Wolfert, "Slow Mediterranean Kitchen"

[Abra]

Well, I have to admit that the oil, with some juices still in, got left out overnight, so I ended up tossing it. It was a waste, that's for sure.

I'm sure yours is more correct, with the white beans. But I love all of the Rancho Gordo beans, and didn't have any white ones, plus I had some homemade chicken stock that needed using, so my beans were a bit deviant. I did flavor them otherwise according to the recipe, at least.

[Nathan P.]

I just made the olive oil coddled pork as well. I have to say this is some of the best pork I have ever made. Incredible lucious texture and good penetration of the seasonings. I went with a different final dish which you may have seen on the Dinner thread. I made crostini using a Pain de Campagna from a local bakery. I then smeared the garlic on the crostini and topped that with shredded warm pork, a drizzle of the oil and a bit of pepper. To counter the richness I paired this with fennel pickles (from the Babbo cookbook) and some beautiful super fresh young arugula dressed with taggiasca olive oil and meyer lemon juice.

Super good and I think I may have this for dinner tonight. I'll try to get a pic with better lighting this time.

[Nathan P.]

Well the camera wanted to focus on the arugula but here goes anyway. Olive oil coddled pork crostini with arugula salad. This stuff is great and I will definately do it again.

[Abra]

Your pork crostini look beautiful, Nathan. I just loved the way the salt and fennel penetrated into the meat. That's really a wonderful, and wonderfully simple, little dish.

[christine007]

these pictures are so beautiful, I'm inspired to get this cookbook now!

Abra your picture of the wine and flowers belongs in a frame!

[deensiebat]

had a happy hour-type birthday party last month, mostly because i wanted to make snacks from this book.

started some grilled bread (i covet my housemates cast-iron griddle):

"tunisian" devilled eggs (with harissa, capers and parsley):

the avocado-sardine toasts:

and some marcona almonds with rosemary (fried by trader joe's, not me):

i forgot to take a picture of the herb jam, which was my favorite item, and the flat bread with feta and parsley (because it was eaten before the camera came out). i was mildly disappointed with the avocado-sardine toasts (they were yummy, but i think i was somehow expecting them to be exponentially better than the sum of their parts), but other than that all was good.

[Corinna Dunne]

Well, I finally made the pork coddled in olive oil and I can see why everyone is raving about it. I can’t believe that this dish is not better known. It is definitely the new confit, or probably more accurately, the new rillettes. It’s a perfect dish to prepare in advance, and it doesn’t even need to be crisped up like duck confit when it is to be served.

I used loin instead of shoulder, as I had taken a bit off a cut for a roast (I’m sure the shoulder would produce a better result, but the loin was to hand, and it worked well). Then, our plans changed, and it sat in the fridge in oil for about 10 days (the recipe says it can be left for up to 5 days… oops). When I finally got to eat it last night, I hadn’t soaked any beans, I had no arugula or red onions, so I ended up making a quick pommes boulangere, using the juices from the pork diluted with water, and some briefly boiled slices of potato to speed things up. I served it in a deep plate, with the meat on top of the potatoes, and some peas around one side. It was absolutely wonderful and my husband (always a good judge) raved about it. So now I can’t wait to try it out the proper way, following the recipe to the letter.

I kept the delicious oil, and have it in a jar in the fridge ready to use on fried eggs. I’d say that it would also be delicious drizzled over mashed potatoes, over vegetables, even pasta. There’s a lovely sweetness to it because of the garlic.

I have just one question: does anybody know why the recipe states that it can be refrigerated “for up to 5 days”? It strikes me, that this should be suitable for keeping in preserving jars over a longer period of time, much like confit. I would love to have a few jars of it in reserve.

[FoodMan]

I cannot believe I forgot to post this! damn work. I made the "Potato Gratin with Prunes" recently to go with a steak with shallots (from Bouchon) and it was fantastic. The prunes make a nice sweet-garlicky sauce that mingles with the potatoes and as you can imagine, the top crispy ones are the best part. Do give it a shot, especially with this cold weather we are getting in the first week of Spring .

