Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Sign in to follow this  
Margaret Pilgrim

Ice Cream in Paris

Recommended Posts

We chuckled at the lengthy lines snaking down the street from Berthillon's window. We were heading, instead, to Damman's in the fifth. We were introduced to Dammon's when they operated the ice cream concession wagon in the Place du Carrousel. Originally domiciled on rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Damman last fall moved to it current sleek and modern shop on the corner of Grande Degres and Maitre Albert.

While my husband won't budge from their Bulgarian Youart flavor, I have become addicted to the new and seriously good caramel aux beurre sel .

In addition, the service is hospitable and the clientele from the neighborhood.


eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not familiar with Damman, but I've always considered Berthillon to be very good for France. I've never felt that it was at all in the same league with the best Italian artisanal gelati. Do you have a view as to how Damman compares?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please forgive "Dammana"; the name is Damman's. Sometimes my fingers stutter.

[NB: The topic title has been edited from the ealier typo to reflect the correct spelling of the shop. This explains some of the comments above.]

Ice cream is a very personal thing. I have only tasted Berthillon's product a few times, but have not been particularly impressed with it. It has been little or no better than, or not as good as, what we make at home. I also objected to the cattle-lot queues and brusque order filling.

It's not possible for me to compare Damman and Berthillon, head to head, flavor for flavor. I will say that I have never had a disappointing cup at Damman's, which I can't say for Berthillon. Damman's ice creams, as opposed to sorbets, are intensely flavored, rich and "chewable".

Since there is no long line at Damman, a cheerful counterperson, often Mr. Damman himself, and comfortable seats for enjoying your purchase, I'd encourage you to drop by and do a taste test for yourself! :wink:


eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to agree about having been dissapointed with Berthillon.

It's funny, Margaret, that you mention the "carmel au beurre sel" flavor, as I also discovered this flavor last summer at our favorite ice cream place in Lyon, Nardonne. Anyway, next time I do have ice cream in Paris it will be at Damman's. Thank you for the tip.

-Lucy


Edited by bleudauvergne (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It's not possible for me to compare Damman and Berthillon, head to head, flavor for flavor.

I was also curious, as a frame of reference, as to how you would compare it to the best Italian gelati.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been hooked on carmel au beurre sel since I first tasted the Gwenn Ha Du brand caramels in a pastry shop in Brittany some years back. The flavor seems to have taken off in France and become fashionable. Pierre Hermé's salt butter caramel macaron in Paris being a great example.


Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I seem to recall there's a 'critical mass' (unfortunate turn of phrase) of ice cream places on Rue Mouffetard, is Damman's the one that shapes your scoop into a rose? I actually bought one of those Italian flat scoops in order to try this myself but haven't gotten around to doing it yet...

Berthillon is not disappointing, just over-exposed. Much more humane and better service since the new guard took over.

PS What's Bulgarian yoghurt - how's it different from any other?


Edited by magnolia (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It's not possible for me to compare Damman and Berthillon, head to head, flavor for flavor.

I was also curious, as a frame of reference, as to how you would compare it to the best Italian gelati.

Marcus, we haven't visited Italy in over 20 years :shock: , so my recollections are in no way current. Also, we would need to agree on what is the best Italian gelati, another hurdle. I remember that we used to go to Vivoli in Florence, and while sampling Tre Scalini, we usually headed for Giolitti or della Palma near the Pantheon in Rome.

That said, I remember gelati in Italy to be softer and less dense than Damman's. I think of them as similarly intensely flavored. Since I prefer sorbets to be part of or to end a meal, I seldom order them outside the context of a meal, and so can't speak to them.

Again, my best advice is for you to try Damman's for yourself. Maybe you'll be a convert, and maybe you'll head straight back to Berthillon...or Italy!


Edited by Margaret Pilgrim (log)

eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Margaret, thank you for this recommendation. Although I'm not sure I will be thanking you after a week in Paris -- the apartment we rent is on the rue des Grands Degres, and if the ice cream is half as good as you describe, I won't be able to pass it up every time we pass by!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm not familiar with Dammana, but I've always considered Berthillon to be very good for France. I've never felt that it was at all in the same league with the best Italian artisanal gelati. Do you have a view as to how Damman compares?

Comparing the ice cream in France to gelato in Italy is comparing apples and oranges. The gelato process is completely different, as well as the ingredients. Gelato actually uses NO cream-- and the flavors are added much earlier in the process--

I'm sure I would love Damman's ice cream; but gelato in Italy is a very unique experience!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

at the bottom of rue Mouffetard is Octave, a pretty damn good ice cream maker.

Their dark chocolate is a pure satisfaction for a cocoa addict. Give it a try!


Eddy M., Chef & Owner

Se.ed Artisan Foods, Vancouver BC

Follow Se.ed's growth at: http://spaces.msn.com/members/fromseedtofood/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just tried the Bulgarian yoghurt today at Dammann's (two Ms, two Ns), as well as their honey ice cream. Their taste was reminiscent of Lebanese pastries. Both were very tasty and a great improvement over the tea ice cream I had tasted there a few months ago. I've read in an article that if you order in advance, they can prepare salty ice creams (basil, tomato, etc.) as well as a special champagne ice cream in half litter containers...

