Cheap eats/inexpensive restaurants

[John Talbott]

Rumaging in my piles of old Figaroscope's I just came across this article on couscous places in Paris. Enjoy!

[phaelon56]

Thanks to John and all the rest of you for this wealth of references - I have my work cut out for me. It appears that my plan of about 100 Euros per day with the assumption that the exchange rate will still be at or near 80 US cents per Euro is going to work. I don't drink alcohol and my beloved rarely has more than a glass of wine once a day. Apart from the birthday splurge we should do nicely. Tha challenge will be figuring out which places we can miss!

A kind soul PM'd me to recommend a place where the beef bourgignon was/is particularly good (based on his experience although he mentioend that little else at that restaurant was notable). If anyone can think of a few specific places where two relatively inexperienced diners might best experience a few of the staple classic dishes it will be appreciated. I'm thinking along the lines of escargots, coq au vin etc - sort of old-timey simple dishes that perhaps I've tried in the US but have most likely been a pale imitation of the original.

Edited to add: I appreciate all the links that have been provided but it's been over thirty years since my last high school French class - I'll brush up a bit with some conversational French study tapes or CD's before the trip but anticipate stumbling through conversation with a lack of grace.

Edited August 27, 2004 by phaelon56 (log)

[Cleo]

You MUST go to L'As du Fallafel  (34, rue des Rosiers, in the heart of the Marais).

Another vote for lunch here! It's delicious!

[John Talbott]

If anyone can think of a few specific places where two relatively inexperienced diners might best experience a few of the staple classic dishes it will be appreciated.  I'm thinking along the lines of escargots, coq au vin etc - sort of old-timey simple dishes that perhaps I've tried in the US but have most likely been a pale imitation of the original.

There's another book Gourmet Paris by Emmanuel Rubin of Le Figaro in English published by Flammarion that has every possible dish you could want - from Andouillette to Truffles. It's at amazon.fr

Gourmet Paris: What to Eat Where, Dish by Dish (27 novembre 2001) de Emmanuel Rubin -- Broché

EUR 13,30 Disponible en 6 jours

In addition, the Red Michelin lists "the plate that you seek" pages 33-35 (1141-3) in the 2004 edition.

I'd suggest you consult both these, plus Google what you seek and triangulate the lot (myself I like Chez Rene 14 bd St-Germain (01.43.54.30.23) in the 5th for Coq au vin and L'Escargot Montorgueil, 38 rue Montorgueil in the 1st (01.42.36.83.51) for escargots, unless you're staying in a flat, in which case buy them from L'Escargot de la Butte in Montmartre and cook them at home. Whoever told you that one-dish restaurants often fall down elsewhere was correct too, unfortunately, so you probably should find a place that does have both the dish and a decent general reputation.

Your teetottling will expand the number of places you can eat at to stay under 100 too.

Don't sweat the French capacity; if you try to connect with even horribly pronounced "Bonjour, Au voir, Excusez moi de vous deranger, Je ne parle pas francais," they're most forgiving and in restaurants there's usually if not always a designated speaker; it's their business after all. I think what burns the French and me for that matter is making no attempt to learn even a few phrases and blustering forth with a loud aggressive "I'm an American and rule the world" attitude. On the other hand, do brush up anyway, it staves off the Alzheimer's.

In addition, guidebooks in French are easier to translate than Proust because you know the basic rules of a review.

[DRColby]

Your project is somewhat echoed in tomorrow's NYT travel section with separate articles about the Left and Right banks and getting by -totally- on $100 EU a day. There are some pretty good suggestions.

dave

[bleudauvergne]

NYTimes Left Bank Article Here

NYTimes Right Bank Article Here

[Poppy Quince]

For Moroccan couscous, I've been very happy for years with the version offered at La Table de Fes on rue de Sainte-Beuve in Montparnasse.

[little ms foodie]

A family owned restaraunt I like is Chez Rene 14, boulevard Saint-Germain - Paris 75005 Subway : Maubert-Mutualite. this little bistro does up all the classics but isn't ramped towards the tourists. When my mom and I ate there twice in the same week we became "regulars" and were seated near the families attorny and dentist! Very large portions, wonderful family and excellent food! Dinner for 2 with a few glasses of wine about 80E

Have fun!

edited to correct that both of these are more in the Latin quarter but are very easy metro stops away from you and well worth it!

