Couverture: Sources, Favorites, Storage, Troubleshooting

[Sebastian]

To add to the already good information pertaining to lecithin in chocolate, lecithin is known as an emulsifier. It's an ampiphilic molecule (meaning one end likes to hold on to water or hydrogen-binding capable ingredients) while the other end likes to hold on to fat. Because chocolate is a suspension of largely water soluable materials in a lipid (fatty) fluid phase, there are frictional interferences that occur at those phase boundaries. What lecithin does, largely, is to act as a sort of lubricating bridge between those materials, reducing that frictional force and allowing materials to become 'slippery', so that net:net, less fluid phase is required to keep or get things flowing. Economically, as mentoined already, it's a huge advantage to the manufacturer as it keeps costs down. Practicaly, it's an advantage in situations where high moisture is present - obviously oil and water don't mix, and when you get water - even very small amounts of water - in chocolate, you're going to have very serious viscosity issues arise. Lecithin can act as a sort of moisture scavenger to collect excess moisture and prevent rheological thickening as a result of additional phase changes due to excess moisture.

There are also identify preserved sources of lecithin that are GMO free - most industrial manufacturers aren't using them because they're expensive. The could use them specific to certain products or product lines, but because manufacturing plants are also very expensive - in almost all cases many products are made on shared equipment that's impossible to clean entirely to remove all vestiges of trace materials. If a mfr were to run product specific GMO free lecithin products, it wouldn't be possible to certify that it was indeed GMO free as there would undoubtedly be cross contamination due to shared equipment..and the cost to convert the entire facility to GMO products can be very hard to pass on to customers, many of which don't at this point care one way or the other. They're not opposed to GMO free lecithin - many would gladly accept it as long as it didn't necessitate a label change - they just don't want to be asked to pay more for it.

[Steve Klc]

That was a great contribution Sebastian, thanks and welcome.

[Qui]

I recently got into a conversation with a co-worker about chocolate and I am curious to find out which is your favorite chocolate to use and why. At our bakery, we have a few brands of chocolates for different applications. The reason for me to start this topic is when my least favorite chocolate turns out to be my co-worker's favorite chocolate. Is this just a matter of taste? Or is there somekind of ground rules on deciding what's a good chocolate. To me, it's the flavor and the texture (mouthfeel).

I am not an expert on chocolates, but over the years have had enough opportunities to use a few different brands of chocolates on different applications to notice the difference in term of flavor and texture. Personally I like Callebaut/Cocoa Barry and Valrhona. I prefer Valrhona when making very chocolatey desserts, like a rich chocolate mousse. I like it's cocoa powder for a rich, chocolatey devil's food cake. If it wasn't for the cost, I would use Valrhona is a lot more applications.

E. Guittard - I like it but I've only used it for candy making like ganache and enrobing. It has good flavor and good viscosity.

Shaffenberger - I think this chocolate is a little too viscous and sometimes it get difficult to use.

Des Alpes by Albert Uster - I am not too crazy about it's flavor, I think it's a little sweet and in my experience a little tempremental. I have difficulties tempering this chocolate on several occasions (that may just be my lack of skill in tempering).

El Ray - I have only used this for tempering - for showpiece purposes.

Peter's - Do not like the flavor at all and very viscous

Cocoa Noel, Weiss, Michel Cluziel, Felchlin etc, just a few more out there that I haven't used before.

What have you used and what is your experience with them?

Thanks!

[merstar]

Well, I'm going to go against the grain, and say that Ghirardelli 60% bittersweet (haven't tried their 70%), and semi-sweet baking bars are my first choice for baked goods, ganaches, ice cream, etc. They melt like a dream and are very easy to work with, plus yield a deep, dark chocolate taste. I've used Callebaut, Scharffen Berger, Lindt, El Rey (my least favorite), etc., and still prefer Ghirardelli for most applications. I do like Scharffen Berger 70%, however, and have baked with it occasionally. I dislike all types of Valrhona, other than their Lactee, so I've never considered baking with any of them. Santander Columbian 70% is a great chocolate and melts beautifully - it's also delicious eating out of hand. Some other great ones are Fiori Sera 65% and Chocovic Guaranda, although I've only tried them out of hand, so I don't know how they melt.

[ejw50]

For "dark" chocolate, Callebaut semisweet 811NV 54%

Few reasons

1. I can buy it locally for $39.99 for 11 lbs. This is by far cheaper than anything else I can get.

2. My audience. For the most part, I bake for regular people. In my taste tests, they like semisweet more than bittersweet. They also find Callebaut to be more "generic" than Valrhona (for example). In other words, I buy what people like, but also avoid anything too distinctive that they won't like.

