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Posted

Definitely some interesting events coming up. Good topic, Daniel. It would also be interesting to hear perspectives from those cooking at the events. I know they are expensive for the chefs to produce.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Posted

While I was attending ICE (Institute of Culinary Education) last year, I had a chance to do 4 dinners. It is definitely a challenge for chefs, particularly since they are away from their restaurant kitchens. They are limited to the equipment on hand at the Beard house unless they schlep in their own (which some do). Also, they generally cannot afford to bring their full compliment of staff and have to rely on culinary students for some portion of the work. These things give an advantage to chefs in the city because they have their resources (staff, equipment, ingredients) close by. Given all that, it is surprising how well the dinners come out

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

Posted

I am a very minor investor in one restaurant, which is in Seattle, Washington - Nell's. Chef Phil Mihalski was all set to do his dinner at the James Beard House - on Sept. 11, 2001. He cooked and donated his food to the relief effort.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Posted

I'm a culinary student in NYC and I'm scheduled to work the Waldy Malouf dinner next week. I'm looking forward to the experience. Some of the kids in my class have had good experiences at JBH, some of have had not so good. One girl said the first time she was there, the chef seemed grateful to have the help and ended up giving the students some leftover wine. But the next time, the visiting chef just acted like the students were in his way or something. Which maybe they were, but that's too bad.

As far as I know, the students from my school have mostly just done the plating at these dinners.

I requested to work the Jonathan Benno dinner on 8/31, as I plan to intern at Per Se, but I don't know yet whether I'll be approved for that one. Boy, I hope so. :cool:

Posted

The Benno dinner for $125 for non-members sounds like a great value. Of course it comes without Per Se's excellent service and special ambiance.

Posted

JBH is offering a special student price of $55 for the dinner on Monday, 8/15. The chef will be Vikram Garg from Indebleu in W.D.C. I have my reservation!

I followed up today on whether I'll be able to work the Per Se dinner on 8/31. The contact lady told me they are looking for people who have had a lot of volunteer experience at JBH, so that pretty much counts me out. :sad:

But if all goes well, I should get my fill of the Per Se work ethic in a few months. :biggrin:

Posted
It would also be interesting to hear perspectives from those cooking at the events.

I've cooked at a Beard House event. A few years ago, I was invited to participate in a latke competition there. I had to prepare latkes for 70 people. There were three professional chefs and three amateur contestants. (Incidentally, mine were voted best overall by the people in attendance!) After the latke competition, a dinner was prepared by the kitchen team from Shallots, an upscale kosher restaurant.

Anyway, just as the Beard Foundation was recently the subject of scandal for its failure to devote a serious portion of its millions to its scholarship program, it should come as no surprise that the money also hasn't been directed towards creating a decent kitchen. The Beard House kitchen is a disgrace by the standards of the contemporary upscale restaurants the Foundation seeks to represent at its events. The equipment is second-rate, the design is poor and it's extremely difficult to work cleanly and efficiently. It would have been much easier to produce latkes for 70 in my mediocre kitchen at home than it was in the Beard House's disaster of a kitchen.

And yes, it is very expensive, especially for out-of-town restaurants, to present dinners at the Beard House. Not only do they have to pay for all the food and transportation, but also they are typically expected to purchase a table's worth of seats. I for example have never paid to attend any of the dozen or so Beard House dinners I've been to, because the restaurants often invite media to fill the tables they have to buy.

I've had some good and some bad dinners at the Beard House. Mostly mediocre to bad. Some chefs can pull it off. But, you might ask, why do they bother? Well, there seems to be a widespread belief out there that if you put on a Beard House dinner two things will happen: 1) You will curry favor with the Beard organization and therefore be more eligible for a James Beard Award, and 2) You will score publicity points with a hardcore foodie audience, which will help your restaurant build buzz among those who matter.

I can't speak factually to point number 1. To the extent it's ever possible to believe anything anyone at the Beard Foundation says, the awards are not affected by participation in the dinner program. These days, it may actually be true because those who administer the awards have taken a big step away from the Foundation's general activities. But until the awards are administered by a truly independent body, a cloud will hang over them.

With respect to point number 2, it's nonsense. The attendees at Beard House dinners are not some magical distillation of the tastemaker class. Indeed, whenever I've been to Beard House dinners, I've looked around and said, "Who the hell are these people?" They seem mostly to be secretaries and assistants from companies that support the organization, rounded out by a group of older folks whose primary distinction seems to be that they go to a lot of Beard House dinners. The journalists who attend are mostly second-tier people (like me!) and they almost never write about the dinners (I've written about a few, which is probably a world record).

In my opinion, a restaurant would be better served by doing a New York dinner somewhere else. Many local restaurants here are happy to host out-of-town chefs for special events. I've been to several such dinners, at restaurants ranging from Tabla to San Domenico, and at pretty much every level they are much more successful than Beard House dinners. It would be great if there was an organization that could pair local restaurants with visiting chefs and promote those events in the gourmet community. Maybe someday we'll have the resources to do such a thing here.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Posted

All financial and other bullshit aside, I have fond memories of cooking at JBH during my stint at (the then) Peter Kump's New York Cooking School. I must've gladly helped there 3 or 4 times for visiting chefs, and our class of 11 or 12 did our graduation dinner at the house - it was a resounding success, and it felt really great to cook in Beard's old kitchen. Never had a problem cranking out the dinners, either.

I've also seen and tasted some pretty damn good food come out of kitchens no bigger or better equipped than that one.

Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"

Tasty Travails - My Blog

My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs

Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?

Posted

Wow, the crew from Moto cut their menu a lot.. I just cancelled my reservation, just in case anyone else was going tomorrw night..

