Humor In Dishes

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate members' input on restaurant offerings they have found humorous.  The humor might be conveyed through the name, appearance, composition, historical connotations or other aspects of a dish.

Below is A Bourdain's response to a comparable question posed in the Q&A:

In addition, your input on when humor can play a significant role in a dish (with any available examples) would be of considerable interest to me.  

As far as humor  or whimsy on a menu? I think it's a fine line--a razor sharp one. Only Keller consistently gets away with it. Most of the time, matters lurch quickly into the cutesy-and menus with "funny" or "ironic" or whimsically referential names  for dishes usually scare the hell out of me as misuse of the English language often sems to lead to misuse of food. I think subtle plays on classic dishes can work--and often do. But comedy and food rarely mix--at least from the diners point of view.

Below are J McManus' responses (quoting unavailable, due to locking of the applicable Q&A thread):

McManus: "Humor in dishes? Like what? A sailor’s hat on a softshell crab? Little Barbie high heels on the frenched lamb chops? Oh,  I’ve got it: a smiley face in brown sugar on the crème brulee!"

Cabrales: "On humor, here are some examples: (1) T Keller's dishes and their names (e.g., 'macaroni and cheese', 'oysters and pearls'), (2) the foie gras bonbons at the Pourcels' Jardin des Sens at Montpellier (which have a concentric-circle-like swirl of burgundy-colored sauce resembling a bulls'-eye), (3) the inclusion in the db bistro moderne burger of bits of braised short ribs, which are reminiscent of Boulud's short ribs at sibling restaurant Daniel, and (4) as other members on the board have mentioned [see A Balic], the use as garnishes in a dish of ingredients with which an animal/fish was associated during its life (e.g., turbot cooked in a salt crust, wild boar with chestnuts). I hope the above helps clarify the egg/humor question."

McManus: "That DOES help, thanks. I've had oysters and pearls and macaroni and cheese by Keller. They were out of this world, of the planet. Would I have felt differently if they had different names, no. But I think someone like Thomas Keller and the others you mention can pull it off. But please I can't stand too many cutesy things on the menu."

[Steve Plotnicki]

Cabrales - Art is all in the name. Of course that's an exageration but, a large part of it is. Switching to art, and that painting at the Sensation exhibit that caused such a ruckus with Giuliani, if the artist didn't say it was the Virgin Mary who had the elephant dung on it, most people wouldn't have been able to tell. Of course certain things are more obvious than others, like Keller's Coffee and Donuts. It would be whimsical without the name. But the Pourcel's Bonbons are not obvious, and need the title to help us get there. Would the bonbons be whimsical without the name?

[Liza]

Aren't bonbons by definition whimsical? I mean, with a name like bonbons...

[cabrales]

Below is an excerpt from L Brenner's "The Fourth Star", regarding Boulud:

"Across the small cranny from the canape cook, . . . the chef garde-manger sauces a plate, arranges strips of marinated raw tuna in a perfect rectangle onto the sauce, places several pieces of sauteed veal sweetbreads on top of the tuna. This tongue-in-cheek take on vitello tonnato looks like a painting. He garnishes it with baby mache (lamb's lettuce) and celery leaves."

Note I am not knowledgeable about vitello tonnato; perhaps the humor may be apparent to other members.  

[wingding]

Whoopie pies.........As an aside ,I can't stand desserts that look like bridges,clowns,or stoves.Or chopped liver statuettes...No graven images with my food!

[cabrales]

As members may know, wingding is referring to Le Cirque's desserts. Below is an article with pictures of certain desserts:

http://www.s-t.com/daily/03-98/03-04-98/c01ho089.htm

In the article, Jacques Torres (who has since left the restaurant) observes: "Fortunately, my job allows me to be very whimsical. My boss [Maccionis] has been very supportive of the zany creations I have developed over the years."

[wingding]

I have tremendous respect for Jaques Torres as a craftsman and chef.I just have a very different aesthetic-there's plenty of room in the world for all of us!

[Gavin Jones]

I instanced in another thread a kitsch version of the 'full english' served as a starter at interlude de chavot (fried egg (quail's) fried slice (of brioche....)

There are a number of directions one could take trompe l'oeil (bouche). E.g .serving dishes which had the appearance of savoury dishes but were sweet (or vice versa).

Or a jelly which was transparent but matt, that the diner might not be able to see - so served an 'empty plate'.

Or caviar on a black plate.

INversion of order in some sense - is another direction one could go.

The innately theatrical nature of some restaurant experiences lend themselves to a farcical interpretation.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Wingding - How do you feel about the famous dessert made by the pastry chef of the King David Hotel in Jerusalem honoring Anwar Sadat's visit to Israel? It was a cake of a pyramid and the Wailing Wall I believe connected by a bridge.

