Pub & Kitchen

[mattohara]

The space looks gorgeous. There's a back room that looks like it seats about 18. The oysters were as fresh as can be. The duck liver toasts were small but perfect. The burger came out at room temp, but was still good. And the onion rings were amazing. Just perfect batter. Not breadcrumb-y but more like a thick tempura. No condiments were provided for the burger or onion rings so I had to request some dijon.

If you go just to stop by and check it out don't leave without trying those onion rings!

[Buckethead]

The space looks gorgeous.  There's a back room that looks like it seats about 18.  The oysters were as fresh as can be.  The duck liver toasts were small but perfect.  The burger came out at room temp, but was still good.  And the onion rings were amazing.  Just perfect batter.  Not breadcrumb-y but more like a thick tempura.  No condiments were provided for the burger or onion rings so I had to request some dijon.

If you go just to stop by and check it out don't leave without trying those onion rings!

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I liked the batter on the onion rings (as you say, it's very much like tempura) but they were a bit underseasoned in my case. But those vinegar potato crisps are awesome! So is the Windsor burger, it's up there with Good Dog as one of the best in the city. Did you get that one or the other one?

I love the space, very comfortable and inviting.

[mattohara]

I got the Windsor. Yes it was prety great. I'll try those potato crisps next time!

[Tim Dolan]

Guys, guys, details! What does this Windsor burger entail? What about "the other one"?

[RobinQ]

I enjoyed the shrimp appetizer with a homemade ginger ketchup, followed by the bangers, which came with a lovely salad.

[Buckethead]

Guys, guys, details!  What does this Windsor burger entail? What about "the other one"?

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It entails pork belly:

http://www.phoodie.info/2008/09/15/pub-and...bit-perfection/

There's a menu here, though it may be slightly different now:

http://foobooz.com/2008/09/pub-kitchen-is-coming/

[Holly Moore]

I enjoyed the shrimp appetizer with a homemade ginger ketchup, followed by the bangers, which came with a lovely salad.

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Bangers and salad? How healthily unhealthy.

[RobinQ]

I enjoyed the shrimp appetizer with a homemade ginger ketchup, followed by the bangers, which came with a lovely salad.

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Bangers and salad? How healthily unhealthy.

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I felt really guilty, too.

[Holly Moore]

Finally got a chance to try the Windsor Burger. It is a great burger - cooked a perfect medium rare.

Just as good - the batter fried onion rings.

The typical onion ring experience is biting into an onion ring, pulling out the entire onion in that bite, and being left with a handful of crust - and the ensuing guilt. Does one eat the crunchy, greasy, cholesterol laden crust even though its reason for being, the onion, is no more? Yes, of course. What's a little more guilt?

Pub and Kitchen's onions seeming dissolve into the batter - flavor is there so the onion must be there too. But I only saw them when a couple of rings clumped together slowing down the onion cooking/softening. Batter, itself, had great flavor.

If I was doing the menu, I'd offer the onion rings as a $3.50 supplement to the burger in lieu of the fries. Would probably boost the check average - though batter frying in volume is a challenge.

[sockii]

The fiance and I stopped in last weekend for the first time, after meaning to check out the space for a while. I'll admit, I was a little dubious at first -- though it had never been a great culinary experience, we had both been fond of the old Chaucers at that location as a cheap neighborhood hangout space, and the burgers there in the past had been some of our favorites in the city.

So we both had to try the Windsor Burger, and an order of the onion rings (and some broccoli rabe to pretend to be healthy.)

We started with the Cape May salts - lovely oysters, though I preferred mine plain with just lemon juice to their dipping sauce (maybe I'm weird but the only sauce I really like on good oysters is a nice hot cocktail sauce. Nothing fancy for me.) The burgers were as good as the raves lead me to suspect, and I liked the shoestring fries with them (though once cold they were pretty well inedible.) The onion rings were good but I could only manage about 2 of them as I think it was a bit more frying oil and batter than my system can handle in large quantities.

I do think they should offer the onion rings as a substitute - even with a surcharge - for the fries with a burger. I overheard them not allowing another customer a substitute of fries for mashed potatoes or something similar, which seems a bit weird to me. Even with lofty aspirations, it's still "bar food". I don't see what harm there is in allowing starch substitutions when, if the place is as packed as it was when we were there, the food is all going to be flying out of the kitchen pretty quick.

We also had one of the dessert specials of the night, which I can't recall much of beyond it involved peaches, crumbled pastry, and was pretty good. The total bill (with one beer and 3 house wines) was about $92 before tip, which did leave the fiance blinking a bit considering it was, well, burgers and fries. And we both went home and collapsed into a complete carb-and-meat-induced coma for the rest of the night.

