DIGEST: Los Angeles Times Food Section

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- April 28, 2004

No time to post the links to the individual articles this week but here's the link to the LA Times Food Section. From there, you can easily get to any of the articles summarized below.

You can now lift recipes directly from Amazon.com. Some cookbook authors like it, others don't. Russ Parsons tells you why.

Charles Perry tells who is doing amazing things with seafood cocktails. Recipes for Santa barbara spot prawn martini with Thai spices, Cafe Atlantic's shrimp cocktail, and Dungeness crab with mano and red grapefruit. In a companion article, find out about the history of the oyster cocktail and a recipe.

In response to his colum on rude customers, David Shaw talks about what constitutes bad service and when you should complain.

There's a quick rundown of the book winners at the International Association of Culinary Professionals.

Barbara Hansen tells everything there is to know about lemon grass including recipes for Lemon grass drink, Yum takrai (lemon grass with dried shrimp and cashew), and Lemon grass-coconut rice pudding. Find out how to grow your own if you want.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Alphonse Mellot 'La Moussiere' Sancerre.

For her review this week, S. Irene Virbila gives 2 stars to Opaline and its new chef, Jason Travi.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko tells who likes to dine upstairs or downstairs at different restaurants. You can also catch up on the latest news about Cobras & Matadors, Amuse Cafe & Tamayo.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- May 5, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles. However, you have to pay a fee for them.

Lots of recipes today:

Susan LaTempa writes about the life and times of wealthy Mexican expats with impeccable taste in food. Recipe for spicy pepitas (pumpkin seed) dip included

It's spring and Regina Schrambling writes about the cult of baby vegetables and fruits. Recipe included for roast poussin with spring garlic-herb stuffing

Recipe: Baby artichoke and pea shoot salad with favas and pecorino Romano

Recipe: Chive-glazed baby carrots

Recipe: Roast poussin with spring garlic-herb stuffing

Corie Brown writes about the 05 Zagat results. and how certain restaurants were, in a sense, stuffing the ballot box.

Corie Brown checks out "The Working Parents Cookbook". Included are the recipes for flourless chocolate cake and Poopsies creamy corn cakes, and chicken kebabs.

Recipe: Flourless Chocolate Cake adapted from "The Working Parents' Cookbook"

Recipe: Poopsie's Creamy Corn Cakes

Recipe: Chicken kebabs marinated in yogurt and spices

Barbara Hansen gets the recipe for Golden Cauliflower from Samer Elias of Sam's by the Beach in Santa Monica Canyon.

Jean T. Barrett writes about the the new status liquor: tequila.

David Shaw complains about the California Senate's ruling against the sale of fois gras produced by force fed ducks.

Buy some cute dishes for Mother's Day from Pomp.

Edited May 7, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- May 12, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Russ Parsons writes about delicious, expensive, interesting varieties of wild salmon. Recipes for grilled wild salmon with fennel slaw, crispy-skinned wild salmon with braised spring peas and mushrooms, and Oven-steamed wild salmon with homemade Green Goddess dressing and radish salad included.

Barbara Hansen has Opaline's Celery Root Soup Recipe

Susan LaTempa writes about mmm, cherries jubliee. Recipes for quick cherry preserves, cherry clafouti, and cherry thumbprints included.

David Shaw writes about odd adjectives used to describe wine (melted asphalt?).

Russ Parsons writes on how/why fishermen are trying to cut out middlemen when bringing salmon to you.

Cookstuff: Mikasa cordial glasses, $8 each at Pomp

Laurie Winer discusses what the deal is with all these damn tasting menus these days.

S. Irene Virbila Wine of the Week: 2002 Shea Wine Cellars, Block 23, Shea Vineyard

Ooh, a few of many heated letters on the foie gras debate.

Julie Gaynor writes about a new breed of steakhouse.

Emily Green reviews La Cachette

Edited May 12, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- May 19, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Regina Schrambling on lemons.

Recipes for lemon aioli, Veal with lemon and capers, double-lemon cake included.

Barbara Hansen demystifies cactus paddles a.k.a. nopales.

Recipes for chile verde with pork and nopales, guisado de nopales (stewed cactus paddles), and Huarachitos Tizoc (cactus melt) included.

Russ Parsons on the success of Fergus Henderson's book "Nose to Tail Eating", an offal cookbook.

Egullet mentioned. Bourdain-Henderson lovefest mentioned.

David Shaw on why the U.S. doesn't have a Michelin Guide equivalent, and why the Zagat Guide ain't it.

Tara Weingarten talks about Delia Viader and making wines from lesser known grape varietals

Charles Perry discusses Azeen, an elegant new Afghan restaurant.

Been there, done that.

Correction to last week misprint. Pacific Dining Car is open 24 hours.

Edited May 21, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- May 26, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Today, it's all about farmers markets. L.A. denizens rejoice.

Russ Parsons on our awesome farmer's markets, yeah!

Recipes included: sugar snap peas and shrimp with chive mayonnaise, grilled cheese sandwiches with sweet onions, seafood stew with peas

Donna Deane on making great dinners from farmer's market finds.

Recipes included: Steamed fingerling potatoes with spring garlic, Three-berry crisp, Green and yellow beans in lemon mustard vinaigrette

Laurie Winer on stuff to eat while getting veggies/fruit at the Hollywood Farmer's Market. Pupusas! Uh, Jambalaya! Oh geez, why can't they leave the aebleskivers in Solvang?

Addresses for pupusas, jambalaya place, as well as other places mentioned in article.

Barbara Hansen and Valli Herman give you a List of L.A. Farmer's Markets

Same List, Different Format

Valli Herman on the new electronic benefits card that is replacing food stamps at the farmers markets.

Farmers markets where you can use the new EBT card.

David Shaw on the irrepressible partyloving restauranteur Michael McCarty.

Russ Parsons tells the story behind a mysterious old wine bottle with a hand-written label.