I'm quoting myself for the classics. Have had the beef bourgignon and the coq au vin here and thought both were wonderful

[Ptipois]

I went to a one with a Japanese friend where we had big bowls of noodle soup and she was in heaven saying it was just like home.  I can't remember the name of it (cause it's in Japanese), but it's a little hole in the wall sort of place that's on the left side as you walk north on rue Sainte Anne going toward the Opera.

This really sounds like Naniwa-Ya on rue Saint-Anne. The description just fits. A friend of mine even went there with a Japanese friend who wiped a tear at the corner of his eye, saying: "Oh, it's just like Tokyo!

[Ptipois]

For couscous I'd propose the upscale but delicious L'Atlas, 12 bd St-Germain, in the 5th, 01.46.33.86.98 altho the Etoile Marocaine in the 8th, 56, rue de Galilee is a phenom because it's open every day of the year including all holidays.

I completely agree about L'Atlas, where I always had delicious meals. I've never been to L'Etoile Marocaine. A good couscous is a very good thing indeed.

I can add a few good couscous places and areas to the list (because there are couscous areas too!):

- Le 404, rue des Gravilliers, 3th (the original Momo - Mourad Mazouz - place, the one he opened when he wasn't a star yet. Fortunately it's still going on, unchanged.)

- Le Petit Cahoua, boulevard Saint-Marcel (13th). Well-prepared Moroccan fare. Try the Pastilla au lait (a dessert).

- Le Pied de Chameau, near the Beaubourg cultural center. Untested by me, but heard nice things about it.

- Many Jewish-Tunisian places around the Folies-Bergère (9th) and the rue Richer/Faubourg-Montmartre area. Most are pretty good. Jewish-Tunisian couscous is special: very plentiful, coarse grain, sometimes served with nice gooey Shabbath stews like arissa or pkaila. Highlight: Chez Chalomé and La Boule Rouge. A word of caution: what makes Tunisian couscous special is what comes before it. Kemia, an assortment of small but very rich hors-d'oeuvres, will be placed on your table before the meal starts getting serious. If you're not very careful, it may get serious when you're no longer hungry.

- Other Jewish-Tunisian places on Boulevard de La Villette. My favorite (and, as you may find, a lot of peoples' favorite too): Chez René et Gabin.

- Back to Muslim-style couscous with my personal favorite of all times (watch out, hole-in-the-wall place!): Chez Hamadi/Le Boute-Grill, rue Boutebrie (5th, near the beautiful Saint-Séverin church which you should visit by all means). Very simple but extremely good. You'll find out. Don't miss the lamb-chop couscous. Tunisian-style couscous : fine-textured "red" grain, a little tomato in the meat and vegetable stock.

- In the same category (hole-in-the-wall, but definitely cozier), La Mitidja has been on rue Lacépède (5th, near the Jardin des Plantes) for ages. Simple, superior quality. Algerian-style couscous: fine "white" grain, lots of vegetables in the stock, lamb chops are skewered on two pieces of wire that looks like twisted coat hangers, then broiled and brought to your table just as they are, while the owner slams a big brick of butter on your red-and-white checkered tablecloth. Absolutely delicious. Cheap. Owner not young = I'm dreading the day this place will close.

- Overexpensive, slightly overhyped but hey, Fatema Hal can really cook, and she knows about food. Refined Moroccan cuisine - easily the most refined and fragrant in Paris - at Mansouria, rue Faidherbe (11th).

There are many more. Indeed, there are many couscous restaurants in Paris. Most of them are OK. I've never had uninteresting couscous in Paris yet, except in a very posh and expensive place I won't reveal the name of here. I tend to believe that the best couscous is to be found in the most simple places.

Oh, by all means - stay away from the restaurant at the Great Mosque, La Mosquée de Paris (5th, right next to the Jardin des Plantes). In spite of many changes of management, this restaurant never was good and probably never will be.

[Ptipois]

And much as I hate to disagree with my mentor Bux, I had a great meal alone at Aux Lyonnais followed by a disappointing one for four of us.

That might be easily explained. I went to Aux Lyonnais when Jean-François Piège was in charge. The restaurant had been recently taken over by Ducasse, who had put JFP at the commands. The food was wonderful. Then JFP left Ducasse (not in very good terms it seems) and went to Le Crillon. I went again to Aux Lyonnais since then (late June) and the place had plummeted. The bread was dry, the dishes uninteresting, some of them sloppily made, but the prices had, of course, remained at their original heights.

