Which US President Would Make The Best eGulleteer?

[MiguelCardoso]

This entertaining article by Jonathan Reynolds in the NYT Magazine, though espousing a proletarian cafeteria theory, got me thinking about the gastronomic habits of American presidents. Since it's a subject I know zilch about, I was wondering if the "cognoscenti" in the Washington forum might enlighten me. If you had to choose to have lunch with one American president, based on biographical information or just an inspired hunch, who would you prefer? (You wouldn't have to talk to him if you didn't want to, just eat the food he served - not necessarily at formal dinners. I'm also talking snacks and sandwiches here!)

[wesza]

My vote would go to Americas original eGulleter.

Thomas Jefferson

Irwin

[Mark Sommelier]

Irwin, you beat me to the punch. I would love to have lunch with Thomas Jefferson in Bordeaux. Lamproie a la Bordelaise, Daube de Boeuf, a good claret.

Nixon used to eat cottage cheese and ketchup. Reagan liked the chili at Chasen's. Old George Bush dined frequently at Peking Gourmet on Leesburg Pike. I'm with TJ.

[MiguelCardoso]

Are you talking Kentucky straight whiskey here, Irwin? I hear Jefferson practically invented it, bless him. This apart from being the all-round-most-perfect-person who ever lived - even despite Nick Nolte! :)

I think (Bush "fils" excepted, that renegade bastid!) all American presidents served a good drink and a fine cocktail. Perhaps Nixon was too Scotch-heavy. JFK, however, the Bay of Pigs notwithstanding, knew his Cohibas and his Daiquiris so he'd be my choice drink-wise.

For the record, I did search for White House kitchen/cuisine/chefs stuff but all I came up with were out-of-print Amazon books and silly classroom fodder.

Hence the innocent question - who were the real foodies?

I once chanced to be having dinner in a Portuguese restaurant, Porto de Santa Maria when Bill Clinton came in with a few friends. I'm sad to say that, though he did choose well food-wise (he had the sea bass roasted in salt), he drank Diet Coke with his meal. This was a great disappointment to me.

[wesza]

Irwin, you beat me to the punch. I would love to have lunch with Thomas Jefferson in Bordeaux. Lamproie a la Bordelaise, Daube de Boeuf, a good claret.

Nixon used to eat cottage cheese and ketchup. Reagan liked the chili at Chasen's. Old George Bush dined frequently at Peking Gourmet on Leesburg Pike. I'm with TJ.

Mark:

I get to go first, especially since I've got the White Hair naturally without the Wig.

I never could figure out Tom Jefferson's age since every picture that I'm familiar with shows him looking older then expected.

Served "Humphrey", at the Four Seasons Restaurant in NYC at what was considered the first $1.000.00 Dollar luncheon a Bowl of Tomato Soup and a Turkey Sandwich with Lettuce and Mayo at the request of the Seceret Service. As far as i'm concerned since I tasted it, that was the best Tomato Soup I ever tasted. Ditto for the Loaf of White Bread we Baked and the Turkey sent from a farm in New Jersey.

JFK was a very sophisticated eater and was willing to taste and experiment with different dishes. It was a very moving experience to serve Jacqueline at her first public appearence the exact menu that they enjoyed previously at his birthday. Everyone who had the privelege to work that night at the "Four Seasons" was effected, even more so since she was taken in through the kitchen to avoid the media, and thanked us personally.

Irwin

[docsconz]

Should anyone have any doubts a visit to and tour of Monticello would confirm Mr. Jefferson's place at the head of the table of American Presidents. I'm not sure anyone else can approach him. Monticello is a treasure of 18th & 19th century agricultural ingenuity and culinaria, fully reflective of his interests, expertise and genius.

[Mabelline]

Yep, Thomas Jefferson. Then LBJ for Tex, and Jacqueline's table for style and finesse.

And if you really disliked someone, reputedly Eleanor Roosevelt or Mamie Eisenhower's dishes offered!

[Mayhaw Man]

I think (Bush "fils" excepted, that renegade bastid!) all American presidents served a good drink and a fine cocktail. Perhaps Nixon was too Scotch-heavy. JFK, however, the Bay of Pigs notwithstanding, knew his Cohibas and his Daiquiris so he'd be my choice drink-wise.

Actually, with the exception of dinner wine, the White House was pretty much dry during the Carter Administration.

On the other hand, FDR took great joy in mixing martinis for his guest and political cronies and Truman was from a long line of Senators who had developed their political drinking habits in the Capitol building after hours in back offices with other Senate members. He sontinued to enjoy this habit after he occupied the White House by inviting his Senate buddies over in the late afternoons.

