Per Se

[Jason Perlow]

That came from a thread originally about the French Laundry that was spun off into its own thread here:

Restaurants and eGullet

I can't seem to view this thread. It tells me that this menu has been disabled.

Its in the Site Talk area, which requires 20 posts.

[hshiau]

That came from a thread originally about the French Laundry that was spun off into its own thread here:

Restaurants and eGullet

I can't seem to view this thread. It tells me that this menu has been disabled.

Its in the Site Talk area, which requires 20 posts.

Thanks. I'll try back in 5 minutes after I've hit a few more. .....16!

[robert40]

In about two or three hour's the New York Times review will likely be on line.

Is it anyone's guess that it will be Per Se?

[agno]

It's gonna be "V" steakhouse tonight. Bruni's only been to Per Se twice. I'd bet he goes one more time.

Edited July 13, 2004 by agno (log)

[robert40]

It's gonna be "V" steakhouse tonight. Bruni's only been to Per Se twice. I'd bet he goes one more time.

I'm not so sure as the review is not up yet and this is the first time sense Mr. Bruni took over that the review is not included with the rest of the food page.

[Fat Guy]

Still no review on the Times site, but all the industry buzz since Monday has been that it will be a one or two star review of V this week. Did anybody catch the NY1 preview earlier this evening? I missed it.

Edited to add: One star for V; http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/14/dining/14REST.html

[Stone]

Mr. Vongerichten, who has reached the kind of celebrity status that accommodates ellipticity

I aspire to the day that I accomodate ellipicity.

[jsfein]

Daniel --

How was your dinner on July 4th? Anything to add to the reviews that have been posted?

[Stone]

Since I haven't had time to write up my dinner from last week, may I post some bullet points:

1) Decor: Not nearly as comfortable as French Laundry. I didn't like the two teired effect -- it was like a diner theater. And the dark brown wook reminded me of the faux wood paneling my parents put up in the 70's.

2) Service: Excellent. Really great, nice, attentative, knowledgable.'

3) Oysters and Pearls: A little more salty than I remembered, and my sabayon looked like the eggs might have curdled (proper terms?) slightly. Not as creamy as I remembered. But still lovely.

3.5) Pea soup. Sister ordered it. Perhaps the best pea soup I've ever had. You know how people talk about a great dish that captures the essence of an ingredient? This is it. most pea soup is thick, heavy and hearty. (Not a bad thing at all.) This was more of a gazpaucho and served cool. Each spoonful was like biting into a perfect, crisp sweet sugarsnap pea.

4) foie gras. Terrific. A good size slice of foie (they had foie in addition to torchon), wonderfully crispy on the outside and smoth and soft inside. The piece left a wonderful effervensence in the roof of the mouth. It accomodated ellipicity.

5) Hawaiin Moi. Perhaps the most "Californian" dish. A beautifully cooked small filet of flaky, moist fish. the outside was crisp and the inside tender. My criticism is that it sat atop an overpoweringly citrus sauce. Most people would probably enjoy that.

6) Lobster. Not as good as Peas & Carrots. But not bad. Truffles good.

7) Sweetbreads. After my Babbo experience, I had to substitute the sweetbreads for the rabbit. They were terrific. Three cubes of glazed sweetbreads, about the size of large dice. They were seated atop perfect rounds of firm fried green tomatoes. The combination was wonderful. The sweetbreads had a similar flavor to those at Babbo, but not as strong.

7.5) Duck breast and foie gras. Sister ordered this even though she doesn't like either. Good for me. I never understood the ravings about duck breast, and I though this was just an average dish. The meat was tender and tasty, but nothing to rave about. The skin was not crisp at all. The second serving of foie bordered on decadence, but what's wrong with that?

8) Beef. The memory is failing here. So did the dish. Well, a little. It was a biscotti shaped slice of beef with a small amount of broth and vegetables. My piece was well done -- when it was delivered, I thought it had been braised. When I looked at my friend's servings, I saw that theirs was beautifully rosy red. I should have sent it back, but didn't. It still tasted great.

8.5) Edit to add the cheese. I'm embarrased that I can't remember what kind of cheese it was. But it was probably the best cheese presentation I've had. The dish was rectangular, with a shallow bowl. A rectangular slice of cheese sat in the middle, just covered with bright yellow olive oil and a small sprinkling of chopped herbs. Slices of beautiful, black-purple olives had been taken and laid in the olice oil, curved side up so that they looked like small dops of balsamic vinegar. The combination was exquisite to look at and wonderful to eat.