All in all, I'll definitely be interested in trying some of their other dishes, though it won't be quite the regular "place up the street" for us since we can pay the same or less and go, if we want, to one of the byobs in the neighborhood that we enjoy for food that won't quite have us passing out to digest afterwards. But the next time I get a serious, major craving for a burger, I probably know where I'll go...

[HD73]

I'll throw in my two cents as well. I was excited to check this place out, and it didn't disappoint. It didn't quite thrill either, but I'll definitely be coming back.

Showed up with a friend and we weren't sure how hungry we were, so we just started out with a big order of the fries and some of the wings. I loved the wings at Snackbar, and while these were way more straight-ahead buffalo, they were delicious. The texture was less crispy than my ideal, but these were still quite good. The fries were also great, whether dipped in the truffle mayo/mustard that came with them or in the wing sauce.

The first two things were good enough (and we were hungry enough) to order the burger. I asked the server if we could substitute the malt vinegar crisps for the french fries that come with the burger. Answer: No substitutions, except that fries can be substituted for a salad. With no prompting from me, he went on to explain that this was a matter of food costs: bibb lettuce is expensive, potatoes are cheap. I nodded with a quizzical expression and just let it go. I guess it never hit the guy that: 1. I was substituting potatoes for potatoes; or 2. substituting crisps ($3 alone) for fries ($6 alone).

Not a big deal, and I didn't make a big deal about it, but it just seems silly. I completely, completely understand having no substitutions in a regular restaurant situation. I also understand rules based on food costs. But you're running, at least ostensibly, a bar. If a substitution is going to save you money, let it happen. And as others have suggested above, if a substitution is going to cost you extra, just pass that cost along to us transparently and we'll be happy to pay.

The burger itself was delicious, despite coming out pretty close to medium well after we ordered it medium rare. The meat itself seemed to be very well seasoned, and I think that made the flavor of the beef really pop. The toppings were great.

Service was very nice if a little stiff, but I think I'd probably sit at the bar next time. The tables are cheek by jowl (think Lolita or Melograno) and it kinda killed the "bar" vibe. Prices were eminently reasonable, both for food and drink, which was nice considering the fact that it looks like they spent quite a bit of money working over the space. A decent list of craft beers on tap and in bottles, although this isn't a beer destination with food so much as a food destination with beer. Their "house" wine was a Red Head Studios Shiraz(?) that was good and fairly priced, although I didn't look at the rest of the wine list.

This place has a ton of potential, and if it relaxes just a smidge and takes its name to heart, it could be a fantastic addition to the neighborhood.

Edited October 1, 2008 by HD73 (log)

[philadining]

Finally made it into Pub and Kitchen, then realized that I'd forgotten my camera... oh well.

I felt like the chorus of admiration for the Windsor Burger has been pretty consistent, so I decided to try something else (although the parade of them through the dining room all evening did make me question that decision...they looked pretty great.)

The beer list is a little short for a Philly pub, but they've got some good stuff on it, so it was no problem. I really enjoyed the Left Hand Sawtooth Ale they had on tap, it reminded me of good, solid British Bitter.

The menu is small, but probably just broad enough to satisfy most tastes. A few bar snacks and apps, a couple salads, three sandwiches (Lobster BLT, the Windsor Burger, a sausage sandwich), a steak, three fish entrées, a chicken dish and a veggie risotto.

The recent cold snap made me want something warm and comforting, and the Sautéed Chicken Breast with Irish Biscuit and Gravy sounded exactly right. It didn't turn out to be exactly what I'd pictured, but it was delicious, so I can't complain. The chicken itself was a marvel, amazingly tender, juicy, and flavorful, with a nicely crisped skin. It was accompanied by an herbed biscuit, mustardy green beans, and a pool of intense reduced jus. The word "gravy" makes me imagine a thick, hearty liquid, so I was a little surprised at the sauce, but not at all disappointed upon tasting it.

We also ordered the Fluke, served atop Lentils and greens. This was a simple, straight-ahead fish, very nicely executed. The greens were unusual, almost dehydrated, but everything worked together very nicely.

We got Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon on the side, and quite enjoyed the caramelized little nuggets. And the Onion Rings are awesome.

I got the Trifle for dessert, and the only quibble I have is that I always think of trifle as a melange of cake and custard and jam and fruits, doused in sherry. This one tasted very good, but was more minimal, with just figs, Creme Anglaise and a crunchy crumble. That's exactly how it was described on the blackboard, and the combination was quite nice, but I did find myself jonesing for cake and custard. But that probably has more to do with my own nostalgic expectations than with this particular dessert.

