StarChefs International Chefs Congress

[docsconz]

Keynote Panel: The Makings of a Four Star Restaurant

Chefs Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert, Moderated by Jay McInerney

Daniel Boulud arrived shortly before the 10AM scheduled start of this panel. He was warmly greeted by his colleagues and others.

Jay McInerny, the highly regarded novelist cum food writer and Eric Ripert flank Peter Elliot prior to the Panel.

The panelists confer with Antoinette Bruno just prior to their discussion.

The three on stage together.

Chef Daniel Boulud

Chef Eric Ripert

Jay McInerny

Photographed by our own Harlan Turk. I'm sure Harlan would be posting more pictures here, but he was working professionally for Starchefs.com.

The topic was about what separates four star (NYT) restaurants from non-four star restaurants. Both Boulud and Ripert had plenty of interesting things to say and McInerny did a great job of keeping the conversation flowing and en pointe.

All agreed that top-quality, delicious food was a basic requirement. Clearly many lesser ranked restaurants meet this level, yet fail to attain greater renown. Boulud was quick to emphasize that the difference belongs to the Front of the House. The service must be expert and seemless and the details luxurious. All agreed that the utmost must be done to make make the guest feel special and pampered. Ripert emphasized the importance of consistency. It is not sufficient to produce great meals only periodically. It must be the rare exception only and if that for a restaurant to get and maintain their ranking.

With all of that it is difficult for such restaurants to remain profitable as they tend to operate with lower margins than less ambitious restaurants despite often steep prices. food costs are certainly high as they buy top quality meat, seafood and produce from the best purveyors local or international. While staying cognizant of prices, they favor buildiing relationships with valued purveyors rather than haggling for the lowest price. Boulud mentioned an anecdote in which he had one of Johnny Iuzzini's desserts and asked his own pastry chef how come he didn't have the strawberries Iuzzini had even though they used the same purveyor! food prices are not the only high costs faced by these haute cuisine restaurants. The cost of table service is higher as well. The cost of a broken wine glass can be upwards of $25 compared to a dollar or two at less luxurious establishments. Boulud mentioned that he is planning to open a wine bar with food in Manhatten. Though that place will be less fancy, it will still utilize costly glassware.

The discussion moved on to entrepreneurship. In this area Boulud and Ripert are divergent. Ripert has had numerous opportunities and offers for various projects and restaurants, but with the exception of one in the Caribbean, he has preferred to maintain a more modest work schedule and lifestyle. Boulud, on the other hand, admitted to needing only two good nights of sleep per week. He thrives on working with his various restaurants while centering his time with Daniel. He is comfortable with the people he has placed in their various roles and their adherance to his overall vision. The restaurants are not clones of each other either. He stated that Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach is significantly different than the restaurant of the same name in NYC, as each reflects their environment and the expression of their respective chefs de cuisine.

The above descriptions are my recollections as best I can remember. I'm sure that there was more discussed and invite anyone else who was there to add his or her recollections or comments to this thread on this or any of the other discussions held.

[docsconz]

Having just started a new job, I was unable to attend many events at the ICC.  However, I did managed to make it to Pichet Ong's Asian pastry workshop on Wednesday afternoon.  I figure with the number of culinary professionals in the workshop, I'd be safe from having to do any real work.

No such luck! The workshop was "hands on" and Pichet was serious about the "hands on" part.

"Why are you not at the table?" He asked me. I tried to hide behind Chris Santo of Stanton Social to no avail.  Before I knew it, he was asking me how long it would take to peel all the water chestnuts in the bowl. I don't know. I've never cooked with water chestnuts. Thankfully, Elizabeth Faulkner, chef of san francisco's citizen cake took over and peeled those water chestnuts with great efficiency.  My slacker attitude didn't go unnoticed.  "Whenever you are ready you can take over," Pichet said. "Liz already knows how to do this, but you don't, so you should try it."

Luckily, the other attendees seemed genuinely interested in learning how to make Thai Jewels and the Kabocha tapioca.  Pichet's easy going attitude made asking questions easy. I learned a new trick to peeling bananas without getting my fingers dirty ("There is nothing worse then a hard working chef with dirty fingernails") and how to make Kabocha tapioca.  A hour later, making Thai jewels seemed to be in the realm of everyone's possibilities.  Although it would be much easier to wait until P*Ong opens, and get him to make it for you.

