Lisbon Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations

[Eric_Malson]

Molly,

Sorry for such a delay inresponding. My brother got married as soon as I returned and then I changed jobs so things have been a little crazy! My trip was wonderful all the suggestions were great...only one bad night and that was not based on any of the advice from this board. We had amazingly delicious, simple dinners at Gambrius (an assortment of everything...business dinner!), Restaurante Coutada (arroz de corvina and tamboril skewer), O Painel de Alcantara (Hake and Arroz de Garoupa) and Solar dos Nunes(Tamboril skewer and arroz de mariescos) in Lisbon; A Cabrita (Sardinas Assadas...best ever, grilled cuttlefish) in Cacilhas; Restaurante Pereira (Grilled Dorado, Grilled Sea Bass) in Cascais and am happy to report a new find in Cascais...Restaurante Viriato. We had a delicious grilled seafood sampler...more that we could eat (enough for 3!) The service was excellent and prices were reasonable. The address is Av. Vasco da Gama 34. One of our favorite meals of the trip!

Thank you so much for the suggestion to go to El Corte Ingles. I brought home some Azeitao and Serra...unique and truly delicious for fans of strong, nutty cheese. Once again, I appreciate all the advice. If you want more info, just let me know.

Oh, the pastis de belem are truly amazing...must come from the true shop!

Best,

Jenny

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I'm so glad you liked A Cabrita in Cacilhas! I have always thought that was worth the trip--that ferry ride is really lovely in nice weather. I'm glad to hear that it seems the sardinhas there are as good as ever, and it had slipped my mind how good their chocos grelhados were. The next time, you really HAVE to try the bacalhau com natas!

[kai-m]

I will be in Lisbon next week for 3 nights and since I've never been there I would be very thankful for some reccomendations...

...what Iam looking for is all kinds of nice bars to hang out at night, and restaurants from great "authentic portugese neighbourhood food" to "fine dining" in the sense of "haute-cuisine-refined-portugese-dishes".

I was thinking about the newly 1*-awarded "eleven" but it looks pretty "slick" and "nouveau riches", judging from the website (and the cook, named Koerber, is a german).

Anybody been there?

Thanks!

kai

[PauloR]

I will be in Lisbon next week for 3 nights and since I've never been there I would be very thankful for some reccomendations...

...what Iam looking for is all kinds of nice bars to hang out at night, and restaurants from great "authentic portugese neighbourhood food" to "fine dining" in the sense of "haute-cuisine-refined-portugese-dishes".

I was thinking about the newly 1*-awarded "eleven" but it looks pretty "slick" and "nouveau riches", judging from the website (and the cook, named Koerber, is a german).

Anybody been there?

Thanks!

kai

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Eleven is a nice place, and one of my favourite restaurants in Lisbon.

The chef Joachim Koerper, is german, but he lives in Spain.

The food is mediterranian/portuguese.

I don't think that is a "new rich" restaurant, but I agrre that it looks "Slick".

My favourite in Lisbon area is Fortaleza do Guincho, in Cascais, ( Praia do Guincho 27 km from Lisbon )

http://www.guinchotel.pt/portugues/index.htm

Fortaleza do Guincho is a charm hotel, and the owner is Mr Stanley Ho, from Hong Kong.

The hotel antique furniture and decoration, was recently changed to a strange chinese style

"Refined" Portuguese Food.....

http://www.terreiropaco.com/

Regional portuguese food in Lisbon.

http://solardosnunes.restaunet.pt/

Restaurante Adega da Tia Matilde.

telf. 217972172

Edited June 15, 2006 by PauloR (log)

[kai-m]

Thanks a lot PauloR!

Can you give me an idea bout the price range of the restaurants (for a set menu)? Unfortunately none of them bothers to put prices on the online-menu...

Does "eleven" serve lunch as well? And since Iam travelling alone: is it a place where you feel "comfortable" as a single (younger) diner? (I've had very differing experiences about that, depending on the restaurant and their average customer-age...). Same goes for "terreiro do paco".

And finally some general questions: Are there (unwritten) dress-codes in more upscale lisbon-restaurants, meaning: do I need to wear a jacket (and a tie) at 30°+ celsius?

What time is the usual "dinner time" in portugal? As late as in other southern-european countries? Or does it depend on the restaurant? (Starting a 6-course-dinner at 10pm can make for a long night...).

Thanks

kai

[PauloR]

Thanks a lot PauloR!

Can you give me an idea bout the price range of the restaurants (for a set menu)? Unfortunately none of them bothers to put prices on the online-menu...

Does "eleven" serve lunch as well? And since Iam travelling alone: is it a place where you feel "comfortable" as a single (younger) diner? (I've had very differing experiences about that, depending on the restaurant and their average customer-age...). Same goes for "terreiro do paco".

