TRIO QUESTIONS

[chefg]

IF ANYONE HAS QUESTIONS ABOUT TRIO'S FOOD ASK ME.

[Patrice]

Welcome chefg

I suppose you are working at Trio...

I had a ver very good meal there about 5 months ago.

The chef Grant Achatz is a very creative man with a solid background.

I had the tour the force degustation menu and i would say it was one of the best meal I had in Chicago in a long time ( Tru, Trotter, NoMI, Blackdird, Spring and Everest included...)

[awbrig]

IF ANYONE HAS QUESTIONS ABOUT TRIO'S FOOD ASK ME.

Just curious, why should we ask you? Frequent customer? Head Chef? Give us some more info as to your insights. Thx.

[cabrales]

chefg -- Welcome While I have not yet dined at Trio, I am interested in doing so and have a number of questions. Please only respond to the extent you are comfortable doing so.

1. Food & Wine Best New Chefs Event Might you have access to the menu for the F&W October 2002 event? Could you consider posting the menu, and any insights on dishes you may have helped prepare and/or tasted? (I have assumed, since your username is *chef*g, that you are or were a cuisinier at Trio)

The Amex Platinum July 2002 newsletter describes an October 5, 2002 Food & Wine Best New Chef Event at Trio:

"Join Food & Wine Magazine's 2002 Best New Chef . . . Grant Achatz at Trio in Chicago as they host a team of alumni Best New Chef award-winners. Your multi-course feast will highlight the culinary skills of these extraordinary talents, complemented by wines from Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd."

Alumni Best New Chef participants (subject to change) are described as Jean Joho of Everest, Paul Kahan of Blackbird, Sandra Gamba of NoMI, Don Yamauchi of Le Francais and Takashi Yagihashi of Tribute (Detroit).

In case you are interested, the November 5 post in the below-linked thread describes the menu for the NY Best New Chefs event at Blue Hill. Have you dined at Blue Hill?

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=8452

2. Utilization of Solid/Liquid/Other States In reviewing the indicative menus on your website, I noted Chef Achatz's attention to the solid, liquid or other state of certain components of his dishes. Are you aware of some of the chef's thinking in this regard, and could you compare that thinking to the approach adopted by certain Spanish chefs, if you are familiar with certain of the latter's dishes?

Examples of menu items that appear to have "solid/liquid/other state" effects are: watermelon ice cubes; horseradish foam; ginger glass jelly; liquid black truffle ravioli.

3. Utilization of Vapour In the Food & Wine Best New Chefs issue, Chef Achatz noted that the most "exotic" item on the Trio menu was rosemary vapor. "We pour boiling water over rosemary sprigs at the table, so it perfumes the air and adds a new level of complexity to our lobster dish." Could you describe how the rosemary vapor is intended to interact with the perfume emanating from the saucing of the lobster dish and the lobster itself?

The indicative menus on the Trio website include the "Bloody Mary" dish, which is described as including vodka mist. Could you discuss the role intended by Chef Achatz for the vodka mist, if you are aware of it?

4. Pushed Foie Gras If you have information on the Trio "pushed" foie gras item, could you share it with members? For example, is duck or goose foie gras utilized, and which type do you prefer? What is the texture of the pushed foie gras, and are the fatty connotations of foie gras accentuated or mitigated by the preparation techniques?

5. Global Influences The Trio website describes the restaurant as offering "progressive French cuisine with a wide range of global influences". Could you discuss what primary "global influences" might be involved, including with respect to the utilization of spices/ingredients from other regions of the world? Do you see some culinary techniques at Trio as being influenced by global approaches as well?

6. Tour de Force Menu Could you discuss how frequently the 20-course de force menu is ordered by diners? Are you aware of Chef Achatz's thinking behind having so many courses, and how that might relate to his experiences at French Laundry?