[John Whiting]

A family owned restaraunt I like is Chez Rene 14, boulevard Saint-Germain - Paris 75005 . . .  Have had the beef bourgignon  and the coq au vin here and thought both were wonderful

I have serious problems with this place. I went with a friend; one of us had the coq au vin and the other the boeuf bourgignon. They each came in the same thick black sauce, unpleasantly pungent, ladled out of a cauldron. It was obvious that the the meats had been added to each after they were cooked; they had neither the color nor the flavor they would have had if the sauce had been produced by the actual process of cooking the meat. It was rather the effect one gets in inferior Indian restaurants where all the sauces and the meats are cooked separately and then combined to order.

[Bux]

And much as I hate to disagree with my mentor Bux, I had a great meal alone at Aux Lyonnais followed by a disappointing one for four of us.

That might be easily explained. I went to Aux Lyonnais when Jean-François Piège was in charge. The restaurant had been recently taken over by Ducasse, who had put JFP at the commands. The food was wonderful. Then JFP left Ducasse (not in very good terms it seems) and went to Le Crillon. I went again to Aux Lyonnais since then (late June) and the place had plummeted. The bread was dry, the dishes uninteresting, some of them sloppily made, but the prices had, of course, remained at their original heights.

A 28€ prix fixe menu didn't seem so high. In fact, it seemed very low for the quality offered in October 2003. I thought Christophe Saintagne was the chef there. I understand he may have been Piège's protegé, but it seems hard to believe Piège was spending full time in the kitchen. It's hard to keep with the latest news as most sites don't have dates on their pages. Somewhere, I saw the name David Rathgeber appearing as chef. It's quite possible he's a replacement for Saintagne. It will be a pity if the quality has plumetted as I've invited a couple of my daughter's friends to join us for lunch there.

[Felice]

I went again to Aux Lyonnais since then (late June) and the place had plummeted.

Eek, I'm going to Aux Lyonnaise tonight

My 2004 Pudlow guide says that Christophe Saintagne is now the chef and they have deemed it bistro of the year, so I hope things have improved since June. I guess I'll find out.

[Le Zouave]

If you like cheap ethnic food head to the Rue Sainte Anne where you'll find lots of little Japanese restaurants. I went to a one with a Japanese friend where we had big bowls of noodle soup and she was in heaven saying it was just like home. I can't remember the name of it (cause it's in Japanese), but it's a little hole in the wall sort of place that's on the left side as you walk north on rue Sainte Anne going toward the Opera.

That one sounds like Kunitoraya: nice noodles indeed, and very cheap. Not far away from that one, you can also have some fine yakitori at Yasube.

[Le Zouave]

Bux, you're right. Christophe Saitagne isn't at the Lyonnais anymore: he now works at the Plaza with Piege.

[Le Zouave]

I went to a one with a Japanese friend where we had big bowls of noodle soup and she was in heaven saying it was just like home.  I can't remember the name of it (cause it's in Japanese), but it's a little hole in the wall sort of place that's on the left side as you walk north on rue Sainte Anne going toward the Opera.

This really sounds like Naniwa-Ya on rue Saint-Anne. The description just fits. A friend of mine even went there with a Japanese friend who wiped a tear at the corner of his eye, saying: "Oh, it's just like Tokyo!

Ptipois ir right... That might also be Naniwa-ya -- although my other guess, Kunitoraya, sounds correct too. Naniwa-ya is a small place, packed with japanese. I usally eat at the counter, some gyoza ravioli and cold udon noodles. (And the small octupus balls are great too: what do they call that? Takoyaki?) Big problem, though: it's almost impossible to understand what's written on the menus. You do have a french menu, but the specials are not translated: bring a japanese friend!

[Ptipois]

but it seems hard to believe Piège was spending full time in the kitchen.

Of course he wasn't spending full time there, but believe me, he was holding it with a, er, firm hand. And seemed very proud of the place at its opening, considered it "his baby" somehow.

Now Aux Lyonnais (without his iron hand hovering over it) may have ups and downs, if not downs and downs, but the lunch I had there in June 2004 was the unmistakeable sign that downs were not an unusual occurrence.

That reminds me of that famous quote by Bocuse. When asked by a journalist: "Who does the cooking when you're not around?" He replied: "The same guy as when I'm around."

[Ptipois]

I went again to Aux Lyonnais since then (late June) and the place had plummeted.

