The Cooking and Cuisine of Lazio

[Pontormo]

Speaking of plates, I envy you for your earthenware. Italian?

The olives look like they're worth a shot. We all talked about the importance of antipasti in Piemonte, but Rome seems to be another place where one could have a veritable tapas party al' Itaniano.

As for bucatini, I still would like to know why De Cecchi calls it perciatelli and why Rustichella d'Abruzzo calls triangulated quills trennette, a word used for linguine up in Linguria. Then there's the dried, hollowed shape either Barilla or De Cecchi calls gnocchi...

[FoodMan]

Speaking of plates, I envy you for your earthenware.  Italian?

The olives look like they're worth a shot.  We all talked about the importance of antipasti in Piemonte, but Rome seems to be another place where one could have a veritable tapas party al' Itaniano.

As for bucatini, I still would like to know why De Cecchi calls it perciatelli and why Rustichella d'Abruzzo calls triangulated quills trennette, a word used for linguine up in Linguria.  Then there's the dried, hollowed shape either Barilla or De Cecchi calls gnocchi...

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No, none of the plates are that fancy. Not Italian, more like Swedish . I believe the orange bowls are from IKEA. As for the square white plates, I think my wife bought them from a lady at her work who sells "Pampered Chef" products from a catalog.

The olives are so more than worth a shot, they are addictive. All you have to do is saute some garlic, saute the olives in the garlic, then add the tomato sauce and simmer for a few minutes. That's all.

[mrbigjas]

As for bucatini, I still would like to know why De Cecchi calls it perciatelli

i looked this up when i made it the other day, and i think what i found was that which it was called had something to do with where people are from. like, in central italy it's referred to as bucatini, and in the south it's perciatelli?

something like that, anyway.

there are a bunch of pastas with different names depending on region, aren't there?

[hathor]

As for bucatini, I still would like to know why De Cecchi calls it perciatelli

i looked this up when i made it the other day, and i think what i found was that which it was called had something to do with where people are from. like, in central italy it's referred to as bucatini, and in the south it's perciatelli?

something like that, anyway.

there are a bunch of pastas with different names depending on region, aren't there?

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yes. yes and yes. In the way of Italy...as confusing as it possibly can be!

[hathor]

Pasca all Romana

Sunday was a gorgeous day in Westchester, NY. The original plan was to have aperitvo and nibbles outside and dinner inside, but the day was just too delicious to go inside, so it was Pasca Romana al Fresco!

To begin we popped a Proseco cork and nibbled on dates wrapped in bacon drizzled with honey. Not particularly Roman, but Mediterranean and delicious.

Then we moved on to carcofi alla romana. I used the basic recipe from Cuciana Italiana Ricette d’Oro.

Now it was time to begin the meal in earnest, and start using some silverware.

Primi: coda di bue cappeletti (oxtail stuffed pasta) with a spiced broth and fresh fava beans. So, my mother is helping me make the raviolis, and she wants to know: If you never see ox meat in the store, what do they do with all that ox meat and why do we only eat the tails?? Are there herds of tail-less ox wandering around?

Secondi: Agnello alla romana. A combination of the recipes from Ricette dl’oro and from Artusi’s “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.” Artusi’s book could use a shorter title. Basically it was leg of lamb on the spit, using rosemary branches as the brush to apply many layers of a wine/vinegar/salt/pepper mixture, and then for the last 15 minutes basting a rosemary/anchovy/garlic/olive oil/vinegar mixture. Have to say, it was simple and excellent.

Contorni: roasted asparagus and spring onions

Purree de patate con carcofi. I took all the outer leaves that get discarded when you are making the fried artichokes and scraped off the ‘meaty’ parts, braised them in chicken stock until they were mushy and then pureed them along with potatoes. Subtle artichoke flavor…worth the trouble.

Desserts were some very good key lime pie and berry tart. I didn’t make them. I suck at dessert….what can I say?? All in all, full bellies and smiles all around.