You might wish to review recent board discussions:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=76&t=15194

(on lengthy tasting menus)

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=36&t=13527

(second half of initial post describing a member's observations on the Tour de Force menu)

Thanks in advance for your replies

Edited January 17, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[chefg]

1. I CAN POST THE MENU AT A LATER DATE.

2. FOCUSING ON FOODS STATE OF BEING:

THROUGH THE SCRUTINY OF FOODSTUFFS IN THEIR NATURAL STATE, AS WELL AS ANY STATE THEY CAN BE MANIPULATED TO, ALLOWS THE CHEF A MORE INTIMATE KNOWLEDGE OF THE INGREDIENT ITSELF AND IT'S RELATIONS WITH OTHER FOODSTUFFS IN THE COMPOSITION OF A DISH. ICE TASTES DIFFERENTLY THAN WATER. ICE FEELS DIFFERENTLY THAN WATER. STEAM CARRIES ARROMA BETTER THAN ICE AND WATER. STEAM CARRIES NO PALATEABLE TASTE, ONLY OLFACTORY FLAVOR.

SURFACE AREA EXPOSURE TO FLAVANOIDS IS INCREASED IN LIQUID STATE DUE TO COVERAGE, BUT DISSAPATES FASTER DUE TO DILUTION, AND CONSUMPTION. WHAT TASTES MORE LIKE CARROT? CARROT JUICE OR A CARROT?

MANIPULATION OF STATES ALTERS THE MINDS PERCEPTION OF FLAVOR MEMORY.YOUR MIND PROCESSES TEXTURES AND ARROMAS WITH FLAVORS TO CREATE A FOOD MEMORY. IF ONE CHOSES A FLAVOR AND PRESENTS IT IN A DIFFERENT TEXTURE IT IS A NEW EXPERIENCE FOR YOUR MIND. A GREATER DEGREE OF FOCUS IS APPLIED TO THE TASK OF CONSUMING.FLAVORS ARE HEIGHTENED, MEMORIES ARE ETCHED, SMILES ARE PRODUCED.

I ONLY HAVE LITTLE TIME........

[mikeczyz]

Neat.

[Jinmyo]

Yes, that's very interesting. And concise. Thank you, chefg.

[guru]

How long do diners take to get through the Tour de force menu? and how much time do you allow between courses.

[=Mark]

Are the menus printed in ALL CAPS?

[cabrales]

chefg -- Thanks for your response I do not mean to overwhelm you with questions, but below are further inquiries on the cuisine at Trio:

7. Molecular Gastronomy Do you have a view on the value of the "molecular gastronomy" school of thinking, including how it may interact with the solid/liquid/vapour/other state of food products?

Below is a thread on the subject:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ular+gastronomy

The subject was also discussed in the Q&A Session with Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck, Bray. (Posts are under a forum called "The Fridge").

8. Follow-Up on Food States Question Could you discuss whether you see the element of surprise to a diner from receiving a food product in an unanticipated state to be itself a positive effect? How do you see surprise as interacting with taste memory, given that familiar flavors can also evoke taste memory?

Have you considered playing with temperatures that are unnatural for a given food state? In other words, a food state, while it generally has a related temperature when ice or vapour is involved, could surprise if that temperature were tampered with, for example.

9. Produce Sourcing Could you discuss Chef Achatz's views, if you are aware of them, on the utilization of local produce? Please mention what types of produce would be considered local for purposes of your response.

How does the sourcing question relate to Trio's "global influences"?

I appreciate your time to respond is limited. Please note that there is no particular timeframe for responding.

Edited January 18, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[chefg]

3.

THE INTENTION OF THE ROSEMARY VAPOR IS TO FLAVOR THE LOBSTER DISH. AS MOST KNOW, OLFACTORY SENSE PLAYS A HUGE PART OF TASTE. ROSEMARY WHEN INFUSED TENDS TO BE BITTER DUE TO THE NATURAL RESIN PRESENT IN THE PLANT. HOWEVER, THE FLAVOR OF ROSEMARY WITH LOBSTER AND ROSEMARY WITH MUSHROOMS IS APPEALING. ROSEMARY IS NOT PALATEABLE IN A CHOPPED STATE. TO INTRODUCE ROSEMARY FLAVOR IN A PALATABLE, TEXTURALLY APPEALING WAY..VAPOR.

