"The Family Meal: Home cooking with Ferran Adrià"

[inductioncook]

And it's some of the "tips" that vary by edition -- still curious to know why. Maybe coz will let us know -- or maybe one of the editors or translators will read this and tell us more!

[coz]

I would be happy to. If anyone has specific recipe questions between the two editions please let me know to get me started. thanks

[inductioncook]

I've received a response from the publisher noting the the UK edition is "the central edition, from which translations have been made."

A review in a French publication has excerpts from the French edition:

http://cuisine.elle.fr/Elle-a-Table/Les-dossiers-de-la-redaction/Dossier-de-la-redac/Repas-de-famille-avec-Ferran-Adria

It includes(apparently as part of the excerpts)a list of Ferran Adria’s “preferred” restaurants in Barcelona and Paris, which was quite interesting to me since three of his four Paris restaurants are places I am devoted to. This list is not part of the US edition, and I don’t know about the UK one. There might be other things that are special to the French edition.

[Jaymes]

Is anyone familiar with the original? Is it in Spanish or Catalan? We speak Spanish pretty well in our house, but I'm not that familiar with Catalan, and don't know if it's easy to read/understand for a Spanish speaker.

I'm thinking about buying the book in its original form, but if the average Spanish-speaker couldn't really understand it, it would probably be a waste.

Anyone know?

[inductioncook]

There is no Spanish (Castellano) or Catalan edition. The publisher explained to me that the original is the UK edition, and you can look in vain for anything like it on Amazon Spain's web site. Phaidon's own web site lists four editions: UK US, French and Italian.

Edited October 26, 2011 by inductioncook (log)

[coz]

That's bizarre I would think the UK to US translation would be easy! I'm due to get it next week to compare.

[inductioncook]

I'll be looking too; I've ordered the UK edition. Years ago I translated a British book into American but did not try to change the units, just things like "aubergine" to "eggplant" or "Magimix" to "Cuisinart" where I thought terms or brands were unfamiliar.

Jaymes, you might like Adria's older book on home cooking in Spanish, which is where the potato chip tortilla espanola comes from. Amazon Spain says it's currently unavailable but it may be available somewhere. http://www.amazon.es/Cocinar-casa-caprabo-bulli/dp/849331000X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319641585&sr=8-2

Reading and using good books in the original is not hard and if you know a bit of the language it will quickly advance your knowledge. I learned so much about French cooking and language from Michel Guerard's Cuisine Gourmand, and he has a wonderful, beautifully written and illustrated book that came out last year: http://www.amazon.fr/Comment-briller-fourneaux-savoir-faire/dp/2353260756/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1319642231&sr=8-3

Lest this seem a little off topic, let me just add that Adria has said Michel Guerard was his greatest inspiration.

Edited October 26, 2011 by inductioncook (log)

[coz]

Thanks for those suggestions. I wasn't aware of these books. regards

[Keith_W]

I bought this book at the same time as the new Heston book. What a contrast - where Heston has modified his recipes for home use by omitting some modernist ingredients and leaving out specialist equipment, Ferran Adria's book uses shortcuts. Heston's book is doable by any home cook who has the commitment to attempt his multiple step recipes, but you can tell that each recipe has been carefully formulated with a keen eye for detail.

Now for Ferran Adria's book. I was gobsmacked to see that his potato straw recipe was ... open a pack of potato straws! Likewise, his basil and tomato salad recipe was a complete joke. Here it is: peel and slice tomatoes, then add EVOO, salt, vinegar, and basil. Or take his Mandarins and Cointreau recipe - juice mandarins, add Cointreau, drizzle over mandarin segments, add vanilla ice-cream (you guessed it ... the recipe was: open a tub of vanilla ice-cream), and serve. His roast chicken recipe does not tell you what temperature to cook the chicken to, nor does it even tell you to brine the chicken. Heston's recipe is the complete opposite - Heston will have you fussing over your chicken for 24 hours before finishing it with the precision of a scientist.

After reading this book I can't help but think he is taking the piss out of us. What new insights does this book have to offer? None! Avoid, save your money.

[ChrisTaylor]

The books are both pitched at the 'home cooking' market but they have different intents. Heston's book is obviously for people who want to spend 24 hours fussing over a chicken before finishing it with the precision of a scientist. Adria's book isn't for those people. I'm ... not sure who it is for. A lot of the people who know his name probably wouldn't be bothered by recipes that ask for you to, I don't know, rub a potato over a mandolin a few times to produce straws or make some icecream. I've no problem with the use of store-bought alternatives--I mean, when I come home from work and it's the middle of the week, I really don't want to be piss farting around with some preparations. But still, some of those things that really do make your dinner better--brining, say--take damn near no time at all. I can't fathom leaving those out--I mean, those little 'cheffy' touches (without going to the level of Heston's book) are kind of what you'd expect from the one of the world's greatest chef's approaches to home cooking.

Still, the recipes are simpler than 90% of the recipes in a Jamie Oliver book (even in his '30 minute weeknight meals for people who normally just buy McDonald's' moments).

