"Choice Confections" and English Toffee

[Josho]

After Kerry's marvelous explanation of the making of molasses honeycomb chips, I was moved to wreck my cookbook budget for the next few months and pick up "Choice Confections" by Walter Richmond. (Well, okay, I also picked up Morimoto's cookbook.)

Although I've only had a few hours to glance through it, it brought up a couple of questions I have for experienced candymakers...regarding English Toffee.

First, he talks about adding "Baker's Special Sugar" to the mix to start the graining. Now, I'm confused about this ingredient. Some sites refer to it as basically superfine sugar (so I'm thinking Domino's superfine will do the trick). Others seem to list Baker's Special Sugar as being a coarser grade than superfine, so I'm wondering if superfine will work. I would think so, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this.

Second, he talks about aging the toffee for a week before selling it.

I'm wondering if this will accomplish what's been my "holy grail" of English Toffee since I started making it: creating a toffee that doesn't stick to your teeth when you chew it. It seems to me that much commercial toffee doesn't stick to your teeth; it somehow seems a little "drier" when it's chewed. My homemade toffee, which always gets eaten in a few days, tends to stick when chewed. I'm pretty sure I've got the temperature right, so I've been thinking it's a matter of ingredients...but Choice Confections has me wondering if it's a matter of age instead.

--Josh

[Kerry Beal]

After Kerry's marvelous explanation of the making of molasses honeycomb chips, I was moved to wreck my cookbook budget for the next few months and pick up "Choice Confections" by Walter Richmond. (Well, okay, I also picked up Morimoto's cookbook.)

Although I've only had a few hours to glance through it, it brought up a couple of questions I have for experienced candymakers...regarding English Toffee.

First, he talks about adding "Baker's Special Sugar" to the mix to start the graining. Now, I'm confused about this ingredient. Some sites refer to it as basically superfine sugar (so I'm thinking Domino's superfine will do the trick). Others seem to list Baker's Special Sugar as being a coarser grade than superfine, so I'm wondering if superfine will work. I would think so, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this.

Second, he talks about aging the toffee for a week before selling it.

I'm wondering if this will accomplish what's been my "holy grail" of English Toffee since I started making it: creating a toffee that doesn't stick to your teeth when you chew it. It seems to me that much commercial toffee doesn't stick to your teeth; it somehow seems a little "drier" when it's chewed. My homemade toffee, which always gets eaten in a few days, tends to stick when chewed. I'm pretty sure I've got the temperature right, so I've been thinking it's a matter of ingredients...but Choice Confections has me wondering if it's a matter of age instead.

--Josh

←

I'm sure superfine would be a good substitute for Baker's Special.

Aging helps with the graining of the toffee and grained toffee may not have quite the 'stickjaw' of ungrained, but I think there are other factors preventing the stick to your teeth. Mostly the addition of fat.

[Kerry Beal]

Where did you order your copy of Choice Confections from?

[Josho]

Hi, Kerry,

Many thanks for the reply...I'll be attempting one of the CC recipes this weekend. (I'm also going to try his recipe for Molasses Chips -- they're not honeycombed, but he speaks so highly of them...)

I ordered the book from GOMC.COM, and it was $75. Great service; I ordered it on Monday and received it on Wednesday. The other sources were all asking for $100 or more.

--Josh

[Kerry Beal]

Hi, Kerry,

Many thanks for the reply...I'll be attempting one of the CC recipes this weekend. (I'm also going to try his recipe for Molasses Chips -- they're not honeycombed, but he speaks so highly of them...)

I ordered the book from GOMC.COM, and it was $75. Great service; I ordered it on Monday and received it on Wednesday. The other sources were all asking for $100 or more.

--Josh

←

Just who I was going to suggest!!

Can't wait to hear how things turn out.

[Josho]

Kerry,

Before I make the Molasses Chips (it's formula 263 in Richmond's book, BTW), I have a question. He says, in part:

"Place on spinning table. Shape batch so that it is smooth on the top and bottom surfaces. Spin out and cut on continuous cutter..."

I'm wondering about the spinning table and "spinning out" he refers to. I'm unfamiliar with this equipment and what spinning out means. Are you familiar with this? Is it something I can duplicate at home?

Josh

[mrose]

Kerry,

Before I make the Molasses Chips (it's formula 263 in Richmond's book, BTW), I have a question. He says, in part:

"Place on spinning table. Shape batch so that it is smooth on the top and bottom surfaces. Spin out and cut on continuous cutter..."

I'm wondering about the spinning table and "spinning out" he refers to. I'm unfamiliar with this equipment and what spinning out means. Are you familiar with this? Is it something I can duplicate at home?

Josh

←

Do you feel that the Choice Confections book is worth the $75?

[Josho]

Hi, Mark,

Well, I haven't made anything from it yet (this weekend will be my first forays). I'll know more about whether or not I feel I've made a good investment after I've tried some of the recipes I'm anxious to make.

But I'll say this: it's certainly the most COMPREHENSIVE, by far, of all the candy books I've got. Over 350 recipes covering just about every conceivable candy and filling (although you won't find newer flavors in here...the book's from 1954 and the tastes reflect it...no bergamot or earl grey tea!).

Also, the recipes are clearly written with commercial sales in mind. Most of the recipes I'm looking at will have to be scaled down (shouldn't be a problem). Then again, if I was making candy for a bake sale, no problem...

Just thought of something to add: there are no photos in the book, so if you're looking for that kind of cookbook, this isn't it. It's very cut-and-dried.

--Josh

Edited September 29, 2007 by Josho (log)

[mukki]

Just a thought -- does your toffee recipe contain any baking soda? I use David Lebovitz's buttercrunch toffee recipe (which is the best I've had) and it doesn't stick to your teeth. The small bit of soda aerates the candy which makes it a lighter and less sticky.

[Kerry Beal]

Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I was driving up to Manitoulin today.

I think the spinning table refers to the mechanical device used in a big manufacturing facility to pull the candy (and keep it warm while working). We are going to pull by hand or using a hook for the initial pull he talks about, then incorporate the air, stretch and cut a number of times, laying each tube beside or on top of the others, then cut it in some way when we are finished.