Adria Cooking in NYC

[Luckylies]

The demonstations yesterday were insane. Though alot of the things show were a bit dated to the in-the-know culinary professional (spherefication, noodles, lechathin etc.) it was still quite the experiance to see the masters at work. the spanish chefs have a completely different plating aesthetic, which we just never see here. ever. even the people who are using the different techniques are not approximating the cohesion and whimsy that the Spanish chefs acheive. The Spanish plate is really an unabahed masterpiece, there is not concern about gilding the lily both in the actual culinary contend of the dishes and the visual representations of these concepts, it's really something to behold.

The translaters were a bit ditzy, I wish they had had a crash course in molecular food words. It was a very long day with the festivities starting at 8 or 9 and going until, I believe 7 or 8, I ducked out after Chef Adria, as I'm a bit under the weather. There was a "Spanish Marketplace" which was really a bunch of Spanish food purveyors who had set up boots in order to represent their wares, mostly wine and the like. I could have lived without this segment, they were not really relevent products to this demo series, except the Texturas people. Though I did sample (over, and over again) some serious kickass morcilla from DeSpana (sp?) I'll be picking some up later today if this cold doen't hold me down. Anyhow, I got to meet some nice Egulleters Nina C, and Gerald! (the polka dots work) and Jayson Perlow..which was nice.

My biggest problem? The food didn't represent a single demo. I know, it was Spanish (the food) and I know the demos represented a really difficult style of cooking that would have been quite trying to replicate... but they could've tried?

It was nice to see all of my Chefs from FCI, too.

Those who missed, missed out

I hope they come back next year.

Another thing, I found Adria to be the least interesting and the most dogmatic of the lot. He went on and on about how he's not a culinary god, and how he couldn't do it without blah blah blah. I just wanted him to show us what made people consider him to be such a wizard. he kept repeating

"see this is so easy, you could do this if you had the technology and know-how"

um, duh. Not rocket science. I guess he so used to being treated like a god, that he has forgotten, that in the grand scheme of things...

[docsconz]

Thanks for the report, Emma, although I am a bit confused on on your comments on Adria. What was so dogmatic about what he had to say? What did his emo cover?

Also what other demos did you see?

I would love to read additional reports on this. It will be interesting to see how this compares to The World of Flavors Conference in Novemeber at CIA-Greystone.

Did anyone go to any of the dinners?

[foodite]

If anyone wants to see pictures, I've uploaded some here:

http://flickr.com/photos/gsanjose/sets/72157594329159911/

I'll be uploading more soon.

[Nina C.]

I'm working on my report, and I'm also waiting on a CD of photos from the PR office. I'll share my own with you as well, but due to the way things were laid out, not to mention my less-than-stellar photography skills, they aren't very good.

Just to quickly comment on the above, of all the chefs, Adria talked the most and especially about material that should be well known to most foodies. His work has been so documented; his spherical olives or melon caviar is not news to us. He did show two techniques that were invented in 2006 (I'm a tease! but I think Gerald has pictures of them).

[docsconz]

If anyone wants to see pictures, I've uploaded some here:

http://flickr.com/photos/gsanjose/sets/72157594329159911/

I'll be uploading more soon.

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Were the dishes shown on the screens in your photos produced in front of the audience then or were they from videos?

[Nina C.]

If anyone wants to see pictures, I've uploaded some here:

http://flickr.com/photos/gsanjose/sets/72157594329159911/

I'll be uploading more soon.

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Were the dishes shown on the screens in your photos produced in front of the audience then or were they from videos?

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It was a combination. Adria mostly used the video screen. Others used a mix of live and in person.

[docsconz]

If anyone wants to see pictures, I've uploaded some here:

http://flickr.com/photos/gsanjose/sets/72157594329159911/

I'll be uploading more soon.

←

Were the dishes shown on the screens in your photos produced in front of the audience then or were they from videos?

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It was a combination. Adria mostly used the video screen. Others used a mix of live and in person.

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Thanks.

[foodite]

I'm a little disappointed we didn't get to sample any of the products made in the demos - I would have loved to try some of Paco Torreblanca's creations - like the milk foam and glucose cookies.

And to anyone who was present, I completely missed the technique that Paco Torreblanca employed to create the liquor-filled beads/cylinders that were set in the cornstarch trays. Anyone catch the details of that?