S. Irene Virbila's Wine of the Week: 2002 E. Guigal Condrieu 'La Doriane'

Barbara Hansen has the recipe for Lincoln Steakhouse Americana's braised turnip greens.

Edited May 26, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- June 2, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Here's to love (and lunch) -- Emily Green (Recipes included)

She sneered at weddings but some Campanile chefs, gay newlyweds and toast (crunchy kind) made her see religion.

Another wedding gift to buy? Don't panic -- Susan LaTempa

cool wedding gifts

When it comes to bubbly, just say yes -- David Lansing

Champagne: it makes everything better.

Battle over organic standards continues -- Corie Brown.

Under pressure, Ann Veneman rescinds 4 questionable directives issued by her staff.

The current rules of organic foods. -- Corie Brown

mentions no fish meal for livestock feed, no antibiotics (some exceptions), only permitted synthetic pesticides

A virtual Roman holiday -- Leslie Brenner (Recipes included)

Roman food: fresh ingredients, bold spice use

L.A. Times Food Book Hot List for June 2, 2004

Poet finds his muse in the vines -- David Shaw

Pascal Marchand: French Canadian kid turned Burgundian vintner

Wine of the Week: -- S. Irene Virbila

2001 La Serre Nuove dell' Ornellaia

Sly, sensual and sophisticated -- S. Irene Virbila

Virbila revisits Jar and gives it 3*.

Authoritative Thai, with a backbeat -- Barbara Hansen

Ban Phai: good Thai food, Thai country music close to Thai Town

Correction to last week's fingerling potato recipe

(fleur de sel not 2 fleur de sel)

Correction to last week's farmer's market listings.

(Santa Clarita is in L.A. County not Ventura)

Edited June 3, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- June 9, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

It's an L.A. Thing -- Charles Perry

On hamburger history: he says L.A. made them first, makes them best.

A driving tour of the best burgers -- Charles Perry

"Primo Patties": Cassell's, The Bucket, Apple Pan, Carney's, Woody's Smorgasburger

"Charburgers": The Habit, Hamburger Central, Astro Burger

"Old Time Grease Bombs": Baker's Drive Thru, In-N-Out Burger, Yuca's

Unique: Original Texas Barbecue King, Sirloin Burger, The Shack

Spice with crunch -- Russ Parsons

A story on radishes and how they are more versatile than you thought.

A new brunch bunch -- Leslee Komaiko

Now serving brunch: Mix, Xiomara, Senor Fred, G. Garvin's

Also info on Share Our Strength's Taste of the Nation fundraiser.

Also "Rodelio Aglibot, former executive chef at Koi, is opening Yi (pronounced "e")in the former Tahiti restaurant space."

The wine shipping news -- David Shaw

On why wineries should be able to ship directly to the consumer, and why the current laws forbidding direct shipping are wrong.

Thoroughly modern meze -- Anya von Bremzen

History and descriptions in this interesting article on meze, "Middle East's answer to Spanish tapas, Venetian baccari or Mexican antojitos".

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2002 Domaine Daniel Dampt Chablis: "This entry-level village Chablis from Daniel Dampt is everything textbook Chablis should be, and a terrific summer wine at an affordable price. " (about $15)

Correction to last week's article.

Krug Grand Cuvée Champagne is from the French Champagne producer not Charles Krug, the CA winery.

Correction to last week's article

One of Jar's restaurant's partners is named Phil Rosenthal not Neal Rosenthal

Edited June 10, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- June 16, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Shimmering Comeback -- Russ Parsons

"Innovative fisheries are reviving California's treasure, the incomparable abalone." Also, info about the rare white abalone. Recipes

Nirvana, by the juicy bushelful -- Donna Deane

Thanks to that hot spring weather, apricots, peaches, plums and other stone fruits are excellent this year. Get them! Recipes

Where outside is in -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 2* to Whist in Santa Monica. English Regency theme, food improving, still hip

Mama mia! The sandwich that ate downtown -- Charles Perry

Discusses Eastside Market & Italian Deli in L.A.'s old Little Italy. great sandwiches (hot pastrami, eggplant parm, etc) and lasagna. about $5-7

Meet the naked grape -- Jordan Mackay

"A few California vintners are turning away from oak, making crisp Chardonnays that really feature the fruit."

Could it be curtains for tablecloths? -- David Shaw

Talks about how "fine dining", in the European sense, may be on its way out in L.A.

Culinary SOS -- Barbara Hansen

Recipe for Dodger Stadium's lentil salad

Wine of the week -- S. Irene Virbila

2001 Domaine Tempier Bandol: about $28, full-bodied and lush, great with anything grilled

Cookstuff

All-Clad barbecue set $99.99

Letters: Readers flip for their own burger joints

letters about last week's L.A. burger article, many complaining he missed their favorites

Letters: Italiano, sì; romano, no

One reader complains that last week's article on Roman cooking has recipes that are not really Roman.

Letters: Savoring the controversy

Emily Green's piece last week celebrating a gay marriage got lots of mail, mostly positive, a couple critical.

Correction to June 2 article

A review of cookbooks June 2 gave the wrong title for one of the books. the correct title is "Rome, at Home: The Spirit of La Cucina Romana in Your Own Kitchen." Also Suzanne Dunaway is no longer associated with Buona Forchetta Hand Made Breads.

Correction

The first Fatburger stand was not the corner of San Vicente and South La Cienega boulevards, but at Western Avenue between 30th and 31st streets.

Edited June 16, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- June 23, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Scissors, paper, flavor -- Regina Schrambling

She shows you how to make dinner en papillote, from seafood to seasonal fruits. Recipes

Ice cream: meet your makers -- Cindy Dorn

She tests some of the current ice cream makers out there. Favorite: Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker ICE-20 Series. $50. Produces "a firm yet fluffy, evenly frozen, easy-to-scoop ice cream in exactly 20 minutes" with easy cleanup. Nice looking

A plot-driven garden story -- Susan LaTempa

A community garden right off Hollywood Blvd? Who knew? $40 a year for a 15'x15' plot and the waiting list is 2-3 years at Wattles Farm. Recipes

A perfect summer romance -- Susan LaTempa

Great salads come from grilled leftovers and pantry staples. Recipes

We're sure you'll get the yolk -- Leslee Komaiko

Eggs are showing up in different guises: sticky rice topped with seaweed, pickles, and a quail egg, poached egg on halibut, filet mignon with a sunny side up egg.