Making Thai Jewels

putting Liz Faulkner to work

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Thanks, Ya-Roo. That sounds like it was a lot of fun. I later had the opportunity to meet Chef Ong. He was certainly fun to be around. I, too am looking forward to the opening of P*Ong. Is NYC in the middle of a Pastry Renaissance, or what?

Should I be fortunate enough to get to attend this event again next year, I will make a point of attending at least one workshop.

[Bond Girl]

I can't get close enough for a great picture, but on the screen shows what Pierre Herme assembled on stage. The dessert is a symphony of lychee, berries and rose. Too bad the piece I got was so small.

[docsconz]

Chef Boulud hung around to chat for a little while after his discussion. Here are some photos:

Chatting with Chef Paul Liebrandt.

With Chefs George Mendes and Liebrandt. Chef Mendes was indispensible in the prep kitchen and very helpful to me personally. Thanks, George.

Chef Liebrandt showing some of his products to Chef Boulud and discussing technique.

What with all that foie gras, I had to get my head into the photo too!

[Bond Girl]

Here are some picture from the rising star party at Crobar. Highlights include: Micheal Laiskonis's pate de fruit on a stick, Paul Liebrandt's fish and chips, Morimoto's octopus on a skewer and Falai's foie gras and caviar on chocolate to go.

The rising star chefs

Paul Liebrandt and his fish and chips

Michael's desserts

R4D's Lychee, basil seeds, passion fruit and hibicus mousse

Paul and Will

The Room 4 Dessert team

[Bond Girl]

Did anyone one of you guys notice Michael Stipe of REM hanging around at the conference? And, anyone who wants to know the dirty gossip at Beds after party should pm me,

[docsconz]

I can't get close enough for a great picture, but on the screen shows what Pierre Herme assembled on stage. The dessert is a symphony of lychee, berries and rose.  Too bad the piece I got was so small.

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I'm sorry that I had to miss this. I love his Chocolate Desserts book that he did with Dorie Greenspan. The thread on it is IMO one eGullet's all-time greats. His Ispahan is seriously good stuff. I enjoyed an Ispahan Ice Cream Sandwich from one of his shops in Paris last year. I did get to have him sign a book for me though.

[docsconz]

Did anyone one of you guys notice Michael Stipe of REM hanging around at the conference?  And, anyone who wants to know the dirty gossip at Beds after party should pm me,

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I don't remember who took this picture for me, but Michael Stipe is the fellow cut off on the end Whoever it was must have been a total food junkie.

[tan319]

Stipe IS a total food junkie!

Thanks Bond Girl, 'doc, etc., for all of this great FUN stuff!

Really REALLY appreciate it!!!

[docsconz]

I will leave off tonight with a few miscellaneous shots.

Pichet Ong speaking with Antoinette Bruno

Myself with Jose Andres and Wylie Dufresne

George Mendes preparing tripe for Chris Cosentino's workshop.

The kitchen was beginning to buzz - Katsuya Fukushima, Johnny Iuzzini and Chris Cosentino

[Pan]

[...]If there was a flaw with this program it was that there was so much to experience and not enough time in which to do it all.

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That's the inevitable problem of well-attended, good conferences, in my experience.

[docsconz]

Marcus Samuelsson – Contemporary Pan-African Cuisine

Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit and Riingo, known primarily for his deft manipulation of the cuisine of Scandinavia spoke about the flavors of Africa, which he considers to be one of the last relatively untapped trends and on which he recently published a book, The Soul of a New Cuisine – A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa He noted the confluence of culinary traditions already having taken place in that continent, including in the Republic of South Africa. The Cape Malay, black African and various European cultures have melded to produce a very unique and delicious cuisine. Having been over in South Africa at this very time last year, I can personally attest to the joys of that cuisine and the quality and uniqueness of some of the ingredients employed there-in. I wanted to talk with him about this very subject, but alas, he had to hurry from the kitchen in order to catch a plane.