For milk chocolate, I use Callebaut (mostly for price). I do not like Callebaut white (and neither did others in informal taste testing), so I buy either El Rey or Valrhona depending on what I am using it for and what is available at the store.

I am definitely not a pro, but neither is my audience. So I buy something that works for me and them.

Edited October 21, 2007 by ejw50 (log)

[Kerry Beal]

For dark I like Callebaut 815NV which is bittersweet. I find the 811 too sweet for my taste.

Milk - I get 665NV - very smooth and caramelly.

White - Excellent WNV - also very smooth and caramelly.

If I don't have access to the Callebaut I find the chocolate sold under the Presidents Choice label very acceptable (but I notice the bars just got a whole lot smaller). The chocolate sold in big bars in Walmart is also excellent.

[prairiegirl]

I use a whole assortment of chocolate. I pair different chocolate with the fillings I use. For example I like to use Valrhona Caraibe as part of the ganach for a coffee filling. Candied orange peels I use Valrhona Manjari. I will use Cocoa barry 64% Quayaquil for thin shell moulding, as well as for dipping nuts. I will use El-Rey and Vintage Plantations also. I tend to like Cocoa Barry better than Callebaut, but I also really like Callebaut 665 milk because it does taste very good and I like the colour contrast as it is a light milk chocolate. i have many different chocolate brands on hand because I use them in my chocolate tasting presentations and my clientele also likes the variety I use. Callebaut and Cocoa Barry have a large single origin line of chocolate out on the market, but I go with the small batch producers because they don't deodorize the cocoa butter and they are purchasing some of the best beans on the planet! So when I do a tasting the flavours really pop out and people understand why some chocolate is $3 and why others are $10

[David J.]

I use Callebaut 811NV for my dark, but I may give the 815NV or even 835NV a try. Most of these basic formulas are available in varying viscosities. The basic taste is the same, but the workability for different techiques varies. If you find a letter in the prefix it means a thicker than normal batch: A-1%, B-2%, C-3% less cocoa butter, and so on. If you get a number in the prefix that means that percentage more: 1-1%, 2-2%, etc. If you like a particular brand but find it too thick you can always add cocoa butter to decrease the viscosity.

I also use Callebaut for Milk and White, but that has been through inertia and I'll probably try other brands when what I have on hand runs out.

[tammylc]

I was using E. Guittard up until very recently, but i've just switched over to Michel Cluizel. It has great flavor and is very easy to work with. Expensive, but I'm ordering it directly from the distributor, so that puts it within the realm of possibility.

I liked the Guittard, it tempered nicely and had good viscosity, but the 72% had a bit of a smoky bitter finish that some of my tasters noticed and didn't like. The Cluizel has always been my favorite, but was financially out of reach until i figured out to order it direct.

[rmillman]

I am not in the industry so I do not need to control my costs as much as those in the industry do. As such, I spend the EXTRA and go for Amedei. Each has a unique flavor profile and they temper and blend incredibly well.

The Chuao is my favorite of all time and the "9" is also really special.

Amedei “9” (Dark) 75%

Amedei Toscano Black (Dark) 70%

Amedei Chuao (Dark)

[ejw50]

Looking at his book, Frederic Bau uses all sorts of chocolates for the centers. But for coating, he recommends something like Caraque (55-60%). His reasoning is that he is looking for a coating that works with all centers, and some centers do not benefit from "strong coatings".

[Mikeb19]

My favourites are the Callebaut Origine (single origin) chocolates. The flavours are amazing, and I haven't had any problems working with them.

http://www.callebaut.com/en/150

Edited October 25, 2007 by Mikeb19 (log)

[dejaq]

This critique is based on over twenty five years of fooling around with couverture.

Disclaimer, I am honest, brutally honest when it comes to taste and performance, if I insult anyone that favors with something below or disagrees with my eval, remember it’s all subjective.

In my experience Callebaut make a fine chocolate, but it’s regarded more as a workhorse AP type these days particularly the 60/40 than anything else with exception to their new Origine varieties, I had an opportunity to try some of them at a recent P.W. seminar, they come to within 90% of the flavor profile of manjari and the java noted below.

Cacao Noel has been consigned to the doldrums of a generic class such as American Gourmet’s (Chef’s Club) private label, inexpensive, yet effective.

Valronha, hmmmm we used it exclusively at the President’s guest house the Maybach of couvertures, pricy cost no object, let’s through our food cost out the window.