A case of bottled-up anxiety -- David Shaw

David Shaw gets scared for his wine cellar when his house is fumigated for termites. Turns out fumigation might be good for the wine? hehe

Correction to June 9 food section

Woody's Smorgasburger's correct phone number is (310) 414-9344. Also, in last week's article about Eastside Market & Italian Deli correct phone number (area code was wrong) is (213) 250-2464; the fax number is (213) 250-8064.

Edited June 23, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- June 30, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Today is the barbecue issue:

Fireworks on the grill -- Laurie Winer

Ludovic Lefebvre (new exec chef at Bastide) talks about his new post as he prepares barbecue, using exotic woods, lamb, lobster, spices. Oh and a pineapple. FYI, he's a young, fairly cute guy with tattoos, looks sort of like Dave Navarro in the pic. Recipes

A simple, smoky solution -- Regina Schrambling

Judy Rodgers (Zuni Cafe, SF) grills favas (shell on) and salts them. Easy and fabulous.

The key to global cooling -- Barbara Hansen

All sorts of shaved ices represented here: Singapore's ice kacang, Korea's bingsu, Philippines' halo-halo, Mexican raspado and tezgüino, Taiwanese slush. Recipe for ice kacang

Grilling in the age of wild flavor -- Charles Perry

A story on the current crop of barbecue books. Perry seems most impressed with "Paul Kirk's Championship Barbecue" ($18.95) about how to compete in barbecue contests, or just cook like you do. Recipes

Culinary SOS -- Barbara Hansen

She has the recipe for "cool green gazpacho from Esperanza An Auberge Resort at Cabo San Lucas"

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2001 Dominio de Pingus Flor de Pingus: " Made from old vine Tempranillo, the 2001 Flor de Pingus is something of an earthy aristocrat with wonderful aromas of dried plums and dark cherries, earth and smoke. Sweet on the nose, in the mouth it's full bodied and very dry with dusty tannins and an interesting finish. " about $50

He'd love to blend in -- David Shaw

Barbecue season means beer. Shaw does not like beer. He has tried many kinds to no avail. Reader advice welcomed.

Cookstuff -- Donna Deane

Drip-Less basting brush, $7.99 from Cookin' Stuff, Torrance, and Rains, Ojai, or $8.25 from http://www.rainsofojai.com. Big, flat, bamboo grilling skewers, package of 25, $4.95 from Sur la Table. Stainless steel paper-plate holders, 2 for $10.95 from Sur la Table.

Edited June 30, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- July 7, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

The orchard masters -- Russ Parsons

Fitz Kelly (Fitzgerald's Premium Ripe Tree Fruit ) and Art Lange (Honey Crisp Farms) are two growers that embody excellence in farming. Their incredibly sweet and juicy fruit can be found at farmers markets in SF (Ferry Market) and L.A.

Choose the ripest, then enjoy -- Russ Parsons

Parsons shows you how to choose, ripen, store, and serve your peaches and nectarines. Recipes

Italian charm in our own Venice -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 2 stars to Piccolo Cipriani, in Venice. Charming little 10 table place with "enthusiastic owners". She liked pastas, some specials here. Basic wine list (mostly italian). Thursday night tasting menu

The small, the good and the beautiful -- Susan LaTempa

Story about what people are doing now with canapés. Great for summer parties Recipes

Just a gigantic rumble in the belly? -- Corie Brown

A hilarious story about how the "culinary world shakes it head over the growing influence of food TV". Focus is mostly on Rachel Ray, who irritates culinary professionals with her perky demeanor and has the #1 rated show (30 minute meals) on the Food Network.

The long and cool of it -- David Lansing

In Vegas, he finds cocktail excellence thanks to Fritz Lipari (Commander's Palace), and Tony Abou-Ganim (formerly of Bellagio). Recipes

In London, the sun rises on a new culinary empire -- David Shaw

Thanks to the strong pound, overnight flights, increasingly sophisticated diners, the food scene in London has never been better.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2002 Domaine Henri Perrot-Minot Chambolle Musigny vieilles vignes: "The texture is incredibly silky, the fruit fine and sweet, with something of the earth behind it and a heady scent of dark cherries and blackberries. A very pretty wine, one that can turn a simple roast chicken into a feast." about $50

Correction

Last week's Ludovic Lefebvre article mentioned binochon wood, which comes from Japan not China. Also wrong supplier.

Correction

June 16 Wine of the Week article. Bandol is east of Marseille not south.

Correction

Last week review of Norman's (calendarlive story). Norman's is in WeHo, not Los Angeles.

Edited July 8, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- July 14, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Special Issue/ The French in L.A.

A picnic with Alain -- Leslie Brenner

"In honor of Bastille Day, Alain Giraud, L.A.'s top French chef, prepares a Provençal lunch made for our great outdoors." Recipes

Go west, Jean-François -- Charles Perry

A little history on French immigrants in L.A in the late 1800's, early 1900's. There was once a "Frenchtown" in L.A.

The long, exquisite moment -- Daniel Young

A piece about aperitifs, a drink to start a meal. Talks about different types of aperitifs, shifts in tastes. Includes list of places where you can buy aperitifs.

