Last week, Significant Eater and I took a nice, long drive. We spent two nights in Beacon, NY, and then on to Portland, ME for another 4 nights. With thanks to the estimable @johnnyd for his input, as well as research conducted independently, we ate very well. As a matter of fact, at one point I mentioned to SE that if we had restaurants in NYC, like a few of the places we dined at in Portland, they'd become part of a regular rotation. Not just for the quality of the seafood, but practically all of the service was stellar, the places were comfortable and not crazy loud as they can be here, and the price/value was very good.
The drive from Beacon (as it would be from our location on the lower east side) is long. Like 6 - 7 hours long, and we arrived at our airbnb right at check-in time, which worked out well. A beautiful little apartment, located in a mid-1800's house, in the lovely west end (with a private hot tub!).
Now, when your first meal in Portland is at a Portland classic, and you're in Portland, you really need to start with:
First of all, these literally were some of the best oysters I've ever eaten. (And yes, Tomales Bay, Hog Island, The Marshall Store are all good too, but I'd put these up against them any day). Something to do with the freshness, I'm sure. Something to do with how well they are shucked, I'm sure. 3 varieties, all local...I could eat these daily.
Apps followed...the roasted potatoes and squid knocked it out of the park. In the background, house-made gnocchi with a lamb ragu was also lovely...they had obviously gotten a lamb or two, as there were other lamb dishes as specials; they sounded great, but when in Rome Portland, it becomes necessary to eat fish...
And this whole roasted black sea bass, with assorted mushrooms in a lovely, buttery sauce was my choice. Do not pass up Fore Street and its gorgeous open kitchen with lots of fire, if you're ever in Portland and have the chance; I believe it's one of, if not the restaurant, which put Portland onto everyone's dining radar. Look at how beautiful this is!
The next day, we started with breakfast at what is evidently a Portland institution, and judging by the crowd, mighty popular...
Now Becky's was only a short walk from our Airbnb, but no one really told me about how hilly Portland is. It's not San Francisco hills, by any stretch of the imagination - but it's freakin' hilly, and we walked a lot - 4 to 5 miles daily, which is a lot for an old(er) person. Good way to burn off the calories, I suppose. So lunch was a no-brainer, at least to see what was up with their selection...
2 of each of 6 varieties; once again, all from Maine. All delicious. I didn't love the lobster roll here, though Sig Eater's fried oyster bun was good, so I'd say by sticking with oysters, you won't go wrong. (Those Basket Islands - whoa - big, meaty and briny for days!)
Dinner Monday night was a bit of a challenge, since many places are closed, especially during the slow season. We walked, and we walked...
This is an old F.W. Woolworth's on Congress Street.
And this is Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's 300+ years-old home, located nearby.
One of the issues when traveling, at least if you're me, is the whole where the hell is a bathroom. In Portland, they make it especially difficult...
As they evidently enjoying hanging their bathrooms off of cranes...
And since I don't do well with heights...(to be cont'd.).
