2 Days in Barcelona

[BryanZ]

For those of you who also frequent the France board, you will also see that I've posted there, too, concerning my upcoming quick jaunt through Europe.

I will be spending two day in Barcelona and am looking for recommendations similar to those in the Paris thread. Needless to say I'm incredibly excited about eating in Spain given my current tastes. I realize that not all Spanish cooking is modern, so I'm looking for a wide range of experiences. While most of my restaurant meals will be decidedly modern, I really want to eat copious amount of Spanish ham (I'm a jamon iberico virgin) and get some more casual traditional experinces too. Namely, markets, shops, culinarily significant areas of the city.

So for dinners I'm planning on Alkimia and Cinc Sentits for the two nights I'll be in Barcelona.

I also want to stop by Espai Scure but don't know when to do so. Is it open during the day, or is it an after dinner place? Do I need reservations?

For my two lunches, I'm totally open to suggestions. Maybe a quintessential tapas place, or traditional Spanish cooking. I can eat breakfast, brunch, lunch, two afternoon snacks, and dinner in a day, so throw out as many suggestions as you can. Since I understand that Barcelona isn't that expensive of a city, price isn't a huge concern, but I do want to have unique, valuable experiences.

I'm also looking for cheap hotel recommendations (about 100 Euro/night) and a sense of the general area I should center myself in. Food is much more of a concern in this regard than the "sights." Thanks to some help on eG via PMs and such it's been suggested that I stay in the 7th in Paris. I'm looking for a similar recommendation for Barcelona.

Thank you so much.

[nypork]

For those of you who also frequent the France board, you will also see that I've posted there, too, concerning my upcoming quick jaunt through Europe.

I will be spending two day in Barcelona and am looking for recommendations similar to those in the Paris thread.  Needless to say I'm incredibly excited about eating in Spain given my current tastes.  I realize that not all Spanish cooking is modern, so I'm looking for a wide range of experiences.  While most of my restaurant meals will be decidedly modern, I really want to eat copious amount of Spanish ham (I'm a jamon iberico virgin) and get some more casual traditional experinces too.  Namely, markets, shops, culinarily significant areas of the city.

So for dinners I'm planning on Alkimia and Cinc Sentits for the two nights I'll be in Barcelona.

I also want to stop by Espai Scure but don't know when to do so.  Is it open during the day, or is it an after dinner place?  Do I need reservations?

For my two lunches, I'm totally open to suggestions. Maybe a quintessential tapas place, or traditional Spanish cooking.  I can eat breakfast, brunch, lunch, two afternoon snacks, and dinner in a day, so throw out as many suggestions as you can.  Since I understand that Barcelona isn't that expensive of a city, price isn't a huge concern, but I do want to have unique, valuable experiences.

I'm also looking for cheap hotel recommendations (about 100 Euro/night) and a sense of the general area I should center myself in.  Food is much more of a concern in this regard than the "sights."  Thanks to some help on eG via PMs and such it's been suggested that I stay in the 7th in Paris.  I'm looking for a similar recommendation for Barcelona.

Thank you so much.

←

Cinq sentis is a great choice, went their last year as a part of little culinary tour, definitely try to get to Cal Pep and Cafe Pinoxto(sp) in the Bouqueria for your tapas route

Edited February 7, 2007 by nypork (log)

[pedro]

Bryan, I've been following the 'Z' threads with interest. Based on those, I strongly suggest taking a train to Girona and pay a visit to Can Roca.

I'm not CincSentits biggest fan: it's a good place with good but not outstanding dishes and I believe that the main reason for its success among people in this forum is because they speak perfect English and are used to how service works in the States.

[nimzo]

Sorry Pedro, a big vote for Cinc Sentits here.I've found the food excellent and preferred it in many ways to Hisop, Alkimia and Comerc.Whether Spanish or English speaking the level of service is superb and there are no niggling little things like refusing to give out a menu in castellano some I could mention.

