Types of Mexican Chorizo

[Chris Hennes]

This morning I started writing the WikiGullet article on Chorizo, so naturally turned to Diana Kennedy's books for information about Mexican chorizo. To my surprise, it's not at all what I expected! I have eaten and made many Mexican chorizos, all of which followed the same basic formula of being flavored primarily by chiles: so when I came across Chorizo Verde I was a little shocked! It all makes me wonder: what other sorts of "Chorizo" exist in Mexican cuisine that I have never heard of? Presumably there are a zillion regional variants?

[gfweb]

I know nothing about Mexican chorizo except that I love eating it. This should be a great thread!

[Darienne]

A novice, but very enthusiastic learner, chimes in. I found a Chorizo recipe in Lourdes Castro. Simply Mexican. Ten Speed Press: Berkeley & Toronto, 2009 (library book). I've made it and we found it delicious, but then the only chorizo I had ever eaten was bought at a local Canadian Costco and what do I know?

It calls for: garlic, salt, red wine vinegar, black pepper, dried oregano, sugar, ancho chile powder, chipotle, adobo sauce, water, lean ground beef and lean ground pork (one pound of each).

I couldn't get guajillos, dry or fresh, where I live.

[kalypso]

This morning I started writing the WikiGullet article on Chorizo, so naturally turned to Diana Kennedy's books for information about Mexican chorizo. To my surprise, it's not at all what I expected! I have eaten and made many Mexican chorizos, all of which followed the same basic formula of being flavored primarily by chiles: so when I came across Chorizo Verde I was a little shocked! It all makes me wonder: what other sorts of "Chorizo" exist in Mexican cuisine that I have never heard of? Presumably there are a zillion regional variants?

Chris, I am by no means an expert on chorizo, but I do really like the stuff. In fact, my eGullet avatar is hangnig chorizo that we made when I took classes with DK a few years ago. I have made her Chorizo de Huetamo and her Chorizo Verde at home and have a whole photo essay on both. About half the photos are really good, the other half are out of focus. Neither recipe is very difficult, but they do require some time and patience, and I discovered that the KA sausage stuffing attachment isn't well suited for chorizo (too chunky and too loose). The chorizo verde is outstanding.

I've had the opportunity while in Mexico to visit two chorizo making operations. One was one of the last commercial vendors (Alianza) in Toluca making chorizo the traditional way and not just banging them out in mass production. This was pretty interesting. Their production room was subterranean and the the room chilled. Their production equipment was actually commerical bakery equipment for bread making that had been imported from Germany. The equipment had been chosen because of it's ability to incorporate all the ingredients efficiently without completely mashing everything up. The texture of the final product was extremely important. There was a master chorizo maker who watched every batch from start to finish but watched the blending phase like a hawk. He knew by sight and feel exactly when it was time to stop mixing. The casings were natural casings and they were stuffed in small batches and moved to the drying room as they were done. Toluca is famous for it's chorizos and as you walk around town you will see ropes of it hanging in various vendor stalls. With the chorizo verde you will see 2 types, one is kind of a muted, drab green and the other a bright and vibrant. Most people are drawn to the bright and vibrant colored chorizo and that's exactly what it is, colored. The drab green chorizo is the one made with fresh produce, the vibrant green is the one made with artificial coloring.

The other was a butcher in Teotitlan del Valle who specialized in salchichas (sausages). He demonstrated his process for making chorizo. Our demonstration actually ended outside where he was making fresh chicarrones. I don't know which was better his chorizo or his chicarrones

I like chorizo, it's one of my favorite taco fillings, but it's so much better made in Mexico than the stuff that passes for chorizo here. One type of chorizo that I've never seen NOB is called "Obispo" (which is bishop in Spanish). I was first introduced to it in Toluca where it's considered a delicacy. Mexican haggis might be a more apt description. It's similar in that it uses a lot of trimmings + additives and is cooked in (IIRC) the pigs stomach. My Mexican friends have told me it's an acquired taste and I suspect they are right. I've tasted (small tastes) it twice and while I didn't find it disgusting ro inedible, I also didn't find it especially appealing either.

[janeer]

Here is a photo of green chorizo (bottom), and another of a standard kind of some sort. I've never made the green, but I've eaten it! I have made chorizo using the recipe from the original DK book, and it is not quite what I like. Maybe it's habit, but I judge all chorizo against El Popular brand. For some reason that is just the right combination of flavors. I've never been able to duplicate it quite, so I just buy it. Although the texture of homemade would be better if I could get the taste right..

[EatNopales]

Quick overview on the genres of Mexican sausage tradition:

Chorizo Fresco (Red)... in Mexico it is always made from firm meats (shoulder, leg etc.,) not offal,

> Chorizo from the Altiplano & Bajio (this style is what is most common in the U.S.) it is vinegary, spicy & very herbal

> Chorizo Norteno.. is the spiciest colored with Chiltepin or Arbol Chiles (usually eaten inside the casing)

> Chorizo from Guerrero, Isthmus of Tehuantepec, & Yucatan is colored with fresh achiote & pickled with Sour Orange juice or tropical fruit vinager... also less herbal

Chorizo Verde... already described above almost exclusive to Toluca the Charcuterie capital of Mexico

Chorizo Seco... less common but still traditional in regions... it is somewhat more similar to Spanish chorizo but with some spice to it.

Longaniza ... this is less expensive Chorizo made from offal, it has a chunkier texture, less intense vinegar, more chiles, it can also be aged in some regions

Chistorra... a basque chorizo made parts of Mexico with heavy basque immigration (mostly around Mexico City)

Obispo... mentioned by Dining Diva...

Moronga... blood sausage

Those are the basic types I have eaten. You might also included Salchicha (Frankfurters) which are now a basic part of Mexican cuisine, and made artisinally through out the country, I don't know that there is anything unique enough about the franks to constitute regionality.

[menuinprogress]

Aside from the chorizo we typically get here in San Diego, the only kind I have much experience with are the bolitas they sell in carnicerias in Oaxaca.

The Oaxacan variety is darker, and the strings of small chorizo balls are very characteristic:

We've had reasonably good success replicating the style at home:

Still not as good as the orignal, though...

[tothiony]

Green chorizo is really good. It's totally different than classic chorizo.