[Wolfert]

I have just one question: does anybody know why the recipe states that it can be refrigerated “for up to 5 days”? It strikes me, that this should be suitable for keeping in preserving jars over a longer period of time, much like confit. I would love to have a few jars of it in reserve.

I was afraid to suggest storing the pork in watery-oil for any longer than a week. Corinne, I think it would be ok if you separate out the water, reheat the oil, pour it over the warm pork in a clean jar, and sterilize it.

[Corinna Dunne]

Great, thanks so much for the advice. I'm going to give it a go. I can understand your concerns with the oil, so will be extra vigilant. I've found a great supplier for organic pork at a local Farmers' Market on Saturdays.

FoodMan, I love the sound of that gratin. I'll be getting 2 large t-bone steaks from my meat supplier tomorrow, so will be putting that on the menu instead of my traditional baked potato.

[Corinna Dunne]

Great, thanks so much for the advice. I'm going to give it a go. I can understand your concerns with the oil, so will be extra vigilant. I've found a great supplier for organic pork at a local Farmers' Market on Saturdays.

FoodMan, I love the sound of that gratin. I'll be getting 2 large t-bone steaks from my meat supplier tomorrow, so will be putting that on the menu instead of my traditional baked potato.

[Abra]

I have a preserved lemon question. On Thursday I started a batch of preserved lemons, using the recipe in this book. I used Meyers, which is why they look so golden. Here's how they started.

The instructions say to shake them every day for 30 days, and that the lemons will exude enough juice to become fully submerged after a few days. Then last night I was reading the preserved lemon recipe in Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco, and that recipe said that the lemons should be covered with juice from the start.

Here's how my lemons look this morning, after 48 hours.

There's a lot more juice, but they're a long way from being completely submerged. I'm wondering about the two different techniques, whether they produce different results, and whether my lemons will really get submerged, and if it will matter. Paula, or anyone who's made these?

Edited March 25, 2006 by Abra (log)

[Wolfert]

Abra,

Some lemons produce a lot more juice than others.

When this happens to me, I add extra lemon juice and then top it off with some oil.

It will be fine.

[Smithy]

Hmm. So all these years I've been squeezing extra lemons to get enough juice to cover the batch from the start...and that step was unnecessary? That would certainly save on lemons.

[Abra]

Thanks, Paula. I'll give it one more day to extract juice on its own, then top it off.

[memesuze]

what's the "use by" date for lemons preserved with the slow Wolfert method - I've been overlooking a batch of Meyers and a batch of regulars I made last year.

[Wolfert]

If the lemons don't smell like furniture polish they are fine to use.

Preserved lemons keep at least a year if stored in the fridge. In fact, they actually develop more aroma and flavor.

If you are worried, you can simmer them in water for about 10 minutes before adding to a tagine.

[FoodMan]

I usually do what Paula mentioned, salt and let them sit for a few days and top off with extra lemon juice to cover. I never refrigerate mine though. Should I? This batch is over a year old and tastes lovely.

[Wolfert]

Moroccans never refrigerate preserved lemons.

As a food writer, for obvious reasons, I suggest keeping them refrigerated after opening.

[Corinna Dunne]

I cannot believe I forgot to post this! damn work. I made the "Potato Gratin with Prunes" recently to go with a steak with shallots (from Bouchon) and it was fantastic. The prunes make a nice sweet-garlicky sauce that mingles with the potatoes and as you can imagine, the top crispy ones are the best part. Do give it a shot, especially with this cold weather we are getting in the first week of Spring .

←

I tried this out on Saturday, and yes, it's really good. Reading the recipe, I was a bit concerned that it would be too rich and heavy; and even when I was making it, the combination of prunes and port smelled like rich Christmas pudding. But after long slow cooking, the flavour is subtle and adds just the right amount of extra interest. It was great with the steak, but I think it could be particularly good with roast venison (with a touch of juniper), sliced across the top. I'd say that slices of nicely cooked duck breast would be good too.