Service was super friendly, but then again, our waitress knew my dining partner, and Johnny Mac came over to say hi to us later. But it appeared to me that all the tables were getting similarly warm attention.

Overall we liked the place, liked the food. I do wonder a little whether simple, hearty, comfort food, no matter how well-prepared, will hold my interest in the long run. It might, and is very likely to appeal even more to customers with food preferences that are less-weird than mine. But I can't help hoping for an occasional special, or little twist on a standard, that can show off some of the culinary innovation that we know Johhny Mac is capable of. But then again, maybe this is not the place for that. And in the meantime, there's certainly nothing wrong with well-made food of any kind.

Now, what can we do to open up some parking spaces for me around there?

Edited October 3, 2008 by philadining (log)

[mrbigjas]

Now, what can we do to open up some parking spaces for me around there?

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there's not much to be done about it -- the neighborhood is full of rich people with lots of cars. you just need to drive south a ways. spaces start to open up around catharine -- it's only about three or four blocks.

[philadining]

Rick Nichols loves the fish and chips.

I'm not sure that I quite agree with the central premise, that chef Macdonald got "too big for his britches" cooking with modern techniques at snackbar, or that he needs to now make amends for that transgression, but I suspect that's how the history is going to be written.

Nonetheless, others have told me that the Fish and Chips at Pub and Kitchen is indeed really great.

[Holly Moore]

I'm all for atonement that yields pub fare above and beyond, but agree it was not needed in this case.

[MarketStEl]

Rick Nichols loves the fish and chips.

I'm not sure that I quite agree with the central premise, that chef Macdonald got "too big for his britches" cooking with modern techniques at snackbar[...]

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And what's happened to/at Snackbar?

[robsta]

Rick Nichols loves the fish and chips.

Nonetheless, others have told me that the Fish and Chips at Pub and Kitchen is indeed really great.

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I'm English and I asked the server before ordering if the Fish and Chips was traditional British Fish and Chips and was told that it was authentic.

I have to report that it was definitely not authentic. The batter was nowhere near as thick as it should be (the inside of the batter should be a little soft) and wasn't dark enough in colour. Also, the "chips" were not chips they were french fries. Real chips are very thick cut and soft, not crispy.

The dish was very tasty (we enjoyed the whole meal....and anywhere that has Morland Speckled Hen on tap is doing something very right), don't get me wrong, but should more appropriately be titled 'Lightly Battered Fish and French Fries'. It ain't 'Fish and Chips'.

[KatieLoeb]

I still haven't had a chance to check this place out, but both the burger and fish and 'taters (however one wishes to describe it) are high on my list of must try items.

The tone of Rick Nichols article is odd. Why would a chef have to "atone" for anything? Seems more like Johnny Mac just decided to get involved in a project that has a less high-falutin' concept and tailored the menu to suit. Seems reasonable to me.

[KatieLoeb]

Finally made it over to P & K tonight with a friend. I'd been jonesing for a good burger and the Windsor did not disappoint. Totally delicious and moist with awesome bacon and cheese on top. Good bun too. Tried the brussel sprouts and onion rings on the side. Oh my. My dining companion was floored by the sprouts. They were quite delicious. I thought the onion rings were great, although that big assed bucket of them was a bit too much, if such a thing is possible. I agree that they ought to do a small order of rings with an upcharge as a substitution for the fries, although I wonder if those would be a pain in the ass for the kitchen to pull off.

Service was very pleasant and efficient. Enjoyed a couple of nice glasses of wine and a Blanton's on the rocks for dessert. Next time I'll save room for the bread pudding which sounded stellar from the description. Chef Johnny Mac was nice enough to stop by our table and say hello and chat about the place. Looks like it's going very well for them there and I can totally see why. Looks like GM Ed Hackett has everything well under control. Best wishes to them for continued success. They'll be seeing me again, probably sooner than they'd like...

[Holly Moore]

Atonement is not out of the question. Will get to that in a sec.

eGullet lemming that I am, I went back to Pub & Kitchen for the fish and chips - two batter dipped and fried pieces of pollack, french fries, mushy peas, and freshly made mayonnaise with dijon and lemon.

The pollack had a nice, thick crust - fried to perfection, moist and flaky inside. When cut into, the crust stayed with the fish, didn't fall off - a rarity nowadays. Good flavor to both the batter and the fish.