Carême de la Carême -- Regina Schrambling

Talks about the book "Cooking for Kings: The Life of Antonin Carême, the First Celebrity Chef" by Ian Kelly ($26) a biography and cookbook. Recipes

A French classic returns -- Sarah Grausz

Piece on ile flottante (floating island) Recipe

California adventure -- David Shaw

French-born winemaker Stephan Asseo is producing some interesting wines from his Paso Robles vineyard.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

Champagne Jacquesson Cuvée No. 728 Brut: "...a beautifully complex Champagne, one of the best I've ever tasted as this price level. It's nice and toasty on the nose, has lots of fine bubbles and a lovely, drawn-out finish." About $40

Authentic fare that's magnifique -- Leslee Komaiko

"Special French-themed nights, even French-themed weeks, are an ongoing attraction at restaurants all around town" including JiRaffe, Chaya, Mimosa, Bosc and others.

A lovely little bistro by starlight -- S. Irene Virbila

Cafe Stella in Silver Lake gets 1*. "An interesting L.A.-French vibe", good service, and food is textbook French bistro but not stellar.

LA Times Hot Food Book List

Formatting is weird. You need to scroll way down to see it. " Bobby Flay's Boy Gets Grill" is #1.

Edited July 14, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- July 21, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

My dinner with Andrea and the fuqi feipian gang -- David Shaw

He and a bunch of other diners tag along each week with Carl Chu, author of the new "Chinese Food Finder - Los Angeles & the San Gabriel Valley: A Guide to Chinese Regional Cuisines", so that they can get the good stuff at Chinese restaurants, not the gringo pap. He gets bored of Chinese so they start going to other places as well.

Heirlooms arrive -- Russ Parsons

Very detailed, well researched article on heirloom tomatoes. Includes some history, descriptions and even tomato variety names. Tomato breeding legend Tom Wagner mentioned, Craig LeHoullier quoted! Recipes

A who's who of heirloom tomatoes -- Russ Parsons

List of heirloom tomato varieties you might find at your local gourmet markets or farmer's markets.

Seeking the heights -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 1.5* to the newly done over (?) Windows (Transamerica Building), which has redone its menu to "modern steakhouse". Strip steak good, some seafood dishes good, desserts poor (done off site), service varies

Summer, filled with flavor -- Regina Schrambling

Learn here how to stuff all your summer produce for variety at the table. Recipes

Neapolitan pizza, guaranteed -- Sarah Grausz

Peppe Miele from Antica Pizzeria (Marina del Rey), is founding president of Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN) in the U.S. He helps other chefs learn how to make pizza the Genuine Neapolitan Pizza way.

It's the light fantastic -- Barbara Hansen

She has the recipe for Lucques hazelnut cake.

Blue-collar grapes in a revolution -- Jordan Mackay

"In Italy's Piedmont region, a number of winemakers are elevating Barbera", a previously underappreciated grape. List of wines avail in L.A., at end of article.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Weingut Salomon-Undhof Grüner Veltliner Hochterrassen: "perfect summer drinking. Very crisp, it carries hints of lime and citrus along with a beautiful minerality and the characteristic green apple and white pepper flavors of this indigenous grape." About $10

Edited July 21, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- July 28, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Season of smoke -- Regina Schrambling

She says you can smoke nearly anything and have it taste better.

Beguiled, dish by dish -- S. Irene Virbila

She apparently went on a trip to SF, and discovered Quince, Eccolo (Berkeley), A 16, Cortez, Lüx.

New heart of 'The City' -- S. Irene Virbila

Virbila discovers the wonders of the Ferry Building Marketplace in SF.

Plein-air pleasures -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 1.5* to Mix, best dishes are " Risotto with oyster mushrooms and favas, baby beets with sherry vinaigrette, chicories and Bosc pear, seafood cataplana, crispy duck confit, grilled fresh wild boar tenderloin, fresh berry pain perdu ", waiters go into detail about every little detail, nice ambiance

A private chef for Mr. Mogul -- Valli Herman

Neil Zevnik, on his life as a private chef for Hollywood celebrities.

A revival in the Rheingau -- David Shaw

Schloss Vollrads winery: "New owners and a string of great vintages return a Riesling house to its glory days."

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 O'Reilly's Pinot Noir: This is the perfect summer-weight red. In warm weather, serve it ever so slightly chilled. And a word of caution: One bottle is not going to be nearly enough. It drinks well with anything from the grill or barbecue, plays up to the ever-reliable roast chicken or duck, and simply loves beef and lamb. In short, a lovely and versatile Pinot Noir at a price that doesn't require a special occasion."

Cookstuff -- Charles Perry

Zeke's BBQ Sauces, $3.95, available at Zeke's Smokehouse

Correction

"The sodium content for many of the recipes in last week's Food section was incorrectly stated in grams, not milligrams. "

Correction

Last week's review of Windows should have had the restaurant in the Transamerica building, not Transamerica pyramid.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- August 4, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Height of fashion -- Anya von Bremzen

Ferran Adriá and his Spanish cohorts are creating a new tapas scene that features things like "egg foam with truffles spooned into eggshells and nestled in an egg carton". Tapas are now intellectually as well as gustatorily stimulating. Recipes.

Height of Fashion -- Jordan Mackay

A story about Spanish sherries, great for eating with tapas in the middle of summer. At end of article are locations where the sherries can be found in L.A.

The fondue explodes: Chocolate's everywhere -- Sarah Grausz

A story about the new party fad: a chocolate fountain. This is a 3 foot fountain that constantly spews warm chocolate and you're supposed to dunk stuff in there.

Girl power captures the kitchen -- Cindy Dorn

She writes about her 12 year old daughter's experience going solo in the kitchen. Recipes.

Say the magic word -- Leslee Komaiko

"Secret" menu items in certain restaurants (like In & Out's 'animal style' burger) are the topic in this article. Second part is about small bites in L.A., featuring (soon to be closed) Alex, Falcon, and Amuse Cafe.

Wine of the week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Keller Estate Oro De Plata Sonoma Coast Chardonnay: "Keller Estate has its lush, vanilla-scented Chardonnay too, but this one, made with the same estate-grown grapes, but vinified entirely without oak, is a slam dunk with sushi, sashimi and other Asian food. Gold with reflections of palest green and light citrus notes, it's entirely food friendly. Give it a pad Thai and it sings. Pour it with miso-marinated black cod and it cuts right through the richness. " (about $19)

Only 653 cases of this stuff were made so get it fast.

