New Orleans 72hours

[Sarabeth]

You are so welcome, Katie! I hope you get to come to town soon!

Edited October 8, 2008 by Sarabeth (log)

[mattohara]

we are in pain right now. we can't even muster the energy to put on our (now way too small) clothes and go out and see some nightlife. we can't even get up to change the channel housekeeping put on the tv at 2nd turndown. the funny thing is that it's a soothing "nature" channel and when a duck or crab comes on for a second i go "mmm...food"

you guys did us dirty. our minds and bodies are so conflicted about food right now. we're loving on NO but our bodies are saying "what...just...happened..."

more this weekend when we're recovered and pics are sorted.

[philadining]

Sounds like you did it right! Looking forward to a full report...

[Mayhaw Man]

Sounds like you did it right!  Looking forward to a full report...

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I like Blue Plate, but I think that it's mainly because no one ever tries to hurry you and I can just sit and happily read the newspaper for as long as I like.

As far as something to do besides August, I have recently eaten at both Bayona and Herbsaint and they were both very good, though I would give the nod to Herbsaint if I had to vote right now.

[mattohara]

I'm currently in the process of organizing, arrranging, titling, color-correcting, tagging and describing the 200 odd photos from the trip. You'll be most interested in the food set of course, but the whole collection is here:

mattohara's New Orleans photos

I'm not going to upload all the food pics here as many of them have been repeats of photos that others have taken better than I could, but there are some new ones, like praline bacon from Elizabeth's... which I will put up here.

Edited October 10, 2008 by mattohara (log)

[KatieLoeb]

...I'm not going to upload all the food pics here as many of them have been repeats of photos that others have taken better than I could, but there are some new ones, like praline bacon from Elizabeth's... which I will put up here....

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:drool:

I'm so there next trip...

[Daniel]

Awesome photos. Looks like you guys had a wonderful time..

[Sarabeth]

Great photos! It looks like you packed A LOT into two days!

I've never had a poboy at Elizabeth's so I'm curious to hear what you thought.

Glad you enjoyed yourselves!

S.

[Robert Peyton]

Great photos, looks like you did it right. Which is to say it looks like you had fun.

[mattohara]

Here goes! The image posting here is a huge pain so I'm limiting the food photos to stand-out dishes or ones that other people have not already posted their photos of. I won't bore you with stories of waking at 4am to head out by 5am to get to the airport, or stories of screaming babies or the Incredibly Snoring Man, who snored through takeoff AND landing. I won't even mention how Dick Cheney arrived at the same time we did and how that caused us, tired and starving, to be stuck in standstill traffic for 45 minutes while his motorcade escorted him from the airport. I won't even bore you by mentioning that Central Grocery is closed on Mondays, right when we got into town and desperately needed a quick bite. Chris McMillian's non-Monday, non-Tuesday schedule (the only nights we were in town) probably doesn't need to be mentioned either. The rain kept us well-watered and we love jumping over curbside puddles.

Instead I'll entertain you with all of the things that went right! After I got done spending 4 hours with a client (Karen got a spa day at the Hotel Monteleone's spa. I later got a massage at the same spa, highly recommended.), I came back to the hotel and met Karen. I got out of my ridiculous 3-piece suit and we headed out to Cochon.

1st Meal at Cochon:

Chicken Sausage over Sweet Potato (compliments of the house)

Wood-Fired Oyster Roast

Corn and Okra Fritter with Pickled Corn and Tomato Jam

Headcheese with Fried Pig's Ear

Fried Rabbit Livers with Mint and Pepper Jelly

Boudin with Pickled Peppers

Pork Cheeks with Grits

Fried Alligator with Chili Sauce

The Rabbit Livers were tops in both our books. I haven't had livers deep-fried with a crispy coating before. It gives it a great crunch before you get to the creamy liver texture. There was a hot (but not too hot) thin pepper jelly on the plate and that sweet and spicy component worked with the buttery liver flavor, but the addition of a huge mint leaf on every bite really just made this take off. I would gladly eat a whole plate of this for a meal.

I've had a number of different versions of headcheese. Usually some bits and pieces are a little harder or chewier than others and while I always enjoy it very much, it's never been very exciting. This headcheese managed to have a more uniform, smooth, silky, soft texture and just melts in the mouth. There was also a subtle seasoning that I can't put my finger on but that definitely elevated the dish. There was a delicious, perfectly dressed little salad on top with some deep-fried pigs' ears. This was far and away the best headcheese I've ever had.

