DIGEST: Los Angeles Times Food Section

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 11, 2003

What a gorgeous issue! If you are planning to be anywhere near Napa, you definitely want to read this. If not, you definitely want to read this anyway to experience what you can vicariously. Here goes:

Article #1, by eGulleteer Russ Parsons, By casual invitation only, profiles the dinner parties at the home of Rob and Maria Helm Sinskey. Russ says it best with, "A dozen guests are milling about at Rob and Maria Helm Sinskey's house -- a newly reconstructed barn. In the kitchen, Maria is working madly putting the finishing touches on the first course. In the living room, four kids under the age of 6 are howling their heads off at a cartoon. In the dining room, Rob, barefooted, is sweeping up the shattered remains of a wine glass he dropped while giving it a last-minute polish. The scene is more Ricardo than Rothschild -- provided Ricky made great wine and Lucy had once been a star chef." I'd love an invitation. Here's the meal and recipes: Herbed Israeli couscous, Herb-marinated goat cheese with little rosemanry fougasses, Summer vegetable salad, Roasted halibut with tomatoes and olives, and Mexican hot chocolate ice cream with dark chocolate sauce.

The new spirit in town, by S. Irene Virbila, claims that the dining scene is heating up or growing up. She says that "Pretension is peeling away, and a new informal spirit is taking over. . ." Besides The French Laundry, and "staid" dining rooms, there are now places to "grab an informal delicious bite." Some of the places discussed are Angele, Zuzu, Market, Taylor's Refresher, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, Auberge du Soleil, Martini House, Gordon's Cafe and Wine Bar, Bouchon, and Bistro Jenny. Find out the details of each restaurant here. Recipes from some of the restaurants include Ahi steak sandwich from Taylor's Refresher, Rosie's pecan coffeecake from Gordon's Cafe & Wine Bar, Bouchon's lemon tart, and Chilled cucumber, avocado and buttermilk soup from Market.

S. Irene Virbila also says that the French Laundry: (is) better than ever.

When looking for wine, Rod Smith urges us to Heed the roads less taken. "These outlying districts have more vineyards than wineries and almost no tasting rooms (try calling ahead to request a visit). Yet their grapes have helped make the Napa Valley America's greatest wine region and their natural beauty rivals that of the valley itself, without the commercial overlay." For recommendations, read about the wines that are Off the beaten path.

For more on wine, read about the patron of the Napa Valley, Robert Mondavi, in The patriarch in a storm, by Corie Brown. Approching 90, he is "back at work, taking a hands-on role in the direction of his namesake wines."

Partners in the organic frontier, by David Shaw, profiles lifelong Napa Valley friends Bill Davies and Tom Gamble who have teamed up to produce high-quality organic wine and high-quality grass-fed beef.

Leaving the Napa and returning south, S. Irene Virbila's weekly review, Yearning for Mexico, profiles Senor Fred in Sherman Oaks. Though rated as satisfactory (i.e., no stars), she says that "Senor Fred makes a tantalizing promise: real Mexican cooking, not dull combo platters." Best dishes are Guacamole, tortilla soup, quesadilla with cheese, tamalitos, enchiladas de papas suizas, cochinita pibil, carne asada.

When you're game for duck, by Linda Burum, profiles Il San Duck BBQ House in Koreatown. Best dishes are Clay-pot roasted duck, spicy duck noodle soup, spicy duck casserole.

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 18, 2003

Before I get into this weeks food section, you may want to check back in on Sunday at LATimes.com. This coming Sunday's magazine is the annual Restautant Guide.

Not this week's lead article but, in my opinion, this week's best is David Shaw's column Matters of Taste. New York writer Calvin Trillin was in LA. He and David know each other and David recounts their meal and conversation over Chinese food in Rosemead. This one is really delightful.

In Just top this, Emily Green profiles pastry chef Kimberly Boyce who is an ice cream expert. That includes the toppings too. Now is the best time with all the summer fruits coming into their own. Find her recipes for Vanilla ice cream, Honey almond ice cream, Boysenberry ice cream, Boysenberry compote, Roasted apricots, and Nectarine jam.

In case you need something special to scoop your ice cream, check out Cookstuff.

A frenzy for the Aussie Grange, by Corie Brown, says the new release is "absolute perfection." The wine is breaking rules and records.

If you want to grill but can't or don't want to go outdoors, Susan LaTempa tells you how to do it in Everything but the smoke. This article evaluates 4 indoor grills.

Sorrel is Naturally dressed for summer, according to Donna Deane. Use it as the main ingredient in a dish, not just as an accompanying herb. Find recipes for Green on green salad, Sorrel potato cakes, and Grilled cod with chiffonade of sorrel.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn brings us the recipe for Bistro 110's artichoke stuffed with Brie.

In this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles Rockenwagner in Santa Monica. Hans Rockenwagner has had his restaurant since 1984 but has now reworked it into a brasserie that also has a small dining room if you want something more fancy. She gives the restaurant 2 stars and recommends the Weisswurst with pretzel roll, Black Forest ham, terrine de foie gras, moules frites, spaghetti and clams, Niman Ranch pork chop, pretzel burger, chocolate fondue.

Coffee tequila, anyone? Valli Herman-Cohen says "they're putting almost anything in a bottle -- as long as it's bright and quirky."

The Wine of the Week, is 2001 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, France. S. Irene Virbila tells you about it.

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 25, 2003

I hope you all checked out last Sunday's magazine section. It was the annual restaurant edition with info on scores of So Cal restaurants -- the famous and not so famous. It's not too late, you can get it here.

For this week:

Picnics used to be simple, but no more. Regina Schrambling thinks they should be and the sandwich is the way to go. Find out about it in They're good to go. But, there are sandwiches, and then there are sandwiches. Quite frankly her descriptions sound delicious. To make your own, click here for Muffuletta, Shooter's sandwich, Chorizo and egg sandwich, and Roasted vegetable sandwich.

