Cooking with "Beyond the Great Wall"

[nakji]

Discussion of the book itself over here.

I bought this book the other day after circling it at my local bookstore for the last six months. At first I assumed it was more a "coffee table" style cookbook meant to be looked at and not cooked from, but discussion in the book topic inspired me to flip through it. I found a few recipes that looked interesting, so I decided to give it a go.

Unfortunately, my husband had a flip through all of the gorgeous pictures, and started making noises again about taking motorcycle trip through Northern Vietnam and Laos, as he's been threatening to do with his friends the last couple of years. If it gets off the ground, I guess I'll have to take a recipe notebook with me this time. There's a basil chicken I had in Luang Prabang that still haunts me, and I kick myself once a month for not barging into the kitchen and watching it get made.

The first recipe I tried was based on Snadra's recommendation of the fresh corn and chili stir-fry. `I got the corn and chilis from the market without looking at the recipe (as I ever do) and missed out completely that it called for pork. So I displayed adaptability and used a bit of Hunan smoked pork I keep around for just such idiocy, thus "Sinicizing" the dish somewhat. Nevertheless, it was excellent. Only later did I read the accompanying notes and realize it was a Hmong dish. In fact, so many of the pictures of Yunnan province remind me of Northern Vietnam (for obvious reasons) that it's making me want to get on a plane.

The other dish I made was the Dai Grilled chicken - a real hit. My husband loves Sichuan peppercorns, but I usually hate them. This recipe called for grinding them up, however, which I found a lot less intrusive than I normally do. Actually, the smell of the garlic paste that went on the chicken before grilling was heaven. I only had skinless chicken thighs - next time I'll use ones with skin to keep it more moist.

My only complaint about the book so far is the size of it. Although it's about cooking in Asian kitchen, it's hardly meant for actually using in an Asian kitchen - there's not a flat surface big enough in mine to lay it open on. I'll have to copy out the recipes I like best and leave the book on my coffee table.

[mbhank]

I know what you mean about the larger cookbooks. Get a cookbook stand either on line or in a cooking supply store. That might solve the problem.

[nakji]

I know what you mean about the larger cookbooks. Get a cookbook stand either on line or in a cooking supply store. That might solve the problem

I've been eying one for a while. This might be the book that pushes me over the edge - as long as I can find a space for the stand in my kitchen!

[mbhank]

Hi Erin,

I use the cookbook stand to hold any book I am using to cook with regardless of the size. Holds the book open, upright, and you can just read the recipe much more easily while you're working.

BTW - If you like Chinese cooking check out Grace Young's new book "Stir Frying to the Sky's Edge."

Regards,

Hank

[MelissaH]

My solution to the no-cookbook-stand problem goes hand-in-hand with the fact that I really don't like to bring my cookbooks into the kitchen and work from them directly. I grab a sheet of paper, and rewrite the recipe. I don't necessarily keep all the detail, if I don't think I need it, and I put things into a form that makes sense to me. And just the act of writing out what I will be doing helps get it into my brain, sort of like a "pre-lab" assignment from my student days.

I'm lucky enough to have magnetic strips in my current kitchen, but I've also used some of the post-it note tape or blue painter's tape to fasten my scribblings where I can see them.

MelissaH

[nakji]

I tried another recipe last night - Beef and Lettuce salad.

I've been getting a delivery of organic vegetables from a local farm for a couple of months, and I keep getting something that the invoice calls "lactuca", which is a non-specific way of saying lettuce. Only it doesn't look like any lettuce I've ever had. Anyway, I asked my coworkers, and they said it's called "you mei cai". I'm wondering if it's not what the author's refer to as "stem lettuce" in their notes on ingredients? I'd never heard of stem lettuce before, but I think this may match their description. I used the you mei cai instead of the romaine they called for, and I also added some handfuls of cilantro that came in the same vegetable delivery that needed using up. It was an okay dish, but I think I would make it again increasing the amount of soy and vinegar called for up from the 1 tbsp. each to make for a stronger dressing. I did enjoy the contrasting textures of the salad, but the flavour of the dressing was just to bland for me. Fortunately, I served it with "fish-flavoured eggplants", which provided a spicy contrast.

[Snadra]

Erin, your pictures are great!

Due to work & study commitments I've not been making too many new recipes lately, but last I made the Dai Carrot Salad. It didn't have quite as much flavour as I was expecting, but I think the issue may have been the carrots. No pics, as I forgot until after we'd eaten it! Next time I may use a different cut on the carrots as well. I had sliced them quite thin, and they kept sticking together. Thick-ish matchsticks may allow the dressing to permeate a little better. Or maybe I sliced them too thin? Still, it's a dish I'd do again, with better carrots next time.

[nakji]

I have that recipe bookmarked, but I haven't tried it yet!

How did you cut the carrots? Into slices by cutting rounds, then cutting the rounds into matchsticks? That's what I usually do when I have to prep a lot of matchsticks quickly. You'd think that thinner carrots would absorb/carry the dressing better than thicker ones. I'm also thinking that if that was prepared for a restaurant, it would probably spend all day marinating as well. Did the recipe call for any wait time before eating it?