[Rogelio]

If you're looking forward to try ibérico ham you should want to give a try to Jamonísimo.

And if you want traiditional cooking don't miss Hispania in Arenys de Mar.

[Silly Disciple]

what Pedro said. while I like CS a lot, their style is more... let's say international. I would also consider Saüc or Colibri as other options which are similar to CS but a bit more local on their cuisine. And as I've said over PM, do consider Can Roca as an option, if you hit them on a good day (they have many of those luckily) they'll blow your mind.

Regarding Cal Pep, I have to say it at some point. I still fail to understand why people keep on recommending it. The quality of product is on par with many restaurants in the city, it's so populat now you have to wait in line to get in, they charge astounding prices and if you're "lucky to get in" you get sandy clams or a 11 euro tortilla .... Not much more than a tourist trap in my book.

edited to add: Ditto on what Rogelio said too.

Edited February 7, 2007 by Silly Disciple (log)

[Saborosa]

Just a quick answer to your Espai Sucre questions, which I would definitely recommend visiting. It sounds from your questions you may think it's a place you go for dessert, which it isn't. Yes, its menus are based around the idea of 'sweet' dishes, but you go there for a full meal. In fact, it only serves set menus of at least three dishes (plus amuse and petit fours). It's open 9-11.30 Tues-Sat. C/Princesa 53, 93 268 1630, www.espaisucre.com. I would advise booking as it's quite small.

[Corinna Dunne]

Hi Bryan, I've seen your threads too, and second all the recommemdations for Can Roca. It's a train journey out of town, but well worth it. Exceptionally good value for money too. You will probably be very full after lunch there, so following it with Quimet i Quimet that evening - a tapas bar that Silly Disciple recommends regularly - might be a good idea. Very inexpensive top quality tapas made primarily from canned goods (don't underestimate this factor) in a really cool little spot. We loved it.

I preferred Hissop to Cinc Sentits (although in fairness the latter was for a private function, so there were some menu constraints), and Sauc and Colibri are spots I'd love to try. They get plenty of favourable mentions from trusted palates on this board. Alkimia appears to be not so popular, and for that reasonl I skipped on it. We enjoyed Comerc 24, but there are better places.

On Cal Pep (famous for its fried fish tapas), I really enjoyed it, although many on this board feel it is over-priced and over-rated. It would be interesting to get a recommendation for a more off the radar place that does the same type of food because the experience is certainly a good one. As menitioned by posters above, the Iberico ham is wonderful and also look out for pimientos de Padron, a tapas plate of green chilli type peppers, which are mostly mild but with a few fiery intruders to keep you on your toes.

The markets are well worth a visit, and in the old quarter, look out for shops that sell turron, a Catalan nougat made from almonds: the blanco is like French hard nougat, but the turron blando is quite soft, made from crushed almonds and honey... just incredible.

[BryanZ]

So if I was to make it out to Celler de Can Roca, how would I do so? I'm guessing train is the best bet, but I'm having trouble navigating/finding the right train service website from Barcelona to Girona. From the Girona train station do I take a taxi to the restaurant? How long is the total journey, each way?

Also, if I go for lunch, can I still order the "surprise" tasting menu I've seen mentioned? People familiar with my dining trends will know that I must order the surprise tasting menu everywhere I go, so if I go all the way out there I want to get the full experience. If I go for dinner, can I get a train back to Barcelona that night without being stuck in Girona?

Finally, how much is this place for a tasting menu?

Thank you so much. And keep the info. coming.

[Silly Disciple]

So if I was to make it out to Celler de Can Roca, how would I do so?  I'm guessing train is the best bet, but I'm having trouble navigating/finding the right train service website from Barcelona to Girona.  From the Girona train station do I take a taxi to the restaurant?  How long is the total journey, each way?

heres the link for the trains, god know if it will work when you click on it. In any case it's a Renfe train and it takes about an hour and 10 minutes to go from Barcelona to Girona. A taxi from the train station is a 10 minutes - 10 euros ride.