Of course his discussion was not limited to the south of Africa, as beguiling ingredients and dishes can be found throughout the continent. His demonstration was for a dish from his ancestral roots of Ethiopia. He explained the three basic building blocks of Ethiopian cuisine including injera - the bread served with each meal, nit’ir qibe- a base of rich spiced butter and berbere – a complex blend of spices. The dish he prepared was a stir-fried beef stew that incorporated a stream-lined version of berbere that he prepared..

Towards the end of his demonstration Chef Samuelsson was joined onstage by Peter Morales of wine importers, 57 Main Street for a discussion on pairing these foods with wines. The wines of South Africa are particularly notable and make great matches with this food. The varietal, Pinotage, was specifically mentioned as a previously much maligned one that has come a long way and is great for pairing with elements of this cuisine.

[Pan]

[...]Another workshop that I unfortunately was not able to make it to was Chris Cosentino's workshop on tripe. This would have been a perfect follow-up to a discussion of tripe held by the trio above during the present discussion. Each bemoaned the difficulty of getting unbleached tripe, a product each felt to be far superior for most uses to the bleached product.

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Why is tripe bleached? If anyone feels this would be better discussed in another thread, but all means point us to that thread, but I really wonder about this. I never knew tripe was bleached. And I guess my next question is, how do they make sure to get the bleach all out completely before the tripe reaches diners? I find chlorine bleach really gross in any context.

[slo_ted]

Wow. Nice coverage. I feel like I was there. Maybe next year. What a fantastic event. Do you have any video?

[docsconz]

[...]Another workshop that I unfortunately was not able to make it to was Chris Cosentino's workshop on tripe. This would have been a perfect follow-up to a discussion of tripe held by the trio above during the present discussion. Each bemoaned the difficulty of getting unbleached tripe, a product each felt to be far superior for most uses to the bleached product.

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Why is tripe bleached? If anyone feels this would be better discussed in another thread, but all means point us to that thread, but I really wonder about this. I never knew tripe was bleached. And I guess my next question is, how do they make sure to get the bleach all out completely before the tripe reaches diners? I find chlorine bleach really gross in any context.

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I think the simple answer is that the tripe itself is felt by some to look more appealing as a bleached white color. There may be other reasons as well, though the panelists clearly preferred the unbleached product.

[docsconz]

Wow.  Nice coverage.  I feel like I was there.  Maybe next year.  What a fantastic event.  Do you have any video?

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Thank you. I thought the conference was well worth going to. I don't know if the information presented, as good as it was, was particularly unique and groundbreaking to anyone who keeps up with the industry, but it was a fantastic opportunity for networking, seeing equipment up close, talking to various vendors in one spot and having a damn good time.

I do not have any video, though I believe Starchefs.com will be coming out with a DVD of the proceedings.

I would be happy to attend again without hesitation if I have the time available to me next year.

[MichaelB]

[...]Another workshop that I unfortunately was not able to make it to was Chris Cosentino's workshop on tripe. This would have been a perfect follow-up to a discussion of tripe held by the trio above during the present discussion. Each bemoaned the difficulty of getting unbleached tripe, a product each felt to be far superior for most uses to the bleached product.

←

Why is tripe bleached? If anyone feels this would be better discussed in another thread, but all means point us to that thread, but I really wonder about this. I never knew tripe was bleached. And I guess my next question is, how do they make sure to get the bleach all out completely before the tripe reaches diners? I find chlorine bleach really gross in any context.

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Not to hijack the thread, Pan; but the bleach is almost never all the way out when tripe leaves the processing plant. When you open a box, you can still smell the chlorine smell. I find that the tripe has to washed several times to eliminate the odor. I have never worked with the unbleached product.

[docsconz]

[...]Another workshop that I unfortunately was not able to make it to was Chris Cosentino's workshop on tripe. This would have been a perfect follow-up to a discussion of tripe held by the trio above during the present discussion. Each bemoaned the difficulty of getting unbleached tripe, a product each felt to be far superior for most uses to the bleached product.

←

Why is tripe bleached? If anyone feels this would be better discussed in another thread, but all means point us to that thread, but I really wonder about this. I never knew tripe was bleached. And I guess my next question is, how do they make sure to get the bleach all out completely before the tripe reaches diners? I find chlorine bleach really gross in any context.