Of course, the best thing to go with a good sandwich on a picnic is a beer. In Cheers for the bitter brew, James Ricci profiles Stone Brewing Co. out of San Diego. This little brewery is about to be named America's best brewery by Beeradvocate.com and is already rated the best in North America by Ratebeer.com. According to their chief executive, "We brew, not beer that people want, but beer that people deserve."

And just to make your summertime picnic complete, don't forget the watermelon. Charles Perry and Valli Herman-Cohen tell you How the watermelon got its slurp, including where they originated, how they evolved and plans for different size watermelons. You can also find recipes for Tomato and watermelon salad and Watermelon ketchup.

Fruit is great at its peak but, as e-Gulleteer Russ Parsons asks, "just how many times in a summer do you find perfection?" We've got you covered is a fascinating article about how "a simple syrup infused with herbs, spices or tea can make so-so summer fruits shine." Russ was surprised, and you will be too, at which combinations did and didn't work. The article includes a basic recipe for nectarines and blackberries in rose geranium syrup, and also tells you how to adapt that recipe to pair other fruits with different syrups.

Think nobody gets dressed up for dinner in LA anymore? Well guess again. In Play it again, Jimmy, S. Irene Virbila reviews Jimmy's Tavern in West LA. Jimmy Murphy is back in the restaurant business after closing the classic Jimmy's in Beverly Hills a few years ago. Not the place for nouvelle anything but you will find this is "where an old Hollywood crowd that still dresses for a night out convenes for classic cocktails and dinner." She gives it one and a half stars and recommends Smoked Irish salmon, seared Kobe beef, peeky toe crab cakes, quadretti Bolognese, organic Irish salmon, corned beef and cabbage, Irish lamb stew, coupe à la Jimmy's.

For something a little less upscale, There's always room at the shepherd's table. Charles Perry recommends Centro Basco in Chino for good Basque food. He recommends the Onion soup, poulet Basquaise, Spencer steak with garlic, lukinka sausage with noodles.

David Shaw's Learning the ABC's of enology is a great story about how the kids at a Santa Barbara area Montessori school made and sold wine as a fundraiser -- everything from stomping on the grapes to bottling and labeling. Oh yeah, it's also a profile of Craig Jaffurs, owner and winemaker at Jaffurs Wine Cellars. It was his son's school.

The Wine of the week is 2002 Torbreck Juveniles.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for the Getty Center's Cobb salad.

You can do much more than creme brulee with a propane torch. Leslee Komaiko tells you what lots of chefs around town are doing with their torches in Restaurant Journal.

Edited July 30, 2003 by Fat Guy (log)

[hollywood]

JF, you've done it again. Thanks.

[alacarte]

Love that SOS column. But I'm sucker for anyone who resurrects "lost recipes."

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- July 2, 2003

"Ribs are very adaptable. As long as you finish with smoke, you can cheat on the fire." So says Regina Schrambling in The fine art of ribs. Find recipes for Chiu Chow-style ribs, Maple-bourbon ribs, Triple-chile ribs, and Tandoori ribs. In an accompanying article, When soul food met tiki, Charles Perry tells where spare ribs came from and how they rose to become the "star of the barbecue." If you want the best meat for your ribs, Regina Schrambling says get them from Niman Ranch in Test Kitchen Notebook.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw decries the quality of the once delicious Dodger Dogs, as well as the rest of the eats now sold at Dodger Stadium. Read about it in Who let this dog out.

In Assembled, not tossed, Russ Parsons implores us to "please, take a little time and give your salad the consideration it's due. The rewards will far outweigh the small amount of effort required." Included in the article are recipes for Fennel, mushroom and Parmesan salad; Cucumber, beet and feta salad; and Sweet onion, avocado and shrimp salad.

And what would this time of year be without berries? Donna Deane gives A three-berry salute and tells how to make berry pies without the oven. Find recipes for Strawberry and goat cheese pie, Blueberry cream pie, and Raspberry wine pie. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the online link for the recipe for the No-bake cooke crumb pie crust.

If you don't want berries, how about apricots. Read Emily Green's, The golden glow of summer itself. You'll find a great recipe for apricot jam.

Rod Smith says a "dry rose is the perfect match for just about any summer meal," in The one glass that goes with everything.

This week there are two wines of the week. 2002 Mönchhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, and 2001 Lucia Pinot Noir.

The neighborhood secret is this week's restaurant review by S. Irene Virbila. Chloe is "a tiny gem in Playa del Rey that's the highly personal expression of two creative chefs." Those would be Christian Shaffer and Jeff Osaka who create a new menu monthly. She gives the restaurant two stars.

This week's Counterintelligence, by Linda Burum, profiles Pooja Sweets & Savories in Anaheim where you can find Indian treats.

Chinese black rice is turning up in restaurants all over town. Find out about it in Restaurant Journal by Leslee Komaiko.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Ed & Fred's coleslaw.

Edited July 30, 2003 by Fat Guy (log)

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- July 9, 2003

It's summer, it's fresh corn, and it's great. Emily Green wants us to Rip into summer. You really can't go wrong. If you want to do more than grill or boil your corn, find recipes for Corn chowder, Succotash, and Avocado corn relish. If you want to separate whole kernels from the cob, or cream them, find out what tools work best in Down to the cob by Donna Deane.

"Sure, it's famous, filled with VIPs, tourists and foodies. And yes, it's trendy too. But make no mistake: Spago is better than ever." That's what S. Irene Virbila has to say in Spago is still California at its best. Puck has maintained his standards at his flagship restaurant but she also credits executive chef Lee Hefter. She gives the place a whopping 3 1/2 stars, thinks most things taste great and really likes the tasting menu.

If you haven't been, you've got to go. That's to the Ferry Plaza in San Francisco and especially the Farmers Market there. Regina Schrambling will have your mouth watering and send you checking for air fares in A new culinary landmark takes root in San Francisco.

It's difficult to come up with desserts that are durable enough to endure the summer trip to the beach or mountains. In Made for the road, Regina Schrambling recommends two classics from down under -- Lamingtons and Anzac biscuits.