Edited October 15, 2006 by foodite (log)

[docsconz]

I'm a little disappointed we didn't get to sample any of the products made in the demos - I would have loved to try some of Paco Torreblanca's creations - like the milk foam and glucose cookies.

And to anyone who was present, I completely missed the technique that Paco Torreblanca employed to create the liquor-filled beads/cylinders that were set in the cornstarch trays.  Anyone catch the details of that?

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Unfortunately samples at events like this are the exception rather than the rule. I don't think this is due to any lack of desire, but rather to difficult logistics as the sample would need to be made ahead of time. Finding the space, manpower to do so is a daunting task. at the recent Starchefs.com International Chefs Congress there were very few samples passed around to the audience for those very reasons. This could not have been any easier. Of course if the group is small or working in a particular restaurant's space, it is easier to accomplish.

[AlexForbes]

I was there, too, and was a bit overwhelmed, as were others, by the speed with which all

the information was being thrown at us. The pace was much faster than at the Madrid Fusion, on which this event was based, since they had to cram 10 chef demos into one day. The bad translation didn't help matters.

I'll soon post a full report, but here's how I would sum it up:

1- Arzak, as funny and cheery as usual, showed a neat sauce he made with carbonized (very burnt) leeks, which he whipped up with blood orange juice, and extra-virgin. Also showed a neat dessert of pineaple with a side of strawberry and milk in a shot glass, which then erupted like a volcano thanks to CO2.

2- Dani Garcia "poached" a mixture of dried peas, ham infusion and bread crumbs in liquid nitrogen, and served it with an egg.

3- Quique daCosta, who's written a stunning book on arroces (risottos, kinda, but not really), many of them bound not with fat but with aloe vera, made a foie gras that was simply steamed in the oven (he dislikes seared foie gras) and dusted with aloe vera powder, served with stevia (a plant 300 times sweeter than sugar and one of his favourite ingredients).

4- Martin Berasategui showed a few dishes, including cod cheeks topped with a thin veil of juice from cockles, with herbs and baby peas. Since dishes were so complex and multi-layered, a lot of the prep was shown on a video, which had been filmed at his restaurant.

5- Paco Torreblanca showed an amazing technique whereby he dries cornstarch, lays it on a baking sheet, pierces holes in it, then pours liquid into these holes. The liquid then solidifies on the outside. You end up with what look like little sweet pearls, with a liquid interior.

He also made an amazing sugar syrup with isomalt which he molded into gorgeous assymetrical cylinders, then put freeze-dried fruit inside of them.

6- Ferran described the different kinds of spherification, from the first, basic one he did to make, for example, melon caviar, to the latest, called encapsulation, which requires a pricey machine, and which allows him to spherify anything, even oil.

He also showed how he transforms coconut milk into a sort of eggshell, using liquid nitrogen.

7- Joan Roca explained his desserts inspired by brand-name perfumes, and made, with his brother Jordi, his Eternity by Calvin Klein. He showed a video explaining how he distills earth into a clear liquid, which he served with oysters (a very sophisticated surf and turf, meant to arouse emotion).

this is a very rough and incomplete summary, but should give you an idea of what the day was like.

Edited October 17, 2006 by AlexForbes (log)

[docsconz]

I was there, too, and was a bit overwhelmed, as were others, by the speed with which all

the information was being thrown at us. The pace was much faster than at the Madrid Fusion, on which this event was based, since they had to cram 10 chef demos into one day. The bad translation didn't help matters.

I'll soon post a full report, but here's how I would sum it up:

1- Arzak, as funny and cheery as usual, showed a neat sauce he made with carbonized (very burnt) leeks, which he whipped up with blood orange juice, and extra-virgin. Also showed a neat dessert of pineaple with a side of strawberry and milk in a shot glass, which then erupted like a volcano thanks to CO2.

2- Dani Garcia "poached" a mixture of dried peas, ham infusion and bread crumbs in liquid nitrogen, and served it with an egg.

3- Quique daCosta, who's written a stunning book on arroces (risottos, kinda, but not really), many of them bound not with fat but with aloe vera, made a foie gras that was simply steamed in the oven (he dislikes seared foie gras) and dusted with aloe vera powder, served with stevia (a plant 300 times sweeter than sugar and one of his favourite ingredients).