As far as I'm concerned, it's Berthillon for fruit based sorbets and Dammann's for ice creams. Only a short walk from one to the other any way!


Edited by admajoremgloriam (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am sorry to disapoint you Margaret, but Dammann's in the 5th is no more. :sad:

I was riding around Paris on one of the new Velibs this past Sunday and stopped at Damman's for an ice cream break only to find a very uninteresting looking tea salon in its place. I asked what had become of Damman's and was told he still has a place in the Tuileries gardens so at least they haven't gone out of business. If I am near the Tuileries in the coming weeks I will keep my eye out.


www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I am sorry to disapoint you Margaret, but Dammann's in the 5th is no more.  :sad:

I was riding around Paris on one of the new Velibs this past Sunday and stopped at Damman's for an ice cream break only to find a very uninteresting looking tea salon in its place.  I asked what had become of Damman's and was told he still has a place in the Tuileries gardens so at least they haven't gone out of business.    If I am near the Tuileries in the coming weeks I will keep my eye out.

I am some 9 months late to respond to your post, Felice. I wish I had seen it earlier as we were devastated to find Damman clossed on our last visit in March. (I tried unsuccessfully to retrieve this thread at the time.) We are very interested in learning whether Dammon continues to make and distribute his fine product in Paris. I am not at all sure that it is available at the ice cream wagon in the Tuileries. For the last year or so it has been hosted by Paul.

Any news of Dammon as we speak?


eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damman's ice creams and sorbets are now served by various restaurants and some cafés. The brand is distributed through the catering/restaurant industry. Personally I'm not a fan. I think Berthillon in France is still unbeated (though not all their flavors are equally successful).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, to be honest I much prefer homemade. :raz: But Damman had become a kind of late-afternoon treat: after slogging all over town much of the day, we'd wind our way to Damman, then take the 24 or 27 straight back to our hotel and a nap. Of course, Berthillon is good. But the line and attitude at Berthillon was such a turn-off that it was always a happy/sad treat. Damman was gentle and civilized.


eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a place to try for gelato in The Marais.

http://www.amorino.fr/

Some of the finest gelato I've had. Perfect mouthfeel and texture. Perfect temp. Wonderful flavors and not overly sweet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Luckygirl, Amorino is actually a chain with locations throughout Paris. I have to say, I don't know anything about their quality or origins and warranted or not, I have stayed away since they were a chain. I know they were discussed previously though.


www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I am sorry to disapoint you Margaret, but Dammann's in the 5th is no more.  :sad: I am not at all sure that it is available at the ice cream wagon in the Tuileries.  For the last year or so it has been hosted by Paul. 

Any news of Dammon as we speak?

I didn't hear about Dammann's prior to reading this post a few days ago. However, we had a (work-related!) picnic in the Tuileries today and we were standing not too far from the fountain that is nearest from the Concorde. There was a Dammann's wagon a few steps away from us.

Unfortunately, we had to leave in a hurry and I forgot to pick up an ice-cream cone... I have no idea of the opening days/hours either, but I can confirm it's there.


Edited by olivier (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks, Luckygirl, Amorino is actually a chain with  locations throughout Paris.  I have to say, I don't know anything about their quality or origins and warranted or not, I have stayed away since they were a chain.  I know they were discussed previously though.

My experience at the Luxembourg Amorino wasn't bad.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

QUOTE(John Talbott

[/quote)

My experience at the Luxembourg Amorino wasn't bad.

Same here with both the Luxembourg and Marais locations. Looking forward to trying Pozzetto this time and comparing. I did not know that Constant makes icecream. I guess that goes on the must-try list...?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ice Cream Update:

There was something about Master Glacier, Philippe Faur, in both Elle and Regale this month. His ice creams sound amazing, using the best products available like milk from a local farm, regional ripe fruit and high-quality chocolates. He has recently teamed up with Petrossian to come up with a caviar ice cream. He also sells online, www.philippefaur.com.

Also, for those who like Gelato, you might want to try Caramella, on 47 rue des Martyrs, Paris 9th, which serves artisanal gelato made the old-fashion way, without stabilizers or preservatives.


www.parisnotebook.wordpress.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another name that I keep stumbling over is Pascal Le Glacier. He was closed the one time we made the trek to his shop in the 16th near La Muette.

Hours (taken off door sign) are 10:30 -19h

Closed Sunday and Monday.

Pascal le Glacier

17 Bois le Vent

01.45.27.61.84


eGullet member #80.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ice Cream Update:

Also, for those who like Gelato, you might want to try Caramella, on 47 rue des Martyrs, Paris 9th, which serves artisanal gelato made the old-fashion way, without stabilizers or preservatives.

Gelato is one of my weaknesses and I stop by Caramella anytime the weather is warm and Rue Martyrs happens to be close by; eventually I will try something other than caramel beurre salé. Caramella's gelato is a natural finish to a pizza repast just up the street at Carmine's.


Edited by Laidback (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...