Cocoa Barry-one of my ATF, consistent, high quality, their Quayaquil is richer and more

Pronounced with less acidity and astringency than for example DGF’s

Des Alpes- good, actually very good-the garnet is a bit mild in the flavor niche,

But their 70% is superior, I use it daily.

Patisfrance- actually very good, hard to get these days though, they have a Java Milk to die for with earthy, spicy, caramel notes-superior.

DGF- I love the absolute white, the milk is ok, and as noted the Quayaquil is on the acidic Side, for you master blender choco wizards out there this is a nice one to throw into your “custom blend mix”

Chocovic-makes a superior 70% and small change dark, intense, yet with subtle notes in the finish, it’s what I refer to as a balanced couverture, carried locally by Metropolitan.

El Rey-deleterious results, poor sheen. Schokinag Chocolate is unfortunately in the same boat, these guys don’t know how to make chocolate in MHO.

Felchlin-the Lucerne 44% will not function with a quick mousse, it seizes. Flavor profile is weak, the matterhorn , is decent, the Edelweiss, is a bit sweet, their Arriba is good though, if at a premium.

[Qui]

Thanks for the evaluation! I plan on doing a taste and performance test on different couverture after the holiday, should be a fun project... maybe I will have more question for you when the time comes...

This critique is based on over twenty five years of fooling around with couverture.

Disclaimer, I am honest, brutally honest when it comes to taste and performance, if I insult anyone that favors with something below or disagrees with my eval, remember it’s all subjective.

In my experience Callebaut make a fine chocolate, but it’s regarded more as a workhorse AP type these days particularly the 60/40 than anything else with exception to their new Origine varieties, I had an opportunity to try some of them at a recent P.W. seminar, they come to within 90% of the flavor profile of manjari and the java noted below.

Cacao Noel has been consigned to the doldrums of a generic class such as American Gourmet’s (Chef’s Club) private label, inexpensive, yet effective.

Valronha, hmmmm we used it exclusively at the President’s guest house the Maybach of couvertures, pricy cost no object, let’s through our food cost out the window.

Cocoa Barry-one of my ATF, consistent, high quality, their Quayaquil is richer and more

Pronounced with less acidity and astringency than for example DGF’s

Des Alpes- good, actually very good-the garnet is a bit mild in the flavor niche,

But their 70% is superior, I use it daily.

Patisfrance- actually very good, hard to get these days though, they have a Java Milk to die for with earthy, spicy, caramel notes-superior.

DGF- I love the absolute white, the milk is ok, and as noted the Quayaquil is on the acidic Side, for you master blender choco wizards out there this is a nice one to throw into your  “custom blend mix”

Chocovic-makes a superior 70% and small change dark, intense, yet with subtle notes in the finish, it’s what I refer to as a balanced couverture, carried locally by Metropolitan.

El Rey-deleterious results, poor sheen. Schokinag Chocolate is unfortunately in the same boat, these guys don’t know how to make chocolate in MHO.

Felchlin-the Lucerne 44% will not function with a quick mousse, it seizes. Flavor profile is weak, the matterhorn , is decent, the Edelweiss, is a bit sweet, their Arriba is good though, if at a premium.

←

[merstar]

This critique is based on over twenty five years of fooling around with couverture.

Disclaimer, I am honest, brutally honest when it comes to taste and performance, if I insult anyone that favors with something below or disagrees with my eval, remember it’s all subjective.

Chocovic-makes a superior 70% and small change dark, intense, yet with subtle notes in the finish, it’s what I refer to as a balanced couverture, carried locally by Metropolitan.

←

I've only tried the Chocovic 71% Guaranda and 71% Ocumare. Loved the Guaranda, hated the Ocumare.

Is this the Chocovic 70% you're referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Chocovic-Maragda-70%...e/dp/B000OZW7CA

Edited December 2, 2007 by merstar (log)

[dejaq]

This critique is based on over twenty five years of fooling around with couverture.

Disclaimer, I am honest, brutally honest when it comes to taste and performance, if I insult anyone that favors with something below or disagrees with my eval, remember it’s all subjective.

Chocovic-makes a superior 70% and small change dark, intense, yet with subtle notes in the finish, it’s what I refer to as a balanced couverture, carried locally by Metropolitan.

←

I've only tried the Chocovic 71% Guaranda and 71% Ocumare. Loved the Guaranda, hated the Ocumare.

Is this the Chocovic 70% you're referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Chocovic-Maragda-70%...e/dp/B000OZW7CA

←

the Guaranda which uses forastero arriba cocoa from Ecuador and yes is the best of the lot. Chocovic also make a blended Tobago which actually is a 64% that is spectacular, very nice full bodied flavor.