Also, if I go for lunch, can I still order the "surprise" tasting menu I've seen mentioned?  People familiar with my dining trends will know that I must order the surprise tasting menu everywhere I go, so if I go all the way out there I want to get the full experience.

yes, you certainly can.

If I go for dinner, can I get a train back to Barcelona that night without being stuck in Girona?

no, it's just too tight (at least for my taste) to make the meal enjoyable. You don't want to be glancing your watch every 5 minutes.

Finally, how much is this place for a tasting menu?

I don't recall exactly, but it's in the 90 euro ballpark.

[Rogelio]

Finally, how much is this place for a tasting menu?

←

I have last summer's menu in my hands and the surprise menu is 95€ plus 7% VAT.

[BryanZ]

So things are starting to take shape. I arrive on a Friday afternoon from Paris, will check-in at yet to be determined hotel, and plan to do some ham-ing at Jamonisimo. Perhaps I'll try to get over to the Boqueria for some late afternoon, early evening tapas.

That night I have a dinner at Alkimia and will order a long tasting menu. If I get out in time, I'll try to get over to Sucre Espai for a three-course sweet, late-night meal.

Next morning, grab some breakfast, then take a train to Girona for a 1:30PM lunch at El Celler de Can Roca, another lengthy tasting menu will be ordered. That night I'll try to have dinner at Cinc Sentits where, you guessed it, another tasting menu will be ordered.

The next morning I'm not sure what I'll do for breakfast since it'll be Sunday and Boqueria will be closed. Then it's a hop to Gatwick airport in London, then drop of our bags at a dorm in UCL, then take a train to Oxford for a Bright Eyes show that evening. I fly back to school in NC next morning.

Depending on where my hotel is, I guess I'll a need breakfast location or two. And I'm still looking for good areas to stay, Las Ramblas, Eixamples? Anyone?

Edited February 7, 2007 by BryanZ (log)

[Silly Disciple]

So things are starting to take shape.  I arrive on a Friday afternoon from Paris, will check-in at yet to be determined hotel, and plan to do some ham-ing at Jamonisimo.  Perhaps I'll try to get over to the Boqueria for some late afternoon, early evening tapas.

That night I have a dinner at Alkimia and will order a long tasting menu.  If I get out in time, I'll try to get over to Sucre Espai for a three-course sweet, late-night meal.

Next morning, grab some breakfast, then take a train to Girona for a 1:30PM lunch at El Celler de Can Roca, another lengthy tasting menu will be ordered.  That night I'll try to have dinner at Cinc Sentits where, you guessed it, another tasting menu will be ordered.

The next morning I'm not sure what I'll do for breakfast since it'll be Sunday and Boqueria will be closed.  Then it's a hop to Gatwick airport in London, then drop of our bags at a dorm in UCL, then take a train to Oxford for a Bright Eyes show that evening.  I fly back to school in NC next morning.

Depending on where my hotel is, I guess I'll a need breakfast location or two.  And I'm still looking for good areas to stay, Las Ramblas, Eixamples?  Anyone?

←

Boy you really do like eating don't you?

Boqueria in the late afternoon is dead, don't bother. After Jamonisimo you can hit Quimet i Quimet or Taktika Berri for a quick something before Alkimia if you so desire. I don't think you'll manage to get to Espai Sucre in time though.

That's quite a lot of food, and I'm not a shy eater myself.

Next morning (Saturday, I guess) do hit the Boqueria for breakfast and a stroll, it does get crowded so be there early. Then off to Sants Train Station to catch the train to Girona (check if you can catch it in Plaza Catalunya or Passeig de Gracia instead, it will be more convenient).

Breakfast on Sunday is a tough one, let me think about it a bit and I'll try to get back to you with an idea or two.

[Silly Disciple]

For Sunday morning Cerveceria Catalana might be a good option. Not the most exciting place in the world, but they open early, have a good selection and if you know what to order you'll have a decent lunch before you get on the plane.