9) Desserts: Much better than I remember at French Laundry. More on those later.

Edited July 14, 2004 by Stone (log)

[robyn]

3.5)  Pea soup.  Sister ordered it.  Perhaps the best pea soup I've ever had.  You know how people talk about a great dish that captures the essence of an ingredient?  This is it.  most pea soup is thick, heavy and hearty.  (Not a bad thing at all.)  This was more of a gazpaucho and served cool.  Each spoonful was like biting into a perfect, crisp sweet sugarsnap pea. 

Just an aside. I make cold pea soup when I have leftover frozen sugar snap peas. Simmer the peas in a good chicken stock/bullion until cooked. Puree in the Cuisinart. Strain through a strainer (mashing down with a spoon). Chill. Serve with a dollop of cream fraiche or sour cream. What kind of spicing did you detect in the Per Se pea soup (I'm always looking to improve on a good thing)? Robyn

[BarbaraD]

Four of us had dinner at Per Se last night. The service was exceptional and the food superb. We all had the nine course tasting menu. Aside from the dishes mentioned, two of us had cucumber soup and two radish soup. Of course, we switched halfway through. The consenus was that the radish soup had the edge. We sat close to the private room, but not at the window. Wonderful evening.

[Pan]

Barbara, did you all like the desserts as well as you liked the savory courses?

Edited July 21, 2004 by Pan (log)

[hshiau]

Four of us had dinner at Per Se last night.  The service was exceptional and the food superb.  We all had the nine course tasting menu.  Aside from the dishes mentioned, two of us had cucumber soup and two radish soup.  Of course, we switched halfway through.  The consenus was that the radish soup had the edge.  We sat close to the private room, but not at the window.  Wonderful evening.

Is the dining room still half empty? A friend went 2 weeks ago and commented that there were more wait staff than customers.

We are having dinner there with another couple this Saturday evening. Interestingly enough, Per Se called to confirm just now. I thought I was supposed to call 2 days in advance?!?!

Edited July 21, 2004 by hshiau (log)

[BarbaraD]

By the time desserts came, we were so full of food and wine we couldn't really appreciate them. It seemed that they just kept coming. The last thing I remember was a creme brulee that I couldn't even touch. We were there for 4 1/2 hours. The restaurant was full. Quite a dining experience.

[Achai]

This morning around 10:30am got a call from Per Se people asked do we like to have a table for 12:45pm spot, though we are on waiting list but 2 hours before the meal that was bit rush. Anyway we like Per Se so much so...

This is the 2nd meal we had at Per Se.

We ordered chef's tasting menu and vegetable tasting menu(my good man).

Except pork shoulder I love everything.

Compared with what we experienced at JG 2 weeks ago, I think Per Se deserves 3+ stars( I am no foodie person though ).

Funny,Last time we did extened menu and we were pretty full, this time only 9 courses and I almost could not stomatch all of them( too much those wonderful breads maybe )!

When mentioned to our service lady that we are kind of crazy about their bread,she told us that Per Se is going to open a store down stair in fall.

The store will carry all those wonderful breads and chocolates ...ect,.

Exact opening time is uncertain yet but they are working on it.

People no longer have to wait 2 months to have a taste of Per Se in very near future.

[Achai]

Sorry!

I mean 4+ stars!

[cupcake250]

any thoughts on the per se review in wednesday's Sun???

cupcake

[robert40]

cupcake250,

So what was the low down on the Sun review? Good or Bad.

[Cpalms]

I thought everyone would like to see the menu from a recent meal at Per Se. It was the Chef's Tasting (do not call it 2x2) with wine pairings. It was more extraordinary than I could possible express in words. I hope nobody at Per Se gets upset that i'm posting this.

The Two menu's and wine pairings......

