In a sort-of equivalent of one's eyes being bigger than one's stomach, I wound up getting to only nine of the above list, plus three bakeries, a gelato place, and two chocolate shops that weren't mentioned.
Bar Mut was a casualty of sleep deprivation. After a 9½-hour red-eye accompanied by a cute but babbling/fussing/crying eight-month-old in the next row, a 2 p.m. lunch was sacrificed in favor of a three-hour nap. I can't remember where I went instead of Maleducat, or why. Xerta turned out to be too late for my schedule. (One week wasn't enough for me to adapt to those 8 p.m. or later dinners.) Sartoria Panatieri was a major disappointment: OK crust, undercooked sausage, liquid-y cheese (and too much of it), bland tomato sauce.
The food star of the week was the eight-course prix fixe tasting menu lunch (24.5 euros!) at La Sosenga, an under-the-radar (but not for long) wine bar with thoughtful, creative food that reflects and riffs on Catalan cuisine. Here are the menu (at the end) and some pictures. (I subbed a creamy cheesecake for the French toast.)
