Cheese (2008– )

[tamiam]

Gariotin - you are right. Most of us couldn't have known about high quality cheese alternatives - they weren't around. I can easily remember when I first found out that parmesan wasn't meant to be a green can. Not terribly long ago. Even nowadays, the stores in my blue collar community only carry American pre-packed parmesan. I have to go into the City, even for such a simple item as an Italian Parmesan.

Not too long after shredded parmesan, French Brie made it into our markets - was that the 1970's??? It was all the rage with a certain crowd. Not too long after that we started seeing commodity brie, but being unfamiliar with labelling, we didn't know why it wasn't as good as we remembered.

The commodity cheese, like the stuff that comes from that factory is not going to blow anyone's mind with its complexity and finish, but it is relatively inexpensive, and it tastes pretty good. Definitely not awful. All most Americans have ever tasted.

[MikeTMD]

I got inspired by both Thomas Keller and ulterior epicure, so here is my cheese course:

Langres Cheese, Baby Mache with Yuzu Dressing, Poached Rhubarb, Baked Pink Lady Apple Compote, Cloudberry Gastrique, Blood Orange Reduction

Rarely I enjoy my own cooking - this one is rare exception.

Edited April 7, 2008 by MikeTMD (log)

[gariotin]

Beautiful dish, Mike!

I can just imagine the creamy, salty, sour notes of the cheese with the more acidic fruity elements - yum!

What did your other guests think?

[MikeTMD]

Beautiful dish, Mike!

I can just imagine the creamy, salty, sour notes of the cheese with the more acidic fruity elements - yum!

What did your other guests think?

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Thank you for your kind words, Gariotin,

My guest absolutely loved this dish - it was a link between the savory dishes and the dessert.

Langres was more "umami" than salty, and pleasantly pungent - got to love that washed rind! Baby Mache added a hint of bitterness, whereas yuzu vinaigrette created a great citrus aroma, as well as provided a bit of salty undertone ( yuzy juice is only sold slightly salted in my corners). Rhubarb was poached with Ceylon Cinnamon ( yet another dimension of slighty citrus-like flavor), Sechuan Peppercorns and Star Anise ( both belong to the same family, BTW) - I like both the taste and slightly palate-numbing effect of the latter two. Baked Pink Lady Apple Compote was perfect - I baked both Gala and Pink Lady, and opted for the more complex sour-sweet taste of the Pink Lady ( it's really sour-sweet, not sweet and sour). Cloudberry Gastrique tied the whole dish together - surprisingly, it became integral and the most important component of this dish. Gastrique was made very simply with Cloudberry Preserves, Cloudberry Vinegar and a touch of brown sugar.

Original version of this dish called for triple-cream cheese, mache, celery, apple compote and apple cider gastrique.

Let me know if you need sources for the ingredients used.

[suzilightning]

cheese the way john likes it over the weekend.

didn't open the Roaring 40s since we had other blue to finish but had the Tintagel and the Welsh. creamy and prefered the Welsh with the garlic to the Tintagel with the herbs. unfortunately they were semi soft cheeses and his alimentary system was a bit bothered the next day. i think they may get integrated into a potato gratin or brought to work for snack time.

we served with this

[cathrynapple]

Morbier du Haut Libradoisa. I am completely inexperienced with cheeses, mostly due to the lack of selection in our town. I found this one and hadn't seen it before, so I bought a chunk.

The rind is REALLY smelly. I feel absurdly stupid saying this, but it almost smelled like rotten meat and I was not feeling confident when tasting it. I also forgot to refrigerate it overnight. (it was sealed in thick plastic )

I don't know if this would affect the cheese? I liked it quite a bit, but it was just NOT a smell I was expecting. Not in any way a cheesey smell. It was more like a rotting meat smell.

Any thoughts?

[Dave Hatfield]

Morbier shouldn't smell all that bad. Think it must have been the plastic wrap and no cool place.

A find for me today. English Cheddar! I know this doesn't sound much, but its the first time in 6 years that I've found cheddar in a normal fromagerie.

