Two Days in Paris

[HOLLY_L]

Thanks for the clarification! I thought it was probably a joke, but then I second-guessed myself and thought that maybe I was just woefully ignorant of important French dining customs.

[John Talbott]

I believe that part of the Michelin at least should be reliable. If they go to such lengths as to list the best dishes in their categories, I should expect them to proceed on rather solid ground

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I'm a bit slow on the uptake this month - but for specific dishes one can also consult Emmanuel Rubin of Figaroscope's "Le Paris des Envies gourmandes: 1 plat, 1 adresse" Broché (last edition looks like 2003 but Amazon.fr only lists 2002 as available).

[markk]

John, are you familiar with any of the places I named upthread, in particular "A Souscyrac", "Thoumieux", and "D'Chez Eux"? Do they still exist? Are they any good still? Are there any great places currently for that kind of hearty Southwestern fare?

[John Talbott]

John, are you familiar with any of the places I named upthread, in particular "A Souscyrac", "Thoumieux", and "D'Chez Eux"?  Do they still exist?  Are they any good still?  Are there any great places currently for that kind of hearty Southwestern fare?

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The first two I have eaten at but not for a while; I prefer Cerisaie, Le Domaine de Lintillac, J'Go for lamb and even Diapason but again, I don't think I've done a true Southwest place in a while. Avoid the two Darroze places though. And there's an old thread on D'Chez Eux.

[markk]

Thank you, and Good Lord !!!

I think that at the very least, Bryan has to check out the Domaine de Lintillac menu with photos !!!!!

(English, French)

Any place that has a menu section called "Foie Gras" with 9 different offerings is OK in my book.

John, just how good is the food? I may have to jump on a plane myself instead of waiting for the no smoking laws to take effect. I did not with great joy that Cerisaie is already a non-smoking restaurant.

Of course we have to defer to John as to how good this place really is, but I'm wondering if this menu appeals to Bryan?

[John Talbott]

John, just how good is the food? 

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At the risk of provoking Pti's contempt for my puny appetite, I was overwhelmed by the menu and dishes. I thought I really liked SW cuisine and I certainly knew what I was getting when I went but I still have a paper reproduction of the menu they have in a dispenser outside and hand-written on the top page is my afterdinner note: "This is the place to go when you gotta have it." But how is it? It's what it is and lots of it; not haute cuisine, not nouvelle cuisine, not cuisine minceur, not fusion cuisine - this is gutsy cuisine.

[markk]

John, if you are in Paris at the moment, have you any way to find out if either Lintillac location is non-smoking yet? I really may hop on a plane. Thanks in advance!

[s_sevilla]

Brian---

You're a student.....stay in a hostel, that's what they're for. If you're really adventourous and have a friend that can recommend you, try the couchsurfing.net thing, since you can cook I'm sure you could trade a spot on someone's floor with a good dinner.

[Ptipois]

At the risk of provoking Pti's contempt for my puny appetite

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[BryanZ]

Can anyone who is familiar with Les Magnolias help me out in figuring out how to get back from the restaurant later in the evening. It seems that the last train is 10:22 and my dinner reservation is at 8. How much is a taxi back to the 7e in Paris or is there a late night bus that runs? I'm trying to move my dinner earlier if possible but if that's not possible, what are my options?

Thanks so much. I leave for Paris from London tomorrow for meals at Gagnaire and Les Magnolias on Wednesday.

[insomniac]

Can anyone who is familiar with Les Magnolias help me out in figuring out how to get back from the restaurant later in the evening.  It seems that the last train is 10:22 and my dinner reservation is at 8.  How much is a taxi back to the 7e in Paris or is there a late night bus that runs?  I'm trying to move my dinner earlier if possible but if that's not possible, what are my options?

Thanks so much.  I leave for Paris from London tomorrow for meals at Gagnaire and Les Magnolias on Wednesday.

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hey Bryan, just had a look on my timetable and there seems to be a noctilien N35 from the resto to Gare de Lyon but you had better confirm as mine is last year's

[Ptipois]

Make sure you have the right train timetable, because RER trains run until past midnight. I have no information for Nogent-Le Perreux but last train to Paris from Fontenay-Sous-Bois (which is close) is at 0:35 and from Val-de-Fontenay a bit later. Trains every 15 minutes.

BTW a taxi wouldn't cost you much more than a ride within city limits, distances are small. There is no train problem anyway.

See this for more info.

[BryanZ]

Although my French is non-existant it appears that after 9:40, for this week only, service on the E is suspended. Just my luck. Hmm.

[milla]

Take a taxi.

[Ptipois]

Although my French is non-existant it appears that after 9:40, for this week only, service on the E is suspended.  Just my luck.  Hmm.

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I see no such thing. Or if I'm wrong, just take the A which is within walking distance (Fontenay), or a taxi, or a suburban bus which will take you to the nearest Porte and then you may take the métro, a taxi, a bus, etc. Or a Noctilien bus. Buses and métros have been running later than usual (plus some on Sundays and holidays) since a couple of months ago.

(Everything will be fine, you're not going to the jungle, you're only going a few miles East of central Paris!)

[the g-man]

Hoping for a trip report...

