My California Culinary Pilgrimage (Apr. 2007)

[rjwong]

My California Culinary Pilgrimage (Apr. 2007):

Manresa, French Laundry, Chez Panisse ... parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme ...

Having enjoyed several recent vacations to Las Vegas, I think it’s time for a change. I was thinking of traveling to New York City. Yes, I was going to give NEW YORK, NEW YORK a chance. I was starting my research, and then, I saw the price of hotel rooms in Manhattan. That ended that, for now. I’m going to have to have a New York state of mind before I go on a NYC vacation. So, where else should I go?

As a native Californian, I must admit that I haven’t eaten much over in the Bay Area and Napa/Sonoma region, except for SF Chinatown when I was a kid. After reading various discussion threads in the California forum, I’ve been developing a desire, a longing to eat at certain restaurants that have been and/or are doing marvelous culinary work. Instead of just a vacation to Napa, Sonoma and the Bay Area, this is more of a California culinary pilgrimage for the culinary devout.

On this pilgrimage, I’ll be traveling and dining mostly by myself. Mind you, on two occasions, I’ll be having dinner with a fellow eGer. I hope to meet other eGers as well during this time. Nevertheless, I’m very comfortable dining alone ... Focusing on each course, observing the restaurant’s decor, notice the waitstaff & their interaction with other diners, internalizing the entire dining experience, and not being plagued with questions from dining companions. Just me and my meal. And besides, Food and I, we go way back ...

Here are some destination points during my pilgrimage:

Manresa:

I knew I had to go there when I heard Manresa referred to as “The French Laundry South”. More recently, I read the comments about the Passard dinners. Yes, it was time to make a reservation ro Manresa. Mind you, I didn’t. An eGer from the Bay Area made the arrangements, and I’m thankful for that. Hopefully, my expectations won’t be too high and/or unrealistic. I’ll just try to enjoy my dining experience.

Farmers’ Market at the Ferry Building:

I’ll be interested to compare this farmers’ market with the ones in Southern California.

Chez Panisse:

Of all of the places I’ll be visiting, eating at Chez Panisse will truly be a pilgrimage to me. Alice Waters, IMO, is one of the most influential culinary personalities of the second-half of the 20th century.

French Laundry:

I won! I won! I won! What did you win? I won a reservation at the French Laundry! I was recounting my adventures in getting a reservation at TFL to one of my chef/friends. He was discouraging me not to go. He ate there. He gave his reasons. I replied how I wanted to find out for myself what the French Laundry is like. I realize it is my choice and there are no guarantees with any restaurant, even “perfect” restaurants. He conceded that point. BTW, I did get a little help from my friend in Berkeley. He’s in the biz and knows a few people. I’m grateful for his efforts. And we’ll be enjoying ourselves at the French Laundry.

Redd:

Once I recover from my dinner at TFL, I’ll have Sunday brunch at Redd. People highly recommended this casual place to me. And a friend from LA made a reservation for me. He knows a few people too. I appreciate knowing people in the restaurant business. They go through so much, ehh?? People in the restaurant business, that is ...

General’s Daughter:

I’m going to this Sonoma restaurant for obvious reasons. Perhaps not so obvious ... The General’s Daughter is highly recommended by several eGulleteers, including the late Bruce Frigard (aka winesonoma). I never met him personally, just through the eG forums. You might think it strange, but I want to go to Bruce’s favorite restaurant to pay my respects ... Also, the chef there is also an eGer, and I might as well find out if the food is any good or not. Just because someone is an eGullet member doesn’t mean he gets automatic shilling. Chef, you have to earn your reviews ... for a price ... under the table

Pardon me. For some reason, my tongue was firmly planted in cheek.

Cyrus:

Apparently, Cyrus is the new restaurant to go to. My chef/friend was really excited about this place. And another reason to go to the French Laundry: comparing the two restaurants for myself. He was able to make comparisons/contrasts because he ate at both places. Why can’t I? FYI Chef Douglas Keane is nominated for a 2007 Beard Award under the Best Chef: Pacific category.