←

Not to hijack the thread, Pan; but the bleach is almost never all the way out when tripe leaves the processing plant. When you open a box, you can still smell the chlorine smell. I find that the tripe has to washed several times to eliminate the odor. I have never worked with the unbleached product.

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Unbleached is apparently very difficult to find commrecially.

[Fat Guy]

I don't know if the information presented, as good as it was, was particularly unique and groundbreaking to anyone who keeps up with the industry, but it was a fantastic opportunity for networking, seeing equipment up close, talking to various vendors in one spot and having a damn good time.

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This strikes me as the problem with many such conferences: they're ambitious in the wrong ways. StarChefs pulled together an incredible group, but seems to have done very little with it. I suppose that's inherent in the StarChefs approach to everything. Still, I think most such events could stand to learn a few lessons from IACP and Southern Foodways Alliance, where they try to generate new thinking rather than just put on a show.

[docsconz]

I don't know if the information presented, as good as it was, was particularly unique and groundbreaking to anyone who keeps up with the industry, but it was a fantastic opportunity for networking, seeing equipment up close, talking to various vendors in one spot and having a damn good time.

←

This strikes me as the problem with many such conferences: they're ambitious in the wrong ways. StarChefs pulled together an incredible group, but seems to have done very little with it. I suppose that's inherent in the StarChefs approach to everything. Still, I think most such events could stand to learn a few lessons from IACP and Southern Foodways Alliance, where they try to generate new thinking rather than just put on a show.

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I wouldn't say that they didn't generate new thinking at all. The demos were wide ranging , well done and interesting. Watching Albert Adria's video was fascinating and beautiful. Just because a well-informed culinary professional might be well aware of these techniques, as they would if all they did was read eGullet , doesn't mean that there wasn't plenty to learn. besides, the real value of meetings like this and even in my own professional field of Anesthesiology is to get together with one's peers for insights and discussions. I thought this provided a fantastic opportunity for that invaluable process that simply can't be accomplished any other way. Steven, I would have to strongly disagree with your sense that they did very little with it. If my reporting doesn't show it better, that is my fault.

[docsconz]

My above comments are not meant to imply that there isn't room for improvement. Ther always is. However, considering that this was their first event like this, I think they did a remarkable job. Ideally I would like to see more time given to each demo with the chefs really having the ability to flesh out their techniques and have the Congress spread over a longer period of time. Of course the difficulty with the latter suggestion is that that require more time for many of the attendees to take from their busy schedules and would be more expensive to produce.

[docsconz]

Panel: Sustainability and the Professional Chef: A Discussion in Partnership with Chefs Collaborative.

Chef Peter Hoffman of Savoy, Moderator

Chef Todd Gray of Equinox.

Chef Traci Des Jardins of Jardinieres

Chef Greg Higgins of Higgins His restaurant was ranked #28 in Gourmet's "Top 50 Restaurants".

Chef Bruce Sherman of North Pond

Jenn Small of Flying Pigs Farm

This discussion was done in collaboration with Chef's Collaborative, a Slow Food-like organization of chefs devoted to issues of sustainability.

Their Statement of Principles:

Statement of Principles

  1. Food is fundamental to life, nourishing us in body and soul. The preparation of food strengthens our connection to nature. And the sharing of food immeasurably enriches our sense of community.

  2. Good food begins with unpolluted air, land, and water, environmentally sustainable farming and fishing, and humane animal husbandry.

  3. Food choices that emphasize delicious, locally grown, seasonally fresh, and whole or minimally processed ingredients are good for us, for local farming communities, and for the planet.

  4. Cultural and biological diversity are essential for the health of the earth and its inhabitants. Preserving and revitalizing sustainable food, fishing and agricultural traditions strengthen that diversity.

  5. By continually educating themselves about sustainable choices, chefs can serve as models to the culinary community and the general public through their purchases of seasonal, sustainable ingredients and their transformation of these ingredients into delicious food.

  6. The greater culinary community can be a catalyst for positive change by creating a market for good food and helping preserve local farming and fishing communities.