Culinary SOS

Recipe for red bean pancake with coconut sauce, from Yujean Kang in South Coast Plaza.

Correction

"A photo on the cover of last Wednesday's Food section showing a hostess at the restaurant A 16 was credited to Kim Kulish. It was taken by Randi Lynn Beach. "

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- August 11, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

The chicken man -- Russ Parsons

"Josiah Citrin, chef at Mélisse, is crazy for the bird. No wonder he has a few tricks up his sleeve for preparing the most succulent, flavorful fowl." But is his $84 rotisserie chicken worth it?

Three with vision -- Corie Brown

Talks about the work of three Californians who have vastly increased our store of wine knowledge and choices: Frank Kysela (Kermit Lynch), Jim Fetzer (Fetzer Vineyards), Allen Meadows (Burghound newsletter)

Where the wild greens are -- Regina Schrambling

"With peppery, pungent wild arugula, everything is new again. Tossed in salads or pasta, or wilted in hot sandwiches, it's irresistible." Recipes

COOKBOOK WATCH -- Charles Perry

"Schott's Food & Drink Miscellany" (Bloomsbury, 2004: $14.95). Tidbits include the fact that Marie Antoinette did not say "Let them eat cake", but "Let them eat brioche".

CULINARY SOS -- Barbara Hansen

Recipe for Water Grill's trifle

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2001 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico: "A gorgeous deep red, it's Sangiovese with a touch of Syrah that doesn't take away from its typicity but somehow gives the Sangiovese a little push of color and body. I could happily pop the cork on this one every night. " (about $16)

Correction

"An article about chocolate fountains in last week's Food section described Callebaut brand chocolate as French. It's Belgian. "

Edited August 11, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- August 18, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

What Julia really taught us -- Russ Parsons

"Since her death last Friday, everyone has been talking about how Julia Child taught America to cook. But that was not the greatest of her gifts. For those who had the privilege of knowing Julia, her life was a grand lesson in how to live. "

There's never too much -- Regina Schrambling

She argues that there can never be such a thing as too much zucchini if you know what to do with it. There's a recipe for zucchini madeleines among others (hmm). Recipes

Cookbook Watch -- Laurie Winer

2 books on Greek food/manners.

"The Olive and the Caper" by Susanna Hoffman (Workman Publishing, $19.95) tries to convey something about Greek culture and manners. Simple, tasty, Greek recipes.

"The Philosopher's Kitchen" (Random House, $35) goes into ancient Greek cuisine, simple but excellent recipes.

When the Greeks toss the demitasse -- Daniel Young

The frappé was invented in Greece 47 years ago. Simply instant coffee, sugar and cold water or milk shaken together, it's a cafe mainstay there. Nikos Dimou, the author of "The Misery of Being Greek" thinks "frappé has been the main marketing theme of Nescafé in Greece for decades. All that brainwashing definitely has changed the cafe culture in Greece."

In Mendocino, a new voice from the east -- Jordan Mackay

A group of winemakers in Mendocino are trying to emphasize region over grape, unlike everyone else in CA. "By using primarily grapes that have long, pre-Prohibition histories in Mendocino, the hope is that the Coro wines will express the soul and terroir of Mendocino County, becoming as emblematic of place as the blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are of the southern Rhône and as Chianti is of Tuscany. "

Cookbook Hot List

How to Grill by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $19.95) is #1

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Domaine J.P. et J.F. Quénard Chignin Vin de Savoie: "Pale gold with a glint of green, it tastes like a juicy Granny Smith. This refreshing summery wine, something exotic, comes in at about $10. Not bad for a lovely little wine that's made it all the way here from the Savoie, where most of it is usually drunk up by hikers and skiers."

Culinary SOS -- Barbara Hansen

Recipe for Luna Park's Mediterranean tuna salad sandwich

Sit. Eat. Pay. -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 1* to the (in)famous Sushi Nozawa. She considers it one of the most overrated restaurants in SoCal. "Curt and ungracious" service, not particularly interesting Tokyo style sushi, and always the attitude from Sushi Nazi himself.

Correction

"In a July 28 article about San Francisco restaurants, the tapas restaurant Iluna Basque was misidentified as Lluna Basque."

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- August 25, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Exotic, redefined -- Russ Parsons

"As Laotian immigrants replicate the tastes of home, they're bringing once-unusual Asian produce into the marketplace." Including their own special rice and vegetable seeds so unique they had to take it to UC Davis for genotyping

Thrill of the chill -- Donna Deane

She shows you how to make "tea ices" using various teas and an ice cream maker. Recipes

The grind that makes the cup -- Sarah Grausz

You know blade grinders for coffee, right? She checks out 6 burr grinders, which make better coffee. Their favorite was the Pasquini K2 ($425), which made the best espresso but with less crema than the $365 Mazzer Mini. They thought that Capresso #551 ($125) was a good entry level machine, definitely better coffee than a blade grinder.

The scene's the thing -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 1.5* to Cobras & Matadors. She likes the scene (just like Spain, she notes several times) and the tapas and sangria. Fun and affordable on the Eastside.

A label of his own -- David Shaw

Ed Sbragia, chief winemaker at Beringer Vineyards is starting up his own label, Sbragia Family Vineyards, which next spring will release 7 wines, and will continue to work at Beringer as well. "The Family Vineyards Cabernet will be a lot like the Beringer Private Reserve, a real intense, in-your-face Cab, and the Chardonnay — well, I want to make white wines that are like a Bâtard-Montrachet. I love that big, butterscotch, crème brûlée character."