In Lemon bars with zing, Barbara Hansen tells where to get the best ones in town.

Who'd of thunk it? Great wine at Disneyland! Well not exactly in the park itself but David Shaw is quite impressed with the Napa Rose restaurant in the Grand Californian Hotel in the heart of the Disneyland/Downtown Disney/California Adventure complex. In A wine adventureland, he tells us that they have a 17,000 bottle wine cellar. On an equally impressive note " It's not just the wine that makes Napa Rose an extraordinary experience for wine lovers, though. It's the wine service. The restaurant has 26 certified sommeliers — including chef Andrew Sutton, three sous-chefs, one line cook, virtually all the servers, the bartenders, one of the hosts, a busboy and manager-sommelier Michael Jordan (no, not that Michael Jordan — this one is 5-foot-4 1/2). "

Speaking of wine, this week's Wine of the week is 2001 Estate-Grown Chalone Vineyard Pinot Noir.

In Counter Intelligence, Barbara Hansen recommends JJ Cafe in Monterey Park -- "an East-meets-West coffee shop that lets early birds and night owls drop in just about any time."

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- July 16, 2003

I can't start this week's summary without thanking, yet again, Carpet Bagger for arranging the first L. A. E-Gullet dinner last night at 2117. The food and wine were great, as was the company. More to come.

E-Gulleteer Russ Parsons says the best and easiest way to roast meat is on the rotisserie. Read It's roasting outside and you'll be trying this too. Great how-to photos and recipes for Lamb marinated in yogurt, garlic and rosemary; Pork brined in apple cider and balsamic vinegar; and Chicken with Chimayo chile rub.

Ok, so you don't have the rotisserie facilities you need and you can't decide between the late-night pitch-men. Never fear, Charles Perry has come to your rescue with Rotisserie smackdown! Popeil versus Foreman and Rotisseries: a winner in three rounds.

Think Malibu is only known for celebrities and surfer-dudes? Think again. Three Malibu area vintners are beginning to make names for themselves showing up on wine lists at Spago, Valentino, Melisse, Vincenti and La Cachette. David Shaw tells you all about it in The new stars of Malibu: winemakers.

There are all kinds of cookbooks and in Thrilled with chilled, Charles Perry reviews a new book containing 55 recipes exclusively for granita -- GranitaMagic by Nadia Roden, daughter of cook book author Claudia Roden. Refreshing looking recipes for Star anise and grapefruit granita, Strawberry granita, Coffee granita, and Basil and orange granita.

Culinary SOS provides a recipe for Sesame-crusted salmon on a bed of greens, papaya and blue cheese.

In Just ripe for summer, James Ricci recommends Belgian fruit beer as "dry and subtle, making it the perfect aperitif for a sunny day."

The Wine of the Week is 2002 SoloRosa California Rose.

In Far from the marinara crowd, S. Irene Virbila reviews Dolce on Melrose in West Hollywood calling it LA's "first truly hip Italian restaurant." Be sure to where black and stiletto heels. She gives the restaurant two stars and recommends Fried calamari and shrimp, tomato soup with Tuscan bread, pesto gnocchi, grilled cuttlefish, spaghetti with assorted seafood, saffron risotto with braised veal, galletto alla Diavola, pan-roasted swordfish steak, roasted rack of veal, panettone tiramisu in espresso sauce, ricotta cheese custard. The chef is 27-year-old Mirko Paderno previously of Primi, Valentino, Drago, Ago & Celestino. They have a 55 page wine list compiled by former Valentino sommelier Alessandro Sbrendola.

Charles Perry recommends CJ's Cafe in Where South meets south-of-the-border. It's on Pico in the mid-City area. Be sure to try the Sincronizada, pollo a la plancha, short ribs, pierna al horno (spicy roast pork), carrot juice.

Think those entrees are getting expensive? Valli Herman-Cohen tells you all about it in Restaurant Journal: And today's special is . . . sticker shock. There's something actually named the Forty-Five Dollar Salad and others. Also read about restaurants Noe in downtown, Nic's in Beverly Hills, new locations for Gyu-Kaku, and Vida in Los Feliz.

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- July 23, 2003

Tower's tell-all has them buzzing, by Shawn Hubler, is a preview of the soon to be released "California Dish: What I Saw (and Cooked) at the American Culinary Revolution." The book is "several degrees cattier than those of his predecessors . . .," (e.g., Bourdain, Reichl, etc.). If you can't wait for the book, check it out here.

Nouveau vegan, by Valli Herman-Cohen discusses how restaurants are developing their repertoire of really good vegan cuisine, even non-vegan places. Recipes for Carmelized fig cake with lemon anglaise, Sushi-rice risotto in tomato cups with black olive soy sauce, and Roasted beets napoleon with cumin, heirloom tomatoes and avocado.

Wine prices are down according to James Ricci. You can easily create a nice collection or enhance the one you already have. Great bottles, great prices. Find out how 4 of LA's top sommeliers would spend $300.

A week after the tragedy, Russ Parsons tells how the farmers from the Santa Monica Farmers Market are coping while they are getting back to work and planning to return today. Harvest and return: Santa Monica goes on.

Find out what to do with lobster in The luxury of simplicity by Susan La Tempa. How-to photos and recipes for Valentino's lobster-farro salad, Lobster-stuffed avocado with champagne vinaigrette, and Ginger lime lobster salad.

Cindy Dorn comes through in Culinary SOS with a recipe for Mother's crunch French toast.

In New-world Rhone, David Shaw tells about Aussie winemaker Caroline Dunn whose Annie's Lane Winery is winning awards and available in the US now.

The Wine of the Week is 1998 Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arborina.

Japanese cuisine has been influenced "foreign tastes that have made their way into modern Japanese cooking." Linda Burum tells about Cafe Hiro that does just this in The uni's touching the spaghetti, and that's OK. The restaurant is in Cypress.

