olivier

Not a dumb question. The fall menu was last served on Dec. 17, it's now the winter menu. I remember it having some truffle, foie gras, maybe scallops... it looked good. For men, the only requirement is to wear a jacket. You don't even have to bring your own, as they'll provide you with one if need be. That said, it may be more comfortable to wear you own. The tie is not mandatory at all.

Re: Ledoyen waiter. I think I see who you're talking about. Well, maybe. Do you know if he worked at Le Cinq circa Legendre before? He was very helpful and really passionate. I really loved the service at l'Arpège, but maybe it was too much a well-oiled machine, with the same jokes being told to - apparently - every other tables, etc.

I believe that's the hare dish they had last year. Julot has posted a photo of it, up there in this thread. It's good, but nothing like a good lièvre à la royale can be. I remember something less gamey, less rich than that.

Back from a dinner at Le Cinq. We had the seasonal menu plus the pithiviers. Everything was absolutely perfect, and not that expensive, given the amount of food and wine we had. Some so-so photos (the room was very dimly lit) here: http://picasaweb.google.fr/miaaampics/LeCinqNov2009

No Lièvre à la Royale during Easter: hunting season ends late February/early March (I'm too lazy to check right now).

Travelling to Brussels is almost easier and faster than going to some parisian suburbs! As for mail order, apparently, it's being distributed by the UK "Natoora". I don't know if the Angus beef you can buy on the French website comes from O'Shea...

Apparently, you can fit the Pithivier in the menu, with a small extra charge. However, as I believe it's a two-service dish, I don't know yet if they would replace two courses from the menu or just one. I hope I'll be able to comment on that soon...

I don't do lunches, so I'm not the most knowledgeable, but your usual suspects for good lunch deals are Le Cinq (78 EUR), Gagnaire (a bit over 100 EUR I believe), Ledoyen (90 EUR or so), Savoy (100 EUR, only with internet reservations), La Grande Cascade (65 EUR, 85 EUR b.i., also available for dinner). Rostang (78 EUR) and Lasserre (65 EUR I I remember correctly), too. You can check on www.viamichelin.com, there's all the info you need.

Same camera+lens, but I used the custom white balance trick you told me about the other day. Oh and at least half of them were taken by my better half! Well, it was only noticeable on certain parts of one slice. I don't think I've ever eaten one that was totally exempt of this defect, except at Stella Maris, but it had other flaws. I guess I should try one of the very good ones...

I was at la Régalade Friday night, and game was all over the menu. Had the Lièvre à la Royale, a bit expensive for the place (+20 EUR on a 30,5 EUR menu), but well worth it. Two thick slices instead of one, that's one of the reasons why I love this restaurant so much. Oh, and the fact that it was very good, too. Other photos of the meal here: http://picasaweb.google.com/miaaampics/LaRegalade30102009

Been there a few months ago, for dinner. We didn't take the tasting menu (360 EUR), but did our own by splitting every dish. We had at least as much (and probably even more) food for much much less. 3 starters, 2 mains, cheese and 2 desserts ended costing us around 250EUR/pp for food alone. If you factor in all the amuse-bouche and mignardise, etc., we're talking about a BIG meal.

Anyone tried the one they serve at Au Bascou? Simon raves about it every year (well, he did in 2008 and 2009), but that still isn't enough for me to go there!

That would be a big plus for me, not a downside! Are you from the US? I'm asking because I ate rhubarb twice in the US last year, at two different places (JG and Ssäm bar, exactly) and I found it too sweet, on the contrary, lacking the sourness I like. I'm not sure if there's a difference in the variety of rhubarb used here and there, or if it's treated in a different way... And, well, maybe the one you had at Le Meurice was really too sour after all.

Interesting. Would you mind sharing which websites you use to order your Chinese tea? And what about the customs? Don't the taxes drive up the cost prohibitively?

Yep, I really can't begin to understand what would be Simon's added value there...