I’m fearing that this exercise in gluttonous indulgences culinary pilgrimage will become one big sated blur. Taking pictures along the way will help me a little bit. Mind you, it’s got to be done. This should be a wonderful trip. My friends are excited (and/or jealous) for me. Yes, pictures will be taken, a full report will come shortly. With all this eating, hopefully I won’t “lose my lunch” along the way. And with this culinary pilgrimage, sacrifices had to be made: I’m going to miss both Coachella and the LA Times Festival of Books!!

All right, missing Coachella is a very small sacrifice to me. Mind you, the cooking demos for the LA Times Festival of Books include: Govind Armstrong (“Small Bites, big Nights”), Dave Lieberman (“Dave’s Dinners”), Cat Cora (“Cooking from the Hip”), Ted Allen (“The Food You Love to Eat”), Martin Yan (“Martin Yan Quick & Easy”), Barbara Fairchild & Janet McCraken (“The Bon Appetit Cookbook”), Nancy Silverton (“A Twist of the Wrist”), and Lidia Bastianich (“Lidia’s Italy”). And not to mention Russ Parsons moderating a panel discussion titled “Food Fight: When Did Eating Get Controversial?,” with Barry Glassner, Marion Nestle and Michael Pollan. And all these events are happening during the same weekend ... sigh ...

Nevertheless, I think I made the correct decision ...

[dockhl]

OK, great!

Can't wait to hear your reports

[tupac17616]

What kind of strange person would've given you high expectations for Manresa?

Sounds like one hell of a trip. Enjoy!

[rancho_gordo]

Sounds like fun. I would also recommend a quick lunch at a a taco truck. it's very different than the SoCal kind and I think just as vital to the bay area dining scene as any of the restaurants you've mentioned.

Come and say hi on Saturday at the Ferry Building!

[SiseFromm]

Some years ago we had a culinary pilgrimage of our own up and down the state. We hit a few of your destinations. I can only tell you that it's a difficult trip! We were filled to our ears with fine foods and it was somewhat exhausting.

Chez Panisse:

Of all of the places I’ll be visiting, eating at Chez Panisse will truly be a pilgrimage to me. Alice Waters, IMO, is one of the most influential culinary personalities of the second-half of the 20th century.

You got that right! Alice Waters is amazing and rarely appreciated by "civilians" for her massive contributions to the food world. I really feel that she's the entire reason I can walk into a grocery store and buy organic heirloom tomatoes. We had a really great time at Chez Panisse and I'm sure you will too.

I can't wait to hear about Cyrus. Apparently they make a call to the kitchen to announce your arrival.

[melkor]

Cyrus stopped the idiotic phone call to the kitchen nonsense.

[Swicks]

Sounds like an unbelieveable trip Russell, I look forward to seeing your reports.

Other than the Farmers Market in SF, what other places did you plan on eating at while in the city?

[MarketStEl]

Sounds interesting, and I look forward to further reports.

While you are covering the high end, I managed to do a whirlwind tour of the low end yesterday. Story and photos soon after I return to Philly. Suffice it to say for now that everyone who said I needed to visit a taqueria was right.

[Nina C.]

Before or after your trip to Chez Panisse, stop by the Cheese Board across the street for incredibly friendly service, great cheese, as many tastes of as many cheeses as you want and more at this worker-owned collective.

I went to lunch at CP which was fantastic. I appreciated the chance to order a la carte, and was fortunate to have Alice Waters herself recommend a few dishes. We took some but not all of her recommendations and loved everything except for the dessert we split. (Still good not just quite at the level of the other things we'd eaten).

It sounds like a fantastic trip! Get lots of walking in and work up your appetite.

[SiseFromm]

The thought of eating lunch at Chez Panisse, followed by dinner at The Laundry, followed by brunch the next morning at Redd is enough to make anybody nervous from the potential richness. Man oh man. You're going to be in for it!