It not a bad cheddar either. Reasonably sharp if a bit crumbly. Hope they keep stocking it. I'm telling all of my English friends to go buy some so as to encourage the stocking.

[Kouign Aman]

Recent new cheeses for us (nothing wildly exotic):

Castel Bleu - I ate it all, with a fork.

Port Salut - this one could be a pretty frequent visitor to our house. I like the sharp richness, and it looks like it might be a good melting cheese. If so, it might be tagged for a trial mac'n cheese starring role. Either way, we like it for nibbles.

[cathrynapple]

Port Salut is my official favorite cheese. It's mostly a textual thing for me. A new tiny cheese shop has opened in my town! I went and they mostly sell cheese made at Fair Oaks Farms. THese were things like cheddar, swiss, havarti, cheese curds, and some herbed cheeses and wine-flavored cheeses.

Luckily, the adorable old man who owns the place keeps some more interesing stuff in a separate cooler. He had some Penazul, which is a Spanish blue wrapped in grape leaves. Absolutely lovely, and so PRETTY.

[MarketStEl]

Triscuits and Ritz. Between the two, there's probably not a cheese they can't handle. (But there are a few that should go on water biscuits.)

Tonight I topped my Triscuits with a new find: a Spanish-style cheese from Wisconsin. I hadn't seen Gran Queso in DiBruno's before, and there appears to be some confusion among the staff there over who makes it: the shelf label at the 9th Street store said it was from Hickory Farms, but the label on the wheel said it was made by Roth Kase USA, which appears to be quickly gaining a rep for producing very good European-style cheeses in a place known for cheese, but not cheeses like these. It tastes a little like Manchego, only not quite as firm -- but firm enough. Tangy start, sweet finish. Great for snacking.

tamiam: Would the cheesemaker be a name we'd recognize on the East Coast? Is it in Washington State, or Oregon? I think that most of the store brand commodity Cheddars sold around here come from either Wisconsin or New York State -- if the latter, they are so labeled; the New York State Cheddars are generally a notch better than the generic ones.

[LizD518]

For any of you familiar with TWOP (Television Without Pity), the founder, Sars, and one of the formaer recappers, Keckler (used to recap Top Chef) are conducting a Cheese Bracket in honor of March Madness...

Tomato Nation NCheeseAA Homepage

Fun for cheese lovers!

[Dave Hatfield]

For any of you familiar with TWOP (Television Without Pity), the founder, Sars, and one of the formaer recappers, Keckler (used to recap Top Chef) are conducting a Cheese Bracket in honor of March Madness...

Tomato Nation NCheeseAA Homepage

Fun for cheese lovers!

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I hate to be churlish, but some of the pairings are absolutely silly.

Chalk & cheese?

[eipi10]

My favorite cheese is Epoisses, which I find incredibly delicious. I'd go so far as to say it is the "king of cheeses," as Brillat Savarin proclaimed. But I've come to realize, generally, that as amazingly complex and diverse is cheese is, it's not one of my favorite foods. For example, I never really enjoy the beautiful French chevres, though I respect them greatly. What I really enjoy most are simple unaged Italian cheeses: buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, and burrata.

Edited April 21, 2008 by eipi10 (log)

[The Old Foodie]

I could not believe that there was no response (well, one response - thankyou eipe10!) to my "new" topic on Potato Cheese.

I now realise that I should have posted it here.

I will be profoundly disappointed, fellow eGullet cheese-eaters, if I dont hear something from you on this topic!

I will repeat my post here:

I came across a reference to ‘potato cheese’ recently and was most intrigued. I am hoping some of you can tell me more. Most references say it comes from Germany or the Savoy region: most of these references are nineteenth century. What I want to know is: is this cheese still made in the world? I am even keener to know if anyone has made it themselves.

This recipe is from Cassells' Vegetarian Cookery (1891)

Potato Cheese.

Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany; they can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not too rich and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel them and beat them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with one pound of milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour. Knead all these ingredients well together, cover up and allow them to stand three or four days in winter, two to three in summer. At the end of that time knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses to drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a board and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate warmth; should the heat be too great, as we have said, they will burst.