Eek, I'm going to Aux Lyonnaise tonight

My 2004 Pudlow guide says that Christophe Saintagne is now the chef and they have deemed it bistro of the year, so I hope things have improved since June. I guess I'll find out.

Please keep us posted, and you may have a great meal there, I hope you do. Also it would be a pity to see a place that had started so well go down the drain.

[dellis453]

My daughter is celebrating her birthday (24) in Paris for 4 days with her boyfried in November. She is on a tight budget. She's staying near Gare du Nord.

It's ages since I have been to Paris, and am not sure where to suggest she should go. Could you recommend places to eat? Would she better eating at lunchtime? She loves all sorts of food and eats practically anything.

Very many thanks

[John Talbott]

My daughter is celebrating her birthday (24) in Paris for 4 days with her boyfried in November. She is on a tight budget. She's staying near Gare du Nord.

It's ages since I have been to Paris, and am not sure where to suggest she should go. Could you recommend places to eat? Would she better eating at lunchtime? She loves all sorts of food and eats practically anything.

Very many thanks

←

At 24 she can get anywhere in Paris from the Gare du Nord in well under 45 minutes. Chez Casimir, not far away, offers good eats at 25-30 E. But I would strongly urge her to research prior threads - for instance here- on reasonable meals and go wherever.

[John DePaula]

Here are some suggestions, dellis, from my list of favorites. They are all moderate to inexpensive with the last two the least expensive of the lot. Just depends on the kind of place for which you are looking. All of these are not too far from Montparnasse. Enjoy!

1. C'est Mon Plaisir Small, bright, sunny feel, updated cuisine that is not too heavy and not too expensive, and relatively quiet but by no means dead when full. Staff is comfortable with English-speakers -- the Brits somehow got this one on their map, and neighborhood folks love it too. They make a grilled shrimp dish with Colombo d'Epinards that was the best spinich dish I've ever eaten. Reservations recommended.

8 rue Falguière 75015

Metro: Falguiere

Tel. 01 42 73 07 02

2. Les Dix Vins Excellent wines & plats. Run by two former software engineers who decided to go to culinary school. More interesting traditional menu than most. Quite good. Reservations recommended.

57 rue Falguière, 75015 Paris

Tel: 01 43 20 91 77. Metro: Pasteur

Call to check their hours; we think it was not open on Saturdays or Sundays.

3. Le Florimond Older and slightly more upscale, excellent fish and, on our one occasion there, a great example of proper French wait service; may not be the most “fun” place for a 24 year old.

19, Avenue de La Motte-Picquet 75007

Metro: Le Motte-Picquet Grenelle

Tel. 01 45 55 40 38

4. Baribal Very traditional, not too dark, very lively and can be rather smoky-- no barrier for nonsmoking section -- neighborhood place with the best Pommes Sarladaise (sliced potatoes fried crisp in duck fat with mushrooms) we had anywhere outside of a private kitchen in Dordogne. Wait staff is overworked, so be patient and, if necessary, politely assertive.

186, Rue Vaugirard 75015

Metro: Volontaires or Pasteur

Tel. : +(33) 1 47 34 15 32

5. Le Karibou Excellent African food; very spicy for France; very friendly staff and chef, casual. Must try: Poulet Fume Yassa.

32 boulevard Vaugirard (actually it's in Galerie Vaugirard, just off Blvd. Vaugirard)

75015 Paris 15

Tél : 01 43 20 19 49

[Carlsbad]

I'm not sure how tight the budget is. There are many very good places that are not expensive. If they avoid the overpriced breakfast at the hotel, the budget gets easier. Lunch is a good bet at many places, but it is also easy to have picnic lunches (or dinners after a big lunch) quite inexpensively and then have dinner, or vice versa. Possibilites:

Le Clos Des Gourmets, 16 Ave Rapp, 7th, Tel. 01 45 51 75 61, Metro: Ecole Militaire, Menus 29E Lunch, 33E Dinner, Closed Sun. & Mon. If you stick to the menu, it's not expensive, and it seems as if it should cost a lot more.

Mon Vieil Ami, 69 rue St-Louis-en-l'Ile, 4th, Metro: Pont Marie, Tel. 01 40 46 01 35, 28E lunch, 38E Dinner, Closed Tues. Lunch & Mon., Great location on the Ile St-Louis; Modern Alsatian cuisine. Loved this place so much we returned.