The oysters were really great too. I can't remember how they were spiced/seasoned but they were huge and had a barely-cooked texture that was nice.

The next day started with Café du Monde. Then I headed to the spa and Karen walked around. Cochon advertises with my client, Sunshine Pages, and when I mentioned to them that Cochon was our first destination somebody pulled out a gift certificate! So that helped pay for lunch.

2nd Meal at Cochon:

The eponymous Cochon

Duck and Andouille Gumbo

Grilled Ribs with Pickled Watermelon Rind

I guess I'm just recently discovering a love for ribs. These weren't the kind that just drips off the bone, and that was fine by me. They had a great crispy outside and a nice beefy texture. I also now know that I'm going to pickle watermelon rind next year. I love how these people throw pickles at everything!

We had made reservations for lunch the night before when we were in for dinner. That's when we met Audrey, the awesome manager.

Cochon is a relaxed, comfortable restaurant that cares deeply about their food. Audrey kind of epitomizes this with her Fried Chicken tattoo. She came over to say hi and we talked for a while about this and that. She came back a few seconds later with some shots of moonshine to go with our rootbeer float.

err...sorry there wasn't anything in the glass there... We had to investigate the rootbeer jelly at the bottom of the glass..

We also had a Bloody Mary (with pickled okra) and a Mulefoot, a Dancing Outlaw, a Mayhaw Lemonade, some wine and some beer (between the two meals). The Dancing Outlaw was my fave. Karen and I have recently made tomato jam and pickled string beans ourselves so it was fun to see those things in the restaurant and to try pickled okra. Thanks Cochon!

We then stopped by Herbsaint looking for the spaghetti dish but unfortunately they don't serve it between lunch and dinner. They DO make a mean mint julep though. You'll notice the hand-crushed ice here:

and since we later found out that we wouldn't be able to get one from Chris, this drink turned out to be a really good idea.

and yes, the Sazerac here is ridunkulous. I'm going to figure out how to make them at home. Melisa (sp?) was really helpful and nice as well. She served up a pretty absinthe fountain to another guest.

Then we headed off to 2nd lunch. It was a cochon du lait Po'Boy and Gumbo at Café Masparo, right across the street from the hotel. It really could have been a meal at any restaurant in the city, we just wanted to try something else and it happened to be right across the streeet from the Napoleon House, where we had just sampled the famed Pimms Cups.

The drink is one of Karen's standbys, so while we enjoyed this one it didn't make her get all a gigglyagoo.

That meal I mentioned above is the only one I don't have pics of. No biggie.

For 1st Dinner we went to MiLa (I put the 3-piece back on). We were practically the only guests in the place so I didn't feel bad taking pics, but you'd think I could have gotten a better one of the foie gras terrine with pepper jelly (again with the pepper jelly!). Man this was something else. A dish we hadn't had in a while so we just went for it and were so glad we did.

The other star here was the Barbeque Lobster. It was very simply presented with some toast, some spicy sauce that I can't recall and a clove of roasted garlic. It was a slow-hitting dish. After we added the garlic it hit another dimension and just seemed to keep picking up steam while you were eating it and had a really long finish.

The deconstructed Oysters Rockefeller was sort of the same way. It doesn't blow you away out of the gates, but the light cream used in the poaching and the licorice jump up and slap you in the face a minute after you've finished one.

For 2nd Dinner we went back to Herbsaint for the Spaghetti and philadining's must-have Dirty Rice!

So yeah, the spaghetti, with guanciale and deep-fried poached egg. WHAT!? OFF THE HIZZLE! Karen says it's kind of like a carbonara but I can't really say as I know nothing of that kind of Italian food. Let's just say it was rich, creamy and decadent. And the bartender told us they add eggplant to the dirty rice but that can't be what makes it so good. This was our fifth meal of the day and we were stuffed to the gills but managed to make room for the Brown Butter Pecan Pie with Caramelized Bananas. I also tried a traditional Sazerac, made with Brandy instead of Rye and I really enjoyed that but I think Rye is more my speed.

At this point we were in physical pain. We wanted to go listen to some music and have a nightcap but we couldn't move when we got back to the hotel to change.

The next day was our last and we only had until 3:30 before we had to get to the airport. The sun finally came out and we took a cab up to Elizabeth's. We were the first people there at 11AM and we were starving. Our first course was Fried Oysters with Blue Cheese and Praline Bacon!

What a great start! The bacon was not hot, which says to me that their technique is to cook the bacon, let it cool off, then coat it with praline. WHATEVER, it was candy-coated bacon, and we were on vacation. 5$ for four slices.