3.b

THE VODKA MIST ADDS TWO ELEMENTS TO THE "BLOODY MARY"

1. A SLIGHT ALCOHOLIC "BURN" TO THE DISH WHEN IT CONSUMED, WHICH MAKES IT FAITHFUL TO THE BEVERAGE.

2. COMPLETION FROM CONCEPT TO EXECUTION.

4. QUITE SIMPLY "PUSHED FOIE GRAS" IS A KITCHEN TERM APPLIED TO THE PASSING OF CURED FOIE GRAS THROOUGH A FINE MESH SCREEN OR TAMMIS. CHEF DE PARTIES PHYSICALLY "PUSH" THE COLD LIVER THROUGH THE SCREEN. DUCK LIVER IS USED FROM THE LA BELLE FARM IN THE HUDSON VALLEY OF NEW YORK BECAUSE OF ITS CONSISTANT HIGH QUALITY. THE LIVER IS SHREDDED INTO STRANDS RESEMBLING SHREDDED WHEAT BREAKFAST CEREAL. THESE THIN STANDS OF FOIE MELT INSTANTING WHEN THEY COME IN CONTACT WITH ANYTHING ABOVE 92 F. WHAT THIS MEANS TEXTURALLY IS A SUDDEN AND SMOOTH MELT IN THE MOUTH, WITHOUT RESIDUAL MATTER.

[chefg]

THE TOUR DE FORCE MENU AVERAGES 4 HOURS. TIME BETWEEN COURSES SHOULD ONLY BE 5 MINUTES.

Edited January 19, 2003 by chefg (log)

[chefg]

GOOD NIGHT.

Edited January 19, 2003 by chefg (log)

[mikeczyz]

Good night to chefg as well....

[Fat Guy]

Welcome, Chef G, and thanks for volunteering for this spontaneous Q&A. I'm sure you'll find no lack of Qs here!

[cabrales]

Further inquiries for chefg:

10. Preferred Dish What is the dish on the Trio menu that you believe is the most delicious? Is that the same dish of which you are most proud, from a culinary technique perspective?

11. Other Restaurants If you are comfortable discussing it, do you dine out at other Chicago-area restaurants, in your free time? How would you contrast the approach of Chef Achatz to, say, the culinary principles prevailing at Tru?

11b. What are the restaurants in Europe that appeal to you? Do you consider dining in Europe significant to the cuisine of which you are a part? What are your thoughts on the respective cuisine of the Group of Eight in France, if you are comfortable sharing your insights (Veyrat, Gagnaire, Bras, M Troisgros, Passard, Roellinger, Lorain, Chibois)?

12. Desserts Could you discuss how Chef Achatz coordinates his dishes with those of his pastry chef? Is the integrating approach explicitly discussed, or more informally coordinated?

Edited January 19, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[chefg]

I ENJOY OUR DIALOG.

5.

GLOBAL INFLUENCES REFER TO THE WORLD. ALL CUISINES ARE EXPLORED AND TAKEN SERIOUSLY AT TRIO. IT MAKES US STRONGER AS COOKS AND AS A RESTAURANT. WHY MOLD OURSELVES TO THE FRENCH DIAGRAM, TO BECOME ONE HOMOGANIOUS CUISINE. WE TAKE CUES FROM SOUTH AMERICA, ASIA, EASTERN EUROPE, ALL PARTS OF THE US, AFRICA, THE TROPICS...EVERYWHERE. THE TECHNIQUES OF THE AREAS ARE EXPLORED AND EXECUTED. INTEGREDITY IS IMPORTANT AT TRIO, AND IT IS PAINSTAKINGLY FOLLOWED THROUGH IN THE FOOD. TRIO WANTS TO PRODUCE AN EXPERIENCE THAT TAKES DINERS TO EVERY GASTRONOMICLY TANGIBLE PLACE KNOWN. THE CEILING IS NONEXISTANT IN THIS KITCHEN, THE BLINDERS ARE REMOVED, BUT THE FOCUS IS INTENSE. THE ULTIMATE STARS GUIDE US.

6.