I do have a little personal experience in the White House drinking department. One of our first out of state distributorships at Abita Beer was in DC. Some of the staffers in the Bush White House began to have it stocked on a regular basis. WHile all of the principles at the brewery pretty much qualified for bomb throwing libs, I did take a certain pride in knowing that I was making beer that was being consumed in the White House.

And then there was US Grant. The man enjoyed wee dram at just about any hour of the day or night..

As far as food goes there was the corpulent Chester A. Arthur. I don't know if the guy was a gourmet, but he sure liked to eat.

Probably in the twentieth century the Kennedys qualify as the only true gourmets. They, for the first time in history, bagged the Navy chefs who run the White House Food Service in favor of a french guy. This caused much furor among meat and potato advocates, but the guy stuck around and took the food up to a new level. Previous to Kennedy, the White House Mess seemed to take great pride in serving pretty dull and unimaginative fare, as the general thought seemed to be that that was what "average Americans" ate. Infact, the food was so plain, that even mid westerners like the Trumans constantly complained about the quality of the food. Truman was well known for his early morning strolls out of the front gates of the White House to restaurants located in nearby hotels.

Bill Clinton was a guy that liked to eat, but his favorites were Southern type food, definitely not gourmet fare. He has repeatedly said in interviews that he would rather eat at Doe's Eat Place (either location) than anywhere else. He regularly had cans of tamales (yes, I said cans -they are shipped to go in coffee cans) shipped to the White House during his administration and several, now famous, interviews took place at the Doe's location in Little Rock (Clinton's interview with Rolling Stone conducted by a very loaded Hunter S Thompson comes to mind).

So, with all of this in mind, I think that I would vote for Kennedy as the President most likely to be an egulleteer.

[Jason Perlow]

Lyndon B. Johnson, no question. He'd be holding mass eGullet BBQ events.

EDIT: Although I agree with Irwin that Jefferson was highly food obsessed.

[Mayhaw Man]

When I was a kid BBQ sauce (in a silver gravy boat, no less ) started appearing on our holiday tables thanks to LBJ (good Hill Country boy that he was) and his habit of doing the same. He enjoyed it on his Turkey and as good Southern Democrats we followed his lead. We still do it today. LBJ also enjoyed scotch (at various parts of his life he enjoyed it in excess, apparently), which was a pretty big step considering that he grew up around a bunch of people who were more likely to drink cheap bourbon or homebrew before they drank anything else.

BBQ sauce can cover a multitude of dry turkey sins. I highly reccomend it.

[Jason Perlow]

When I was a kid BBQ sauce (in a silver gravy boat, no less ) started appearing on our holiday tables thanks to LBJ (good Hill Country boy that he was) and his habit of doing the same. He enjoyed it on his Turkey and as good Southern Democrats we followed his lead. We still do it today. LBJ also enjoyed scotch (at various parts of his life he enjoyed it in excess, apparently), which was a pretty big step considering that he grew up around a bunch of people who were more likely to drink cheap bourbon or homebrew before they drank anything else.

BBQ sauce can cover a multitude of dry turkey sins. I highly reccomend it.

However, I've tried to find LBJ's -definitive- BBQ sauce recipe(s) on the web and I have found many, many variations. Some which are simple vinegar table sauces and other which contain ketchup, honey or molasses and are more mopping sauces.

Does anyone know which recipes LBJ actually used at his cookouts?

[Susan in FL]

My hero, TJ, absolutely...

I'm pretty well read on Jefferson and am continually awed by the man. Yes, docsconz, isn't Monticello wonderful. I've been three or four times, and still haven't tired of it.

Not only food and wine-wise and entertainment-wise, etc. would TJ have made a great eGulleteer, but he would love the technology of the computer. He was so far ahead of his time, even with his little inventions, like the copier for all the letters he wrote.

[docsconz]

One of the many reasons I chose UVA for my residency was that my wife and I fell in love with Monticello and Charlottesville when we visited for an interview. Monticello is the most incredible historic site I have visited in this country. it provides a real feel for Mr. Jefferson and the multivariate aspects of his life, not the least of which were his agricultural and culinary interests.

[Susan in FL]

One of the many reasons I chose UVA for my residency was that my wife and I fell in love with Monticello and Charlottesville when we visited for an interview. Monticello is the most incredible historic site I have visited in this country. it provides a real feel for Mr. Jefferson and the multivariate aspects of his life, not the least of which were his agricultural and culinary interests.

I extend a virtual hand-shake to you...

[paul mitchell]

I'd have to say Kennedy cause Jacky brought the first french chef into the Big House. But then again Kennedy was probably calling a lot round 7pm saying he had to stay late and do some "extra work" in the Oval Office.

[Mabelline]

Thomas Jefferson is an shining example to me. Reading his correspondences to Lewis and Clark is a real experience in the degrees of minuetae he was interested by new, better, and more useful.