I didn't get the reason for the dijon lemon mayonnaise. I asked the server if it was intended for the fries or the fish. He assured me it was delicious with the fish. Not to my taste. The mustard overpowered the pollack. Malt vinegar is the traditional accompaniment. Perhaps a mayonnaise based play on malt vinegar, or even a really good, freshly made tartar sauce or a tartar sauce with a Johnny Mac twist.

A tip of the bowler to Johnny Mac for forsaking British tradition and preparing the mushy peas that are not just edible, but tasty. Alas, though greenish, mushy peas are more starch than green vegetable. With a basic salad going for $8, I'd appreciate a little bit of real green vegetable with the entree.

Now for the reason for atonement: the chips. They are shoestring french fries. Fresh cut I'm sure, but predictable and not all that good. One of the challenges of offering fresh cut fries is that they need to be finish fried almost to order and when possible, to order. Let them sit around for even a couple of minutes and they are dead. Mine had been hanging around the kitchen a tad too long.

There is also the philosophical objection I share with the British gentleman above. Shoestring potatoes may go with a fried seafood platter from a family seafood restaurant in the suburbs. They do not belong with fish and chips. They do not enhance fish and chips. Fish and chips is a better dish when served with a thicker cut "chip."

Shoestring fries at trendy, casual restaurants have become one of life's inevitable gastronomic yawns. As stated in other threads, I have wondered if such is the curse of the McDonald's generation and their fast-food-shaped culinary expectations. No restaurant dares break from what has now become the cliche preparation of french fried potatoes. Perhaps, once things have settled down some at Pub & Kitchen, Johnny Mac will mess around a bit and come up with a more interesting potato side dish.

None of this is intended to take away from my appreciation of Pub & Kitchen. So much is done so well.

Edited October 15, 2008 by Holly Moore (log)

[Andrew Fenton]

I really liked the Windsor burger: everything about it was first-rate, from the patty itself (nicely medium-rare as I'd asked), to the crispy bacon to the slightly marinated onions. That's a fine burger. The night's special-- mussels cooked in a ginger beer base-- was also terrific.

But I have to disagree about the onion rings, which sucked. Two reasons for that. Number one, they were too oily, to the point where the main flavor in the batter was oil. Yuck. And number two, where was the onion? Barely any onion to be found there: a more accurate description would be "batter rings, lightly flavored with onion." Not to my taste.

[Holly Moore]

Got back to Pub and Kitchen this afternoon for a late lunch - one of those second most hated of all customers - someone who arrives at a restaurant a minute before opening (3:59). Most hated - a minute before closing.

The good news - the Windsor Burger is still one of the best burgers in Philadelphia.

Sad news - onion rings are only available for weekend brunch. Guess too much pressure in turnout.

Same old gripe - shoe string french fries. Lots of shorts and bits and pieces. Some cooked ok, some over cooked - too crisp. Can't wait til these go out of fashion. Can't happen soon enough.

New gripe - the manager type, "You can't park your scooter here (along side the restaurant) neighbors complain."

"Where should I park it?" Fair question

In a grating, parent/child manner, "Where do you usually park it?"

Uh, thanks, that was helpful. It was too cold to answer, "From now on anywhere but here," so I parked at the end of the building.

Peeve - I was the lone customer. A few minutes past opening, all the stools went up on the bar and were dusted off. Think that might happen when there are not customers.

There was a pork appetizer special - cheek, shoulder and trotters iragout style, over wide noodles. Sounded great, but I needed a burger.

Edited January 13, 2009 by Holly Moore (log)

[Tim Dolan]

This should probably be in the NJ thread but I just wanted to say that I had dinner Saturday night at their new place, the Diving Horse in Avalon, and it was AWESOME. That kitchen has some serious game. Our waitress and the manager seemed thrilled that we asked them for plastic cups so we could take our last bottle of wine up on the beach with us. I guess we stuck out against what looked like an older, bored crowd. It was early on Saturday though so maybe a less-stuffy crowd moved in after we left. None of that really matters though. If you're in Avalon, go there for dinner. Just do it. Food is phenomenal.

[Holly Moore]

Pub and Kitchen's new Churchill burger. Dry aged beef from La Frieda. Bone marrow butter. Sauteed onions. That's all. Perfection. When the meat is this good there is no need to gunk it up with fois gras, Roquefort cheese, wild mushrooms, et al a la gastropub.

[Tim Dolan]

I agree with Holly. I had it last night, it's a damn fine burger. So juicy that you kind of have to inhale when you bite it so the juice doesn't run out onto the plate. I really need to get to Village Whiskey to do a little compare and contrast.