TOUR DE FORCE MENU 1.19. 03

"CARAMEL POPCORN"

OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk

PUREE OF CELERIAC SOUP

SHAVED BOTTARGA curled bread, arugala, red wine vinegar

WATERMELON-SMOKY PAPRIKA ICE

OYSTERS AND BEER

LIGHTLY GRILLED FLORIDA COBIA flavors of the sea

FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit

BLACK TRUFFLE EXPLOSION

MAINE DIVER SCALLOP with ORANGE RIND VAPOR

STEAMED WILD STEELHEAD black truffles, rutebega- mustard juice

"PIZZA"

POACHED LOIN OF VENISON four flavors grated

PIG TAIL AND CRISPY CHEEK red wine braised cabbage, quince

"DRY SHOT"

BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors

POINT REYES BLUE CHEESE white chocolate, mint, dried banana pudding

GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise

PUSHED FOIE GRAS bosc pears, Sauternes, salt roasted pear sorbet

ROASTED BUTTERCUP SQUASH FLAN bacon, curried pineapple

TEA SMOKED CHOCOLATE crystallized nori, plum sorbet, pickled plums

BLACK TRUFFLE AND BANANA MILKSHAKE

COMMENTARY ON THE TDF TO FOLLOW.....

GOOD NIGHT.

Edited January 20, 2003 by chefg (log)

[cabrales]

WE TAKE CUES FROM SOUTH AMERICA,  ASIA, EASTERN EUROPE, ALL PARTS OF THE US, *AFRICA,* THE TROPICS...EVERYWHERE. THE TECHNIQUES OF THE AREAS ARE EXPLORED AND EXECUTED. INTEGREDITY IS IMPORTANT AT TRIO, AND IT IS PAINSTAKINGLY FOLLOWED THROUGH IN THE FOOD.

chefg --

5b. Before the techniques of a given area is experimented with, presumably the techniques, principal products and principal dishes have to be identified and understood. Is there a structured process for the Trio kitchen team to research the cuisine of, say, a country in Africa or The Tropics?

Do you draw primarily on English language cookbooks, for example? How can one can assured of authenticity by reviewing cookbooks and other sources, when one has not sampled the cuisine extensively? To what extent are you satisfied with the sources of information relied on?

5c. Could you discuss how Chef Achatz's team has drawn inspiration from the cuisine of Africa? Are cuisines reviewed country by country within Africa?

5d. Same question as 5c, with respect to Asia, focusing perhaps on Chinese cuisine.

13. Role of Humor The composition and naming of certain Trio dishes may suggest elements of humor (e.g., the Caramel Popcorn, Pizza and Bloody Mary dishes). When you have a chance, could you discuss how you see the role of humor in dishes at the restaurant?

Below is a thread on the role of humor as perceived by members:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...t=7583&hl=humor

Edited January 20, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[RyneSchraw]

I ate dinner at Trio tonight (actually last night by now) and was going to write about it when I got home, but I ended up going to a friend's and just got home now. I'm kinda tired, so I will try to keep this short and post more details sometime tomorrow. The meal was excellent; perfectly composed from start to finish, dishes were unique and all tasted wonderful and there was a very balanced progression of tastes throughout the meal. Never did I feel that I had had too much of a flavor, nor did I ever really wish the portion was bigger. I'm really starting to appreciate at Trio how well the transitions of flavors from savory to sweet are handled, without letting any course over-shadow the one preceding or following it. Because of this, a real star emerges in the pastry kitchen, led by pastry chef Paula Haney. Her desserts are intense, to say the least. They are extremely memorable, which says a lot after eating over ten other courses which are also extremely memorable. They are refreshing (very important after the heaviness of the preceding meat courses) and provide a needed change right around the time one starts to doubt one's ability of making it through the last stage of the meal (esp. with regards to the Tour de Force menu). And they are also very fun; the Black Truffle-Banana Milkshake and the test-tube/Erlenmeyer flask that accompany the Ginseng Fizz - both very cool. However, they all fit in perfectly and remain true to Chef's style and his vision, so the experience becomes seamless. List of courses I had:

Amuse-bouche - "CARAMEL POPCORN"

OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk (caviar was Iranian I believe)

FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit

PURÉE OF CELERIAC SOUP black truffles, pears, celery branch

MAINE DIVER SCALLOP butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor

STEAMED NORTH ATLANTIC HALIBUT black truffles, rutebega-mustard juice

"PIZZA"

POACHED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB sweet potato, four flavors grated (those being: black truffle, chocolate, hazelnut, brioche flavored with jamaican peppercorn)

BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors

ARTISAN and FERMIER CHEESES seasonal fruits, candied nuts

Intermezzo - YOGURT WATER GRANITA carmelized onion sorbet/or custard (don't quite remember which it was)