[FoodMan]

I cannot believe I forgot to post this! damn work. I made the "Potato Gratin with Prunes" recently to go with a steak with shallots (from Bouchon) and it was fantastic. The prunes make a nice sweet-garlicky sauce that mingles with the potatoes and as you can imagine, the top crispy ones are the best part. Do give it a shot, especially with this cold weather we are getting in the first week of Spring .

←

I tried this out on Saturday, and yes, it's really good. Reading the recipe, I was a bit concerned that it would be too rich and heavy; and even when I was making it, the combination of prunes and port smelled like rich Christmas pudding. But after long slow cooking, the flavour is subtle and adds just the right amount of extra interest. It was great with the steak, but I think it could be particularly good with roast venison (with a touch of juniper), sliced across the top. I'd say that slices of nicely cooked duck breast would be good too.

←

or a nice pork rib roast I can definitly see it going great with venison though.

[Abra]

Slow Oven-Steamed Salmon with Sauce Martiques. Oh yes.

The oven steaming produces a great, moist texture. You can see it better in this shot

and the pungent herb, caper, and anchovy sauce set off the fish perfectly. That, and a nice Sauv Blanc

from British Columbia. We were drinking wines we brought back from Vancouver recently. The red went nicely with Red Beans with Pork and Carrots.

[Dianne]

Beautiful pictures, Abra. That is one of my favourite recipes from this book, and now my go-to technique for fatty fish of all kinds. I love the rhubarb and cucumber salad too.

[Lynnette]

Hi All,

Paula, I made the Cassoulet in the Style of Toulouse last month, and must say, it was divine. I had to use three casseroles, not having the proper size, but still, it came out beautifully. I was amazed at the magickal transformation of fats into succulent beans. NEVER, ever, have I cooked beans from scratch that tasted so good. So thanks to you, Ms. Wolfert, AND to Rancho Gordo!!!

Oops... this recipe was from Cooking of SW France. I have both books

Edited April 17, 2006 by Lynnette (log)

[Jesse A]

I've been slowly cooking my way through this book since I got it as a hannukah gift. We got some gorgeous asparagus last week from our wonderful CSA, Full Belly Farm, and made the pan-grilled asparagus and oyster mushrooms with pancetta/garlic puree.

First of all, lightly charring the asparagus on a hot iron skillet gave it a delicious, smoky, grilled taste. As an apartment resident with no outdoor space, this is a great "grilling" technique to have in the arsenal. The finished dish was delicious -- the pancetta/garlic puree gave the mushrooms an incredibly rich, unctous quality.

I do have a few questions for the rest of you.

First, I have a good amount of this pancetta/garlic puree left in the fridge. Ms. Wolfert recommends using to flavor soups and beans. I'm making a bean soup tonight with some beautiful cranberry beans that have been sitting in the cupboard for a while -- seems like a good opportunity to use up this delicious stuff. However, won't the puree, which is basically cooked garlic pureed with raw pancetta and rendered duck fat, break when I add it to the bean soup? Will the duck and pancetta fat end up floating on the surface of the soup?

Also, should I add it early in cooking to flavor the beans, or stir it in at the end? Will the salt in the puree make the beans tough if I add it too early?

Also, I'm planning on making the fall-apart lamb shanks for my mom's birthday next week (she appreciates great food and loves lamb, but is too intimidated to cook it herself). The recipe recommends in a 7-quart enameled cast iron casserole. I have access to two 5 1/2 qt. LC french ovens, but nothing bigger. Would it work to put half the lamb in each casserole and braise them side by side?

Also, the recipe serves six, but there are only three of us. Perhaps I could halve the recipe? I know that can often have mixed results for more involved, complex, multi-part recipes like this one.

Any advice?