And finally some general questions: Are there (unwritten) dress-codes in more upscale lisbon-restaurants, meaning: do I need to wear a jacket (and a tie) at 30°+ celsius?

What time is the usual "dinner time" in portugal? As late as in other southern-european countries? Or does it depend on the restaurant? (Starting a 6-course-dinner at 10pm can make for a long night...).

Thanks

kai

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Eleven and Fortaleza do Guincho, dress code for dinner is smart casual. Dinner time 8,00pm is ok.

The price is 130 euros pp tasting menu with wines, in both restaurants.

Eleven serves lunch menu, with wines 70/80 euros, and no problem to go as a single, in both Eleven and Terreiro do Paço.

Other restaurants dress code informal, prices lower.

Nice bar http://www.luxfragil.com/

Edited June 15, 2006 by PauloR (log)

[kai-m]

Sounds good!

Would have thought that "Terreire do paco" is more of an elegant place, since the pictures look very stylish.

I've read somewhere that this restaurant has 2 or 3 different dining rooms on different floors, each with a different menu/style/price range. Can you tell me about the differences in style an atmosphere, since I will have to mention one of them upon my reservation, I guess.

Thank you!

Can't wait to go...

[PauloR]

Sounds good!

Would have thought that "Terreire do paco" is more of an elegant place, since the pictures look very stylish.

I've read somewhere that this restaurant has 2 or 3 different dining rooms on different floors, each with a different menu/style/price range. Can you tell me about the differences in style an atmosphere, since I will have to mention one of them upon my reservation, I guess.

Thank you!

Can't wait to go...

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Terreiro do Paço, have a small portions opition " tapas" in the ground floor( terreiro), and the gastronomic restaurant in the 1st floor.(paço)

[Pelayin]

Eleven and Fortaleza do Guincho, dress code for dinner is smart casual. Dinner time 8,00pm is ok.

The price is 130 euros pp tasting menu with wines, in both restaurants.

Eleven serves lunch menu, with wines 70/80 euros, and no problem to go as a single, in both Eleven and Terreiro do Paço.

Other restaurants dress code informal, prices lower.

Nice bar  http://www.luxfragil.com/

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Paulo,

thank you very much for such informative posts. We will be indulging in Cascais for 10 days this summer and I would appreciate if you could point some casual places to enjoy food on a budget in Cascais and Estoril. The good restaurants you pointed out would fit our needs for the high end side but we will have to balance the experiences, if you know what I mean.

Also, I was surprised by your quote of 130 euros pp in Fortaleza do Guincho. In their website, there are two menus listed, one at 45 euros, the other at 60 euros. What sums up to 130 euros per person? Is there any hidden charge (more than VAT)?

Thanks in advance,

P.

Edited June 16, 2006 by Pelayin (log)

[PauloR]

Paulo,

thank you very much for such informative posts. We will be indulging in Cascais for 10 days this summer and I would appreciate if you could point some casual places to enjoy food on a budget in Cascais and Estoril. The good restaurants you pointed out would fit our needs for the high end side but we will have to balance the experiences, if you know what I mean.

Also, I was surprised by your quote of 130 euros pp in Fortaleza do Guincho. In their website, there are two menus listed, one at 45 euros, the other at 60 euros. What sums up to 130 euros per person? Is there any hidden charge (more than VAT)?

Thanks in advance,

P.

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The price of 130 euros, was my last meal in Fortaleza do Guincho, with good wines ... With inexpensive yet good wines, the price will be not more than 80/90 euros.

Very good restaurant in the center of Cascais is 100 Maneiras , telf. 214835394, nice menu with wines by the glass, 50/60 euros.

Nice cheap restaurant in the center of Cascais "O Pereira" Telefone: 214 831 215

Exelent fish and seafood expensive http://www.portosantamaria.com/

[kai-m]

Well, I'm back. Only made it to "Terreiro do Paço" - and wish I hadn't...

The restaurant looks kinda nice, but it was only 1/4 full on a friday night. Wanna know why? Well: the 4 (smallish) "gambas from the oven with passion fruit reduction, salad and sweet-potato chips" I had as a starter were hopelessly overcooked, resulting in a not-so-delicate rubber-like texture. The passion fruit reduction was really extremely reduced - to 4 drops that is...Main "sauce" was an aioli that was so oversalted that it was simply inedible. The mixed side-salad, on the other hand, did't have any dressing on it whatsoever...the "sweet-potato chips" were crunchy but had a tad of an "old-fat" odeur to them...

Main course was codfish with foam of codfish tongue, spinach-sauce and some sort of potato-croquettes with almond pieces on them. Again, the fish was totally overcooked and therefor dry. The -intersting- foam had to be eaten in a hurry within the first 10 seconds after arrival of the dish, since it melted very quickly, beeing placed on the hot spinach-sauce - that sauce was okay, even though it was sort of musty (but hat may be a "spinach-thing"). The potatos were nothing to remember either.