We are planning a trip in May, and thinking about the bistros and restaurants. Interested in hearing how your trip went.

[tinyhandful]

i will also be in france in may for 3 weeks (first time--YAAAYYY!) and am waiting on bryan's reports with bated breath.

i found very reasonable hotel rates through venere.com much better rates than expedia/orbitz/priceline/etc... for the same hotels. one can also google "venere discount code" for a -4% coupon.

take care all

[BryanZ]

First of all, I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I had a great time in Paris and some truly wonderful meals.

I am eG travelblogging about my week in Europe and am now getting into my time in Paris. I do hope you'll read. There are tons of great pictures from the likes of Pierre Gagnaire, Les Magnolias, l'Astrance, and Chez l'Ami Jean.

I hope you'll check out my trip and meal reports here. Paris follows London.

[Chufi]

We were in Paris last weekend, to see Keith Jarrett. Because as usual, eGullet was a great help in finding places to eat, I thought I'd report back

John Talbott recommended Brasserie la Lorraine for a meal near Salle Pleyel where the concert was. The weather was nice enough to eat outside, and we really enjoyed the food.

We payed a visit to Dehillerin, which, I have to say, i was a bit disappointed in. I guess I am very lucky to live in a city with a fantastic kitchen supply store, Duikelman! Still Dehillerin was a fascinating shop to browse for a bit, I just did not see anything I wanted to buy (not necessarily a bad thing )

We also visited 2 teashops where my husband went mad with excitement about the rare Chinese teas he could buy, Maison des Trois Thés on Rue St. Médard and Thés de Chine on Boulevard St. Germain.

On Sunday we had lunch at the Louvre, what can I say we were there and we were hungry, but definitely not the gourmet highlight of the weekend

In the afternoon we payed Pierre Hermé a visit, wandered around St. Germain, and had dinner at Fish La Boisonnerie. We loved Fish: great atmosphere, busy but still relaxed, nice staff, great food and winelist (with many wines available in 50 cl. caraffes which I think is very nice).

On the train back to Amsterdam next morning, we feasted on Pierre Hermé's macarons!

Some pictures here on my (Dutch) blog.

Thanks again eGullet, I just love how the enormous amount of info you can find on this site, helps with trip planning and makes travel so much more relaxed and agreeable!

[Megan Blocker]

Klary, what did you have at Pierre Herme? I'm very curious, as I still fantasize about my tarte au cafe.

Two days in Paris...sigh...so jealous...

[Chufi]

Klary, what did you have at Pierre Herme?  I'm very curious, as I still fantasize about my tarte au cafe.

Two days in Paris...sigh...so jealous...

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we were in the small shop on Sunday afternoon, and there wasn't much left! But we did buy a huge box of macarons and some chocolate sablés.

When I was in Paris in March I bought a "tarte infinitement vanille" and had that on the train. Oh so good.

[loladrian]

We payed a visit to Dehillerin, which, I have to say, i was a bit disappointed in.

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I have to agree with you there, and I almost hold my breath as I do... but I was soo disappointed! After all I had heard I was expecting gold. But there was a lot of dust, no prices and I felt like I was in a garage. I prefer MORA, which is just around the corner and the sales staff much friendlier.

Edited July 16, 2007 by loladrian (log)

[Margaret Pilgrim]

We payed a visit to Dehillerin, which, I have to say, i was a bit disappointed in.

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I have to agree with you there, and I almost hold my breath as I do... but I was soo disappointed!

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I think that Dehillerin belongs to a growing body of businesses, restaurants included, whose importance lies in their place in history rather than their current market relevance. The collective "we" were beguiled by Dehillerin at a time when its gleaming but mysterious vessels with decades if not centuries of proven utility, utensils and gadgets for creating the most exquisite creations, guaranteed that our kitchens could look like a pro's even if we couldn't cook like one. Today, we are probably better cooks and professional grade cookware is available everywhere for those willing to pay the price, but there's still unmistakable caché in the subtle imprint of "Dihillerin, France" on one's copper.

[John Talbott]

We payed a visit to Dehillerin, which, I have to say, i was a bit disappointed in.

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I have to agree with you there, and I almost hold my breath as I do... but I was soo disappointed!

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I think that Dehillerin belongs to a growing body of businesses, restaurants included, whose importance lies in their place in history rather than their current market relevance. The collective "we" were beguiled by Dehillerin at a time when its gleaming but mysterious vessels with decades if not centuries of proven utility, utensils and gadgets for creating the most exquisite creations, guaranteed that our kitchens could look like a pro's even if we couldn't cook like one. Today, we are probably better cooks and professional grade cookware is available everywhere for those willing to pay the price, but there's still unmistakable caché in the subtle imprint of "Dihillerin, France" on one's copper.

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Ain't it the truth.

In 1970 I remember it as a shrine where one went every trip and friends placed orders that they eagerly awaited delivery on.

Now I must pass it once a month and I don't even scope the windows.

Funny thing. But how much is because the items we once thought were rare are on the web, in US cooking stores or even Monoprix?

[VivreManger]

Actually some items are still cheaper at Dehillerin than in the US. I have not seen as great a variety of tambis elsewhere.