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9 phrases to ban from restaurant menus


Alex

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I nominate restaurants that bill themselves as "regional", as in "regional Italian."  This seems to be a meaningless phrase.  It might mean that the restaurant specializes in the cuisine of a particular region, in which case they'd be better off, and more accurate, referring to themselves as "Tuscan" or "Emilian" or "Roman" or whatever.  Or (as seems more often to be the case) it means that they feature dishes from a number of regions.  In that case, "regional" just means "Italian."

In practice, "regional" seems to be code for "not Italian-American" (or in another context, "Americanized Chinese".)  But it's a poor way of expressing that idea.

Agreed, Andrew.

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I nominate restaurants that bill themselves as "regional", as in "regional Italian."  This seems to be a meaningless phrase.  It might mean that the restaurant specializes in the cuisine of a particular region, in which case they'd be better off, and more accurate, referring to themselves as "Tuscan" or "Emilian" or "Roman" or whatever.  Or (as seems more often to be the case) it means that they feature dishes from a number of regions.  In that case, "regional" just means "Italian."

In practice, "regional" seems to be code for "not Italian-American" (or in another context, "Americanized Chinese".)  But it's a poor way of expressing that idea.

There is an Italian restaurant here in the city that "focuses on [the chef's] hometown of Puglia, Italy"

But when you look at the menu it lists:

-Insalata Romana

-Stracciatella Florentina

-Melanzane Alla Parmigiana

I want to send the guy a map of Italy.

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I think if the provenance thing gets out of hand, it becomes a precious affectation.  It's one thing to say "Sconzo Farms Cote de Boeuf with red wine reduction and roasted Wemedge Crest parsnips."  It's another thing to say, as some places do, "Sconzo Farms Maremmana Côte de Boeuf, reduction of Kinsey Cellars biodynamic Claret 2007 mounted with Fat Guy Dairy grass-fed pig butter, roasted Wemedge Crest parsnips, Raji  Meadows heirloom Amish 'speckled' onions, organic Sneakeater Mews parsley."

I think the provenance needs to be moved to a less important spot. "Sconzo Farms Cote de Boeuf" should be "Cote de Boeuf from Sconzo Farms".

When I'm scanning down a menu the first few words I see is Sconzo Farms, which is meaningless to me. I want to see Cote de Boeuf first.

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I think the provenance needs to be moved to a less important spot. "Sconzo Farms Cote de Boeuf" should be "Cote de Boeuf from Sconzo Farms".

When I'm scanning down a menu the first few words I see is Sconzo Farms, which is meaningless to me. I want to see Cote de Boeuf first.

I agree, and I also think that listing the provenance of an item should be restricted to those restaurants that have directly interacted with the farmer. If you're getting your [insert name here] from some faceless supplier, I couldn't care less that it came from a big name producer. But if you're trying to show that you got this delicious rack of lamb from John the farmer down the street, I think it's legitimate to support him, and advertise for him, if you will, through the menu.

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I've always assumed that those places that tout their suppliers, eg the ubiquitous Niman ranch, are paid by the supplier to do so.  Anyone know if this is true?

No. They do it to show off their bona fides as supporters of local, sustainable, seasonal etc. farming cooking; to illustrate their prowess as shoppers, sorry, foragers; and to impress those of us who recognize the names (Niman Ranch? meh. Polyface? Now we're talkin').

I'm on the pavement

Thinking about the government.

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I think if the provenance thing gets out of hand, it becomes a precious affectation.  It's one thing to say "Sconzo Farms Cote de Boeuf with red wine reduction and roasted Wemedge Crest parsnips."  It's another thing to say, as some places do, "Sconzo Farms Maremmana Côte de Boeuf, reduction of Kinsey Cellars biodynamic Claret 2007 mounted with Fat Guy Dairy grass-fed pig butter, roasted Wemedge Crest parsnips, Raji  Meadows heirloom Amish 'speckled' onions, organic Sneakeater Mews parsley."

That just totally made me laugh out loud! :laugh:

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"Did you see what Julia Child did to that chicken?" ... Howard Borden on "Bob Newhart"

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