Grab that pastry -- Regina Schrambling

"Low-carb stores are struggling. Atkins dieters are mocked in ads. Has the protein craze run its course?" Sales of low carb stuff, like the Coke C2 and Pepsi Edge are not doing well, while places like Panera Bread are doing great.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Tommasi Vigneto Le Volpare Soave Classico: "Ripe and concentrated, it has a zingy crispness that makes it perfect summer drinking. It's 100% Garganega and a bargain at the price.

It's tremendously food friendly, too, great with raw or steamed shellfish, with grilled fish, and any kind of fish stew. Introduce a bottle to anything Asian or fusion. It could be a love match." about $10

Cookstuff -- S. Irene Virbila

Lamu market baskets ($20 large, $14 medium, $10 small) from Flora Bella Farm stand in Santa Monica Farmer's Market. They are "two-handled plaited palm baskets from Lamu Island off Kenya. Made by a farmers collective, they're a traditional shape and weave and have a fresh, green smell. Farmer James Birch donates a portion of the sales of each to the Farmers Kitchen, a project partially funded by the USDA. "

Letters from Readers

Russ Parsons' article last week on Julia Child brought in more than 50 letters

Letters from Readers

S. Irene Virbila's 1* review of Sushi Nozawa last week garnered some letters as well.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- September 1, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Romance of the rancho -- Barbara Hansen

"Encarnación's Kitchen" (University of California Press; $24.95) features 19th century recipes from Old California cuisine in this historical cookbook

Where chaos is the custom -- David Shaw

Writes about his experiences with the odd and conflicting "rules" when you try to bring back food into the U.S. "Ultimately, it seems to me, it's mostly a matter of luck and timing — of the knowledge, judgment and even, it appears, the mood of individual inspectors. "

Lazy, long weekend -- Regina Schrambling

Recipes for brisket, sour cream potato salad and olive coleslaw in this piece about what to make for Labor Day weekend.

The golden state of ale -- David Lansing

"Craft breweries in California are turning out some of the best-tasting pale ales in the world."

Back to old school cool -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 2* to La Dolce Vita. This venerable Old Hollywood joint was recently restored by new owners. She liked the baked clams oreganata, Scampi, roasted pepper with anchovies, among others. Desserts too sweet and gooey for her. Some good italian wines on list.

There's a waiter in my soup -- Emily Green

"They persist in interrupting us at table with that inevitable, annoying question. A diner bites back."

Look here for a related egullet conversation going on right now.

Summer fresh--call it a wrap -- Barbara Hansen

Piece on where to get the best Vietnamese summer rolls. She mentions Buddha's Belly on Beverly, renowned Brodard in Garden Grove (OC), Au Lac vegetarian restaurant in Fountain Valley (OC), Grand Garden in Westminster (OC), Pho So 1 in Van Nuys.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2002 Radio-Coteau Timbervine Russian River Valley Syrah: "This wonderfully complex Syrah from winegrower Eric Sussman and Radio-Coteau channels the northern Rhône in every nuance. Deep ruby and wildly aromatic, it packs masses of vivid fruit — mostly blackberries and blueberries. The grapes come from a steep vineyard on the slopes of Black Mountain in the Russian River Valley. The cool climate there produces a wine with a long lingering finish of spice and smoke. " about $40

Culinary SOS -- Barbara Hansen

recipe for a light, fruity blender drink from Legends Restaurant and the Spa Cafe in Carlsbad

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- September 8, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Guess what, the L.A. Times is now putting little pics in with their recipes. Very cute. Well, I saw 'em in the Russ Parsons melon article anyway.

Sweet Mystery -- Russ Parsons

This story is all about sweet, delicious melons. Recipes (with pics!)

Meet the melon family -- Russ Parsons

A companion piece to the one above, he shows you how to recognize the different families and what to look for.

'Round the world, a taste of home -- Beth Fortune

Story about meatballs from Mexican albondigas to Chinese-style pork meatballs in broth to Swedish köttbullar and many more. Recipes

Taste of a thousand lemons -- Charles Perry

Story about limoncello, Sicily's signature liqueur. He shows you how to make it at home. eGullet mentioned. Katie Loeb's recipe for limoncello.

The latest in tasteful eyewear -- David Shaw

"A German company has created frames with detachable arms you can use as chopsticks. But why?" More importantly, does anyone want to put those glasses back on after eating?

Cookstuff -- Donna Deane

This year's model of the Oxo Good Grips I-series swivel peeler is pretty awesome she says. Great for making wide strips of lemon zest. $9.95 from Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma. Replacement blade cartridges are $4.99 at Cookin' Stuff.

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Domaine du Grand Arc La Tour Fabienne Corbières: (This wine) "is bone dry — and quite a mouthful. Though it's scented with rose petals and wild strawberries, it's sturdy enough to accompany little toasts spread with tapenade for an apéritif or a chicken roasted with herbs. Like all good rosés, it's lovely on its own but versatile enough to go with any summer meal."

Pastéis: hot on the trail of a legend -- David Leite

He tried to get the recipe for the famed pastéis de Belém, a sort of custard tart in a flaky crust. He failed. However, he found a close facsimile nearby. Recipe

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CalendarLive stories

Birthplace of a trend -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives .5* to Joachim Splichal's restaurant Nick & Stef's. Though he reinvented the steakhouse, now the food is inconsistent. She's not impressed with the steaks. Oysters and shrimp cocktail are good here. High markups on a lot of wines, corkage complimentary.

The high cost of haute -- Corie Brown

In the last two years, Gerard Ferry, owner of L'Orangerie has had his hands full with the onslaught of lawsuits from former employees, including a (dismissed) lawsuit from Ludovic Lefebvre, now Bastide's exec chef. A class action lawsuit involved the employee tip pool, which L'Orangerie routinely docked when servers made billing mistakes. Read the article for more.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- September 15, 2004

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Poetry in motion -- S. Irene Virbila

"A mortar and pestle can bring you back to what cooking has always been about: sensuality, attention, transformation." She makes aioli, pistou, mayonnaise with a low tech mortar and pestle. Recipe

Laying the groundwork -- Charles Perry

Piece on the different types of mortars/pestles, what they do well, where you can get them, pics.