M

[merstar]

This critique is based on over twenty five years of fooling around with couverture.

Disclaimer, I am honest, brutally honest when it comes to taste and performance, if I insult anyone that favors with something below or disagrees with my eval, remember it’s all subjective.

Chocovic-makes a superior 70% and small change dark, intense, yet with subtle notes in the finish, it’s what I refer to as a balanced couverture, carried locally by Metropolitan.

←

I've only tried the Chocovic 71% Guaranda and 71% Ocumare. Loved the Guaranda, hated the Ocumare.

Is this the Chocovic 70% you're referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Chocovic-Maragda-70%...e/dp/B000OZW7CA

←

the Guaranda which uses forastero arriba cocoa from Ecuador and yes is the best of the lot. Chocovic also make a blended Tobago which actually is a 64% that is spectacular, very nice full bodied flavor.

M

←

Thanks, I'll keep my eyes open for the Tobago.

[annachan]

For flavor, I love Weiss' milk chocolate with the caramel undertone. I also got the 64% to try out.

[golfgirl1227]

I use Callebaut D811 for pretty much everything- but I don't make chocolates or candies- just cakes/cookies/brownies/etc. It's what we used in my classes and it works for me now as well. I can get it in large quantities for a reasonable price and no shipping since it's somewhat local (used to be very local, then I moved).

I just saw that you were in KC- I get it from the Chocolate Store/Mid America Gourmet in Lenexa (or maybe OP, not really sure). Have you been there? They have so much chocolate, and it smells incredible in there!!!!

Edited December 5, 2007 by golfgirl1227 (log)

[QbanCrackr]

**I know this is a little on the long side, but I'm just looking for some good advice from those in the know about this subject. **

My family is opening up a bakery in the very very near future (should be opening before March). My mom and sister are taking care of the cupcakes/cakes and I'll occasionally help them with decorating or planning on the crazy cakes. My role there is mainly with desserts and chocolates. I've been messing around for a while now with truffles and have had great successes when i've let friends and family try my stuff.

I've been going back and forth debating about buying a chocolate tempering machine but as much as it'd probably help with time, I really want to be able to temper it myself by hand. I've done alot of reading on the subject and am more familiar with tempering in theory, but the only chocolate i've had is a block of Callebaut milk chocolate (i think the 811nv, had 2 or 3 droplets). I've tried tempering it 3-4 times and of those times about 2 times i had chocolates that weren't shiny (as i've heard that this comes from the chocolate setting up against something shiny i.e. mold or acetate) but had a definite snap to them and didnt melt immediately when you touched them.

With the opening coming soon, I know i'd be able to at least offer truffles in the beginning but i'd want to be able to move on to the molded chocolates and hand dipped variety, but my abilities with the tempering are very limited. I came across Qzina one night while searching for where to buy couverture in Miami, and being about an hour away from us, they might be able to help out.

I got their price list and catalog but to be honest, I see so much chocolate there I wouldn't know what'd be a good choice to practice with and eventually be able to use the same chocolate in the kitchen.

Even with all my reading, I guess it's so much information that it overwhelms me as I'm learning about this.

Correct me if i'm wrong--Couverture is a higher class of chocolate due to its higher cocoa butter content right? And when tempered you form the stable form v crystals which give the gloss & snap to the chocolate. Is this a whole other animal than chocolate used for lets say ganache and baking right? I'd assume you could use them for both but is the couverture more suited towards just covering chocolate?

Forgive me if the chocolate names look weird, I'm just copying & pasting from the price list.

I've heard that CACAO BARR FAVORITE MI-AMERE BITTER SWEET CHOCOLATE is a good chocolate, and they also have all these

Semi-Sweet Couverture

CACAO BARR FORCE NOIRE SEMI SWEET GANACHE CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 50%

CALLEBAUT 811 SELECT UNWRAPPED SEMI SWEET CHOCOLATE BLOCK 56%

CALLEBAUT 811NV SELECT SEMI SWEET CHOCOLATE CALLETS 56%

CALLEBAUT C811NV SELECT SEMI SWEET CHOCOLATE CALLETS 54.5%

CALLEBAUT D811NV SELECT SEMI SWEET CHOCOLATE BLOCK 54%

Bitter-Sweet Couverture

CACAO BARR GUAYAQUIL BITTER SWEET CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 64%

CACAO BARR CHOCOLAT AMER BITTER SWEET CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 60%

CALLEBAUT L6040NV INTENSE BITTER SWEET GANACHE CHOCOLATE BLOCK 60%

CALLEBAUT L6040NV INTENSE BITTER SWEET GANACHE CHOCOLATE

Milk Chocolate Couverture

CACAO BARR LACTEE SUPERIEURE MILK CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 37%