[hathor]

Complimenti and brava to Pontormo for her Golden Gulley award!!

Not to mention making that Fettucine all Romana...that sounds fabulous!

[Kevin72]

I just ate lunch and I am literally famished all over again. That lamb sounds and looks incredible.

[Pontormo]

Oh, cow-horned goddess, mate of the sun, protector of mothers and kings,

What a feast! Your stuffed pasta looks expertly made and gorgeous in the broth with the fava beans. I love your mother's question.

Everything in that meal looks perfectly orchestrated. It's great to see that you are going back in time to use S&A of Eating Well. I hope your guests had fun and appreciated the symbolism of the lamb which also evokes next month's region--a real contrast as well as complement to Kevin's more refined, sophisticated dish with the herby lemon sauce.

As far as the artichokes go, is there something different about the method or recipe you used that you think worth sharing?

[NYC Mike]

Mike: Look up thread a bit for references to cheeses from Lazio. I posted a few and I am pretty sure a link was added.

Of course, living where you do, you have access to the best sources of an education; I am sure cheesemongers will be willing to help you out. When you pick up a copy of Downie's book--which is the source of most of the things I've been making too--look in the back for businesses he recommends.

Thanks Pontormo I will look again. The cheese monger at Fairway 125th where I usually shop did not know (Lazio is where he asked me ) but Murray's website ( here ) shows the region next to the search item. I'll take a trip this weekend and ask about others since they are only showing Ricotta Salata from Lazio.

Hathor, Can you tell me how you prepared your carcofi for frying? They look great and I'd like to try.

-Mike

[hathor]

Thanks Pontormo for the complimenti...you made me blush.

The recipe for artichokes was nothing special, just what you would expect.

NYC Mike, it goes like this.

Step 1: trim the artichokes. Allora... this is somewhat easier said than done. If you have a globe (big, round artichoke), tear off ALL the outer leaves until you get to the inner area where the leaves will yield to slight pressure. (There is a lot of wastage here...hence the potato/artichoke puree that showed up later in the dinner...if you can find baby chokes,you have a lot less wastage.) Have a bowl of acidulated (lemon or splash of vinegar) water near by. Give the chokes an occassional dunk as you work to keep them from turning brown. Trim off a fair portion of the stem. When you are down to the soft yieldy part, halve, then quarter the choke. (Keep the parts you are not working on in the acidulated water). Now trim out the interior/spiky/hairy/thorny parts and discard. Throw back in the bowl until you have cleaned and trimmed all the chokes. Depending on their size, you can quarter or eighth them.

Make a batter of approximately: 2 eggs, 5 or 6 Tablespoons of olive oil, salt, pepper and 3-4 T of flour. Drain the chokes well and toss in the bowl, coat all the chokes with this nice batter.

In small batches, fry in 'abundant' olive oil...that's how the recipe describes it. Sprinkle a little salt immediately after removing from the pan, and drain on absorbent paper. E voila`! Mangia bene!!

Uh...Mike...you did want a full breakdown of the recipe right? Or did I just get carried away with artichoke rhapsody? Let me know how you make out at Murrays. I was planning on heading there if I had the time.

ciao!

[NYC Mike]

Uh...Mike...you did want a full breakdown of the recipe right? Or did I just get carried away with artichoke rhapsody? Let me know how you make out at Murrays. I was planning on heading there if I had the time.

hehe, I have been cooking for me and the little guys for just over one month since my wife started working nights. Prior to that, I never cooked a day in my life so more detail is better ! Thanks, I will try it this weekend!

-Mike

[Shaya]

Beautiful-looking dishes everyone. I just ordered Downie's book - hope to receive it before the month is out!

Kevin - that scafata looks great. The thing about cooking the "Italian way" is that it has really made me appreciate veggies so much. They just make everything taste so good. Did you find this after a year of cooking this way?

Mike, very impressive that you've only just started to cook and you are starting with the best! It's wonderful to see all these recipes and ingredients come to life before your eyes for the first time. Keep it up, your dedication is a great gift to both yourself and your family.