So, Conticini opened his new shop rue du Bac to the public today. Being close to the shop, I went around 1pm. Unfortunately it was too late as most of the individual cakes were already gone. I had already eaten anyway so I just got a tarte Tatin. It was perfectly delicious, with a very thick layer of very soft apples that almost melted in the mouth, placed on a fantastic and fresh puff pastry. They also give you a (relatively) big pot of whipped mascarpone which has hints of lemon and vanilla. Very good, once again. As a Norman, I may prefer the tarte Tatin with more caramelized apples, but regardless on how it should be named, this first taste of Conticini's pastry was very promising. I'll go back later this week to sample a broader range of what he has to offer. The shop in itself is quite original. No big display with cakes aligned next to each other. Instead, there's a round table in the center of the shop, and one sample of each cake is displayed under glass bells. The cakes are ordered to the staff, and then come directly out of the kitchen. It's expensive, of course (it's Paris, its rue du Bac, it's a reknown chef) but not as much as I feared: around 4,5EUR-5EUR for individual ones and around 25EUR for what probably are 6-person cakes. Conticini was actually here. He was delighted about how much he sold, and chatted with the customers. I also took the leaflet with me, so if anyone wants to know what is offered at the shop, I can write the list down!

My sentence probably wasn't clear enough. I was just wondering if when you said "leaving" it was some kind of understatement for "being laid off", more or less, or just that: "leaving". But I guess it's the latter then.

Interesting piece of news! "Leaving" as in "on their own"? I read somewhere that Briffard was not totally happy with some of the staff in the kitchen (could be mistaken, though), so maybe it'll be a good opportunity for him to get things working as he like... provided that he has a real influence on the recruitement process. I don't know how these hotel restaurants work...

Hi, Margaret, I do not know of this one, at least not through its author's name. Where is it made and where do you find it? Actually, I have never found it. I seem to remember that Roellinger switched to Beillevaire from Bordier before finally purportedly making his own. ← The butter is produced in Machecoul (well, I guess...) in Loire Atlantique, and sold at Pascal Beillevaire shops which are present in Brittany, Pays de Loire, Poitou-Charentes and Paris. I also saw his butter at Marie-Anne Cantin's fromagerie last week. I bought some once, and found it really good indeed, and closer to Norman butters than Charentais ones, but I don't remember it that well. edit: Pascal Beillevaire has got a website which lists of his shops' locations http://www.pascalbeillevaire.net/

One question that some (like julot) may be able to answer: when is (or isn't) Passard in the kitchen? Like is he there (almost) for sure on certain days of the weeks? Is he more often present for lunch/dinner? Or maybe there's no discernable pattern?

You're welcome. I guess I like to spoil other people's pleasure!

Julot, I tried to look up Kitune in Google, but I couldn't find it. Did you mean Kifune instead ? Kifune 44, Rue St Ferdinand 75017 Paris TIA ← I know, I'm not julot, but yes, that's the one.

Yes, exactly, just behind Benkay. Oh and I forgot to add one thing that made it feel strange: the restaurant was almost totally empty the night we were there, and an empty room always makes me sad, somehow (when the food is good).

(About Chen) I remembered your so-so experience. But the meal I had was just great, and the duck my neighbours had looked like no other. In fact, the way that the breed of the duck itself is a cross Peking-Challans is very emblematic of the restaurant, itself very crossover. The skin was incredibly crispy (I could hear it when the captain was carving it) and the meat was still pink (which is why they cook it further, in the wok). I never had any doubt about whether I liked the duck or not. When I went, it was exactly as you say: ultra crisp skin that makes you giggle of joy when you hear it being carved, very good meat with appropriate cooking, and a very tasty stock to end. And somehow, its price seems about right. On the contrary, I found the starters quite expensive, like the crab and zucchini flowers, which is good, but maybe not 35 EUR good (I think it was the price). Wines were awfully expensive, too. I remember having a hard time chosing finding a bottle that was not much over 100 EUR (but the one we had was being quite good, I must admit). The service is worth the visit. I wouldn't be able to say if it's good or bad, it just felt awkward. I was with my in-laws, which maybe enhanced this impression, but still. I think I'll want to go back someday...

It's strange, because just after I went, I thought I didn't really like the restaurant. However, with hindsight, the more I think about it, the more I think the place has a purpose, and might actually be enjoyable. That said, I find it too expensive, I remember prices that weren't that much cheaper than some 3-stars restaurants. How much does the lunch menu cost, by the way?