When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard, place them in barrels with green chickweed between each cheese; let them stand for about three weeks, when they will be fit for use.

This simpler version is from The American Frugal Housewife (1838) by Lydia Maria Child. It sounds like not so much a cheese as a fermented potato pancake!

Potato cheese is much sought after in various parts of Europe. I do not know whether it is worth seeking after, or not. The following is the receipt for making : Select good white potatoes, boil them, and, when cold, peel and reduce them to a pulp with a rasp or mortar ; to five pounds of this pulp. which must be very uniform and homogeneous, add a pint of sour milk and the requisite portion of salt; knead the whole well, cover it, and let it remain three or four days, according to the season ; then knead it afresh, and place the cheeses in small baskets, when they will part with their superfluous moisture ; dry them in the shade, and place them in layers in large pots or kegs, where they may remain a fortnight. The older they are, the finer they become.

Edited April 23, 2008 by The Old Foodie (log)

[gariotin]

Wow, Janet, I have to say that I've never heard of this, but wonder if it is related to soy cheeses that are made now for vegans?

Soy beans are also starchy but have more protein than potatoes - and soy cheese does not use milk, so guess that is not a good example.

I am intrigued, so if you do find out more, pls let us know.

[Abra]

There's a delicious Dutch cheese called Dorothea that's supposedly made with potato peels, but I'm not sure if that's what you're looking for.

[Dave Hatfield]

Struck out on potato cheese in Germany. Tried kartoffel kase and came up with all kinds of potato dishes with cheese, but no potato cheese.

Had more luck with Abra's Dorothea. Here's a write up:

Potato Chip Cheese by Dorothea $11.99 lb. at Central Market. This cheese was created in 1993 by the Van Dijk family. Dorothea cheese is named after the Van Dijk's daughter. The famous chef Cas Spijkars wanted to win the annual Dutch award for Most Unusual Food, so he invented a flavored goat cheese and had this company make it. They used potato skins as the secret ingredient since the potato is an important food in Dutch culinary tradition. Cas didn't like the combo at first, so they tweaked the recipe by adding basil oil, coriander oil, and chopped onion. They won the award. Only 4,000 of this cheese is made per year. The humidity and temperature are adjusted every few days to assure proper maturation. It is made from pasteurized milk. It is aged for more than 60 days to develop a full, nutty flavor and a body that is firm, but not hard enough to grate. I liked this cheese. It is light cream-colored, semi-hard, and the rind is brown wax like a smoked Gouda. On the label, it says that it contains potato chips, garlic, coriander, basil, and essential oils. When I think about it, I do taste the potato, and I also taste the onions mentioned in another description. It's really tangy and salty. I get a mustard flavor and feel, like how mustard tastes salty, but really isn't. One of my friends said it tasted like salad dressing. Most people liked it. I like it, but I don't know quite what to make of it. It is a little fruity and nutty.

This seems a modern version compared to your lovely old recipes.

Don't think this really answers your question, but maybe it gets us a bit closer.

[Abra]

I haven't had it since they added all that other stuff, but I thought it was great as it was. Too bad they messed with it.

[Dave Hatfield]

I haven't had it since they added all that other stuff, but I thought it was great as it was.  Too bad they messed with it.

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Just to clarify, the write up was from somebody else not me. I was merely quoting.

I've never had this cheese so I'm not qualified to judge it.

Wonder when they added all the 'other stuff"?

[The Old Foodie]

A few more gleanings on potato-cheese - all from the mid-nineteenth century.

From a magazine article of 1830:

Potato Cheese.—In many parts of Saxony, cheese is made in the following manner from potatoes :—Take the best potatoes and boil them ; when cold, beat them in a mortar into a pulp, adding a pint of sour milk to five pounds of potatoes. Keep the mass covered for three or four days, aud then beat it again. Make it into small cheeses, which are to he placed in baskets, to let the superfluous moisture escape. Dry hem in the shade, and then pile them on each other for fifteen days ; after which they may he put away in any manner in a dry place. They have a very pleasant flavour, and will keep good for years, improving with age.