[Keith_W]

Chris, I think that everyone knows how to take their own shortcuts when it is warranted. I don't always go to the trouble of making my own ice-cream, even when a recipe calls for it. Everyone has enough common sense to know when to take a shortcut when they know they are short of time. I just don't expect a cookbook written by the world's greatest chef to do it. At the very least, he could have said "Vanilla ice cream (see p240) or store-bought". That is acceptable.

You actually learn how to cook with Heston's book. He goes through all the steps, explains the reasons, and tells you what happens if you were tempted to take a shortcut. Not so here - the instructions remind me of Airfix instructions. And even I know that many of the things he tells you to do are not "best practice" ... it is what you do when you are pressed for time, and not concerned with ultimate results.

I suspect I am not alone on this forum in wanting the absolute best. I will go to great lengths to source the best produce, and cook the best food. A cookbook that tells me to open a tub of ice cream does not cut it.

[Mallet]

Not every cookbook needs to be a French Laundry or even a Bouchon-type cookbook. I simply do not seek restaurant-level refinement for every single meal, I suspect most people don't either. You're writing off the vast majority of cookbooks in one stroke, which seems a little extreme to me. For day-to-day cooking, if I can get 80% of the result with 20% of the effort, I'm all for it.

[Keith_W]

Mallet, if you think about it ... the vast majority of cookbooks don't offer anything new either. I am fed up of cookbooks that tell you to cook to time instead of temperature, measure ingredients by volume instead of weight, and ESPECIALLY cookbooks that tell you to open a tub of bought ice cream. I don't need a cookbook to tell me to open a tub of ice cream ... do you?

The truth is, close to 95% of the cookbooks in the market aren't worth the paper they are printed on. How is a Nigella roast chicken recipe different to a Jamie Oliver roast chicken recipe? I can tell you how the Heston recipe is different - he follows best practice, educates you about a chicken roast, and tells you to cook to temperature.

[DanM]

I am starting to dig into this book and am happy with the recipes so far. Only one issue has come up... The recipe for Romesco sauce calls for Choricero pepper paste. I do not know where to find it, let alone kosher. Are there any substitutes or ways to make this sauce?

[inductioncook]

Does the Heston book tell you what to do if you DO have the equipment and chemicals he would use in the restaurant? In other words, simplified results, like the roast chicken example you gave, but not simplified technique. In other words, when he suggests a home procedure does he also tell what the original or state-of-the-art procedure would be?

[Keith_W]

Hi inductioncook - no he doesn't. The title of the Heston book is "Heston Blumenthal at Home". I have read it cover to cover, and it does not call for any exotic equipment or ingredients. His ice cream recipe does call for dry ice, and he does suggest using gelatin filtration for making consommes. Both are fairly advanced techniques but not beyond the scope of a home cook.

If you want "state of the art procedure" ... either get The Fat Duck Cookbook, or Modernist Cuisine.

[inductioncook]

Both of which are very good.

[inductioncook]

Note that Phaidon produced a separate US edition using what they must have thought US consumers wanted (sadly). The master edition is the UK one, with a separate ISBN and metric style. From this they produced versions in French, Italian and "American." The elimination of the original measurements for an American edition surprised a lot of us, particularly since they did not do this for their Day at El Bulli. There is another forum about this book with more about the editions.

[ChrisTaylor]

Trying another recipes over the weekend--tonight it's the Catalan-style turkey and tomorrow it'll be the Mexican pork shoulder, about which I've heard good things.

[ChrisTaylor]

The turkey recipe is okay. The drumsticks in the photo looked small--much smaller than the creepily toddler-sized drumsticks avaliable at Australian supermarkets--so I opted for turkey wings. Turns out, slow-cooking gives turkey of non-descript quality a bit of a boost.

Have some pork marinating in the fridge for tomorrow night.

[ChrisTaylor]

The slow-cooked pork is nice enough, too, altho' I admit I modified the recipe somewhat--I felt 400F (200C~) was too hot--given the intent, after all, is to end up with shredded meat you can load into tortillas--so I dropped it to 125C. Four hours became ... 7? 7.5?

[coz]

I made the Garlic+Bread soup last night and the Guacamole. Both were great. I haven't had time to compare the UK and USA editions yet.

[Jaymes]

Mallet, if you think about it ... the vast majority of cookbooks don't offer anything new either. I am fed up of cookbooks that tell you to cook to time instead of temperature, measure ingredients by volume instead of weight, and ESPECIALLY cookbooks that tell you to open a tub of bought ice cream. I don't need a cookbook to tell me to open a tub of ice cream ... do you?

The truth is, close to 95% of the cookbooks in the market aren't worth the paper they are printed on. How is a Nigella roast chicken recipe different to a Jamie Oliver roast chicken recipe? I can tell you how the Heston recipe is different - he follows best practice, educates you about a chicken roast, and tells you to cook to temperature.

I feel pretty sure it's just me but, in my world, what "kind" of cookbook I'm interested in at any given time has more to do with that day's situation than anything else. And I definitely disagree that "95% of the cookbooks in the market aren't worth the paper they are printed on."