[Saborosa]

A couple of reasonably priced (100 euros or less) 'stylish' hotels for you:

http://www.timeout.com/barcelona/guidevenu...rket_Hotel.html

In the Sant Antoni area, next to the Raval, near the Sant Antoni food market, which is a bit like a mini Boqueria, but without the tourists. The cafe inside the market does good Catalan homecooking usually. The hotel is part of the Quinze Nits restaurant chain. Friends have enjoyed the hotel's restaurant, but I have to say I'm a bit suspicious of the places in this low-price chain.

http://www.timeout.com/barcelona/guidevenu..._Orientals.html

In the Born, which is a pretty good place to base yourself in.

[Corinna Dunne]

It's also worth checking out hotwire.

It's a bit of a gamble but generally pays off with a good rate. You select a city, it's divided into zones, you select the zone(s) you are interested in and enter the dates you wish to book. It will list the options available, give no names, but loads of details and most importantly, give a rate. The only catch is, you don't know what hotel you're getting until you've booked (and there's no pulling out then), so you have no idea of how big the discount is. You never end up paying over the odds, and will always get a good, if not exceptional rate.

[BryanZ]

I've chosen this hotel. It seems very centrally located, has a definite quirky antiquey vibe to it, and is really lauded on TripAdvisor. I've decided to base myself in the Passieg de Gracia/Plaza de Catalunya area because it gives me great access to trains and isn't far from the Gothic/Las Ramblas area.

L'Antic Espai

[Silly Disciple]

I've chosen this hotel.  It seems very centrally located, has a definite quirky antiquey vibe to it, and is really lauded on TripAdvisor.  I've decided to base myself in the Passieg de Gracia/Plaza de Catalunya area because it gives me great access to trains and isn't far from the Gothic/Las Ramblas area.

L'Antic Espai

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Indeed, it is a great location Bryan.

[BryanZ]

I guess the next step is figuring out where to eat during the day in the area. Walking distance from Passeig de Gracia is preferred. And naturally, I'm looking for places "worth" the trip.

It seems that Tapaç 24 is near my hotel, so I can probably walk there. They're also open all day, so that's good for my schedule.

Bar Pinotxo is in the Boqueria market and that is also near my hotel. Is that among the best places to go for tapas in Boqueria?

If indeed Jamonisimo is the place to go for Iberico ham, I'll need to head out there. Is there anything else worth seeking out in the area around the Entenca metro station.

Inopia, Quimet i Quimet, and Taktika Berri seem somewhat further out of my way. Are they worth seeking out in and of themselves?

Am I missing anything?

[Silly Disciple]

I guess the next step is figuring out where to eat during the day in the area.  Walking distance from Passeig de Gracia is preferred.  And naturally, I'm looking for places "worth" the trip.

It seems that Tapaç 24 is near my hotel, so I can probably walk there.  They're also open all day, so that's good for my schedule.

Bar Pinotxo is in the Boqueria market and that is also near my hotel.  Is that among the best places to go for tapas in Boqueria?

If indeed Jamonisimo is the place to go for Iberico ham, I'll need to head out there.  Is there anything else worth seeking out in the area around the Entenca metro station.

Inopia, Quimet i Quimet, and Taktika Berri seem somewhat further out of my way.  Are they worth seeking out in and of themselves?

Am I missing anything?

←

Dude, this city is SMALL. Taktika Berri is no more than 9 blocks away. let's say 14 for Inopia, and maybe 20 for Quimet.

[vmilor]

If indeed Jamonisimo is the place to go for Iberico ham, I'll need to head out there.  Is there anything else worth seeking out in the area around the Entenca metro station.

Am I missing anything?

←

THE place???? This depends on the individual pig which is being slaughtered as much as the part of the cut. My best guess is that Jamonissimo does not have the monopoly but it is for sure the best advertised in egullet.