I made the pomegranate with cilantro and red onion salad last week, since pomegranates have come into season. It was good, but I thought it could have benefited from a little oil in the dressing to cut the sharpness. If I had to do it again, I'd probably add sesame or peanut oil to it.

[Snadra]

How did you cut the carrots?

I sliced them thinly on the diagonal, in fact very thinly because I used my v-slicer. I did have problems with them sticking together, and the dressing not really getting in, which is why I think matchstick might work better.

I'm also thinking that if that was prepared for a restaurant, it would probably spend all day marinating as well. Did the recipe call for any wait time before eating it?

I don't recall it calling for any wait time. It sat for about 15-20 minutes before we ate it, but like you say, longer makes a lot of sense. Next time I might double the dressing as well, as it could have used a little more. I would also add don't go too heavy on the green onion, as it overpowers - or at least it overpowers substandard carrots! It's worth making again and it certainly strikes me as a do-ahead dish.

I made the pomegranate with cilantro and red onion salad last week, since pomegranates have come into season. It was good, but I thought it could have benefited from a little oil in the dressing to cut the sharpness. If I had to do it again, I'd probably add sesame or peanut oil to it.

I'll have to look that one up in the book! I find pomegranates quite variable. We had a tree in our yard for a while, and it produced quite sour ones, but when I've bought them from the shops they've been much sweeter. I can imagine that salad would be quite sharp and refreshing. What did you have with it?

We ate the carrot salad with my first attempt at karaage and plain medium-grain rice. It was quite a nice combo.

[nakji]

I'll have to look that one up in the book! I find pomegranates quite variable. We had a tree in our yard for a while, and it produced quite sour ones, but when I've bought them from the shops they've been much sweeter. I can imagine that salad would be quite sharp and refreshing. What did you have with it?

We ate the carrot salad with my first attempt at karaage and plain medium-grain rice. It was quite a nice combo.

The pomegranates here are yellow, rather than the more traditional red I'm used to seeing in Canada. Inside the seeds are pinkish rather than blood-red, but have pretty much the same sweet flavour, I find. We had the salad alongside a beef and potato stew from Dunlop's Revolutionary cuisine. A nice grouping; I'd make it again.

Carrot salad and karaage sound excellent together.

[Snadra]

I tried another recipe last night - Beef and Lettuce salad.

I've been getting a delivery of organic vegetables from a local farm for a couple of months, and I keep getting something that the invoice calls "lactuca", which is a non-specific way of saying lettuce. Only it doesn't look like any lettuce I've ever had. Anyway, I asked my coworkers, and they said it's called "you mei cai". I'm wondering if it's not what the author's refer to as "stem lettuce" in their notes on ingredients? I'd never heard of stem lettuce before, but I think this may match their description. I used the you mei cai instead of the romaine they called for, and I also added some handfuls of cilantro that came in the same vegetable delivery that needed using up. It was an okay dish, but I think I would make it again increasing the amount of soy and vinegar called for up from the 1 tbsp. each to make for a stronger dressing. I did enjoy the contrasting textures of the salad, but the flavour of the dressing was just to bland for me. Fortunately, I served it with "fish-flavoured eggplants", which provided a spicy contrast.

Finally got around to making this salad last night (really must start taking pictures...) Followed the directions exactly (a rarity for me)but used leaf lettuce instead of romaine/cos. You're right, it could use a little bit more sharpness to it, and I ended up adding some pickled ground chiles to it at the table as well. I quite like the flavour of just-wilted lettuce and worked well with this dish. We had it for a main course, but it wasn't quite filling enough. Next time I'll make some rice or even green onion pancakes to go with it but last night was all about getting it out quickly - including washing the lettuce, it only took about 15 minutes! I can see making this with any mince (chicken, pork, lamb) and salad greens at hand, with a slightly more generous amount of seasoning.

[Will]

I've been getting a delivery of organic vegetables from a local farm for a couple of months, and I keep getting something that the invoice calls "lactuca", which is a non-specific way of saying lettuce. Only it doesn't look like any lettuce I've ever had. Anyway, I asked my coworkers, and they said it's called "you mei cai".

Maybe you mai cai (油麦菜)? I think this is the same thing as what's called A菜 in Taiwan (A being a rough transliteration of the sound of the Hokkien / Taiwanese word used for that plant). I've never eaten it raw, but it's great stir-fried.

Edited November 11, 2010 by Will (log)

[nakji]

It could well be. And I don't have the receipt to check, I'm afraid. Next time I get one, I'll post a picture.

I haven't made anything out of this book for well over a month, I've been so busy I've barely been cooking at home at all. I'd like to tackle one of the noodle dishes, though. Has anyone tried one?

[nakji]

....Aaannnd four months later, I've picked it up again. CSA delivered a couple of carrots - rare for them - and I knew I had pork at home, so it seemed a good time to do Carrot and Ginger Stir-fry.

The flavour in this dish is just phenomenal - it calls for a cup of sliced ginger, and with the new ginger coming into season now, the intense heat from that, coupled with the sweetness of the carrots worked really well. Small changes - I left out the Sichuan peppercorns, as I'm not a huge fan, and instead of water I used some chicken stock that needed using up.

Served with some gai lan and sesame rice on the side.