4- Martin Berasategui showed a few dishes, including cod cheeks topped with a thin veil of juice from cockles, with herbs and baby peas. Since dishes were so complex and multi-layered, a lot  of the prep was shown on a video, which had been filmed at his restaurant.

5- Paco Torreblanca showed an amazing technique whereby he dries cornstarch, lays it on a baking sheet, pierces holes in it, then pours liquid into these holes. The liquid then solidifies on the outside. You end up with what look like little sweet pearls, with a liquid interior.

He also made an amazing sugar syrup with isomalt which he molded into gorgeous assymetrical cylinders, then put freeze-dried fruit inside of them.

6- Ferran described the different kinds of spherification, from the first, basic one he did to make, for example, melon caviar, to the latest, called encapsulation, which requires a pricey machine, and which allows him to spherify anything, even oil.

He also showed how he transforms coconut milk into a sort of eggshell, using liquid nitrogen.

7- Joan Roca explained his desserts inspired by brand-name perfumes, and made, with his brother Jordi, his Eternity by Calvin Klein. He showed a video explaining how he distills earth into a clear liquid, which he served with oysters (a very sophisticated surf and turf, meant to arouse emotion).

this  is a very rough and incomplete summary, but should give you an idea of what the day was like.

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Thank you. That gives a very good idea. Some of these people will be at CIA Greystone for the Worlds of Flavors' "Spain and the World table" Conference next month. I will have to wait until then. Unfortunately, it is impossible for one person to see and experience everything there. I will do my best, though

[Luckylies]

Thanks for the report, Emma, although I am a bit confused on on your comments on Adria. What was so dogmatic about what he had to say? What did his emo cover?

Also what other demos did you see?

I would love to read additional reports on this. It will be interesting to see how this compares to The World of Flavors Conference in Novemeber at CIA-Greystone.

Did anyone go to any of the dinners?

←

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on.

[docsconz]

Thanks for the report, Emma, although I am a bit confused on on your comments on Adria. What was so dogmatic about what he had to say? What did his emo cover?

Also what other demos did you see?

I would love to read additional reports on this. It will be interesting to see how this compares to The World of Flavors Conference in Novemeber at CIA-Greystone.

Did anyone go to any of the dinners?

←

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on.

←

If anyone can speak to the way we must think about food in order to create it would be Adria. One may or may not agree with his stance, but I would think it would be very interesting and illuminating to hear his views on the matter. But then I may be biased as I admire his creativity very, very much.

[Luckylies]

Thanks for the report, Emma, although I am a bit confused on on your comments on Adria. What was so dogmatic about what he had to say? What did his emo cover?

Also what other demos did you see?

I would love to read additional reports on this. It will be interesting to see how this compares to The World of Flavors Conference in Novemeber at CIA-Greystone.

Did anyone go to any of the dinners?

←

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on.

←

If anyone can speak to the way we must think about food in order to create it would be Adria. One may or may not agree with his stance, but I would think it would be very interesting and illuminating to hear his views on the matter. But then I may be biased as I admire his creativity very, very much.

←

yeah I know, I find it hard to believe that I found him a bit boring. I just wanted him to be so much more. He reminded me of of those very excitable new teachers who just wanted to get the kids to like them and to see the simplicty behind the magic of science...I just didn't feel like he came to us on a very professional level. Most of know what he's been doing for the past year, so to introduce it like we'd have never seen it was a bit prosumptious.

[docsconz]

Thanks for the report, Emma, although I am a bit confused on on your comments on Adria. What was so dogmatic about what he had to say? What did his emo cover?

Also what other demos did you see?

I would love to read additional reports on this. It will be interesting to see how this compares to The World of Flavors Conference in Novemeber at CIA-Greystone.

Did anyone go to any of the dinners?

←

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on.

←

If anyone can speak to the way we must think about food in order to create it would be Adria. One may or may not agree with his stance, but I would think it would be very interesting and illuminating to hear his views on the matter. But then I may be biased as I admire his creativity very, very much.

←

yeah I know, I find it hard to believe that I found him a bit boring. I just wanted him to be so much more. He reminded me of of those very excitable new teachers who just wanted to get the kids to like them and to see the simplicty behind the magic of science...I just didn't feel like he came to us on a very professional level. Most of know what he's been doing for the past year, so to introduce it like we'd have never seen it was a bit prosumptious.