This week S. Irene Virbila reviews The Little Door on 3rd Street. Off 3rd Street, and into another world.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- July 30, 2003

Why have duck only in cold weather? Regina Schrambling thinks you can, and should eat duck year round and says so in A duck for all seasons. Recipes for Grilled duck breasts with fresh ginger-peach chutney, Duck and potato salad, Duck legs with roasted mustard, and (since this is Los Angeles) Duck tacos.

More about wines down under. "New Zealand has the land and climate to make world-class Pinot Noir." Find out who's making it and why it's so good in The Kiwis' new game: Extreme Pinot by Corie Brown. To find out which wines Corie liked best, read By all means, wine and dine.

How do you know what to order in a real Chinese restaurant? If you can't read Chinese, how do you know what those dishes are that aren't translated into English? Carl Chu solves the mystery with his new book, "Finding Chinese Food in Los Angeles." It's way more than just a restaurant guide according to e-Gulleteer and food section writer Russ Parsons in Breaking the Chinese menu code. You don't have to be in LA to use this book however. As I read Russ' story, I think this would be a useful resource for any Chinese restaurant. You'll probably have to click on the PDF version to see the chinese characters for some of the dishes.

A window on Norway, by Valli Herman-Cohen profiles the new book "Kitchen of Light: New Scandinavian Cooking with Andreas Viestad." According to Valli, it "reads like a travel journal and a cultural history," as well as a cookbook. Find recipes at the end of the article for Green beans and peas with celeraic and mango, and Summer berries with bay leaf custard.

Are you having to take out a second mortage to buy vanilla these days? Read Charles Perry's Plain vanilla gets a fancier price to find out why and when it's likely to change.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS saves the day again with a recipe for Pumpkin pancakes.

It's California casual at its best is this week's review by S. Irene Virbila. She profiles Zax in Brentwood claiming that it "has perfected the art of the neighborhood bistro." She gives it 2 and a half stars and recommends the Steamed black mussels, spicy duck broth soup, roasted fig and beet salad, farmers market salad, lemon-asparagus risotto, sweet pea ravioli, olive-oil poached salmon, grilled pork tenderloin, steamed whitefish, coffee and doughnuts, mint chip ice cream sandwich. Instead of evening, come for lunch when the restaurant has a 3-course prix fixe menu at $15.

This week's Restaurant Journal: Italy by way of the back roads discusses Rocca, the new Santa Monica restaurant set to open this weekend by chef Don Dickman. It also provides an update on The French Laundry, Santo Coyote on Melrose, Union Restaurant in Santa Monica, and what's up with chef Scooter Kanfer.

How fast can you guess what David Shaw's article is about? OK, here's a hint, the title of the article is I'll have three Big Macs, two large fries and a lawyer. If you want to know where David stands on the debate, "Look, I'm on record — in this very space — ripping McDonald's for the appalling taste of its burgers, for its utilitarian, food-as-fuel approach to eating and for its encouragement of both gustatory timidity and, yes, rampant gluttony. But it's one thing to criticize McDonald's — and the rest of fast-food America — for super-sizing everything and for stuffing their products with more fat and sugar than a Southern politician's speech; it's quite another to say they should be legally responsible for the bulging waistlines of people foolish enough to consume all those giant portions and empty calories."

Edited July 31, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

An explanation -- I want to let you know that the LA Times is now posting all of their reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. So, for now, I have not provided links for the story about Rocco's, and the reviews of Studio in Laguna Beach and Hamjipark.

LA Times Food Section -- August 6, 2003

Chasing the Perfect Peach answers the mystery of why a peach that looks, smells, and feels the way it should, may not necessarily taste the way it should. E-Gulleteer Russ Parsons tells you how to increase your chances of getting a good one. Find out where to Get the Pick of the Crop. Recipes for Gingersnap-stuffed baked peaches, Peach Frangiapani Pie, and Peach Gelato. If you must peel your peaches, this swivel peeler is the right tool. Talk about it on this thread.

The greatest quote of the week comes from Regina Schrambling in "Reality at Rocco's, Minus the Cameras." She says, "Rocco's is becoming the 'Gigli' of restaurants -- people are packing in to see if the reality can be as bad as the 'reality' on TV." Find out what e-Gulleteers are saying here.

"We came to judge cheese," says Emily Green in her article about the competition at the American Cheese Society, 616 cheeses, 22 judges and 2 days. Find out about the winners in The really big cheeses. Tell us what you think here.

Barbara Hansen says you can't find food from the Goa region of Inda in restaurants so you best enjoy it at home in Beyond Vindaloo. Find recipes for Shrimp masala, Sausage rolls, and Potato chops.

Still life (or sparkling) is David Shaw's "Matters of Taste" column. He profiles painter Thomas Arvid and the wines for which he designs labels.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Mas de Gourgonnier Rose.

Counter Intelligence this week profiles Korean restaurant Hamjipark in mid-City. Barbara Hansen says they have "amazing ribs."

S. Irene Virbila reviews Studio in Laguna Beach and gives it 2 stars. The view is to die for.

Kobe beef is now for chili. Find out about that as well as Norman Van Aken opening a restaurant in West Hollywood and Eric Klein taking the helm at Maple Drive.

Edited August 7, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- August 13, 2004

Note: The LA Times is now posting all of their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

And you thought you knew gazpacho! This week's cover story is by Leslie Brenner who says, "Real gazpacho . . . is one of those simple perfect dishes in which the whole is greater than the sum of its parts." And, no adding tomato juice. Recipes for Ajo blanco (white gazpacho), Gazpacho Sevillana, and Gazpacho shots.

Valli Herman-cohen tells us that Chefs are shedding their whites and starting a revolution. Find out who's doing what and why.

All wines look the same in the bottle until you slap a label on. Read James Ricci's piece, And now, a few words from your Syrah to find out the why's and wherefore's of wine labeling.

