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Cheese Course Accompaniments


Chris Amirault

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I'm planning on a cheese course as part of one of my holiday dinners, which will involve, I believe, a Tomme Levezu, a Bleu de Basque, a Fougerous, and a Garottxa, with possibly a fifth added. I'm fiddling with beverages (sherry or sauternes are the two candidates so far), but I'm more interested in the accompaniments for the cheese plate.

Right now, I'm thinking that I'll probably just purchase crackers instead of making them, which means I'd like to have a few interesting counterpoints. I know I'll have some hickory smoked almonds thanks to my Bradley smoker, and I may also place down some very thin slices of aromatic lop yuk, a cured Chinese bacon of sorts that can be served raw. I'm looking for a few other items to have with the cheese: a chutney, say, or perhaps some onion confit.

Thoughts?

Chris Amirault

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Is it necessary that they be home-made or are store-bought items ok? One item that I have enjoyed as an accompaniment with certain cheeses is Cranberry Fool, a condiment that first came to my attention via the Rosengarten Report.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

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Homemade only, Doc, for sure. But that cranberry fool might just resemble something I already make. It's very powerful, though, a bit too....

And grapes are a fine idea, Susan, one I hadn't considered, stupidly.

Chris Amirault

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A local cheese guy turned be on to raisin-nut bread. Great for smushy cheeses.

I usually hold the Sauternes for a fruit dessert after (though I love Sauternes with a farmhouse cheddar and a fresh peach on the front porch in July), and just go with a good, ripe red. Actually, if it's a large gathering, we usually drink the last of whatever three or five bottles have been nearly drained up until the cheese course, while my wife and I argue about who's going to serve dessert. Given the variety of cheeses, trying for an exact match seems futile.

Got any fruit compot? Also, a little rosemary-infused olive oil for the Garottxa (been hanging in Spain, have we?), or even some sundried tomatoes spilled over the top might be swell.

Not sure what your onion confit recipe calls for, but a little vinaigre de Xerex dribbled in while you're confiting always seems to bring out the sweet. Particularly appropriate, of course, if your wine comes from Xerex, too.

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I like to focus on the cheese so I'd keep it simple - aside from what you've already got I'd just add some walnut bread. For wine I'd go with something sweet from the Loire or Alsace - both have enough acidity to hold up against the cheeses where the sauternes will seem heavy by comparison. From the Loire I'd go with Baumard quarts de chaume or coteaux du layon, Huet demi-sec, Moelleux, or cuvee constance. From Alsace I'd go with a Pinot Gris SGN from Hugel, Zind-Humbrecht, or Trimbach.

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Given the cheeses you are serving I'd tend to keep it simple. Crusty French bread. Good salted butter. Fruit (pear, apple & grapes)

I'd also go with either a strong red wine (zifandel for example) or a good vintage port.

Not fond of sweet wines with cheese, but if you must you might want to try a Nightingale from Beringer if you can find one.

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