Then we had an oyster/shrimp Po-Boy.

Mother's had a huge line when we went by so this was our only real chance beside the cochon du lait version at Masparo's. We really dug it. Throw some hot sauce on that bad boy and you've got it good. These are nice and overstuffed. Good thing we got there early because right after we got our food the place got packed in all of about 20 minutes.

We went back to the hotel and didn't have time or room for more food. Until we got to the airport. WHAT UP LUCKY DOG?

A nice cap on our too-short trip!

So we didn't get to go to one of the classic po'boy shops, but that's ok. I had two pretty good versions. We didn't get to Hansen's, but I used to work at a place like that. We didn't get a Chris McMillian Mint Julep but we did get a great Herbsaint version and a bunch of other great cocktails. We wish we had had more time but we got in what we could when and where we could. I did get a muffaletta that first day but from Café Beignet and I'm sure it's not *that* much different from the Central Grocery Version.

Thanks to everybody here for all the help and recommendations, thanks to Daniel for getting this thread going, thanks to everybody in all the restaurants. We had such a short time but we were really happy with how everything turned out and we really really really want to get back there as soon as possible. We found Hové and bought presents, we found Kitchen Witch and bought cookbooks. Thanks Holly Moore for being over at Cajun Kate's (which is still our favorite gumbo) and telling us about gumbo filé!

and also I've edited, tagged and titled all of the photos in the set I mentioned in the post above so there's plenty more pics if you want to go and comment. Please do! I have yet to geotag them all but I'll get there...

Edited October 13, 2008 by mattohara (log)

[docsconz]

Wow, you really packed it in! The rabbit livers and oysters were amongst my favorites at Cochon as well. I would hate to see your cholesterol and triglyceride levels after that trip! I know that I did not look at mine after I got back.

[KatieLoeb]

Matt:

You and Karen remain two of my favorite people. I love living vicariously through you. You did a whole lot of livin', eatin' and drinkin' in a very short span of time. Good on ya' both! I'm duly impressed. You hit several of my fave places and a few I haven't gotten to yet, but will be all over next time. Thanks for the reconnaissance. Well done!

[zoe b]

Well, I'm reading and printing this thread and getting more & more excited--we'll be in the City from Nov 6-11--staying at my sister's little apt in the Warehouse District.

So thanks for all the info above--if we manage to hit half of the places talked about they won't let us on the plane to go home!

We want to eat lots, and listen to great music and just generally BE in New Orleans.

Any suggestions on a good guide ? We'll have enough time to do a little exploring and add a little Culcher to the experience--I know this is OT so ignore it if you want.

Zoe

[mattohara]

if you're in the warehouse district cochon and herbsaint and MiLa are pretty close to you!

[docsconz]

Well, I'm reading and printing this thread and getting more & more excited--we'll be in the City from Nov 6-11--staying at my sister's little apt in the Warehouse District.

So thanks for all the info above--if we manage to hit half of the places talked about they won't let us on the plane to go home!

We want to eat lots, and listen to great music and just generally BE in New Orleans.

Any suggestions on a good guide ?  We'll have enough time to do a little exploring and add a little Culcher to the experience--I know this is OT so ignore it if you want.

Zoe

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You should definitely hit the food and Cocktail Museums located together within the River Walk Complex. IMO, they are currently the only reason to go in there, but they are worth it.

[Holly Moore]

Cajun Kate's (which is still our favorite gumbo)

Mine too. Granted Don has four years in as saucier and then sous chef at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA, but can his gumbo really be as good as any found in the New Orleans?

If I were to be passing through New Orleans in early November, where might I pause for a worthy comparison?

Edited to add: painfully alluring pics throughout this thread.

Edited October 13, 2008 by Holly Moore (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Cajun Kate's (which is still our favorite gumbo)

Mine too. Granted Don has four years in as saucier and then sous chef at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA, but can his gumbo really be as good as any found in the New Orleans?

If I were to be passing through New Orleans in early November, where might I pause for a worthy comparison?

Edited to add: painfully alluring pics throughout this thread.

←

I remember some pretty respectable gumbo to be had at Mother's. It wasn't as high falutin' as Cajun Kate's - no smoked brisket or duck - but it was as good as any I've had before or since for the basics. The Old Coffee Pot had a very tasty gumbo also, as I recall from my July 2007 trip to NOLA. Those would be my recommedations for a comparison, but I'm certain the locals can do better.

[philadining]

Re Gumbo.

If I were to be passing through New Orleans in early November, where might I pause for a worthy comparison?