PARFAIT tangerine, summerchoke(?), top layer of foam I do not remember - this was one of the best desserts I've ever had (besides the Pushed Foie Gras dessert with Bosc pears they do),

and I'll try to find out what the top two layers were...truly it was ethereal

TRIO TARTE apple, porter beer, blue cheese sauce - again, I'll try to find out what exactly was in this dessert (I didn't take home the menu for the 4-course tasting which it was printed on)...it

was very very good, I really like apple and it reminded me of an apple bavarian dessert with maple foam and swiss chard granita they were doing last month...both very memorable, but

different

BLACK TRUFFLE-ROASTED BANANA MILKSHAKE

GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise

Thanks to chefg for typing most of this out a few hours ago so I could just copy and paste it.

I'll post more of my thoughts and comments on specific courses tomorrow. Good night.

Edited January 20, 2003 by RyneSchraw (log)

[RyneSchraw]

Sorry it's taken so long to post comments, notes, clairifications, etc. on the meal at Trio. I just started a new semester and have been busy with work at school. Probably should have done this earlier, as my memory of certain things was much better a few days ago. Anyway, here are the courses:

"CARAMEL POPCORN" - amuse-bouche; this is warm sweet-corn pudding enclosed in a carmelized sugar shell. it "pops" when you bite down on it...a very fun and sweet way to start the meal.

OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk - Iranian caviar in a martini glass with kola nut ice and frothed milk...caviar was very good quality so I wasn't really concentrating on the taste of the other two elements, but they did provide a nice texture

FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit - probably one of my favorite dishes of the night...chilled fennel and heirloom beets with licorice foam, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit puree and grapefruit cells...a lot of intense flavors, which all worked great together...bitterness of the beets and grapefruit was complimented well by the goat milk sorbet and licorice. I really would like to have this dish again.

PURÉE OF CELERIAC SOUP black truffles, pears, celery branch - soup came in a clear PVC cylinder, hollow on each end, which was lifted when it was served, allowing the soup to pour out into the bowl. very sweet and creamy, but also had a light consistency...not very heavy as I expected it to be. there were some huge slices of shaved black truffle, along with a custard infused with black truffle oil, so this was the dominant taste. the soup itelf doesn't have the strong bitterness of celery, and the pears add the sweetness. very cool dish to watch being served, and the truffle servings were very generous.

MAINE DIVER SCALLOP butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor - replacement to the infamous "maine lobster with rosmary vapor" dish and served the same way (small bowl in larger bowl with hot water poured over the orange peel in larger bowl to release the aroma). I always loved the lobster/rosmary dish, and so did a lot of people because it was on the menu for about a year, i believe. When I heard the menu was going through some huge changes, I was worried Chef had taken this off completely. Glad to see that he didn't, since it brings such a different level to the meal. After eating the said lobster dish several times I don't think I'll ever be able to smell rosemary again without thinking of the dinning room at Trio or lobster. I say 'the dining room at Trio' because anyone who's eaten there knows that even if you are eating off the 4-course Prix Fixe menu w/o this course, you will smell it, when the 4-top next to you is having hot water poured, similtaneously, over four bowls. Anyway, after eating this dish, I probably would say I still enjoyed the lobster better, but this dish is excellent. Really I just like lobster more than scallops, but diver caught scallops are indeed good. The butternut squash gave it a nice sweetness and the prosciutto was dried, and really just provided a texture to contrast the tenderness of the scallop (which by the way was the best scallop I have had...bigger and more tender than the one at Spring a month ago). The orange peel was cool...certainly a flavor that would not have necessarily been great squeezed over the scallop, but as an aroma it worked. I spoke to Chef Achatz after the meal and he said they were still playing around with this dish, so there will probably be some changes in the near future.

STEAMED NORTH ATLANTIC HALIBUT black truffles, rutebega-mustard juice - coolest and most creative fish course i've had. the steamed halibut came wrapped in mustard leaves [looked exactly like sushi wrapped in nori], with a packet of rutebega on top (not positive it was rutebega in the ravioli-like packet) and shaved black truffle and gnocchi spread around. Then the dish was sauced at the table with a beaker full of rutebega-mustard juice!! This was a very fun dish and a cool take on sushi. Fish was cooked perfectly...tender and flakey. Mustard sauce might have covered up the taste of the black truffle a bit too much, but there wasn't a whole lot of truffle on it and it wasn't supposed to be a dominant flavor. Also I really liked that it was sauced at the table and the beaker was cool - it gave off a 'mad scientist,' alchemy feel.