CHEF’S TASTING MENU - MENU 1

July 22,2004

____________________________________________________________

CHILLED SWEET CORN SOUP

with Summer Truffle Salad and "Beurre Noisette"

•

"OYSTERS AND PEARLS"

"Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters

and Iranian Ossetra Caviar

•

CRAB SALAD

with Melon "Purée"

•

PICKLED HEN EGG

with Périgord Truffle "Pop Tart"

•

SALAD OF HAWAIIAN HEARTS OF PALM

Roasted Heirloom Beets and Périgord Truffle Vinaigrette

•

HAND CUT TAGLIATELLE

with Black Périgord Truffles

•

GRILLED PAVÉ OF SOUTH FLORIDA COBIA

Braised Swiss Chard and Swiss Chard Ribs "en Ravigote,"

Caramelized Cipollini Onions and Mustard Seed Emulsion

•

PAN ROASTED MAINE SCALLOP

Caramelized Water Chestnuts, Hen-of-the-Wood Mushrooms

and Madras-Curry" Gastrique"

•

CAVENDISH FARMS’ "CAILLE EN CRÉPINETTE"

Simmered Gooseberries and Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach

•

ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM "SELLE D’AGNEAU RÔTIE ENTIÈRE"

"Rissolée" of New Crop Potatoes, English Peas

and Stewed Morel Mushrooms

•

RONCAL

Rosemary Honey Glazed Mission and Genoa Figs

with Roasted Sweet Peppers

and Rosemary-Balsamic Vinaigrette

•

MOULIN DES PENITENTS

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL ICE CREAM

with Chocolate Pudding

•

PERSIAN LIME SORBET

Vanilla Braised Pineapple

and Haas Avocado "Coulis"

•

"CREAMSICLE"

Orange-Scented Vanilla Ice Cream

with Valrhona Chocolate Crunch

•

"TENTATION AU CHOCOLAT, NOISETTE ET LAIT"

Milk Chocolate "Crémeux," Hazelnut "Streusel"

with Condensed Milk Sorbet, "Sweetened Salty Hazelnuts"

and "Pain au Lait" Sauce

"MIGNARDISES"

COFFEE, TEA AND INFUSIONS

CHEF’S TASTING MENU - Menu 2

July 22, 2004

____________________________________________________________

CHILLED FENNEL-SAFFRON SOUP

with Fennel Salad

•

CAULIFLOWER "PANNA COTTA"

with Island Creek Oyster Glaze

and Iranian Ossetra Caviar

•

COD CHEEKS

with Tea Noodles and Daikon Radish

•

WHITE TRUFFLE OIL-INFUSED CUSTARD

with "Ragoût" of Périgord Truffles

•

CARAMELIZED BELGIAN ENDIVE

Curried "Brunoise" of Banana, Cutting Celery

and "Gastrique de Vinaigre de Clos Chatart"

•

SWEET CORN "AGNOLOTTI"

Fresh Summer Beans, Pickled Red Peppers

and Corn Pudding

•

SAUTÉED FILET OF ATLANTIC HALIBUT

Toy Box Tomatoes, Patty Pan Squash, Opal Basil

and Pickled Garlic-Preserved Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

•

NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER "CUIT SOUS VIDE"

Cherry Tomatoes, Crispy Squash Blossoms

and "Sauce Pistou"

•

ALL DAY BRAISED EDEN FARMS’ BERKSHIRE PORK SHOULDER

Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach, Poached Bing and Rainier Cherries

with Pork "Jus"

•

SNAKE RIVER FARMS "CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILLÉE"

Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms, Yukon Gold Potato "Gnocchi,"

Fava Beans, Crispy Bone Marrow and "Sauce Bordelaise"

•

BELLWETHER FARMS’ PECORINO AND RICOTTA RAVIOLI

Armando Manni "Per Mio Figlio" Extra Virgin Olive Oil

"Al Profumo del Chianti"

•

GARDEN THYME-INFUSED ICE CREAM

Chocolate "Tuile," Fleur de Sel

and Moulin Des Pénitents Extra Virgin Olive Oil

•

OLD CHATHAM SHEEP’S MILK YOGURT SORBET

Coriander "Sablé," Mint "Gelée" and Carrot-Melon Soup

•

"CREAMSICLE"

Orange-Scented Vanilla Ice Cream with Valrhona Chocolate Crunch

•

"DÉCLINAISON AU CHOCOLAT ET AU CAFÉ"

Valrhona Chocolate Brownie, Milk Chocolate Ganache,

Coffee Ice Cream and Caramel Chocolate "Croustillant"

"MIGNARDISES"

COFFEE, TEA AND INFUSIONS

Wine Accompaniment

Thursday, July 22, 2004

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Blancs de Blancs, "Cuis," 1er Cru MV