Charles Perry writes An island unto himself. Anyone in LA in the late 1980's will recall chef Roy Yamaguchi and his wonderful and trendy restaurant 385 North. Well the restaurant is long gone, Roy has moved to Hawaii and has been a big hit ever since. Besides catching up on Roy, this article is really about his new book, "Hawaii Cooks: Flavors From Roy's Pacific Rim Kitchen," the companion volume to his current TV series on PBS. Recipes for Seared scallop salad with mango and fruit vinaigrette and Portuguese-style steak sandwich with spicy soy dipping sauce.

The strawberry's big night out is this week's Culinary SOS by Cindy Dorn. The recipe is for Cheese-filled crepes with strawberry sauce.

Forget the show "The Restaurant." So says David Shaw in his Matters of Taste column. Read his article A better recipe for restaurant reality on TV to find out about "Into the Fire," which airs on Food TV. Upcoming profiles include LA's-own Campanile. Talk about it here.

"Crunching through the land of empings" is Charles Perry's Counter Intelligence column this week. He reviews Indonesian food at Asian Deli in Diamond Bar.

S. Irene Virbila reviews Firefly in Studio City claiming that it "may be the hippest thing to hit the Valley in years." "Though people are clearly coming for the scene, they are finding a serious Mediterranean menu and an ambitious young chef." The chef is Gary Menes. She gives the restaurant 2 stars. Folks who live south of Mulholland are crossing the divide to get to Firefly.

The Wine of the Week is 2000 Angelo Gaja Ca' Marcanda Magari.

The Hotlist gives the top 10 books about food and cooking.

Edited August 15, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- August 20, 2003

Note: The LA Times is now posting all of their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

This is the color-themed issue -- green -- with articles on limes and avocados.

The brightest twist, by Regina Schrambling says limes are the season's unsung fruit. "Probably no other ingredient can enhance so many summertime indulgences with such a light squeeze." Read down to the end of the article for recipes for Bluberry-lime tart, Rum punch, Lime-herb beurre blanc, Tuna ceviche with mango and lime, and Ginger-lime pudding cake.

In a town where everybody wants to do lunch, at LA restaurants It's nearly extinct. David Shaw investigates the phenomenon.

We're eating where, by S. Irene Virbila profiles two places near Pac Bell Park in San Francisco that are worth a visit. Join the discussion already underway on e-Gullet here.

Despite being threatened by killer avocados, you'll be glad to know that e-Gulleteer Russ Parson, his family and his house areOK. He actually says that they're heaven sentin is California Cook column. Find recipes at the end of the article for Cold avocado bisque with goad cheese-chive quenelles, Grilled corn and avocado salad with lime-cumin vinaigrette, and Carne asada sandwiches with avocados and chipotle mayonnaise.

A whispering of Syrah, by Rod Smith, profiles the Beckman Vineyards in Los Olivos. While most new vintners pursue Chardonnay or Cabernet, the Beckmans took the road less traveled and are having success with Syrahs, Grenaches and other Rhone-style blends.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Bodegas Muga Rose.

Leslee Komaiko is Changing the salad paradigm in this week's Restaurant Journal. She tells about restaurants that are going beyond the traditional "3 C's" (i.e. Caesar, Cobb and Chopped Salads).

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila says Ocean Star is Still reigning in Monterey Park. She says it's "the ultimate Hong Kong seafood restaurant, and it's at its best when you know how to work the room. She gives it 2 1/2 stars.

Edited August 21, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- August 27, 2003

Note: The LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Picnics are going to hell in a hand basket. Or, in this case, without the hand basket. Charles Perry blames the demise of the modern picnic on the demise of the picnic basket in Romantic outdoor idyll? Hah! If the article inspires you to get your own classic picnic basket, find out where to buy one here.

The night beckons is S. Irene Virbila's "Critics Notebook" about the hot clubs where the food is also good. Put on your best black outfit and find out where to go for night life and eats. Or for a combination approach, here's some good information on Restaurants that morph into club scenes.

Pick a fish, any fish . . . for poaching that is and it doesn't have to be salmon, says Donna Deane. Recipes for Poached mackerel with ginger-soy sauce and soba noodles, Mediterranean poached striped bass, and Poached sole with basil-garlic oil and Champagne vinaigrette.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn comes through with a recipe for fresh pea bruschetta from Mario Batali's restaurant, Otto Enoteca Pizzeria. The season's second wave of fresh peas is coming so get ready.

Whether it's an Italian Pinot Grigio, a French Pinot Gris or an American wine of either name, they all come from the "gray Pinot" grape. But oh there are differences in the end result and they can all be great. Read about it in Rod Smith's Stalking the great gray grape.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Qupé Syrah Stolpman Vineyard.

Sure there's chicken soup to cure what ails you. Yet, according to Linda Burum, "Although Chinese therapeutic cooking traditionally has been practiced in homes, there has been a wave of health restaurants in Hong Kong, Singapore and Taipei, some of them with highly respected gourmet chefs, and the trend recently has reached the Southland." To find out how and where to get better read her column Where the food is meant to soothe.

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila says that Bombay Cafe is An original that has only gotten better. She says the best dishes are Samosas, fish pakoras, chutney sampler, bhel puri, dahi papdi chat, eggplant bartha, lamb frankies, Sindhi chicken, lamb vindaloo, Goan shrimp curry, kheer (rice pudding), kulfi (Indian ice cream).

[JFLinLA]

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- September 3, 2002

Note: The LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

For his column, Go ahead, get fresh, e-Gulleteer Russ Parsons shamelessly used the discussion boards to help prepare his story. But does he give us any credit? Huh? Does he? Actually, it's a good story about the great places to get great fish from great fish mongers all around town. Schools of Cooking gives you general characteristics of different types of fish. Trolling with chefs tells you how the pro's do it. Included are recipes for Yellowtail with tarragon aioli from Suzanne Jar at Tracht, and Provençal sardines from Michael Cimarusti of Water Grill. Find the thread Russ started on e-Gullet here and let us know what you think.

What do you do if you have a cooking gadget emergency? If you're in LA or Orange County, you call Chef's Toys which will have all the sauce pans, zesters, clogs, immersion blenders or whatever you might need, and they come to you. Read Leslie Brenner's The secret behind LA's great kitchens. Would they come to my house? Find out what's rolling off their trucks in From the Toys' chest.