Posted

Well, I just heard from JBH today, and I'm so excited because I get to work the Per Se dinner on August 31! :biggrin:

They told me that I will be the only student volunteer that night. Suddenly I'm nervous. Thank goodness the website has a floor plan of the kitchen.

Maybe I'm a little bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, but I should hope that chefs would want to do a JBH dinner in order to further the Foundation's mission: the advancement of the culinary arts in America. Maybe some of them are recipients of Foundation scholarships, and want to give something back.

Or maybe Steven's right and it's all a load of hooey.

In any case, it's a tremendous opportunity for students like me to work, in however minor a capacity, with some of the most interesting chefs in America.

(la de da :rolleyes: )

Posted

Scottie,

Congrats congrats.. Please report back with your experience.. I am really excited for you..

Posted (edited)

Instead of the quail there is duck..

They removed the veal course and replaced it with nothing.. Maybe the Maki Rolls in the beginning..

They switched the pork belly with bacon and swiss chard with kentucky fried ice cream for short ribs with collard greens and sweet potato...

Basically, I think the Maki Rolls are going to have the ink jet print on them.. I dont really like the fresh squeezed orange soda at Moto and I am thinking the best thing on the Short Ribs dish will be the cool way he will most likely link the potato together..

I also dont like the switching so soon to the date.. Makes me think something might be wrong.. Either way, I am sure its going to be a great dinner...

Edited by Daniel (log)
  • 2 months later...
Posted

So excited.. Frank Stitt, is comming on the 29th of November.. I love his cookbook and am looking forward to meeting him.

MENU

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I have long considered a membership, but there are so many good restaurants in the city that I have always had a hard time deciding if I would eat at the Beard house enough to make it worth while or if I would find myself wanting to go to more restaurants instead.

One thing that seems interesting is the Food and Beverage Professional's Directory. Have those in the industry who are members found this worthwhile?

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

~ Fernand Point

Posted
I have long considered a membership, but there are so many good restaurants in the city that I have always had a hard time deciding if I would eat at the Beard house enough to make it worth while or if I would find myself wanting to go to more restaurants instead.

. . .

That's the problem. When a local chef is cooking there, I'm convinced the food will not be up to what I can get at his own restaurant for a number of reasons including the fact that he has to donate the raw material and that the working conditions are less than what he'd have in his restaurant. For the same reasons, I worry that out of town chefs won't come off as well either. On the othr hand, this may be as close as most of us can get most of the time.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

Posted (edited)

I make it a point to go to the Beard House for out of town chef's or special dishes.. I.E I went there for a Haggis Dish and a flight of scotch.. I was going there for a local chef.. The chef of Onera.. But I find the menus are often not as extensive as the chefs restaurant and the prices are certainly more expensive..

Edit to add: This truffle dinner Above is the link I would like to go to for several reasons.. I have wanted to try Eve in Alexandria and would love to try a truffle dinner.. This looks like one of the more impressive dinners happening this month...

Edited by Daniel (log)
Posted (edited)

I was a member for a couple of years, but let it lapse in light of 1) the scandal and the impending reorganization, and 2) less disposable income in my pocket. I had a number of great dinners there, and really enjoyed it. However I'm reticent to knowingly put my money into the hands of folks who have a history of allowing an embezzler to operate unchecked.

When my disposable income rises again, I'm going to compare the membership of the board to what it was back in the bad old days, and if there is enough change, then I'll write 'em a check again.

I've never had a bad meal at the Beard House, and some of the meals have been damn good, so I'm not going to say that this decision is based on poor quality product... It is just my own cooling-off period to let them get the house in order.

Edited by cdh (log)

Christopher D. Holst aka "cdh"

Learn to brew beer with my eGCI course

Chris Holst, Attorney-at-Lunch

Posted (edited)

Had a terrific meal there the other night when Frank Stitt was there.. We kind of got pretty wrecked, so the pictures and the account are not all that great..

Here is a copy of the menu

gallery_15057_2056_340388.jpg

During the cocktail hour spiced pecans, oysters, and cheese puffs were served..

gallery_15057_2056_629361.jpg

gallery_15057_2056_388994.jpg

Here is the man Frank Stitt working with the poached eggs fir the salads.

gallery_15057_2056_504212.jpg

Guinne Hen Pate: Awesome!

gallery_15057_2056_761515.jpg

Stuffed Rabbit : Awesome!

gallery_15057_2056_187844.jpg

Gorgeous baked merrengue: Awesome!

gallery_15057_2056_602302.jpg

What a great night and was so excited to meet the man who inspired me to start cooking..

Edited by Daniel (log)
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Jan 12 brings some big names to the Beard House.. link

" This evening, the Beard House will host four of the school’s venerated deans, each with his own impressive résumé: Jacques Pépin, Alain Sailhac, Andre Soltner, and pastry chef Jacques Torres. "

Hors Devours

Mushroom Pithiviers

Croque Monsieurs

Salmon in Nori Leaves

Profiteroles au Fromage

Terrine Maison aux Truffes

Dinner:

Le Cirque Lobster Consommé with Medallion

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 1999

Le Pavillon Oven-Roasted Striped Bass

Domaine Chandon Chardonnay 2003

Classic Braised Beef à la Mode Lutèce

Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Merlot

Sprinkling of Mâche with Abbaye de Citeaux

Jacques Torres Fontaine of Chocolate and Raspberries

Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge

Mignardises

Edited by Daniel (log)
Posted

Nothing like a few homey croque monsieurs with Andre, Alain, and the two Jacques! I guess they're holding back on the fried egg to keep the evening simple, oui?

You going, Daniel? Anyone else?

Chris Amirault

eG Ethics Signatory

Sir Luscious got gator belts and patty melts

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