La Crotta, Muscat, Chambave Valle d'Aoste 2002

Sato No Homare, "Pride of the Village," Junmai Ginjo

Clelia Romano, Fiano di Avellino, "Colli di Lapio" 2002

Ostertag, Pinot Gris, Zellberg 2001

Egon Müller, Riesling, "Scharzhofberger," Spatlese Mosel 2001

Prager, Riesling "Klaus," Smaragd, Wachau 2000

Marcassin, Chardonnay, "Hudson Vineyard 1996

Paul Pernot Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet 1998

Andre Perret, Condrieu "Coteaux de Chery" 2001

Turley, "White Coat" San Luis Obispo 2002

Moccagatta, Barbaresco, "Bric Balin," Piedmont 1999

J.L. Chave, St. Joseph, "Offerus," Rhone Valley 2001

Calvet-Thunevin, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2001

Messmer, Gewurztraminer, Spätlese, Pfalz 2001

Forteto della Luja, Moscato Passito, Loazzolo 1999

La Choulette, "Framboise," France

Mas Amiel Maury MV

[docsconz]

Wow!

Who chose the wine pairings? If you don't mind my asking, were financial parameters given for the wine pairings? There are some heavy hitters on that list. How did the pairings work?

[Pork Neck]

Menu #2 is the most appealing i've seen from either the French Laundry or Per Se. Care to elaborate on any of the highlight dishes?

[oakapple]

I thought everyone would like to see the menu from a recent meal at Per Se. It was the Chef's Tasting (do not call it 2x2) with wine pairings. It was more extraordinary than I could possible express in words. I hope nobody at Per Se gets upset that i'm posting this.....

Ah, the mysteries of Per Se! Can you clarify what you ordered, and what it cost? You've listed two different fifteen-course tasting menus. My impression is that the "regular" menu offers a single nine-course tasting menu every day. However, if you ask for it, you can pay more for what's variously been described as a 1x1, a 2x2, or a VIP menu. What did you do?

[bloviatrix]

Last night was my dinner at Per Se. Wow. It was unbelievable.

There were 3 in my party. Blovie and I had the vegetable tasting menu. My brother had the 5 course prix fixe. In addition, we did the wine pairing with each course. Unfortunately, because we finished dining near 2 am I forgot to ask for a copy of our menu (I called and asked that they send it to me). Our reservation was called for 9:45, but we arrived a bit early and were seated right away. (btw, the dining room was full when we arrived but we were the last to leave)

There were a couple of dishes that were absolutely transcendent. The first being the corn soup with corn salad. The soup bowl came out with the corn salad piled in the middle and then one of the servers poured a pale thick yellow liquid over it. The result was lick-your-bowl good. Imagine the taste of butter almond crunch without the almonds - that's what the soup tasted like -- sweet with caramel/butter flavor. The soup had a great silky texture and the corn kernels added some pop. The salad part included what I think was celery leaf which had a bit of astrigency to it and prevented the whole thing from becoming cloying. At the same time my brother received his corn agnolotti which he also raved about. The sighs of pleasure coming from our table were quite loud.

Next outstanding dish was the mushrooms. The problem is I can't remember what mushrooms they were. But again, we were ooing and aahing (my brother had a dish with mushrooms at this point as well and he loved his just as much)

The finally trascendent dish for me was the first dessert - a white chocolate and yogurt sorbet with beets and coco nibs. The yogurt was cool and slightly tart. But the beets were sweet and the coco nib(which have on their own a mild chocolately taste) beet sauce tasted like excellent dark chocolate. Here too I wanted to lick my place.

One of our earlier courses was a tomato salad with basil sorbet and parmaesan vinagrette and a parmaesan tuile. The sorbet was really good -- refreshing and clean -- and it's something that I want to try to make.

I cannot remember the names of the wines and am not really equipped to discuss each one. But there were two reds which were really great (my brother got the names of them so he can search them out ).

About the room -- I want to eat there on a night when there's a snow storm. The way the windows overlook the park and with the fireplace, I bet it would be spectacular.

About the service -- I felt so well cared for. I can't remember the name of our captain, but he was a doll (he's one of the NY crew. didn't come from TFL).

Finally, I took a tour of the kitchens. But the time I got there everything had been cleaned up for the night. The chefs had gone and the kitchen was pristine. As my captain showed me around you could sense a pride about the kitchens as he described how they dwarf the ones at TFL. I got a look at the pastry room and the bread and baking area which will also house all the baking operations for Bouchon.

And when we left they presented each of us with a parting snack of macarons. I'm still full so I haven't sampled them yet.

[Varmint]

And when we left they presented each of us with a parting snack of macarons. I'm still full so I haven't sampled them yet.

Ship them to me, then.

[agbaber]

No way! I'm headed over to pick them up.

I wish.