[SG-]

Here another alternative to the Ferry market to consider Alemany's market, low tourist appeal compared to former but probably more interesting...

Here's a site with a few more pics

Alemany pics

Edited April 13, 2007 by SG- (log)

[ludja]

Here another alternative to the Ferry market to consider Alemany's market, low tourist appeal compared to former but probably more interesting...

Here's a site with a few more pics

Alemany pics

←

If you're staying near or in Los Gatos for your Manresa meal and will be there on Sunday am, consider checking out the Fermer's Merket there as well.

[MaxH]

The thought of eating lunch at Chez Panisse, followed by dinner at The Laundry, followed by brunch the next morning at Redd is enough to make anybody nervous from the potential richness.

At least one Laundry regular has been known to have both lunch and dinner there -- a long lunch, only a little time to recover between them. (Even the staff remembered it later.)

If you have a chance, you check out also the Chez Panisse Café (the upstairs, oven-and-grill-based casual venue). Please identify which, if you post about either. (Lately people eat for the first time at CPC, sometimes exclusively, then write all about their experiences at "Chez Panisse," which is a miscommunication. It can be hard to convey to new visitors why that seems so incongruous to longtime CP fans, but I get some astonished looks when I tell those fans about it happening.) It was the restaurant that made the name known. The Café is somewhat younger. And produced a genuine classic, very useful, cookbook in its own right (in the 1980s when Panisse was so "hot"): the Pasta-Pizza-Calzone cookbook, ISBN 0394530942.

Other recent writing notwithstanding, Alice Waters's essay about Panisse's vision and early history is in a food-writing collection cited recently in the Cookbooks forum here, and readily available as ISBN 0880012765 or ISBN 088001346X.

[rjwong]

Less than two weeks to go on my culinary pilgrimage and I can't wait ...

Thanks everybody for your comments & suggestions.

FYI I'll be having lunch at Chez Panisse Cafe and then drive up to Yountville, and take a little nap before dinner at TFL.

The thought of eating lunch at Chez Panisse, followed by dinner at The Laundry, followed by brunch the next morning at Redd is enough to make anybody nervous from the potential richness.

Jason, I'm afraid. I'm very afraid.

And I didn't mention the dinner I'll be having the next night after my pilgrimage.

I would also recommend a quick lunch at a a taco truck.

I might be able to have one before my dinner at the French Laundry. What do you think?? A taco before "oysters & pearls"?

My schedule looks very tight. I'm going to have to pace myself. And of course, a full report with photos ..

[rancho_gordo]

I would also recommend a quick lunch at a a taco truck.

I might be able to have one before my dinner at the French Laundry. What do you think?? A taco before "oysters & pearls"?

My schedule looks very tight. I'm going to have to pace myself. And of course, a full report with photos ..

←

I think the best taco truck is Michoacan. As you go up 29 past Napa, take Salvador and the truck is either behind the gas station or in front of the school. There are always lots of crews and locals eating. Just get one taco al pastor or suardero. It's $1.50 and you will smile.

[syrah girl]

Have a great time, we enjoyed both Redd and Cyrus last month, amazing places with some great food!

[Carolyn Tillie]

Russell.... your pilgrimage was a week ago! Did you survive???? Where is your report? Inquiring minds et al.

[rjwong]

Russell.... your pilgrimage was a week ago! Did you survive???? Where is your report? Inquiring minds et al.

←

Carrie, my pilgrimage started a week ago!

Did I survive? I don't know. Let me get back with you.

Where's my report? It's somewhere with almost two hundred photos. You'll just have to be a good little foodie and wait like everyone else, including me ...

BTW Where were you at the Ferry Building?

[Carolyn Tillie]

Russell.... your pilgrimage was a week ago! Did you survive???? Where is your report? Inquiring minds et al.

←

Carrie, my pilgrimage started a week ago!

Did I survive? I don't know. Let me get back with you.