At least the dessert was really good, I have to say! Caramelized Raviolis of goat cheese and ananas - very delicious!

What I found really offensive is that they charge you for the amuse bouches!! (At the price of a minor starter!)

And the espresso afterwards is so expensive (for lisbon) that they actually charge you for the 2 Petits fours that come with it as well...

Wine pairing was, well, it was okay for the price. But actually it wasn't a "pairing", since I saw that every table was poured the same open wines, not matter what dishes they had...

Service was friendly but seemed very helpless when asked more specific questions abou the menu or certain dishes...

I knew that portugal is not the place to expect culinary treasures, but if this is "refined portugese" cuisine I'm glad that I idn't go to a "basic" restaurant...

Greetings

kai

Edited June 25, 2006 by kai-m (log)

[tsquare]

I knew that portugal is not the place to expect culinary treasures, but if this is "refined portugese" cuisine I'm glad that I idn't go to a "basic" restaurant...

Greetings

kai

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Well, if you had stuck to the basics, you might have had a better experience:

another view

Keep travelling - and eating.

[kai-m]

Well, tsquare, actually I did, on my 2 other nights - guided by a native portugese...

...don't ask...

best

kai

PS: Oh, and no need to worry about my travelling and eating habits, really...

[Ohba]

You might not have had food to your taste, and perhaps will never acquire a taste for Portuguese food, but 3 nights doesn't really give enough time to scratch the surface of what Lisbon can offer. Foam really isn't what Portuguese food is about, and long may it stay that way. I agree with Tsquare on this, that sticking to traditional and simple food is where you'll be most rewarded. Or would have been.

[kai-m]

I truly hope to get the chance to give it another try.

best

kai

[filipe]

Shame you hadn't had a good experience in Lisbon, at least on what concerns to food.

I would never choose Terreiro do Paço without assuring myself first of who was really at the kitchen... Eleven would be a much better option if you were after "michelin-type" food.

On the other hand, if you were into experiencing true portuguese flavours, then any of these "slick-like" places should be an option.

If I had seen your post earlier I would have advised you to split your food experiences by 3, according to the number of nights you were staying. First i would tell you to start by some ordinary portuguese food - almost any place in Bairro Alto could be an option. The 2nd day could be some intermediate step and then places like "Pap'Açorda" or "100 Maneiras" might fit the deal. And the 3rd day to a more "international-style" place/experience, like "Eleven", "Pragma" or Hotel do Bairro Alto's "Flores" for example.

Edited July 18, 2006 by filipe (log)

[therese]

I'm visiting Lisbon for a week in mid-March with a friend. We're staying in an apartment in Chiado, overlooking the Praça de Camões. Nice large kitchen, so we can do a bit of cooking if we'd like, but we'll also be eating out a lot. We both like food and have adventurous tastes, so any and all suggestions welcome. Money not an object, so consider all price points.

Also, what's the market situation? Small shops vs supermarkets vs open air markets? Any foods unique to this time of year?

[MMerrill]

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=576896,

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=865190,

Check out the threads you can link to above. As someone on one of them says, look up old posts by Miguel Cardoso. We were in Lisbon a month ago. and ate at Solar dos Nunes, which remains a favorite. Also Conventual, just a lovely restaurant, and the fish place in Alcantra (can't remember the name, but it's in one of those earlier posts) which remains great. Of course there are places that are closer to where you're staying - Pap Acorda in Bairro Alto is supposed to be very good. Never been, but my daughter likes it. We always shop at the wonderful grocery in the department store, Il Corte Inglese, but also at the neighborhood shops near where we stay. Seek out the wonderful Portuguese cheeses! In restaurants, pay attention to daily specials. They are often excellent and sometimes real bargains too.

I'll see what else I can think of for you.

[therese]

Thanks for the links, MMerrill. I'd already been through them, and checked out your recommendation for Solar dos Nunes. I'll look into the others, and should your daughter happen to mention any other places she's been in Bairro Alto or environs please feel free to pass the information on here. I'll be posting re our experience when I return.

[ckruse]

check out the alto section, avoid the center even though its really nice. There is also a restaurant in the old castle that overlooks the city, pretty fancy but the view is worth it. If you like to picnic there is great sausage and cheese to be had along with a bottle of vinho verde, which is a great wine to drink on a picnic because it doesnt ask very much of you. THe aged serra cheeses are great if you like the strong stuff.