Le Pamphlet, 38 rue Debelleyme, 3rd, Tel. 01 42 72 39 24, Metro: Filles du Calvaire, Menus 30/45E, Closed Sat. & Mon. Lunch & Sun, Traditional Cuisine.

Perraudin, 157 rue St-Jacques, 5th, Student bistro with easy prices and large portions of good bistro food. Haven't been there in a few years.

Casaluna, 6 rue de Beaujolais, 1st, Tel. 01 42 60 05 11, Metro Palais Royale, Lunch formula 15E, Corsican, in the Palais Royale, striking interior. Another M. Talbott recommendation, and we really enjoyed it for lunch.

Cosi, 54 rue de Seine, 6th, Tel. 01 46 33 35 36, Great sandwiches to eat upstairs or to take away. Inexpensive.

Avant Gout, already mentioned by M. Talbott, 26 rue Bobillot, 13th, Tel. 01 53 80 24 00, Place d'Italie, 14E Lunch, Dinner 28/40E, Closed Sat., Sun. & Mon., Modern Bistro, Picnic & wine available in shop across street. Sounded great to me- didn't make it.

Café Constant, 133 rue St-Dominique, 7th, Metro: Ecole Militaire, 1sts 7E, Main 11E, Dessert 6E, all at lunch or dinner, Closed Sun. & Mon. lunch; No reservations.

Le Pre Verre, 8 rue Thénard, 5th, Tel. 01 43 54 59 47, Metro: Maubert Mutualité, Menus12E Lunch, 25E Dinner, Jazz Theme. Closed Sunday, and either Sat or Monday (more likely) lunch. Didn't make it.

Les Pipos 2, Rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique, 5th, Maubert/Mutualité Metro, lunch or off-hour wine, near Pantheon, Friday night accordian music, Open 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m., closed Sunday. Youthful.

Edited October 15, 2005 by Carlsbad (log)

[menton1]

My daughter is celebrating her birthday (24) in Paris for 4 days with her boyfried in November. She is on a tight budget. She's staying near Gare du Nord.

It's ages since I have been to Paris, and am not sure where to suggest she should go. Could you recommend places to eat? Would she better eating at lunchtime? She loves all sorts of food and eats practically anything.

Very many thanks

←

One thing that's very easy to do in Paris is eat! Just a simple stroll and you will pass scores of restaurants. The menu is always posted in the window or on the street, by law. There may also be a "tableau noir" with the plats du jour. (Daily specials). Just observe, look for a place without tourists, no English on the menu, and a cuisine and price and ambience that suits you. About 99% of the time you should have a good meal. This, after all, is Paris.

Edited October 15, 2005 by menton1 (log)

[RoyK]

My wife and I are going to Paris at the end of this month, January 2006, for a brief 5 day honeymoon. I've been there a number of times but this will be my wife's first visit. My personal preference is for good food and reasonable wine lists. Given the large selection of dining options, I'd like to avoid places where the food is great, but the wine list is overpriced. Also, I'd like to go to 1 great place for lunch.

We're somewhat on a budget and so I've cashed in miles and points to get us there as well as for lodgings at the Renaissance Paris Vendome in the 1st arrondisement. Based on the wonderful recommendations on the board, I've tentatively decided on the following strategy.

1. Go to 1 all out lunch at a 2 or 3 star restaurant. I'm deciding between Bristol, Le Cinq, Hotel Meurice, and Taillevant. I'm definitely open to other suggestions as well.

2. Go to wine bars such as Fish, Wadja, La Muse Vin, L'Enoteca and Willi's Wine Bar for dinners.

3. Go to 1 nice dinner at one of the following:

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

L'Atelier Maitre Albert

Le Petit Colombier

Aux Lyonnais

L‘ANGLE DU FAUBOURG

Ze Kitchen Gallery

Cosi

Le Pre Verre

Spoon

Vin de Zinc (Le)

404

Metro Arts et Metiers

Le mechoui du Prince

La Plancha

Cafe marly

metro charonnne

Le Bouchons de Francois Clerc

Bistrot du Sommelier

Au Bourguignon-du-Marais

4. Go to ethnic restaurants/food stands in the Marais, etc. for cheap lunches.

5. Spend 1 day in Epernay/Reims. I used to be in the wine business and have some great friends that have set us up with some private tours.

All suggestions, criticism and advice are very welcome.

Cheers,

Roy