I am just making a joke but, sometimes architectural desserts are appropriate. If I was at a place like Le Cirque, and my dessert came out looking like the NYC skyline, I would find that appropriate if it worked as part of the dessert. But forced aesthetics are bad in any dish, or come to think of it, any thing.

[Jinmyo]

wingding, I am entirely in agreement with you about Torres.

[wingding]

Silly desserts make some people very happy....god bless 'em.Just don't ask me to do it.I spent many years working as a textile designer,and over the years,as the market changed,I had to do more and more corny work to make ends meet.At the same time my own tastes were changing.I began to see much more beauty in simple lines and textures.I changed careers,and now cook.I like simple elegance in taste,texture,and presentation.It's something I strive for,successfully or not.Someone like Thomas Keller,with lots of talent and experience,can make whimsical food that is,at the same time,quite elegant.It's a matter of personal style;you can have fun eating a dish without bells,buzzers and clown hats...

[Jinmyo]

Yes, Keller's sense of humour is elegant and does not distort the food itself and reminds me of Japanese aesthetics. Torres' (just as an example) reminds me of the elaborate garnishes made by Chinese chefs that just have nothing at all to do with the food itself.

[cabrales]

Do members have input on whether humor might play a role in certain dishes at Park Avenue Cafe?  

http://www.jamesbeard.org/events/2002/02/003.shtml

(Bio of Murphy on James Beard site notes, among other things, "Murphy helped establish a distinctive New York style of cooking and food presentation, using both drama and *humor* to emphasize flavor and taste. A recent review of his cooking at Park Avenue Cafe by *"Fat-Guy" Steven Shaw* noted that his dishes are still as 'visually arresting' as they are delicious.")

[Wilfrid]

Cabby, with respect to vitello tonnato, it is usually a very light dish, involving extremely thinly sliced pieces of veal in a tuna dressing.  Replacing the pale wafers of veal with sweetbreads and using a piece of raw tuna is, indeed, cheeky.

I remember a dish created by Philip Britten when he was cooking at The Capital in London which I found amusing.  A large plate came to the table covered with a cloche, which was whipped off to reveal what looked like a very miniature burger and chips.  Turned out to be foie gras in a miniscule brioche bun, with very small French fries.  Funny in its immediate visual effect, but also tasted good.

[Jinmyo]

Wilfrid, what was the dish called? (Tiny chips. I like that.)

[lizziee]

Art Culinaire is a wonderful source for researching "humor in dishes."

In Volume #45, there is a section featuring David Burke and his interpretation of sandwiches. For example he does a "smoked salmon hero with egg salad" - the hero is actually made up of salmon skin which is the "bread", filled with mascarpone cheese, salmon slices, cucumber and lettuce.

In Volume #54, Michel Richard is featured with a number of whimsical desserts such as "Sugar Coil with Pistachio Tuiles"(it looks like a holder for napkins - the sugar coil - with the tuiles in between the coils). Another is Michel's Bag of Apple Fries with Apricot-Ginger Sauce." The bag is made of won ton wrappers and the apples are cut to look like French Fries.

Trama at Puymirol likes to add a surprise element to his food. I have mentioned elsewhere (France - Puymirol) about his duck pot au feu served in a foie gras glass container.

Rostang does a take on a grilled cheese sandwich - instead of cheese it is filled with black truffles, but you eat it like a sandwich. (As an aside, I am not a fan of Rostang, but this dish was extraordinary).

Of course, I agree that Thomas Keller is a master of this - fun without being too cute.

[Wilfrid]

Wilfrid, what was the dish called? (Tiny chips. I like that.)

Sorry, Jinmyo, I don't recall.  It was part of a tasting menu, and may well have been an unannounced entremets.

[cabrales]

Rostang does a take on a grilled cheese sandwich - instead of cheese it is filled with black truffles, but you eat it like a sandwich. (As an aside, I am not a fan of Rostang, but this dish was extraordinary).

lizziee -- Yes, I have taken in that sandwich, and afterwards sampled a dessert shaped to resemble a cigar. That was slightly amusing, obviously, because cigars are also sometimes taken after savory courses in a meal. (Note I found neither the truffle sandwich nor the other courses taken at Rostang tasty.)  

Also, there is an argument apple desserts at Bouley contain some minor amount of embedded humor, given the history of apple baskets at the old Bouley and the apple racks at the current Bouley (a play on decor/associations).  When I last visited, one of the desserts was: Apple orchard prize, slowly baked apples with caramel and phyllo crunch, cinnamon ice cream.