But even the worst example of Iberico ham should be a new discovery if you have not been previously exposed to it but there are so many factors and the topic does not lend itself to oversimplification. Just enjoy yourself but be aware that there is something better that you have not discovered yet.

[Chris Amirault]

Go to Bar Pinoxto early, sit down with some cava, and let them serve you whatever they want to serve you. (ETA: Especially the baby clams and eggs.)

While you're walking around, check out these places. There are fantastic food shops right near where you're staying.

Edited February 12, 2007 by chrisamirault (log)

[BryanZ]

I guess the next step is figuring out where to eat during the day in the area.  Walking distance from Passeig de Gracia is preferred.  And naturally, I'm looking for places "worth" the trip.

It seems that Tapaç 24 is near my hotel, so I can probably walk there.  They're also open all day, so that's good for my schedule.

Bar Pinotxo is in the Boqueria market and that is also near my hotel.  Is that among the best places to go for tapas in Boqueria?

If indeed Jamonisimo is the place to go for Iberico ham, I'll need to head out there.  Is there anything else worth seeking out in the area around the Entenca metro station.

Inopia, Quimet i Quimet, and Taktika Berri seem somewhat further out of my way.  Are they worth seeking out in and of themselves?

Am I missing anything?

←

Dude, this city is SMALL. Taktika Berri is no more than 9 blocks away. let's say 14 for Inopia, and maybe 20 for Quimet.

←

Are there any good online Barcelona city maps available? I like Google maps overall but they're not detailed enough to cover any significant area when printed out. I have no problem walking but am a little bit worried about getting lost since I'm so used to nice numbered streets and avenues.

vmilor, It is also my understanding that Jamonisimo will do interesting tastings of various kinds and cuts of hams if you ask. If I can figure out how to ask, I'm doing it. Like you said, I think of it as a doorway into something that I will likely find extremely compelling (given my love of artisanal American ham products).

[Silly Disciple]

Are there any good online Barcelona city maps available?  I like Google maps overall but they're not detailed enough to cover any significant area when printed out.  I have no problem walking but am a little bit worried about getting lost since I'm so used to nice numbered streets and avenues.

vmilor, It is also my understanding that Jamonisimo will do interesting tastings of various kinds and cuts of hams if you ask.  If I can figure out how to ask, I'm doing it.  Like you said, I think of it as a doorway into something that I will likely find extremely compelling (given my love of artisanal American ham products).

←

for online maps I tend to use google, barcelona.lanetro.com and callejero.qdq.com for different things.

When you get here go into any subway station and get their map, it's really good for navigating the city (which, by the way, has nice numbered streets and avenues. It's Barcelona, not the Amazon).

While I agree with Vedat that there's always something out there which is better, I think Jamonisimo probably holds the best quality / accesibility ratio (quite expensive though).

[Saborosa]

Bar Pinotxo is more of a place for plates rather than tapas. As are Universal, Quim and Central, also in the Boqueria. Go there for breakfast.

Jamonisimo has a sit-down tasting room (tiny though) offering a tasting of three hams from the different DOs (Guijuelo, Huelva, Extremadura) and another of ham from the three parts of the same leg which I describe using the technical terms of 'top' (from the front of the leg, 'maza'), 'bottom' (the back of the leg, 'mazilla', which is where you usually start cutting a leg first) and 'stump' ('punta', the top of the thigh). I would think they should have enough English to understand what you want. But I'll happily come translate in exchange for some ham! As Silly points out, it is pricey.

BryanZ, I appreciate you want to make the most of your time and you're trying to squeeze in a lot of eating, but I think wandering around lost and seeing what you find is one of the best things to do in BCN! But if you do want to plan, bcn.es/guia is a decent online searchable map, with some restaurants marked (though the info given about them is sparse). There's a flash version http://www.bcn.es/guia/guiabcn/catala/guia_bcn.htm, but it's a bit slow. (By the way, carrer means street).

Oh, and Silly, I don't think Plaza de la Revolucio de Setembre de 1868 is the kind of numbered street Bryan was thinking of