[bilrus]

I would go with Jefferson as well.

There is an interesting nugget in Jacques Pepin's book, The Apprentice that Joe Kennedy wanted to have Pepin hired as the White House Chef, but Pepin turned it down to continue working at Howard Johnson's. Having already been the chef dor deGaulle and other heads of state in France as a member of the navy, he said he didn't fully understand the prestige and celebrity that was involved with being the White House chef.

The one contribution the Clintons made was that Hillary insisted on having an American chef at the urging of Alice Waters and other proponents of American cooking. This was a departure from the standard French chefs in place since the Kennedy administration.

I get the sense that a lot of the direction of food (and social life in general) in the White House is driven by the First Ladies rather than the Presidents themselves.

[Jason Perlow]

I'd have to say Kennedy cause Jacky brought the first french chef into the Big House. But then again Kennedy was probably calling a lot round 7pm saying he had to stay late and do some "extra work" in the Oval Office.

Everything having to do with food in that administration was Jackie's doing... JFK himself was a food ignoramus.

Clinton BTW is a hard core foodie, big time. I would not be surprised if he already reads eGullet.

[Mayhaw Man]

Clinton BTW is a hard core foodie, big time. I would not be surprised if he already reads eGullet.

Well, if that's the case.

Dear Bill,

Please stop telling people about your favorite places to eat in Little Rock. They are no longer cool once they end up in Esquire and in the case of Doe's and a couple of others, they are no longer great because they end up overwhelmed with whatever the current version of yuppies are in LR (although the original is still probably the single best steak house in the US, certainly in the South-damn good tamales too).

While I'm at it, how about giving the Oxford American a little help. They are right on your street in LR and could use a boost. Perhaps you might give some thought ot being an editor or something in your spare time. I know that the DNC is a little short of cash right now, but you could still funnel some really overpriced ads into the magazine and get it back on it's feet. The average readership is pretty much your domographic target voter wise.

Thanks,

Your Pal,

Brooks

p.s.- The check is in the mail (really )

[Mayhaw Man]

I always like to see what ads pop up on an interesting thread. The ads on this one are pretty good.

Everybody needs a Toy President action figure.

[jo-mel]

One of the many reasons I chose UVA for my residency was that my wife and I fell in love with Monticello and Charlottesville when we visited for an interview. Monticello is the most incredible historic site I have visited in this country. it provides a real feel for Mr. Jefferson and the multivariate aspects of his life, not the least of which were his agricultural and culinary interests.

I extend a virtual hand-shake to you...

Mr. Jefferson, without a doubt!

There is even "Thomas Jefferson's Cookbook" by Marie Kimball. Interesting account on his interest in food. His love for peas was mentioned, but interestingly, there is only one recipe --pea soup. No recipes for the pea itself.

(Husband, daughter and two sons. I loved C'ville!!)

[hillvalley]

Clinton BTW is a hard core foodie, big time. I would not be surprised if he already reads eGullet.

When he and Hillary first came to DC, their every dining experience was publicized. The Post's gossip page kept us locals abreast of every place he ate, from the number of pizza's ordered during a battle with the Hill to the newest dining establishment he tried.

During Reagan's administration the biggest foodie news was that he liked jelly beans.

[Pan]

FDR and Eleanor Roosevelt were certainly worldly and came from old money. What kind of cuisine were they eating in the White House?

And if we'd think of broadening this to really important politicians who were never President, Benjamin Franklin would be up there.

[Mayhaw Man]

FDR and Eleanor Roosevelt were certainly worldly and came from old money. What kind of cuisine were they eating in the White House?

And if we'd think of broadening this to really important politicians who were never President, Benjamin Franklin would be up there.

The food in the White House during the FDR administration was a constant source of strain for FDR (although Eleanor didn't seem to mind much as she was apparently not concerned and in fact, during the war years, not even in residence that much). The woman who ran the household and the kitchen at that point (even though the Navy runs the kitchen, the head of household has pretty much always been the one really in charge of non official dining) served the same dull stuff over and over and FDR apparently complained about it constantly and was shot down by Eleanor every time.

Eleanor was well known for wandering down to the gate and grabbing soldiers who had come by to get a look at the boss's house and inviting them in for lunch. The stunned soldiers would come in and sit down to a meat and three (usually) and find out they were eating with Henry Stimson and his daughter, maybe Churchill (who spent a stunning amount of time semi secretly in the White House during WWII). Really hard to imagine that happening today.

I have a great book at home that concerns the at home life of the Roosevelts while they were in the White House (they were there for a very long time-3 1/4 terms). People not related to them actually lived there and there were tons of guests in and out staying for long periods of time. When I get home I will look up some menus as there are some reprints in the book.

[Pan]

Thanks, Brooks. It would be interesting to see those menus.