As the mother/cook/babysitter/housecleaner/dishwasher/grocery-shopper/chauffeur/tutor/clothing-maker and everything-else-that-needs-doing-er for my large family, I often don't give a perfectly-roasted chicken's fat patootey about the "best practice." I want inspiration. And I grab one of those cookbooks you dismiss as worthless to help me think of some good and tasty ideas to put on the table for the 21+ meals I have to come up with each week.

Sure, it's nice to occasionally have somebody like Heston tell me what is the "best practice."

But mostly, that's a luxury reserved for folks that have the time, money, patience, and accommodating diners that allow it. You appear to be one of those lucky folks. Congratulations. I won't disparage whichever cookbooks inspire you. But I'll be keeping those that inspire me.

[Mjx]

. . . .

I feel pretty sure it's just me but, in my world, what "kind" of cookbook I'm interested in at any given time has more to do with that day's situation than anything else. And I definitely disagree that "95% of the cookbooks in the market aren't worth the paper they are printed on."

As the mother/cook/babysitter/housecleaner/dishwasher/grocery-shopper/chauffeur/tutor/clothing-maker and everything-else-that-needs-doing-er for my large family, I often don't give a perfectly-roasted chicken's fat patootey about the "best practice." I want inspiration. And I grab one of those cookbooks you dismiss as worthless to help me think of some good and tasty ideas to put on the table for the 21+ meals I have to come up with each week.

Sure, it's nice to occasionally have somebody like Heston tell me what is the "best practice."

But mostly, that's a luxury reserved for folks that have the time, money, patience, and accommodating diners that allow it. You appear to be one of those lucky folks. Congratulations. I won't disparage whichever cookbooks inspire you. But I'll be keeping those that inspire me.

But best practice (if it's truly best practice, and not merely esoteric/recherché practice) saves time and money, and makes cooking a pleasure.

If a cookbook is being used for visual inspiration alone, that's fine, but I'd have to agree that as many as 95% of cookbooks seem less than useful, since they merely retread recipes that have been found elsewhere, and have just enough changes to avoid copyright infringement issues: To the editor, these may appear to be insignifiant alterations to an ingredient, measurement, or process, but make the difference between success (or at least 'not bad'), and 'crash and burn'.

Adrià's book is not in the copied/untested category, but I'm guessing that it works best for (and is targeted at) those who are at least somewhat familiar with best practice/the science involved.

[Jaymes]

But best practice (if it's truly best practice, and not merely esoteric/recherché practice) saves time and money, and makes cooking a pleasure.

If a cookbook is being used for visual inspiration alone, that's fine, but I'd have to agree that as many as 95% of cookbooks seem less than useful, since they merely retread recipes that have been found elsewhere, and have just enough changes to avoid copyright infringement issues: To the editor, these may appear to be insignifiant alterations to an ingredient, measurement, or process, but make the difference between success (or at least 'not bad'), and 'crash and burn'.

Adrià's book is not in the copied/untested category, but I'm guessing that it works best for (and is targeted at) those who are at least somewhat familiar with best practice/the science involved.

I don't use my books "for visual inspiration alone." I read through them, and find all sorts of inspiration lurking in their pages - brand new (to me) ideas, thoughts, suggestions, methods, ingredients; even attitudes and ways of looking at life in the kitchen. I find new twists on old ideas as well, often things I've done for decades. And that doesn't even begin to take into account the fact that "best practice" is subjective, an entirely different issue.

I said it was probably just me, but I'm sure I've got at least 1000 cookbooks, and likely more. Some are old friends I've had since I got married back in 1969. Some are even older friends, having belonged to my mother or grandmother. And I've lived, traveled and eaten around the world, literally. As I approach 70, it would be tempting to believe that I've done, seen, heard about, cooked, eaten it all, from whole monkey and iguana roasted on an open fire in a Cuna Indian village in the San Blas Islands when we lived in Panama, to creamed rooster testicles at a wedding dinner when I lived in Hong Kong, to balut (fertilized egg) when we lived in the Philippines, to jellied moose nose when we lived in Alaska.

But still, every single time I sit down with one of my cookbooks, I find something in it of enough value to definitely make it "worth the paper it's printed on," at least to me.

There's nothing wrong with being discriminating. Certainly not everyone wants or needs or could use or find value in 1000 cookbooks. But making blanket, sweeping, condescending statements like "95% of the cookbooks in the market aren't worth the paper they are printed on," seems to me to be pretty-much always unwise, usually saying more about the speaker than the spoken about.

And, by the way, it just so happens that I also own Adria's "Family Meal" (both the US and UK versions) and have cooked from it. I find it to be remarkably simple and unpretentious.

Amusingly enough, one of his desserts is "Almond soup with ice cream."

On page 294 (UK version), he gives quite detailed instructions as to how to prepare the almond soup, but pretty clearly seems happy with the notion of going to your freezer and opening up a tub of previously-purchased ice cream.

Edited November 10, 2011 by Jaymes (log)