CACAO BARR LACTEE BARRY MILK CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 35%

CALLEBAUT 823NV SELECT UNWRAPPED MILK CHOCOLATE BLOCK 35%

CALLEBAUT C823NV SELECT MILK CHOCOLATE BLOCK 34%

CALLEBAUT C823NV SELECT MILK CHOCOLATE CALLETS 34%

White Chocolate Couverture

CACAO BARR BLANC SATIN WHITE CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 29%

CALLEBAUT CW2NV SELECT WHITE CHOCOLATE BLOCK 28%

CALLEBAUT CW2NV SELECT WHITE CHOCOLATE CALLETS 28%

CALLEBAUT CW2NV SELECT UNWRAPPED WHITE CHOCOLATE BLOCK 28%

Single Origin Couverture

CACAO BARR TANZANIE ORIGIN BITTER SWEET CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 75%

CACAO BARR ST. DOMINGUE ORIGIN BITTER SWEET CHOCOLATE PISTOLES 70%

We've been in contact from a Belcolade representative but I've never tried their stuff nor heard of them before last week, and Qzina also carries Valrhona but at about twice the price of cacao barry & callebaut. I've looked into Scharffenberger as well as E.Guittard but can't find anyone locally that sells the stuff (go figure).

In any case...help! I've got alot of ideas that I'd love to try out, and we've got the budget right now to buy chocolates to mess with recipes and whatnot but I just need some help on the couverture end.

Thanks to those who respond, and if you don't respond but just took the time to read the whole post, thanks to you too.

Danny

[RWood]

I've never been a fan of Callebaut for tempering. Always seems to thick. I've used it for baking and such, and it's fine.

Valrhona is always a great choice, but price wise, I tend to stay away. I use El Rey, and it's very easy to get directly from the company. Their service has always been great. Prices tend to fluctuate with them though.

I've started using the Orchid line from Albert Uster recently. My rep kept pushing it at my last job. I used it there, but not for chocolate work. I ordered the white chocolate and the 74%. The white tempered great, and was very fluid, probably along the lines of Valrhona. It has much more vanilla than I was used to with El Rey. The 74% has a great flavor, and I hope to make a center with it this week.

The price is really great, $38 for 11 lb box of callets. I've always used block chocolate for my Rev Delta, but these white callets melted so smoothly and quickly, I didn't have any problems with it. I may re-try some of the others when I need to order more dark chocolates.

[Kerry Beal]

I'd go for the Belcolade with those choices. Make sure it's the Belgian, not the US made stuff. Good everyday chocolate - excellent viscosity for molding.

[RichardJones]

Correct me if i'm wrong--Couverture is a higher class of chocolate due to its higher cocoa butter content right? And when tempered you form the stable form v crystals which give the gloss & snap to the chocolate. Is this a whole other animal than chocolate used for lets say ganache and baking right? I'd assume you could use them for both but is the couverture more suited towards just covering chocolate?

That's pretty much it. Couverture has just cocoa butter and no vegetable fats. Tempering generates the stable kind of crystals which may be type five, type vi or beta crystals and so on depending on whom you ask.

Generally a pâtissier uses couverture for all applications. They are often higher quality on the cocoa front (than candy style chocolates) and so have better flavour for the other applications, too. You would certainly want to use a good couverture for a ganache. In fact, many of the big names (e.g. Wybauw) even suggest using tempered couverture for ganaches.

Cacao Barry and Callebaut (part of the same organization, I believe) are a good bet, but as RWood points out, Callebaut is quite thick when tempered. It is perfectly workable, though, and the Callebaut I've used I have liked. Valrhona is superb and is the chocolate of choice for all the pâtissiers I know. But there are cheaper alternatives (see post above). Some Belgian chocolatiers only use Belcolade, for instance. My suggestion would be to get a selection and grade them for their taste and ease of working and go from there.

Re your tempering point, definitely worth learning to temper by hand IMHO. Moulded chocolates will have a different shine on them to dipped chocolates (without acetate) but dipped chocolates should still have a nice tempered sheen to them.

Do you feel you are ready to be setting up as a professional?

Edited January 12, 2010 by RichardJones (log)

[Kerry Beal]

Not all callebaut formulations are thick when tempered - they makes hundreds of different formulations - with various amounts of cocoa butter. Finding one of their formulations with 5 drops will give you a chocolate that is suitable for molding and relatively thin when in temper. The letter in front of the 811 indicates viscosity.

[ElsieD]

Kerry, where does one find Belcolade in Ontario?