This basically sums up the underlying tenets of the discussion. Each of the chef participants discussed their roles and experiences in working with local, seasonal produce and their own reasons for doing so, even when it proves to be more expensive in the short term. Aside from ethical reasons, ll the chefs felt that the quality of the produce they could get was superior to more traditional channels and getting even better all the time as the US continues to embrace the concepts described above.

One of the major impediments to more chefs using quality, ethically raised produce has been cost. Jenn Small talked about issues facing her as a farmer. She noted that as more farms are making the choice towards sustainability that the support and equipment needed to do so are becoming cheaper and easier to find reducing the cost for everyone.

Other issues discussed included "certified organic" and "certified humane" labels. Ironically, these very labels tend to favor larger, more industrial producers, leaving the small farmer behind. While all felt that the techniques behind the labels are in general a good thing, there are high costs associated with those certifications that many really good small farms cannot afford. Jenn Small mentioned that a farming family earning $20-30,000 might have difficulty paying several thousand dollars annually for the certifications. The point was made that it is much more important to know the farmers than to simply go by the presence of any label.

The panel also emphasized that chefs are arbiters for the general poplation and if they continue to set the trend for local, seasonal produce, the general public will continue to follow.

All in all this was a rather thoughtful discussion on a topic near and dear to my heart. Indeed, Jenn Small's farm is near where I live and I consider she and her husband, Michael Yezzi, friends. One of the reasons I particularly enjoy about living where I do, is the quality of the local agriculture and the availability of reasonably priced, sustainably raised product from people I know and who i know care very much about what they are doing and why they are doing it.

While it might almost seem out of place to have had this panel in this program filled with exotic ingredients and precise, scientific ingredients, I don't think that could have been any further from the truth. A variety of delicious ingredients, exotic or otherwise, exist because their is variety in the world. Without sustainable agriculture and the people who choose to maintain that variety, even though it may be less profitable in the short term, we are all at risk for watching the culinary choices and quality available to each and everyone of us shrink into homogenized conformity.

Edited September 27, 2006 by docsconz (log)

[docsconz]

Paul Liebrandt: Artist or Artisan:The Role of a Chef

Chef Liebrandt getting ready for the stage with Michael Harlan Turkell.

Is there any doubt that Paul Liebrandt is extremely creative? I had never met the man prior to this Congress and I had never eaten a morsel of his food. His demonstration was simply fascinating. While there was not much discussion on the stage of the chef as artist, Chef Liebrandt and his crew simply demonstrated why that designation should be taken seriously as they prepared several items that were thoughtfully creative, technically precise, sinfully delicious and visually beautiful. The principal dish of Chef Liebrandt and his crew was a Foie Gras "Crispy".

Liebrandt's Pastry Chef, Jordan Kahn preparing ingredients for his demo.

Pre-demo kitchen conference.

Organizing croquants

Chef Liebrandt explaing his ingredients and techniques.

Sherry marinaded sous vide foie gras.

Scott Reisenburgher starting to plate the dish.

Slicing and plating the foie. The red cubes are sous vide prepared watermelon.

Chef Liebrandt showing a watermelon cube.

Building the dish with sucrose/glucose crisped croquants

Chef Liebrandt showing the translucent croquants.

The demonstration plate.

Jordan Kahn demonstrating a technique to make pastry swirls.

The wonderful Pacojet. No professional kitchen should be without one.

Passing around samples of the foie. The plate might not have made it past me if I weren't going to Jean-Georges for lunch.

My apologies to the Chefs whose demonstrations I missed including Pierre Herme, Masaharu Morimoto, Wylie Dufresne and Josh DeChellis. It was not for lack of interest or desire. I did, however, spend the time eating very well and that should make any chef happy.

Still to come, the home stretch of demos including Sam Mason, Davide Scabin and Sergi Arola; The Rising Stars Review and afterparty.

[BryanZ]

That's my kind of cooking.

[docsconz]

That's my kind of cooking.

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I dare say it is. I am very much looking forward to finally tasting a full meal at some point soon after Chef Liebrandt sets up shop in his next venture. I waited too long for Gilt. The few tastes I was able to get of his cuisine this week definitely left me wanting more. He did a dinner for members of the Congres the night before that was generating raves from those who attended. Alas, I was not one.