[filipe]

I'm visiting Lisbon for a week in mid-March with a friend. We're staying in an apartment in Chiado, overlooking the Praça de Camões. Nice large kitchen, so we can do a bit of cooking if we'd like, but we'll also be eating out a lot. We both like food and have adventurous tastes, so any and all suggestions welcome. Money not an object, so consider all price points.

Also, what's the market situation? Small shops vs supermarkets vs open air markets? Any foods unique to this time of year?

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Probably one of the best locations on where to stay in Lisbon. Lots (and i mean LOTS) of restaurants at Bairro Alto neighbourhood. Most of them are typical restaurants, with "every day" food. Anyway, I guess you should try one or two.

For a more propper meal you have "Flores", at Bairro Alto Hotel (Largo de Camões). You can also check "Le Brasserie de l'Entrecôte", which is just around the corner at Rua do Alecrim. I would avoid Pap'Açorda , unless you like spending money just for the pleasure of spending it and being rudelly treated as a gift.

About markets... good supermarkets are a good option, but if you want to feel the vibes of a fruit & vegetables daily market shopping you have a few choices : Mercado do Rato, Mercado de Alvalade, Mercado de Arroios. You can also check Mercado da Ribeira, very nice building.

If you need a more detailled advice feel free to PM me, I'll do some research.

[therese]

Thanks for the info, filipe. We'll take a pass on the "expensive, but at least they were rude" dining option in favor of others in the area.

Looks like the Mercado da Ribeira is a straight shot down the hill via Rua do Alecrim to Cais do Sodre (so reasonable on foot, but the return trip, particularly laden with food, might involve public transit of some sort), and Mercado do Rato is presumably near the Rato metro station. Is either Alvalade or Arroios closer proximity to Praça de Camões? And are the particular chains of supermarkets that are considered nicer than others?

[filipe]

Thanks for the info, filipe. We'll take a pass on the "expensive, but at least they were rude" dining option in favor of others in the area.

Looks like the Mercado da Ribeira is a straight shot down the hill via Rua do Alecrim to Cais do Sodre (so reasonable on foot, but the return trip, particularly laden with food, might involve public transit of some sort), and Mercado do Rato is presumably near the Rato metro station. Is either Alvalade or Arroios closer proximity to Praça de Camões? And are the particular chains of supermarkets that are considered nicer than others?

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It's a short way walk from Largo de Camões to Mercado da Ribeira. As we say here "all the saints help on the way down..." but even the opposite way it won't be that hard. Mercado do Rato is like 100m far from one of the subway exits at Rato station. Mercado de Arroios is near Arroios metro station, but like Alvalade, it's a bit far from Chiado and Bairro Alto.

My supermarket choices would go to El Corte Ingles department store supermarket (direct exit from the metro at São Sebastião station) and to Pingo Doce (this chain you can find it almost in every neighbourhood). There's one closer El Corte Ingles at Rua Tomás Ribeiro 97.

If you want to buy some fine wine or grocery there's a gourmet shop called "Mercearia da Atalaia", at Rua da Atalaia, on Bairro Alto, a short way walk from Largo de Camões. There's also "Charcutaria Moy" at Largo do Principe Real, not that far as well, and "Delidelux", near Santa Apolonia train station, side-by-side with "Bica do Sapato" restaurant and "Lux" disco-club.

[therese]

It's a short way walk from Largo de Camões to Mercado da Ribeira. As we say here "all the saints help on the way down..." but even the opposite way it won't be that hard.

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Thanks for the additional info, filipe. The news that the incline between Camões and Mercado da Ribeira is not punishingly steep is welcome. Any town that actually lists "elevadors" as a type of public transit clearly has some very steep runs.

I think of El Corte Ingles as being Spanish, but clearly they've established themselves pretty well in Portugal if everybody suggests grocery shopping there.

[Sneakeater]

I liked Conventual a lot, and am happy to hear it's still good.

[filipe]

I think of El Corte Ingles as being Spanish, but clearly they've established themselves pretty well in Portugal if everybody suggests grocery shopping there.

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Yes, EL Corte Ingles is a spanish department store and retail chain. They've opened two department stores, one in Lisbon and the other one at Oporto (Vila Nova de Gaia). They also have a supermarket at Quinta da Beloura (near Cascais and Sintra), called Hipercor.

Their supermarkets are great because they offer a lot of spanish products that you won't find at other supermarkets, althought they're not the cheapest in town...

Other advantage is that they have a "gourmet" corner where you can find a lot of exquisite products.

I forgot to mention another very nice supermarket, opened every day of the week until 11pm, which is "Pão de Açucar" at "Amoreiras" shopping mall. It belongs to the french retail chain "Auchan".

If you're curious about products from Madeira island you should visit "Sá" supermarket, which is located at "Campo Pequeno" mall (under the bullfight arena, with direct exit from metro station Campo Pequeno). They have Madeira wine, sodas, cakes, beer...