←

Who translated for him?

[AlexForbes]

These 2 girls in a booth translated for everyone, and you could hear them giggling sometimes. They were totally lost when Ferran started to go into the details of spherification. Annoying, really.

I have a different view of Ferran's "speech" - I loved it. He always makes me think. He was saying that if we had never seen water, we'd find it insane: transparent, tasteless, hard to define, and that we must approach everything with open minds, eyes, noses, palates, be always curious. And, most importantly, he cautioned younger chefs when using techniques such as spherification. He says before you can use a technique you must understand how, when and where it came about, and how it developed over the years - and not just buy one of this powders (Texturas) and start whipping up some spherified olives with liquid center or whatever other Ferran-"inspired" thing just for the heck of it.

What can I say? I am a huge fan, and enjoy listening to him.

[docsconz]

These 2 girls in a booth translated for everyone, and you could hear them giggling sometimes. They were totally lost when Ferran started to go into the details of spherification. Annoying, really.

I have a different view of Ferran's "speech" - I loved it. He always makes me think. He was saying that if we had never seen water, we'd find it insane: transparent, tasteless, hard to define, and that we must approach everything with open minds, eyes, noses, palates, be always curious. And, most importantly, he cautioned younger chefs when using techniques such as spherification. He says before you can use a technique you must understand how, when and where it came about, and how it developed over the years - and not just buy one of this powders (Texturas) and start whipping up some spherified olives with liquid center or whatever other Ferran-"inspired" thing just for the heck of it.

What can I say? I am a huge fan, and enjoy listening to him.

←

Thanks, Alexandra. Were you listening to him directly in Spanish or via the translators. If the former, were you able to get a sense of the adequacy of the translation?

[chefboy24]

*yawn*

just my opinion.

[hapacooking]

It was sold for $46K

It is interesting to note that Adria was not cooking at last night's Beard dinner - he was hosting. But the schedule does say Demonstration by Adria tomorrow. 

I don't know if it's too late to bid (and I'm sure you'd need to have deep pockets) but I thought someone here might be interested in this auction item.

http://www.jamesbeard.org/events/other/200...ion_stage.shtml

Summary of the package details:

    * A week-long internship at Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli in Cala Montjoi, Girona.

    * A week-long internship at Juan Mari Arzak’s Restaurante Arzak in Donostia-San Sebastián.

    * A week-long internship at Martín Berasategui’s Restaurante Martín Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria, San Sebastián.

    * One week of intensive Spanish lessons courtesy of the Foundation for the Spanish Language in Valladolid, the capital of Castilla y León.

    * A James Beard Foundation logo–engraved Wüsthof-Trident Culinar seven-piece Profile Block Set featuring a 2 ¾-inch bird's beak peeling knife, 3 ½-inch paring knife, 5-inch boning knife, 8-inch bread knife, 8-inch carving knife, 8-inch cook's knife, and the profile block.

    * A custom-tailored chef’s jacket by Chef86 in the designer fabric of your choice.

If you're unable to attend the event but would like to bid on one of these auction packages, please contact Yvon Moller at 212.627.2090 or ymoller@jamesbeard.org.

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[chefboy24]

oh my god

fourty six thousand dollars

to work for free

in 3 spanish restaurants

and get a $300 knife set and some spanish lessons?

jesus christ.

[hapacooking]

If I knew about it earlier, I would have bid higher than that.

[foodite]

I'd be curious to see what those "internships" are all about.

[chefboy24]

If I knew about it earlier, I would have bid higher than that.

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why bother?

buy a plane ticket to barcelona

walk in the door

and say you want to stage for a week, a month, however long

[docsconz]

If I knew about it earlier, I would have bid higher than that.

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why bother?

buy a plane ticket to barcelona

walk in the door

and say you want to stage for a week, a month, however long

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I'm not so sure that it works quite like that at the restaurants in that auction item. The people I know who have staiged at places like El Bulli and Arzak had to fight like hell and have recommendations etc. I'm not saying that it is not possible with persistence, but things are always easier with money.

[wawairis]

If anyone wants to see pictures, I've uploaded some here:

http://flickr.com/photos/gsanjose/sets/72157594329159911/

I'll be uploading more soon.

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Very nice!! Thanx for the pix.