Pontormo, that ragu sounds wonderful. Did you mean that the recipe asked you to shred the meat off the bone PRIOR to cooking? If so, I would have done as you did, the bones just seem to add a whole new layer of richness.

Hathor, that is one beautiful meal, from start to finish. I love the poetry involved in making the artichoke/potato mash - this cuisine really is about making the most of each ingredient, and using scraps the way you did is brilliant.

[Kevin72]

Kevin - that scafata looks great.  The thing about cooking the "Italian way" is that it has really made me appreciate veggies so much.  They just make everything taste so good.  Did you find this after a year of cooking this way?

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I'm forever indebted to Faith Willinger by way of Mario Batali on learning how to cook vegetables slowly in olive oil with only trace liquid instead of blanching first and then sauteeing. Everyone really enjoyed the scafata and my wife's sister, who was in town visiting for Easter, started fondly recalling the braised broccoli and kale I made for them at Chrismas once. My wife called me "the vegetable master".

Faith Willinger's cookbook Red, White, and Greens is a great sourcebook on Italian-style vegetable cookery.

So, we've got two converts on Downie's book, eh? Good to hear, I think it really is excellent.

And Mike, you're just learning to cook? Bravo! Looks like we have a project, everyone!

[Shaya]

Faith Willinger's cookbook Red, White, and Greens is a great sourcebook on Italian-style vegetable cookery.

Thank goodness for our library - I've just put this book on hold! Thanks Kevin.

[NYC Mike]

Mike, very impressive that you've only just started to cook and you are starting with the best! It's wonderful to see all these recipes and ingredients come to life before your eyes for the first time. Keep it up, your dedication is a great gift to both yourself and your family.

And Mike, you're just learning to cook? Bravo!

Thanks to you both. This site has been instrumental in making it possible. These strings on the various regions of Italy have been especially fun since I can get the twins involved in the act and make it educational for them as well (they have their own Lazio project this month; to find our finale dessert via the internet). I have two 8s and a 2 so I learned very quickly that take out, even in its abundant variety in NYC, was not going to work. We also figured out that my wife after working 12 hour shifts M-F was not going to able to cook in the mornings before work for me to re-heat! (although I tried )

Up until now I have been what my wife calls a professional eater. I literally was not allowed in the kitchen for fear of breakage until very recently. The early results, both positive and negative have been amazingly gratifying, even if I only get to play with the dull knives! Comparing what I have made to a the same dish I have eaten elsewhere is great fun as well. Lots of what will I do differently next time or hmm how would I get it to taste like that etc.

But to bring it closer to topic, I really dived into these Italian regional threads because for me the cuisine lends itself to simple greatness through quality ingredients and simple preparations. AND you all make it look so easy which further breeds confidence!! The simplicity is really working for me and providing a great foundation.

-Mike

Edited April 19, 2006 by NYC Mike (log)

[FoodMan]

Hathor, that whole meal looks perfect! I so want some lamb on a spit now. Did you say those fried beuaties are called "carcofi alla romana"? Shouldn't they be "carcofi alla Guida"? The Romana ones are the braised ones, right? Am I being nit picky? I go back to work now....

[Kevin72]

Well, you picked a good month to start on, Mike. I agree that one of the many appeals for Italian cooking is how simple and straightforward alot of it is, and this is especially the case in my opinion with Rome. Welcome aboard and don't be afraid to pipe up and ask anything about any cooking questions.

[Pontormo]

Hathor, that whole meal looks perfect! I so want some lamb on a spit now. Did you say those fried beuaties are called "carcofi alla romana"? Shouldn't they be "carcofi alla Guida"? The Romana ones are the braised ones, right? Am I being nit picky? I go back to work now....

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I believe "alla Giudia" tradtionally refers to golden-fried artichokes without any coating other than olive oil; a batter would present problems during Passover, certainly.

Artichokes are Roman. Artichokes are the food of Italian Jews.