"PIZZA" - Fun course. A stamp-sized square of vegetable paper dusted with the flavors of pizza. Dissolves in your mouth, and tastes like...pizza. The complete anti-thesis of those Listerine 'Cool Strips.'

POACHED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB sweet potato, four flavors grated (those being: black truffle, chocolate, hazelnut, brioche flavored with jamaican peppercorn) - Perfectly cooked lamb. I believe Trio and The French Laundry are the only two places to serve Elysian Fields Farm lamb. Truly it is excellent. Poached en-suvignon (check that spelling...it's supposed to be French for "in a bag"). They poach the lamb in a vacuum-sealed bag at 120 degrees F (I think, but again you might want to check that) for a long time. Lamb ends up very tender and looks almost rare, all the way through! Sweet potato and chocolate cookie go great with the lamb and the sauce is a reduction of the 4 flavors. Same 4 flavors are all grated seperately in brussel sprout leaves...allowing you to test and see what each flavor brings to the lamb, but the chocolate and black truffles were the standouts...(big surprise about the black truffle, right!?)

BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors - They did a different dish about a year ago with the same root beer flavors: vanilla-scented burdock root, sassafras root, and fennel (I think) but from what I hear it was a completely different preperation. The dish came in what looked like a rocks glass blown up to twice or three times it's normal size. The braised prime rib was served pretty simple with prunes and two sticks of salsify, looking like frites on the side and with the root beer flavors it provided a cool deconstruction of a hamburger, fries and a glass of rootbeer.

ARTISAN and FERMIER CHEESES seasonal fruits, candied nuts - I didn't write the cheese names down and there is no way i'll ever remember them...there were four and I do highly recommend ordering this extra course for $14. The fromagier is extremely knowlegable and they have a great selection of cheeses.

Intermezzo - YOGURT WATER GRANITA carmelized onion sorbet/or custard (don't quite remember which it was) - Carmelized onion was sweet and savory, while the yogurt water granita was more of a refreshing texture than anything else. Not sure onion is the greatest thing for clearing the palate though, but it was an interesting dish.

PARFAIT tangerine, summerchoke(?), top layer of foam I do not remember - I have't found out what exactly was in the parfait (it was offered as an extra course compliments of the pastry chef and was so good I didn't really care about clarification at the time). Honestly one of the best desserts I've ever eaten...I do know that the bottom layer was tangerine, the middle was either summerchoke or artichoke, and the top layer was a M_____ foam, which I know really doesn't help. Hopefully this will go on the menu and then we will know!

TRIO TARTE apple, porter beer, blue cheese sauce - Another excellent dessert I really am not sure about...it consisted of apple with a porter beer foam, and then a blue cheese sauce that you poured on the side of the plate. There was a sorbet on top, but I forget what it was...maybe graham cracker sorbet...not sure.

BLACK TRUFFLE-ROASTED BANANA MILKSHAKE - Looks exactly like an Oreo-milk shake, but it's really black truffles - back again at the end of the night for an encore! I also had the white truffle-roasted banana milkshake at Trio last November, and both work great. Comes in a flute and they put sea-salt around the rim to really give the flavors a kick. Very very good milkshake...what more can I say...

GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise - This is awesome, if only for the way they bring out a huge 500-1000mL beaker full of crushed ice with a test tube submerged in the center, and then the straw in an Erlenmeyer flask. It's very strong, with the blood orange and grains of paradise, which is a citrus like fruit from the Middle East (Iraq I think). A cool and refershing way to end the meal. It's really funny to see people throughout the night with what looks like an elaborate science experiment sitting on their table, sipping from a test tube.

