Chinese Hams

[liuzhou]

It is possibly not well-known that China has some wonderful hams, up there with the best that Spain can offer. This lack of wide knowledge, at least in the USA, is mainly down to regulations forbidding their importation. However, for travellers to China and those in  places with less restrictive policies, here are some of the best.

 

This article from the WSJ is a good introduction to one of the best - Xuanwei Ham 宣威火腿  (xuān wēi huǒ tuǐ) from Yunnan province.

This Ingredient Makes Everything Better

I can usually obtain Xuanwei ham here around the Chinese New Year/Spring Festival, but I also have a good friend who lives in Yunnan who sends me regular supplies. The article compares it very favourably with jamon iberico, a sentiment with which I heartily agree.

Xuanwei Ham

 

Xuanwei Ham

 

more coming soon.

 

 

Edited September 24, 2020 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Jinhua ham (金华火腿 jīn huá huǒ tuǐ) is a dry-cured ham from Zhejiang Province in eastern China, specifically from the town of Jinhua. It is made from the rear legs of a breed of pig native to China. Production starts in winter and takes up to 10 months. The traditional process is at least 1,000 years old, and consists of salting, soaking, and ageing the hams.

 

Traditionally, Jinhua ham is added to stews and braised dishes to deepen the flavour. It is also used extensively in stock making. It is also a key ingredient in the dish known as “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall”, a type of shark’s fin soup, a dish recently banned from official banquets by the Chinese communist party and falling from favour elsewhere.

 

However it can be used in many ways. I have used it with spinach in pancakes, in omelettes, on pizza, with noodles etc. But most often I just eat it straight from the pack. Delicious.

 

Jinhua Ham

 

Jinhua Ham Slices

 

 

[KennethT]

Fascinating... As you said, I had never heard of such high quality Chinese hams, though I really shouldn't be all that surprised.

[liuzhou]

The third ham in the usually recited trilogy of "famous hams" is Rugao ham (如皋火腿 rú gāo huǒ tuǐ). It is the least well known of the three in China, even among the Chinese. Although I have eaten it in restaurants with great pleasure, I have never seen it on sale where I live.

 

It is made in Jiangsu Province and like Jinhua ham it's made from one particular breed of pig., in this case, Jiangquhai black skinned pigs.

 

Next time I'm in JIangsu, I'll pick some up! Don't hold your breath. Until then, no pictures from me but there is one here.

Edited September 24, 2020 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Fourth on the list is Anfu Ham (安福火腿 - Ān fú huǒ tuǐ) from Jiangxi province. Here, members of the jury, is a 500 g slice of the said delicacy, which I took possession of today. Beautiful.

It's a dry cured, then smoked ham and can last for many years. Deeply full of flavour.

 

 

Edited July 31, 2022 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

Today, I was delighted to lay my hands on a half kilo of Jinhua ham offcuts and trimmings for a mere ¥31.57. This compares to the ¥140+ I would normally pay for an equivalent amount of sliced ham (or the ¥1,000 for a whole 3.5 kg ham), yet these bits and pieces are perfect for soups, sauces or even omelettes, salads etc.

 

 

Edited November 26, 2022 by liuzhou (log)

[liuzhou]

 

Somehow, I had almost forgotten this topic, but a recent encounter reminded me. So another ham for your delight – this time one of the most interesting rare and, in my view at least, one of the finest.

 

I’m talking about 诺邓火腿 (nuò dèng huǒ tuǐ), Nuodeng ham (above) from Yunlong County, Dali Prefecture, Yunnan province. This is a highly protected product which can only be made under strict conditions in one small village and its surrounding mountains and valleys. Nuodeng village 诺邓村 (nuò dèng cūn) is populated by people of the Bai ethnic minority.

 

Nuodeng Village - image: guzhen100.com

 

The hams come from a local, black skinned breed known as 诺邓黑猪 (nuò dèng hēi zhū), Nuodeng Black Pigs which are relatively hair-free. These roam freely in the mountains eating wild plants and herbs. When they reach the right size they are fattened for about a year by being fed corn and soy beans. Curing begins around the Spring Festival which is just over, so basically they are working on them as I write.

 

The legs are carefully bled and as many blood vessels as possible removed. Then they are sprinkled with the local grain wine. After being left for a day or two, they are then salted. But not with any old salt. The area is known not only for its pigs but for its salt wells which have been mined since the Tang Dynasty (618 to 907 CE). It is high in potassium, magnesium and other trace elements. The legs are covered in this salt which is massaged into the flesh. This procedure is then repeated and the hams placed in wooden barrels, covered with a lid and left for around three weeks.

 

After that, the hams are removed and again covered, this time in a mix of ash, salt and the local mud. These muddy hams are then suspended from the peoples’ rafters for a minimum of a year but more typically three to five years.

 

After two years, the hams develop a green mould, which looks like they are spoiled but when this outer coating is removed one can see that the insides are unaffected but, according the locals, the taste is much improved.

 

Nuodeng hams drying and showing the characteristic green mould

 

I have only ever eaten the 3-year version and it was great. Easily as good as jamón ibérico, if maybe not jamón ibérico de bellota. Of course, it doesn’t come cheap. $USD 180 / kg. expensive by Chinese standards. I spent $55 for 300 grams.

 

150 gram pack of Nuodeng ham

 

 

Edited yesterday at 08:05 AM by liuzhou (log)