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There are a bazillion places that are very proud of their gumbo, and I'll leave it to locals to suggest some of the "best" (I doubt you'll get a consensus!)

But you certainly should consider Lil' Dizzy's, Dookie Chase, Cochon and Herbsaint.

I really like Don's gumbos at Cajun Kate's, and I think they compare very well to the ones I had in New Orleans. But I think you'll find some in New Orleans that might turn your head...

[zoe b]

if you're in the warehouse district cochon and herbsaint and MiLa are pretty close to you!

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yes, I was thrilled to realize this!

docscons said

"You should definitely hit the food and Cocktail Museums located together within the River Walk Complex. IMO, they are currently the only reason to go in there, but they are worth it."

Good, we now have a respectable excuse for being there--of course we will do it--but now we don't have to feel like total tourists--we can be knowledgeable tourists--hehe.

And i'm interested in hearing more about gumbo.....

Zoe

[Holly Moore]

Time for Parkway Bakery and Tavern to make it to this thread.

Roast Beef and Gravy Po'Boy, dressed (lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo).

All po'boys come wrapped to go. Once unwrapped it may not be as pretty as a plated po'boy, but damn good eating.

Parkway's original menu, way back when

Edited December 12, 2008 by Holly Moore (log)

[Holly Moore]

Cajun Kate's (which is still our favorite gumbo)

Mine too. Granted Don has four years in as saucier and then sous chef at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA, but can his gumbo really be as good as any found in the New Orleans?

If I were to be passing through New Orleans in early November, where might I pause for a worthy comparison?

Edited to add: painfully alluring pics throughout this thread.

←

OK, a question on Gumbo's. So far I've had two this trip to New Orleans - Seafood gumbo from Casamento's and turkey and alligator sausage from Parkway. These were ok, but totally different from Cajun Kates in PA. Both were in a broth, and more like soups. Totally different from Cajun Kates, which is much richer and complex.

Is this lighter, broth-like base representative of the gumbos I'll find in New Orleans, or does it just depend on where in New Orleans that I order my gumbo?

Edit: Maybe answering my own questions. Gumbos are either thickened with okra or file. Both the ones I've had so far in New Orleans had okra.

Edited December 13, 2008 by Holly Moore (log)

[Mayhaw Man]

Cajun Kate's (which is still our favorite gumbo)

Mine too. Granted Don has four years in as saucier and then sous chef at Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA, but can his gumbo really be as good as any found in the New Orleans?

If I were to be passing through New Orleans in early November, where might I pause for a worthy comparison?

Edited to add: painfully alluring pics throughout this thread.

←

OK, a question on Gumbo's. So far I've had two this trip to New Orleans - Seafood gumbo from Casamento's and turkey and alligator sausage from Parkway. These were ok, but totally different from Cajun Kates in PA. Both were in a broth, and more like soups. Totally different from Cajun Kates, which is much richer and complex.

Is this lighter, broth-like base representative of the gumbos I'll find in New Orleans, or does it just depend on where in New Orleans that I order my gumbo?

Edit: Maybe answering my own questions. Gumbos are either thickened with okra or file. Both the ones I've had so far in New Orleans had okra.

←

Why am I never in town when you are? Hell, I would make you the real thing.

Gumbo is a soup. I like it that way. The roux, used to thicken and flavor, is an enhancement. When you get a gumbo that's thick like glue, you might enjoy it, but it's not what you might commonly find in NOLA or South La. The game here is that you don't want to overwhelm the ingredients that, especially in the case of seafood gumbo, you paid alot of money for. A good gumbo should be a balance, not an example of one flavor dominating the rest.

Call up Dooky Chase and see if they are open tonight or tomorrow. Get a bowl of "Gumbo Z'Herbes" and a bowl of seafood (and chicken and sausage if Leah has it on the menu). You'll get a range of great stuff in a really historical locale.

Have a great trip. You scored on the weather today. Really nice.

Best,

B

[Holly Moore]

Alas Dooky Chase is only open Tuesday thru Friday - any other suggestions?

Had another po-boy today. Domilise's this time. So good.

Started off at Cafe Du Monde. Beignets and cafe late of course. Their kitchen is in the back with a big window looking in. Tried taking pics last year, but all I got was glare. Called ahead this time and they hunted down the key to unlock the window.

[Holly Moore]

Linen napkins and syrup pourers filled with melted butter. My kind of joint, The Camellia Grill is.

. ..

One of the best pecan waffles going, too.

[Sarabeth]

Sorry I missed you, Holly! But, I'm glad that you had a great trip!