Just off Melrose, a hidden jewel, is S. Irene Virbila's review of Nishimura serving "exquisite sushi in a stylish, contemporary setting." She gives the restaurant 3 stars and recommends the Steamed razor clams, Kumamoto oysters, live scallops, grilled live shrimp, thin-sliced octopus, grilled freshwater eel, sushi and sashimi.

Discover the true curry is Barbara Hansen's article about real curry -- the leaves that is. Recipes for a potato dish called Bateta shaak and a soup called Kottu. If you'd like to grow the leaves yourself, read For the cook's garden.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS provides a recipe for Garlic chicken with lemon sauce.

From the rich, red earth is Rod Smith's story about the Zinfandels of Mendocino's Redwood Valley.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 San Vincenti Chianti Classico.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko tells how restaurants around town are using GoBo lights to project their image, literally.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- September 10, 2003

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Have a little honey, honey. This week's cover story, "Something Wild," by Emily Green, is all about honey. Okay, it's an homage to honey and all its variations and complexities. Besides finding out all about the sweet stuff, and some of the great people who bring it to you, scroll down to the end of the article for recipes for Honey-brandy ice cream with fig jam (I've got to try this one), Edon Waycott's baklava, and Escarole salad with honey-glazed pecans.

Table for four? Not so fast, pal is David Shaw's Matters of Taste column. What's the biggest scourge of restaurateurs? No-shows!! Find out how bad the problem's getting and what restaurants are doing about it.

America's best barista is a 21 year old college senior from Cal Poly Pomona. Read Russ Parsons' She's 21 and fully caffeinated to find out about Heather Perry who is, not only the best in the US, but one of the world's 10 best. Talk about it here.

Culinary SOS by Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for trout stuffed with spinach and mushrooms.

Chili baby, poblano that is. Barbara Hansen says the poblano is "a true Mexican aristocrat." She tells you all about them, what to look for and how to use them. Find recipes for Crema poblana (poblano cream soup), Chiles en nogada, and Chiles poblano polenta.

It's mecca for collectors is James Ricci's Wine & Spirits column. This week he profiles Twenty Twenty in West LA boldly stating that it "may have the broadest and deepest inventory of old and rare vintages of any wine shop in the U.S." Find out how they do it.

The Wine of the Week is 1999 Hess Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

This week's restaurant review, Quirky and communal in Los Feliz, S. Irene Virbila reviews Hillmont calling it "the alternative chophouse from Cobras & Matadors founder Steven Arroyo." She gives the place one star and recommends the Summer gazpacho, mac 'n' cheese, pommes frites, French green beans, sauteed "wild" mushrooms, dry-aged New York strip, roast chicken, stuffed pork chop, and baklava with ice cream. This place is as much about the ambience.

Edited September 11, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- September 17, 2003

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Despite what you've heard, eggplant is not -- repeat NOT -- bitter. In fact, according to Russ Parsons, it's Downright voluptuous. Recipes for Eggplant stuffed with lamb and pine nuts, Cold eggplant salad, and Roast eggplant with walnuts.

Is it au revoir to the cork? Find out from David Shaw whether a new device will radically change how we open wine or if tradition will win out.

A blender is a blender is a blender. Right? Apparently not, especially when blenders range from $15 - $600. Read Valli Herman-Cohen's Step into liquefy for an evaluation of blenders in general and six specific models.

Read this week's Culinary SOS for a recipe for a Shrimp martini.

Chocolate cake is classic. Susan La Tempa provides Deep, dark inspiration stating that "High cacao chocolate gives creative chefs a reason to get intense about cake - and make an all time favorite even better." Find recipes for Engine Co. No. 28's double chocolate layer cake, Chocolate cake with bay laurel, and Love goddess cake.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, California.

Beef, straight up is this week review by S. Irene Virbila of Taylor's Prime Steaks, an LA classic in the Wilshire District. She gives it 1 1/2 stars and recommends the Grilled prawns, Molly salad, navy bean soup, burger made from steak trimmings, Porterhouse steak, cottage fries, tri-tip, pepper steak, bone-in prime rib, London broil, and apple pie a la mode.

The fusion cuisine of the Old World is Charles Perry's Counterintelligence column. This week it's about Restaurant Dunarea in Anaheim which is a Romanian restaurant with influences from Romania's neighbors.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- September 24, 2003

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Sorry all, need to be really brief this week but it's a good issue. Please check it out.

I cook, therefore I am, by Regina Schrambling. "The celebrity chef has gone sage and now cookbooks arent't about cooking. Recipes for Grappa-marinated peach and basil salad, Crushed carrots, and Sformatino of Gorgonzola.

Pastis, a Paris afternoon in a tall glass, by Leslie Brenner.

The chicken, bravely unadorned, by Emily Green. Forget the garlic, the powerful spices, even the grill. A splash of white wine, a little olive oil and a nice simmer are all this bird really needs. Recipe included.

Time to get in full fig by Mary Ellen Rae. Recipes for Fig jam crescents, Fig, prosciutto and blue cheese pizzas, and Fig-topped fleur de sel cookies.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS with a kicked-up tofu stir-fry.

It's not just about grapes by David Shaw. Lout Preston has a passion for bread, oil -- and his compost heap.

Wine of the Week -- 2001 Gorelli 'le Potazzine' Rosso di Montalcino.

Counter Intelligence: Japan by Barbara Hansen. Sushi, rich in creativity. Female chefs add a nontraditional touch to Àzami’s on Melrose.

S. Irene Virbila's Review. It's got everything but the canals. Tre Venezie (Pasadena) cuts through the kitsch to offer an elegant and innovative take on the Northern Italian tradition.

Edited September 26, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- October 1, 2003

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Whether you're voting for or against the recall, for the Lt. Governor, the Terminator, the stripper, the porn king or former child star, or are actually running for Governor yourself, you must plan your election night party. Read Here's to the losers by Charles Perry and Corie Brown for all the hot info.