Feasting updated -- Valli Herman

Rosh Hashana begins today at sundown and Herman has spruced up some recipes like honey cake, chicken with fresh figs, and herbed rice with seasoned currants.

Time is ripe for change -- Jordan Mackay

"In the United States, especially in California, the trend toward riper grapes and more alcoholic wines has been significant... With the rise in alcohol, wines, like so many other Americans, have gained weight, becoming fleshier, rounder and softer, as well as more jammy and more monolithic."

In food circes, dismay -- Regina Schrambling

"Reports of financial irregularities at Beard Foundation bring questions, resignations." recent egullet discussion here

He'll always have Paris -- David Shaw

"A recent trip to France leaves a restaurant lover longing for more affordable times." $48 appetizers, $37 cheese plate, meals costing him $600 (30% more than before, and without all the goodies he usually gets such as foie gras, lobster, truffles)

Los Angeles Times List of Top Food and Cooking Books

#1 is "30-Minute Meals 2 by Rachael Ray (Lake Island Press, $14.95) Still going strong. "

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2001 Villa Antinori Toscana: "Aged a year in oak casks and eight more months in bottle, it's really a Supertuscan, but without the usual high price tag.

The 2001 Villa Antinori beguiles with a sweet and true scent of cherries, but the taste is darker and more complex, earthy and chewy. Seamless and, as always, beautifully made, it's a wine I could drink all night." about $18

Correction

Regarding last week's recipe for limoncello: No matter what top you use to close the bottle, you must not fill the bottle all the way to the brim.

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CalendarLive stories

Adventuresome table -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 2* to Yi Cuisine. Another Asian fusion restaurant. After a shaky beginning, food and service are getting on track. Menu has Hawaiian (updated mac salad, ahi poke, etc), Filipino (pork belly adobo, pata) notes. $20 corkage. Young crowd, less date restaurant than place to hang out with friends.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- September 22, 2004

To view the articles below, register a username with www.latimes.com. Registration is free. There is a separate Calendar section with more food articles, but you have to pay a fee for those.

Straight from the farm -- Russ Parsons

Our man tells us about an unlikely Fresno restaurant, Echo. "It's simple, elegant, delicious food, the kind you expect to find at Chez Panisse and Zuni Café in the Bay Area, and Lucques and Campanile here in L.A. But the difference is, it's in Fresno, and most of the fruits and vegetables that are served were grown within a half-hour's drive....One thing I remember for certain was the elation I felt when I was finished. I wanted to hug everyone in sight. I felt like I'd witnessed a small miracle." Did he mention it's in Fresno? Recipes

Hot links to some edgy bloggers -- Laurie Winer

"When a good writer chronicles his life, it is art. When an amateur feels the need to chronicle his life by listing what he made or ate for dinner each night, often the best that can be said is that it's touching. In the world of food blogs, you may be touched and find some great recipes in the bargain." Her favorites are Chocolate and Zucchini, The Julie/Julia Project, and Saute Wednesday. Recipe

Thrilling chiller -- Barbara Hansen

She has the recipe for Ciudad's Minty Lime Cooler

Download, then uncork -- David Shaw

"There's a new toy on the market for folks I think of fondly as "double geeks" — people who like both fine wine and electronic gadgets. It's called "Parker in Your Palm," and it allows users to download ratings and tasting notes from ERobertParker.com, the online version of Parker's Wine Advocate newsletter, and transfer the data into a Palm personal digital assistant."

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2000 Kante Malvasia: "The scent is wildflowers, peaches and honey — summer in a glass — and the texture is reminiscent of Viognier. Bone dry, the 2000 has a bright snap of citrus and a strong minerality that makes this Kante Malvasia ideal as an aperitif or with food. Pour it with grilled fish or shrimp, seafood stews or calamari. " About $30

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CalendarLive stories

It's still summer here - Leslie Komaiko

Mentions Il Cono (family run gelateria), Al Gelato (restaurant that has gelato), Angelato (American style gelato).

Also, "Rika Horie and former R23 owner Haru Maruyama opened Rika this week at Sunset Millennium Plaza. The cuisine is "French-Japanese: using French technique with Japanese ingredients," according to Horie.".

Warren Schwartz is now exec chef at Whist, in the Viceroy Hotel.

Jon and Bob Long (Georgia and Roxbury) are opening a new club called Central, firsst week of Oct.

David Rosoff, formerly of Opaline is now gen manager of Campanile.

One door closes; another opens -- S. Irene Virbila

She gives 2* to Cafe Capo, in the former Opaline space. Slightly less expensive than Capo. Competent, consistent cooking with great produce and meat, but not exciting. Service varies from "crisply efficient" to theatrically effusive.

Suddenly Saigon -- Linda Burum

Linda Burum suddenly gets excited about Vietnamese food.

[FoodZealot]

LA Times Food Section -- September 29, 2004

Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, is free with a registered account. Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee.

The golden bowl by Daniel Young

The author makes the case for adapting bouillabaisse by using California sculpin in place of the native fishes of Marseille.

Endless summer of rosés by Charles Perry

Mr. Perry extols the legitimate virtues of various French and Spanish reds, which are gaining in popularity and match well with many summer foods. Eight moderately priced ($6 - 26) rosés are compared.

Give us the greens by Beth Fortune

Suggestions for different treatments of leafy edibles. Recipes for chicken, peanut and noodle wraps, grilled scallops with braised romaine, and seared foie gras with frisée and sautéed pears.

Bend, don't break By David Shaw

Tips for hosting a dinner party are offered, with anecdotes. Chief among them is to be flexible.

CULINARY SOS

Recchiuti fudgy brownies by Barbara Hansen

The recipe for dark chocolate brownies from Recchiuti Confections.

Penja pepper by Donna Deane

A white peppercorn from Cameroon is featured.