[cabrales]

If names matter, how about the Fat Duck red pepper lollipop, served before the presentation of desserts? Perhaps it's also the association of lollipops with immaturity/childhood times that renders its sampling at a restaurant for adult diners arguably amusing.

http://forums.egullet.org/ikonboa....85;st=0

(General background on FD meal)

Also, FD (or some other restaurant I've eaten at recently?) offers green cotton candy (apple flavored?) at the end of a meal.

[lizziee]

Cabrales,

For the record I completely agree with your take on Rostang although the truffle sandwich 3 years ago was good. The cigar dessert is a direct "steal" from Trama. I talked about that in the thread about oysters and pearls in the UK thread.

[Lord Michael Lewis]

I found this wittiness on Chowhound:

A while back I posted a message on a few boards including this one to get some "traditional" british party food for a farewell do for a British diplomat here in NYC - well here is the final menu as served last Friday night - a smashing success I might add

We made it fun and whimsical as well as delicious. Hope you enjoy reading it.

Continuous Passed Hors D'Ouerves and Stations of Food

***A Whimsical Fusion of British and American Traditions with a touch of Paradise Twists and Appealing Presentations***

Butler Passed Finger Food

" Britain's Best - Mini Yorkshire Puddings of Roast Beef, Horseradish Cream & Gravy

" G & T Olives - Gin Infused Giant Olives Wrapped in Puff Pastry

" Maryland Crabcakes Drizzled with Wasabi Cream

" Classic Two Bite Burger - Mini Opened Faced Angus Beef Burger

with Pickle Chips & Heinz Ketchup

" Bangers and Mash - English Sage & Herb Sausage with Piped Mash Potato Passed on a Silver Spoon

" Bloody Mary Shrimp Shooters - Passed in Vodka & Tomato Infused Shot Glasses

" Stilton Bytes - Stilton and Sundried Cranberry in Puff Pastry

" Rosemary Lamb Satay with Mint Jelly

" Cows in the Comforter - Kosher Beef Hotdogs in Pastry with Ball Park Mustard Dip served out of a Catcher's Mitt in a Field of Wheat Grass

" American Gigilio Quesidilla - Grilled Cheese, Crispy Bacon, Tomato & Scallion

-best grilled cheese ever!!!

" Bagels and the Times - Bite Sized Bagels and Lox Served on the Sunday NY Times

" Little Italy Mushroom Risotto Bundles - Luxurious Flavors in a Filo Package

" Enchilada Tartlets - Southwestern Cheese and Chili Tartlets

" Brighton Fish and Chips - Passed in Individual Paper Cones

Fusion Food Stations

Late Night Takeout Station, from NY to London and back

- served in Chafing dishes and trays- plated in individual sized Chinese take out containers

" Auntie Dai's Chicken Dumplings-

" Stir Fried Veggies in Garlic and Black Bean Sauce

" Chinese Fried Rice

" Sassy Samosas - Crispy Piquant Samosas with Vegetarian Potato Fillings

" Tandoori Chicken Marsala with Basmati Rice Pilaf

Crudite Display with Cheese and Fruit Station

Stilton, Darby, Rondele, Grapes and Strawberries

Sunday Lunch Station served from chafers and platters and plated in a Martini Glass

Tex Mex Sheppard's Pie

Roast Loin of Pork with Cranberry Relish

Georgia Sweet Potato Souffle

Over the Pond Pacific Grilled Salmon with Bow Tie Pasta

Cheesy Southern Corn Bread

Vidalia Devilled Eggs

I Scream You Scream We all Scream for ICE CREAM - make your own sundaes

" Platters of Mini Cookies

" Old Fashioned Creamy Ice Cream and Assorted Toppings - Hot Fudge, Sprinkles, Caramel, Fresh Fruit, Marshmellow Fluff, Nuts and Whipped Cream - Cones available

" S'more Station - Cooked to order - toasted Marshmellows, Hershey's Chocolate Bars and Graham Cracker Goodness…

Thanks tigerwoman.

[cabrales]

LML -- I should have known you couldn't resist an FD reference.  

[wingding]

Once upon a time,my family went out for a celebration dinner at a Chinese restaurant in Westchester.We decided to go all out and order the 'Captains' Meal'.Well,it was tasty and all,and for the dessert finale,they came out with a gong,banged the gong with great ceremony,and served us some fried bananas and ice cream,or something like that.We were too busy laughing to notice,and what the hell,it made the celebration more fun....humor in dishes[unintended humor is WAY more funny to me]

[cabrales]

Speaking of Chinese restaurants, there is a dish (previously mentioned by another member somewhere on the board) involving vermicelli and small bits of meat (beef or pork, typically?). The Chinese name of the dish is literally translated as "ants crawling up a tree", based on the general visual connotations of the dish.  

[Sandra Levine]

Welsh rabbit.