Definitely this was a meal that raises the bar for Trio and Chef Achatz. Having seen the menu change completely a few times over, it's clear how he is defining his own style and direction. In most reviews and articles about Trio, it is noted how he had been sous-chef at The French Laundry for several years and had a stage at el Bulli and that he has been influenced by both Thomas Keller and Ferran Adrià. One meal at Trio, however, and you see how much broader his influences really are. At Trio they explore everthing - high and low cuisine, old and new, the world over - and really it makes the whole experience something so different than the 'norms' of fine dining. Another aspect worth mentioning is the freshness and quality of ingredients and purveyors. Lots of private farms (the butter comes from a lady in Vermont who only owns 8 cows) and really just a lot of people who care about what they do as much as the chef and staff at Trio. Having never eaten at The French Laundry, but obsessively studied the cookbook, this seems to me one of the most apparent concepts Grant has brought with him from there to Trio - the strong bonds connecting purveyor to restaurant to customer.

Edited January 24, 2003 by RyneSchraw (log)

[Jinmyo]

Sorry it's taken so long to post comments, notes, clairifications, etc. on the meal at Trio.  I just started a new semester and have been busy with work at school.

Egad, at last.

No, I'm kidding. Thanks for posting and I hope that school goes well.

The root beer short rib sounds...interesting. Can't quite imagine it as I haven't had root beer in decades and never cared for it.

[Steve Plotnicki]

ChefG - I ate at Trio this past November. You can find the review on The Heartland board under the title of Trotter's & Trio etc. My question for you is, why 21 courses? I found the number of courses a little oppressive. Can't the same statement, possibly a more focused one, be made in say, 14 courses, just to pick a number mind you.

[RyneSchraw]

Here is the correct description of the parfait (and trust me this dish deserves the correction):

Layer of tangerine curd on the bottom, fresh tangerine supremes above that, vanilla sunchoke custard and mate foam on top. It's now being served on the 8-course tasting menu!

[chefg]

STEVE:

PICK YOUR PONY. TRIO OFFERS 3 TASTING MENUS NIGHTLY. A 4 COURSE WHICH TURNS INTO A 7 COURSE AFTER THE AMUSE, CANAPE, AND MIGNARDISE. A 8 COURSE WHICH IS REALLY AM 11 AFTER THE FOREMENTIONED AND THE (CURRENTLY) 22 COURSE TOUR DE FORCE. THEY ARE DESIGNED TO PROVIDE DINNING EXPERIENCES FOR PEOPLE WILLING TO COMMIT TO DIFFERENT LEVELS OF TIME AND EXPOSURE.

[chefg]

6. PART2

THE FRENCH LAUNDRY OFFERS 2 MENU OPTIONS. A FIVE COURSE WITH CHOICES IN EACH CATEGORY AND A 9 COURSE TASTING. A MENU OF GREATER LENGTH IS NOT OFFERED, BUT IS CONSUMED BY PEOPLE NIGHTLY IF THEY BECOME "VIP ED". THIS INCLUDES PEOPLE DINNING BY THEMSELVES, PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY, JOURNALIST, CELEBRITIES, FRIENDS OF THE RESTAURANT. HAVING BOTH COOKED AND CONSUMED MEALS OF GREAT LENGTH, AND ENJOYING THEM, THE IDEA WAS TO MAKE THAT EXPERIENCE AVAILABLE TO EVERY GUEST AT TRIO.

THE TDF IS NOT FOR EVERYONE, IT TAKES AT LEAST 4 HOURS, IT ENDS UP BEING ALOT OF FOOD. TOO MUCH? I DON'T THINK SO, MOST FINISH IT WITHOUT ISSUE. AGAIN WE SAY 22 COURSES, SOME OF THOSE ARE LESS THAN 1 BITE. LIKE THE "PIZZA" FOR EXAMPLE, BASICALLY A 1/2" X 1/2" PIECE OF PAPER, OR THE CARAMEL POPCORN, A NICKLE SIZED LOSANGE.

YOU DO NOT COME TO TRIO BECAUSE YOU ARE HUNGRY. RESERVATIONS ARE MADE WEEKS IN ADVANCE. THIS IS AN EXPERIENCE IN DINNING THAT GOES BEYOND FOOD AND HUNGER. IT IS ENTERTAINMENT, IF THE GUEST IS WILLING TO LET IT BE. THE TOUR DE FORCE TELLS A STORY, ITS ABOUT 22 PAGES LONG.