Where's my report? It's somewhere with almost two hundred photos. You'll just have to be a good little foodie and wait like everyone else, including me ...

BTW Where were you at the Ferry Building?

←

You are still in the neighborhood? Yes, we went to the Ferry Plaza and Rancho Gordo indicated we missed seeing you at his booth by five or ten minutes. We stayed all day and enjoyed the lamb tartare samples prepared by Chris Cosentino of Incanto!

[rjwong]

My pilgrimage beginneth ...

After giving tours to grade-school kids at my workplace all day, I was ready to leave for my pilgrimage. I drove during afternoon rush hour traffic from Glendale, located just north of downtown Los Angeles, along the 101. Once I got away from that mess, I found a place in the Santa Barbara area for dinner and a hotel to stay over. By leaving LA after work instead of early in the morning, I won’t feel so rushed. I had dinner at Downey’s in downtown Santa Barbara. I’ve always wanted to try that place. Here are a few photos from Downey’s:

White asparagus salad with shrimp

Pea soup

Sauteed diver scallops with fingerling potatoes

Raspberry white chocolate mille feuille

Overall, a very nice meal at a classy neighborhood restaurant. Very relaxing ambience, the perfect thing to experience after the type of day I had. I drove up the freeway to a nearby Best Western and called it a night.

[rjwong]

On the road to Los Gatos

The complimentary breakfast buffet at the Best Western was fine for what it was. One item that impressed me was the hard-boiled eggs, already shelled. Wow, someone had to do all that by hand ...

Driving up the 101, I arrived in the afternoon to the little town of Los Gatos. I checked into a local hotel, washed up and took a little rest before dinner at Manresa. The dinner reservation was for 6:30 p.m., party of three. Carolyn Tillie, her friend “R” and I were about to have some culinary fun that evening. I walked from my hotel to the restaurant, as you’ll notice:

A couple of interior shots:

Six amuse bouches to begin our dining adventure:

(N.V. Comte Audoin de Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Chenay)

Petits fours “red pepper-black olive”

Radishes from the garden with seasonings on the side

Who would have thought of an amuse bouche as simple as radishes? It’s so “Chez Panisse,” ehh??

Oyster in urchin jelly, nori croustillant

Spring croquettes

This amuse impressed all of us.

Turnip and foie gras royale, cider

Arpege farm egg

Now comes eleven courses with wine pairings:

Caviar consommé, seaweed brioche

(Watataka-Shizuoka, Sake, Onikoroshi, Junmai Ginjo)

The consommé was salty, paired with an inherently salty caviar.

Amberjack with perilla and sesame

(N.V. Dios Baco Manzanilla Sherry)

Spring peas in bonito broth, marinated scallops

(2003 Domaine Maestracci, “E Prove,” Vermentino, Corsica)

Potato dumplings and vegetables from the garden, vegetable juices (blurred)

(2003 Domaine de Salvard, Sauvignon Blanc, Cheverny)

This vegetable course served during the middle of the meal made for a nice contrast.

Bonito with seaweed pistou, ficoide glaciale

(2005 Domaine Clape Saint Peray Rhone Valley)

Garden veloute with mustard

(2004 Sartarelli Classico Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi)

Somewhere at this point in the meal (I don’t remember exactly when), we all took a little break. Carrie & “R” went to see David Kinch’s garden. I went to the men’s restroom. I mention this because to those who don’t know, the restroom is nicely decorated with a lot of framed menus. Mind you, to those who do know, those framed menus are something else upon careful inspection ... I’ll just leave it at that.

Risotto with flowers, shellfish and cherry blossom leaves (blurred)

(2006 Vietti Roero Arneis Italy)

Abalone with asparagus and egg

(2004 Chateau D’Epire Chenin Blanc Savennieres)

The abalone was so good. And it wasn’t rough at all. Great preparation!