2003 Paolo Scavino Dolcetto d'Alba by S. Irene Virbila

Ms. Virbila recommends this crisp Piedmontese Barolo at an attractive price - $18.

Spelling correction for Hiep Le's name, owner of China Beach Bistro.

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CalendarLive stories

Where the food's the surprise by S. Irene Virbila

A review of the recently opened 310 Lounge & Bistro, located at Pico and 34th near the eastern border of Santa Monica, which was formerly Flint's.

The king of dumplings reigns here by Linda Burum

Hwang Hae Do is reviewed for its wang mandu, which are described as large Korean dumplings filled with beef and kim chee.

[FoodZealot]

LA Times Food Section -- October 6, 2004

Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, is free with a registered account. Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee.

The age of indulgence gets its own Gourmet by Emily Green

A review of the newly reissued and restructured Gourmet Cookbook, which contains many winners, but falls a bit short. A recipe is included for pecan currant sticky buns.

Sweet indecision by Russ Parsons

Riffing with the bounty of two seasons, Mr. Parsons offers up recipes for grilled eggplant with walnut-cilantro pesto, bean and winter squash gratin with garlicky bread crumbs and pear clafouti with pistachios.

Their passion and their muse by David Shaw

A roundup of writing about fine wine in the form of newsletters/circulars/mailers/brochures by Randy Kemner, Roberto Rogness, and Kermit Lynch.

CULINARY SOS

Delicious three-part hominy by Barbara Hansen

The shrimp and grits recipe from Jack Fry's restaurant in Louisville, KY is procured. Between the country ham, madeira, coffee, shrimp, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, there's no deficit of flavor.

Dinner dilemmas - A couple of letters in response to the Bend, don't break piece from last week.

2002 Talley Estate Pinot Noir by S. Irene Virbila

The Wine of the Week is a Burgundy-like pinot from the Arroyo Grande Valley, along the Central Coast.

In bouillabaisse, dueling fish stories. A letter from author Clifford A. Wright disputes some assertions by Daniel Young in last week's bouillabaisse feature. Mr. Young disputes the disputation of his assertions.

A letter Defending Fresno from perceived incidental slights in a review of Echo. Far be it from me to pile on...

For the record Geography correction

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CalendarLive stories

A chef comes into his own by S. Irene Virbila

Urasawa is reviewed. For free, you can read jschyun's eG review with pictures.

Right at home on Melrose by Charles Perry

"At Tere's, the fresh and simple Mexican dishes have an air of sophistication."

Sushi Nozawa leads the pack in '05 Zagat by Corie Brown

Nozawa bears the one rating to rule them all (for '05).

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- October 13, 2004

Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration, but you can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week.

This week was all about Paso Robles.

A Napa just waiting to happen -- Corie Brown

"The nexus of organic farms, serious restaurants and up-and-coming wineries is transforming Paso Robles."

Pour it while it's really fresh -- Emily Green

Companion piece to the Corie Brown's Paso Robles story. "California farmers cultivate our taste for new-season olive oil." "It took California ranchers, such as Joeli Yaguda in Paso Robles, planting dozens of new olive groves, laying in shiny new presses and then getting new season oil to us in such a startlingly fresh state. This is now prompting a rethinking of how, when and why to use olive oil."

With lifetimes of experience -- David Shaw

"Tim SPEAR makes big, overpowering Syrahs that Robert Parker calls "prodigious," "revolutionary," "unctuously textured" and "pedal-to-the-metal, full-throttle" with high alcohol content (from 15% to 17% in most cases), in Paso Robles. Spear also believes in reincarnation and thinks he was a Burgundian vintner in a previous life and will be a Burgundian vintner in the next life, but due to global warming he thinks Syrahs will do better in Burgundy then.

Limestone cowboys -- Jordan Mackay

"Paso Robles' vintners are focused on Rhone-style blends and Syrahs" Why Paso Robles? "There were a lot of climates in California that would work, but we wanted limestone soils because that's what they have in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. "

Wine of the Week -- S. Irene Virbila

2003 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard: "From grapes grown on the steep slopes of Paso Robles' James Berry vineyard, the 2003 Copain Roussanne has a scent of honeysuckle and white peaches. It's beautifully balanced, with a lush texture and a taste of almonds and green olives, with a drop of lemon at the end. Drink it as an aperitif, or with smoked salmon or trout. It has the brawn to stand up to grilled prawns and other seafood, or a nice piece of halibut or sturgeon." about $30

A weekend jaunt to wine country -- Corie Brown

Now that Paso Robles has been gentrified, there's stuff to do for tourists. She gives you a bunch of links to check out like www.pasowine.com, http://www.pasorobleschamber.com, and a host sites for B&B type places.

A tasting of Rhône styles from Paso Robles -- Corie Brown

A bunch of the Times food journalists sat down to a wine tasting of various wines from Paso Robles. "The panel's favorite was a white Rhône-style blend from Tablas Creek, which sells at the vineyard for $22." They also liked some red blends that included "Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and sometimes Counoise, (and were) were big, rich, spicy and likeable." They thought most of the Syrahs were too tannic, too alcoholic and "one-dimensional". Bottom of article has list of their favorites.

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Calendarlive Stories

Trattoria's farewell -- Leslee Komaiko

Alto Palato is closing its doors. Starting Nov 7, all wines will be half price. Owner Daniel Terribili says to renovate would be cost-prohibitive and he wants to focus on his Sparks restaurant chain instead.

"Christophe Bellanca has been named the new executive chef at L'Orangerie."

Christian Shaffer of Chloe is opening a second restaurant called Avenue.

"Umenohana, a restaurant specializing in tofu and yuba (soy-milk skin) dishes such as lobster and tofu steamed in bamboo leaf with spicy ponzu sauce, opened last night in Beverly Hills. Although part of a Japanese chain, Umenohana has none of the telltale signs of a typical chain restaurant. Instead, it's luxurious and serene, and filled with original Japanese art."