Regarding the rest you may be right, although Batali links fried foods sold on the streets particularly to Rome. I'm not sure why unless the obviously wonderful tradition migrated to other regions; there's a great little place close to Piazza San Marco in Florence, just around the corner that I used to sneer at in my "Holier Than Thine Diet" days until I caved in and developed a more generous attitude towards the pleasures of the world.

Regarding the names, though, you say "bucatini", I say "perciatelli"....

[Pontormo]

I have questions regarding Mozzarella in Carozza. Is it considered Roman? Most importantly, is it always made with slices of bread as in recipes I have at home?

I thought there was a version in which the cheese is breaded, but not prepared as a fried panino.

[Kevin72]

Most of the recipes I have for mozzarella en carozza generally attribute it to Naples and Campania, just to the south. A common Roman preparation for mozarella is to skewer it with cubes of bread and then saute them with olive oil and then make a sauce of anchovies and maybe capers or garlic to pour over them.

[FoodMan]

A common Roman preparation for mozarella is to skewer it with cubes of bread and then saute them with olive oil and then make a sauce of anchovies and maybe capers or garlic to pour over them.

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Homer-style: cheese with bread all fried up and tpped with capers and garlic..... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....

[Pontormo]

Actually, I asked about the mozzarella in carozza for a very specific reason related to Rome...which some of you may have guessed. Kevin, I appreciate the reference to anchovies very much since it's quite appropriate as it turns out. What you describe sounds delicious, yes.

I bought the mozzarella, but it looks as if I will need to buy an appropriate white bread.

[natasha1270]

Hi all! I'm just finding most of the past Cooking and Cuisine threads and thought I might join in with the very quick and simple dinner we had tonight...

Unfortunately no tomatoes at home, so I could not join everyone in making Pasta all'Amatriciana. And we must have hard-boiled all the eggs for Easter, so no Carbonara for us either...

Instead something to bridge the gap: Pasta alla Gricia (aka Amatriciana Bianco). EVOO, Pancetta, Red Pepper Flakes, Salt & Pecorino Romano. Alas, no parsley at home to add a little taste of green. I think it is time for me to make a trip to the grocery!

enjoy!

N.

Edited April 19, 2006 by natasha1270 (log)

[calimero]

Now trim out the interior/spiky/hairy/thorny parts and discard. 

This is not necessary if you buy carciofo romanesco - (roman artichokes). A different way to eat artichokes: making ravioli :

Ingredients: artichokes, asparagus, pecorino cheese, mentuccia http://www.agraria.org/coltivazionierbacee...e/mentuccia.htm, garlic, shallot, bay leaves, prosciutto crudo (cured ham), evoo, black pepper.

Trim and chop the artichokes and cook for few minutes in a saucepan with evo, chopped mentuccia, garlic and pepper.

Then, bake them for about 20-25 minute at 170 C. Then blend with grated pecorino and mentuccia.

In the meantime cook the asparagus reserving the water

and prepare the pasta dough with 200 grams of flour, 2 whole eggs and half egg shell of evoo; wrap with cling film and let it rest for 30 minutes. Use the rolling pin,

cut in stripes and put on the artichokes stuffing,

cover with another stripe

and cut.

Put the chopped asparagus in a saucepan with evo, chopped shallot, garlic and bay leaves

Remove garlic and bay leaves, blend and use the reserved water to make a tick sauce

Cook the ravioli in salted boiling water and serve with prosciutto.

[Kevin72]

Welcome, Natasha and Calimero!

The pasta alla Gricia looks great, Natasha. No parsley needed! I keep wanting to make it but I can't leave Amatriani out of the mix.

Calimero, also a great pasta contribution, that looks like spring in a bowl.

Frustratingly, in the U.S. the Romanesco isn't widely available, if at all. I can't believe someone out there hasn't cracked the code on making a choke-less artichoke. I think the vegetable would be much more widely accepted here if people didn't have to deal with the choke.