What do cow dung, cow horns, stinging nettles and the autumnal equinox have to do with good wine? Find out in Corie Brown's Going new aged. Yea, yea, only in California, I know. But we do make good wine out here.

More decisions yet when dining out! Water, water everywhere, but not a drop free is David Shaw's Matters of Taste column.

Russ Parson has gone nuts, walnuts that is. (Ugh, sorry Russ. I couldn't help myself. ) Autumn's essence in a nutshell, with recipes for Walnut tapenade, Walnut and cheese stuffed pork chops, and Endive and mushroom salad with walnut vinaigrette.

PBJ? Not in this lunchbox is by Valli Herman-Cohen. Find out what chef mom & dads pack in their kids lunch boxes. I loved the photos on this one. Recipes for Drumettes with lime-pepper mayonnaise, Butternut squash with corn soup, and Orange sable cookies.

Culinary SOS gives the recipe for a Bom Dia muffin.

In A quick pick for growers, Rod Smith tells why summer storms are forcing an early harvest in California, leaving a smaller yield overall and half the Merlot crop.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Abadía da Cova Albariño.

In Counterintelligence, Linda Burum reviews two Vietnamese restaurant that serve Banh Mi sandwiches.

The new kid on the block is right at home is S. Irene Virbila's review of Amuse Cafe in Venice.

Read Corie Brown's Restaurant Journal to find out about Patina moving into the soon to open Disney Concert Hall, what Zagat is saying about LA, and what's up with chef Jason Trevi and others.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- October 8, 2003

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

It's fall and it's time for Short ribs, Good to the bone. Regina Schrambling says they're best prepared at home. Find out all about them including recipes for Short ribs on potato cakes, Braised short ribs with Chinese flavors, and Mushroom-braised short ribs. There are short ribs and then there are short ribs so don't be fooled. Read Donna Deane's Test kitchen notebook to make sure you get the right cut.

Thanksgiving is coming on fast and if you don't like the traditional holiday, it may be because you've never really tasted turkey the way it was intended to be. Read Valli Herman-Cohen's A turkey like none you've ever tasted to find out what a heritage bird is and how to get one.

The rule book is wrong according to Emily Green who urges us to Chill that Cab (and the Zin and Merlot too). Find out why.

Cindy Dorn comes up with a fall quiche from Campanile in Culinary SOS.

Evergreen vapor and mozzarella balloon is David Shaw's take on Trio and Grant Achatz which "may be the most surreal dining experience in America." Talk about it here.

A salad is just the beginning says Donna Deane who encourages us to fully explore all the aspects of arugula. Recipes at the end of the article for Wiener shcnitzel with sauteed arugula, Arugula pesto pasta, and Arugula salad with prosciutto di Parma. If you want to grown your own arugula, read Emily Green's The kitchen gardener.

What can three different wine makers do with the same grape from the same vineyard? That's what Tres Sabores is all about. Read about it in Rod Smith's Three riffs on the zinfandel grape.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Alban Vineyards Central Coast Syrah.

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila gives her take on Noe and the Omni Hotel in downtown. She gives the place 2 1/2 stars.

In Counterintelligence, Barbara Hansen likes Bombay Bite in Westwood.

Read Leslee Komaiko's Restaurant Journal for information on how Bastide chef Alan Giraud tools around town, changes at L'Orangerie, Malo on Sunset, the latest from Celestino Drago and more.

Edited October 10, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- October 15, 2003

Be sure to check out this board for a terrific Q&A with LA Times Food section writer and former editor Russ Parsons, including some great threads discussing this week's articles. You'll get a much fuller sense of Russ, how he works, the workings behind the food section, and more. A very active and informative Q&A.

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Chasing the wild past is this week's lead story by our very own Russ Parsons. Sardine fishing, like it was done in the old days, is back in San Pedro. You say you don't like sardines? Maybe that's because you've never had them fresh. Read A taste that makes you forget the tin. Find recipes for Sardines on fennel salad with walnut pesto, and Sarde en saor (sweet-and-sour sardines). Discuss Russ and his fish here.

This will come as not surprise to e-Gulleteers but you can't always believe the Zagat guide. David Shaw writes about it in his Matters of Taste column. Talk about this article here. Talk about LA in the Zagat survey here.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn brings us a Cream of mushroom soup with sherry & brie.

For Cookbook Watch, Barbara Hansen and Leslie Brenner say there are a batch of good pastry books coming out this season.

Rod Smith profiles wine pioneer Walter Schug who, after 50 harvests, isn't done yet.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Le Printemps Rosé.

Here's the Cookbook Hotlist.

The best dim sum in town is at Honk Kong Palace in Rowland Heights, according to S. Irene Virbila. If you're interested in an e-Gullet Dim Sum lunch in Rosemead, check in here.

Check the California Board and the Q&A with Russ Parsons to talk about all this and more.

Have a great week everyone.

Edited October 17, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- October 22, 2003

If you missed out, be sure to check out last week's terrific Q&A with LA Times Food section writer and former editor Russ Parsons. Click here.

To view the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print, click here for the PDF version. This will allow you to see all the articles. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. However, the LA Times is now posting their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Pumpkins, they're not just for pie or jack-o-lanterns. That's what Regina Schrambling says in Out of their shell, and the rest of world seems to know this. Looks like the recipes provided are really great including Pumpkin tarte tatin, Pumpkin ragout with chorizo and shiitake mushrooms, Pumpkin lasagna, and Arugula and roasted pumpkin salad with blue cheese and pecans.

Joachim Splichal -- the myth, the legend, the empire, the truth. Corie Brown's The man behind Patina's curtain is a wonderful profile of Splichal and the history of the Patina empire. A few weeks back, he also wrote about the impending move to the new Disney Concert Hall. Click here.