From an Agricultural journal (1846):

“In Savoy, an excellent cheese is made by mixing one of the pulp of potatoes with three of ewe milk curd, and in Westphalia a potato-cheese is made with skimmed milk. This Wesphalian cheese, while in the pasty state, is allowed to undergo a certain extent of fermentation before it is finally worked up with butter and salt, and made int shapes and dried. The extent to which this fermentation is permitted to go determines the flavour of the cheese.

From: Sketches of Germany and the Germans (an extract in a journal of 1859):

“Potatoes in Prussia: I have frequently seen them served in six different forms : the bread was made from them, the soup thickened with them, there were fried potatoes, potato salad, and potato dumplings ; to which may be added potato cheese, which, by the by, is one of its best preparations, and will keep many years, for which we are indebted to Prussian ingenuity.”

Is there anything like this in the areas of the USA with a big German heritage??

[The Old Foodie]

Potato Cheese was certainly available in the USA in the 1950's.

From: The Complete Book of Cheese ; Brown, Robert Carlton; 1959 (via Gutenberg)

Potato Germany and U.S.A.

Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it appears to be the same."

From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.

Covered with beer during ripening - now that sounds like a good idea!

Is there not a little artisanal cheese producer still making this?

[gariotin]

If there were a small cheesemaker doing this, they would probably be known by the American Cheese Society. Are you researching this for your website, or an essay - I can ask the question in the next newsletter, but it is published quarterly and won't be out until July.

L

[The Old Foodie]

If there were a small cheesemaker doing this, they would probably be known by the American Cheese Society.  Are you researching this for your website, or an essay - I can ask the question in the next newsletter, but it is published quarterly and won't be out until July.

L

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Hello gariotin.

No particular research enquiry - I am just intrigued by the idea. Potato and cheese in one item - close to ambrosia to me.

Please do ask your contacts and colleagues.

J

[Dave Hatfield]

No posts for a long time. Since late April in fact. Its so bad that I had a PM today asking if the cheese thread was still alive.

I guess it is, or at least I'll try to put a bit of life in it.

We had our friend Jacques & his son Theo coming for lunch today so I went to Caussade market for cheese & other foods.

Here's Jacques, Theo , the cheese & the wine.

Here's the cheese.

From the Top, clockwise. Cantal Entre Deux, Tome de Vache, Cabecous sec de Vache & Bleu de Auvergne.

The Tome was particularly good, much stronger than normal. The little dry cabecous are a favorite although normally they are made with goat's or sheep's milk not cow's milk.

Here are the labels from the Tome & Cabecou. Both from the same farm. Its about 20 miles from us. Its notable that Madame sells raw milk on her market still.

Finally, A close up of the wine label. This chardonnay comes from the Minervois. We buy it just up the hill from the father of the wine maker's wife. 3.60 Euros per bottle. Normally, however, we buy it in 5 liter boxes for 11 Euros. Quite a bargain for exactly the same wine. Packaging & bottling is expensive. In either case its a very nice wine.

The rest of our lunch consisted of a salad made with endive, cucumber, onion & radish with a mustard/mayonnaise dressing with cumin & coriander. We then had slow roasted lamb shoulder with sauteed potatoes & fresh peas. Then the cheese. To finish we had some local melon which is just coming into season.

Retired life in France is tough. After lunch the government lady arrived to inspect our fosse septique (septic tank). It was Ok so we're good for another 8 years. Afterwards live tennis & a nap.

C'est la vie!

[suzilightning]

our snack yesterday for our 5pm programs. this is john's plate. fresh fig, homemade foccaccia, Bayley Hazen Blue, Fiscalini Bandaged Cheddar and jamon iberico. the cheddar is rich and grassy but it is the blue that lingers on the palate with whisps of grass and nuts and finally the "blue" of the penicillium. the jamon... they cut us both a slice at the store and i didn't want to eat it because it was so good...if that makes sense.

we had to go to a new eye doctor yesterday and noticed that just up the road from him wasGary's Wine and Marketplace. we have been to the one in Madison but this was the new superstore. OH! MY! GOD!!