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Ducasse cookbooks - no holds barred


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I have a few by Chef Ducasse - Flavors of France, his first book (Riviera), Atelier, his bistro book, maybe a couple I am forgetting.

 

Let me say at the outset I prefer books that are written with as little adjustment to home limitations as possible.  I want to learn the chef’s techniques, equipment and materials, but above all else, I want to try and capture the chef’s mind, see the inner life and how it expresses in her or his cuisine, and that things not be “simplified” or “adapted” for the home kitchen.

 

To that end, on Ducasse, I have long looked at his massive bibles, beginning with his first, the Grande Livre de Cuisine, followed by Desserts and finally on Mediterranean cooking.

 

On the other hand, as they are bloody expensive, I’m loathe to take the plunge if they are basically reference entries, no real techniques, reasoning and/or genesis behind a given recipe, and/or recipes themselves.  

 

In a word, ignoring the fact a cuisine stuffed with black and white truffles (especially, as is his wont it seems, the latter), foie, and caviar isn’t something I’ll be working but on rare occasions (like, “My Last Supper” rare, lol), is the book useful as a working and teaching text, from the professional kitchen point of view?

 

 

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-Paul

 

Remplis ton verre vuide; Vuide ton verre plein. Je ne puis suffrir dans ta main...un verre ni vuide ni plein. ~ Rabelais

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His food just doesn't move me. I don't know why really, but I  much prefer Pascal Barbot -the Astrance book is incredible. Yannick Alleno are more my jam -I'd love to have a copy of his / Ma cuisine Française

 

The book that came out on the bistronmy movement is probably my favorite cookbook of lady year.

 

 

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Whoops, spaced this one, sorry.  I hear you on him.  I can’t quite pin it but somehow his masterly blending of the rustic and the refined gets me. His atelier and flavors of France especially have been really rewarding for me personally.  I am guessing the Grand Livre will likely never be used, which kills me since I am pathetic in thinking any book, even pretty pictures, sure looks swell in my stacks.  Likely not at that price, and not in this lifetime with Alba truffles, caviar, and endless mounds of foie. (bummed face).

 

Thanks on the book ideas.  I’ve got Astrance on my cart but can’t seem to find it anywhere but the stratospheric Amazon thing ($609?  Do I hear $3103.69?  $1423? ), but very much hope to get it at some point.

 

Ironically your post came back to memory as I received Alexandre Gauthier’s book, which I’d had high hopes for.  Pretty disappointed.  Aside from the fact it isn’t a hardcover in any way I’ve ever seen (exposed binding?  Is that a “cover board” or something like that? Really a collection of gorgeous food and idyllic country, very spare on writing. Just not my style.

 

Saw a reviewer who felt the same, and he or she recommended Astrance very highly, which triggered me in remembering your post.  Thanks again for the rec’s and thoughts.  Eyes opened....!

 

At the end of the day, I should just admit and accept I’m a terminal classicist, with limited gifts - merely an eternal longing for mastery, not invention. Good god...just got “Les Fastes de la Cuisine Française” today.  In my heart, I’d be no happier than learning at the feet of Carême...

 

edit:  Thanks on the Alleno, too.  Know almost nothing about him so was grateful for the suggestion.  A bit steep there too for the moment, but eyes peeled.

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Edited by paul o' vendange (log)

-Paul

 

Remplis ton verre vuide; Vuide ton verre plein. Je ne puis suffrir dans ta main...un verre ni vuide ni plein. ~ Rabelais

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, hotsaucerman said:

Re: astrance, the guys that run nowservingLA have said it’s out of print with no plans for further printing

 

I'm glad I have my copy! Highly recommended if you can find a used copy somewhere. Wow, that sucks though because a lot of the good French books don't get a translation and this one did.

 

Btw if you are in LA and want to take a look at it I believe Jon from Japanese Knife Imports has a copy on his bookshelf at work! 

Edited by AAQuesada (log)
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