Roast turbot, tender onions and oyster

(2004 Paul Chapelle Champgain Puligny-Montrachet)

Rabbit with lettuce-martadella raviolo

(2000 Cafaro Merlot Napa Valley)

Roast lamb and its sweetbreads, roasted beets

(2001 Ahlgren Bate’s Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains)

A few desserts were served:

(N.V. Pineau des Charentes Brillet, Cognac)

Sweet pea and pistachio cones

Good! I took that picture just in time.

Strawberry souffle with meyer lemon

Chocolate and olive oil mousse, ginger

At this point, chef David Kinch came by the table and introduced himself. He is a nice, quiet man. We got to tour the kitchen.

Kitchen

We returned to our table and saw one last dessert:

Petit fours “strawberry-chocolate”

Tea box

Things were coming to a close for us, or I would have liked to try one of those teas.

Manresa is doing great things. All the vegetables served came from David Kinch’s garden. The courses were challenging, more cutting-edge than other places, particularly the vegetable courses. By concensus, some of the wine pairings didn’t work. Overall, I totally enjoyed my meal with my dinner companions.

Carrie & “R” dropped me off back to the hotel. I think it was 11 p.m., but who’s keeping time anyways? Me, that’s who! I need to get up early and drive up to Berkeley to meet my friend at 8 a.m. I have a full day planned on Saturday.

[Carolyn Tillie]

We dropped you off a little after midnight.... a full SIX HOURS after we started eating!

[rjwong]

Are you going to Scarborough Fair?

I left Los Gatos on Sat. morning, sometime after 7 a.m. I made my way to Berkeley, and once I got to my destination, my friend gave me a personal tour of Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi. This was a real privilege for me, seeing how they make all of their products.

Here are some photos I was allowed to take:

After the tour, we went over to San Francisco’s Farmers’ Market at the Ferry Building. And no, we didn’t wear flowers in our hair.

Here are a few photos from the Ferry Building:

The Ferry Building definitely is more commercial, more touristy, than the farmers’ markets down in Southern California. If you haven’t visited the Ferry Building, you should, at least one time. Boy, I showed great restraint! I didn’t buy anything there! Also, I had a wonderful time meeting Rancho Gordo. Glad to meet you, Rancho Gordo.

[rjwong]

Dim sum and then some

After our time at the Ferry Building, we decided to have a little Chinese dim sum at Yank Sing before our lunch at Chez Panisse. Yes, you read that correctly.

Yank Sing is a five-to-ten minute walk from the Ferry Building, far away from Chinatown. Notice the not-so-jammed ambience of the area, in contrast to the crowded streets of Chinatown, which has its own ambience, admittedly.

Guo teh & Gai lan (Potstickers and Chinese broccoli)

Har gow (Shrimp dumplings)

Xiao long bao (Soup dumplings)

Peking duck (one individual order)

Dahn tat & Jin duey (Egg tart & Sesame ball with sweet bean filling)

The dim sum was pretty good. The service was amazing. The soup dumpling (xiao long bao) is not your typical Cantonese food item. They were so good, we ate two orders ... Snack time is over. Back to Berkeley for lunch at Chez Panisse.

[rjwong]

“The freshest, local, seasonal produce, simply prepared ...”

Chez Panisse is ground zero for California cuisine, and Alice Waters is its most famous adherent.

No, I didn’t get carried away and kiss the ground of Chez Panisse, as though it was the culinary version of Haight/Ashbury and the Summer of Love.

It’s time for lunch.

Acme bread

Baked Sonoma goat cheese with garden lettuces

Northern halibut involtini baked in the wood oven with zucchini and basil

Cannard Farm rhubarb tart with strawberry ice cream

Assam tea

Chez Panisse is what I expected it to be: the freshest ingredients, simply prepared. No culinary tricks. No avant garde cuisine. Yes, we can make these dishes at home with the right ingredients & techniques. And the food will taste delicious. To a certain extent, I didn’t have to go to Chez Panisse, only to say that I’ve been there. Now that I’ve been to Chez Panisse, my dining experience there confirms that the distinctives of California cuisine are true and consistent since its emergence over 30 years ago.