Beer, it's not just for pizza, burgers and BBQ (do I detect a theme?). Read James Ricci's Beer gets invited to serious tables and find out who is doing what with great brews. Find out about the ultimate beer dinner designed by Hans Rockenwagner, Sang Yoon and Dahlia Solomon. Recipes provided for Miso and beer marinated black cod, Oatmeal, stout-braised prok daube, Ginger cakes with dried fruit and beer compote, and Adult espresso night-cap.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw tells how "Restaurants are ceremoniously pairing drinks (vintage juice, flavored milk) with kids' meals." This actually looks like a lot of fun.

Wake up and smell the pancetta, by Susan LaTempa, is about 3 chefs that are doing great things with breakfast. Recipes for Lemon dill omelet, Butternut squash with pancetta hash, and Soufflé pancakes with blackberry compote.

You gotta love a place that serves pizza by the yard and 'da bomb.' Well, S. Irene Virbila does in Deliciously offbeat, her review of Cheebo on Sunset Boulevard. It gets 2 stars and she recommends the Sausage and fennel pizza, Cheebo chop, ribollita, ravioli, cedar-planked wild salmon, brisket, PorkWich, "da bomb."

In Counter Intelligence, Charles Perry rides a gravy train to longevity at Bill's original taco house. In business since 1949, located on MLK, recommended dishes are Silva burrito with chili gravy, taco, beef tamale. This is not health food.

Edited October 22, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- October 29, 2003

It seems the LA Times has taken down it's PDF link allowing viewers to see the LA Times Food Section as it appears in print. Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Summer's gone but not quite. It's fall but not quite. Russ Parsons' California Cook joyously brings us through the seasonal transition. Recipes for Pomegranate-glazed lamb chops with rosemary applesauce and Crostini with roasted tomatoes and goat cheese.

He may be a feared attorney who reduced Michael Eisner to a bumbling mess on the witness stand, but Bert Fields is a known as a warm host. Go spy on lives of the rich and famous with Corie Brown in Cristal and fajitas - so sue him. Recipes for Ensalada playa los gatos and fajitas.

Millionaires! Showgirls! Truffles! is David Shaw's column about how culinary high rollers go head to head over a really big fungus in Vegas, baby.

From the wild, wild East is Regina Schrambling's Cookbook Watch column about The Breakaway Japanese Kitchen by Eric Gower. Recipes for Japanese coleslaw, Edamame, mint pesto pasta, and Beet salad with ginger, smoked trout and walnuts.

Culinary SOS brings a recipe for Free-range chicken breast with a citrus and rum glaze from the Barefoot Bar & Grill at the Paradise Point Resort & Spa in San Diego.

It must be Halloween. The drink this stuff? by Valli Herman-Cohen is about black vodka. Really! Recipes for October screwdriver, Blacker dahlia, Black mystique, and Black plague.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Scott Paul Chardonnay 'Kent Ritchie Vineyard'.

The Hotlist is the list of best selling cook books in Southern California.

He's rocking their world is S. Irene Virbila's review of Maple Drive in Beverly Hills. New chef Eric Klein "has created a thrilling menu." She gives the restaurant 3 stars and recommends the Chilled shrimp soup, potato and Swiss chard soup, crispy calamari, Maryland blue crab cake, black bass with raisin-caper sauce, whole rotisseried poussin, prime veal rib chop, veal Milanese, lemon grass rice pudding, peach Melba, pear upside-down cake.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko says restaurants are "taking the kitsch out of the kitchen — and sending it to your table."

[JFLinLA]

Okay, okay so it's not the weekly digest but on Sunday, in the Opinion section of all places, the LA Times had a wonderful piece about Phillipe the Originalby Merril Shindler (our former restaurant reviewer -- before Irene and before Ruth). Phillipe's, for those that don't know, is a classic LA eaterie where, legend has it, the french dip sandwich was invented and you can still get a 25 cent cup of coffee.

Read the article here.

Talk about it here.

I'll be back mid-week with the regular digest.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- November 5, 2003

Special Restaurant Issue

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

S. Irene Virbila says "the restaurant drought is over" in her Critic's Notebook Taking the Town by Storm. "L.A.'s restaurant scene is sparkling with an effervescence we haven't seen since the mid '80s when Citrus, Spago, Michael's, Max au Triangle, St. Estephe, City Restaurant and Trumps were showing the rest of the country how it's done." Be sure to check out the Addresses of the Moment so you don't miss out.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw says, "Part of the reason we're seeing more adventurous menus is because we're finally willing to try something different."

The man behind the look of all those new, hip restaurants is Dodd Mitchell. Read about the hottest restaurant designer in town.

Another way to hang out at a great restaurant is to take a cooking class. Leslee Komaiko talks about it in Teachings of the masters. "At restaurants around town, chefs are informally holding court with cooking lessons, connecting with fans -- and having a lot of fun." Recipes for Spanish paella from Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger's Ciudad, Norsk salmon burgers from Michael Shafer at the Depot restaurant, and Chocolate Cookies from Brook Williamson at Amuse Cafe.

We may have invented a lot of food trends in California but did you know that The cafeteria (is) an L. A. original started in downtown LA in 1905 . . . and they were good. And then there were three profiles the 3 remaining old grand cafeterias. Here is the timeline of cafeteria history. Did you know there is a direct link between Clifton's Cafeteria and why the City of Los Angeles couldn't just fire Police Chief Darrell Gates after the Rodney King riots? It's not in the article but let's see who really knows their LA history.

Leslie Brenner says interesting wine lists are turning up where you'd least expect them in You won't believe what's pouring. Here are the Secrets of the wine sleuth.

The Wine of the Week is 1999 Zerbina 'Torre di Ceparano' Sangiovese di Romagna.

Linda Burum gushes about Massimo's Gelato, the old-fashioned, artisanal gelateria in Venice -- California, not Italy.

S. Irene Virbila gives 1 1/2 stars to Zen Grill & Sake Lounge in Westwood and recommends the Rock shrimp and calamari tempura, chicken satay, kalbi (short ribs), crispy calamari salad, pan-fried tofu steak, Mongolian lamb, grilled rib-eye steak with long beans, and coconut creme brulee.

Edited November 6, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)