie crumbs

1/4 cup sugar

1)Combine butter, crumbs and sugar until thoroughly mixed.

2)Press small amounts of the crumb mixture all the way up the sides of the springform. Press the remaining amount into the bottom. It's easiest to this by using a plastic bag as a glove.

Filling

2 pounds cream cheese

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

pinch of salt

4 large eggs

1)Cut cream cheese into cubes. Using the paddle, beat at high speed for 5 minutes (you might want to drape the mixer with a towel because cheese sometimes get spit out).

2) Scrape down the sides and add sugar and beat for another 2 minutes.

3) Add lime juiceand salt, mix on slow just to combine

4) With mixer on slow, add eggs one at a time until just combined

5) Pour batter into crust and bake in oven (center rack) for 55 minutes

6)Remove from oven and let cake rest for 10 minutes.

Sour Cream Glaze

2 cups sour cream

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon almond extract

1) Combine all ingredients in a bowl and using a rubber spatula, spread glaze over top of filling.

2)Return to 350 degree oven for 10 minutes

3)Place immediately in fridge to cool

When serving don't forget to take cake out a little before so it loses a bit of it's chill. Plus it's easier to remove the sides.