Venice Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations

[docsconz]

Trattoria Busa Alla Torre

Campo Santo Stefano, 3

Murano

041.739.662

I believe this is for lunch only. It is a fine place to stop for a bite of lunch on a fine day in Murano. We ate outside in the pretty square.

I had an acceptable, but unastounding grancheola - local crab salad served in the shell with a bit of lemon dressing. Fried calamari was fresh, tender and excellent. My son had lasagna and then steak with peppercorn sauce, both of which were decent if uninspired.

The seafood menu was fairly extensive. Unfortunately, my son is not a big seafood fan and I can only eat so much. Very pleasant.

[docsconz]

La Zucca

Osteria con Cucina

San Giacomo dell'Orio

Santa Croce 1762

041.524.1570

This was probably the best meal we had in Venice. The place is compact without many tables. It is not particularly fancy, but the food is good, especially the vegetables. The service was also friendly and efficient.

My son started with orechiette with pomodori and ricotta fresca, which he enjoyed. I had orechiette with gorgonzola and pine nuts - very good. My main was duck with orange sauce and fabulous rice. The duck was tasty, but somewhat overcooked. My son ordered turkey with radicchio and balsamico. This dish was fantastic. The turkey was smothered with braised radichio and balsamic. It really worked as a unique combination. He didn't really like it, so we switched. In addition we had some pumpkin flan with ricotta "stagionata" , that was excellent and cheese smothered spinach that was soul-warming.

The desserts were outstanding. I had a fine panna cotta with honey and almonds, but my son had perhaps the best chocolate mousse I have ever tasted.

I concur with the recommendations from others. This is good food at a very reasonable price.

[docsconz]

Trattoria alla Madonna

Calledella Modonna, near Rialto

041-5223824

I was looking for moleche, small soft-shelled crabs and a fishmonger at the market recommended this place.

I started with an extremely tasty risotto con frutte di mare. This was a well prepared risotto with tasty seafood broth and plenty of shell-less shellfish. The moleche were my main course. They were served simply fried with lemon. They were very much like soft-shell blue crabs only they could be eaten whole. I would have liked to try them prepared in different ways, but these were good.

For a "touristy" restaurant near the Rialto bridge this was pretty good/

[docsconz]

Osteria Da Fiore

This was supposed to be the splurge for our last evening in Venice and in Italy. I thought I had a reservation. I even asked American Express to confirm it for me. we arrived at the appointed time, only to find it closed with the restauranteurs in NYC!

Next time I go for Alle Testiere!

[docsconz]

Bentigodi - Osteria da Andrea

via Farnese Calasella

Cannaregio, 1423

041.716.269

This is the restaurant we wound up in after we found Da Fiore closed. When I realized we were without a destination I stopped in a nearby bookstore to check out the Slow Food Osteria guide 2004. I found a restaurant that wasn't too far away that looked promising. We went there and it did look promising -it even had a sticker on its door with my motto - Life is too short to drink bad wine. I thought that maybe the Da Fiore closure was going to be a blessing in disguise, except that the restaurant didn't have any tables for the next two hours. I pleaded with the waiter, but there was nothing he could do to get us a table there. He did however, recommend Bentigodi and even called to make a reservation for us.

We took the long walk there to be seated at the same table as and next to a young german couple. The couple was fine, but unfortunately this turned out to be the least enjoyable meal of our entire trip. There wasn't anything on the menu that appealed to my son, and truthfully not much that appealed to me. He started out with crostini with ricotta and arugula that were very bland. I started with seafood lasagna (with bronzino) that was ok. This was a popular dish, ordered it seemed by most of the people in the restaurant. My son had a sausage dish recommended by the waitress - fair, while I ordered the Venetian classic "sarde in saor" or sweet and sour cured sardines. I had never had this before. I love fresh sardines, but this dish didn't do it for me. I'm not saying it was a bad rendition. I just didn't like the dish. Perhaps it is an acquired taste.

The restaurant doesn't take credit cards. The best thing about it was that it was inexpensive.

[Bill Klapp]

Alle Testiere

Calle del Mondo Novo 5801

Castello

(041)5227220

I recently partook of Alle Testiere, which quickly became my favorite eatery in Venezia. My wife and a friend had a stunning cream of pumpkin soup with a half-dozen grilled scampi watching over it from the side of the bowl. I started with whole calamari (those magnificent 3-inch long, purple fellows with their wings still intact) stuffed with radicchio, in a sauce touched with cinnamon, cloves and other pie spices. Fantastic! A couple of us split a plate of spaghetti with the tiniest, sweetest clams I have had in a long time, and there was also sushi-grade tuna, served up with soy (a little too much, actually) and ginger in a Japanese antipasto, and then grilled lightly for a perfect entree. One of our party had sole for her entree which, good though it was, remained sole. I had a John Dory (orange roughy in other parts of the world) that brought tears to my eyes. It was dressed in a fresh citrus sauce, and advertised as served with "fines herbes". Yeah, well, "fines" did not begin to describe the tiny bits of impeccably fresh and pungent herbs that decorated my fish. I believe that a caper or two made its way into the mix, too. In truth, the chef loves to experiment with non-traditional herbs and spices, and he is not always successful. And for that I am most grateful, because, but for the occasional off-center offering, Michelin would have parted with a star by now. The service and the wine list were both superb.

[Bill Klapp]

Al Mascaron

Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa 5225

Castello

(041)5225995

I did not make it to Da Fiore this trip, but I did make it to Al Mascaron. In many ways, Mascaron is in perfect contrast to Alle Testiere: it starts with the same impeccably fresh seafood (the cannochie, or mantis shrimp, a scampi relative, were literally jumping out of the bowl at the bar), but they serve it up simply, and not without a little attitude (mostly grumpy). Seafood, pasta, house red, house white, check. Absolutely delicious, but Alle Testiere stands for the proposition that trattorie in Venezia that are willing to ramp it up a notch or two can work miracles with the local raw ingredients. Other than a decent pizza in the Dorsoduro, I did not eat another memorable meal during my stay in Venezia.

[Shannon Essa]

Many of my favorites are here (especially Osteria da Alberto and La Zucca) but thought I would turn you on to a fairly new place called Boccadoro (in Campo Widman, very near the Church of the Miracoli in Cannaregio.) The chef is said to come from the kitchen of Al Covo, but I had a great meal there - one I expected from Al Covo and did not get. Incredibly fresh seafood, with a sort of Asian theme (sea bass sashimi, tempura style fritto misto). The owners are a couple, he from Sardinia and she from Piedmont (I think.) It is a sweet little place and the owners couldn't be nicer. My favorite moment? A brit sitting next to us yelled to the waiter, "scusi! Il conte, per favore, we have a concert to attend." Poor guy, he didn't know he was asking for the Count.

[vmilor]

Fiascheterra Toscana

Very near Rialto bridge.

They run out of most seafood as the night progresses because they buy fresh things in limited quantities.

Besides they have a good and fairly priced wine list.

Last meal there: 23 november 2003.

[Joe H]

Testiere was excellent-again. An absolute must for any visitor to Venice.

Avogaria was truly horrible. Absolutely wonderful interior-we really wanted to like this place. But the food was just abominable. I know of no other way to say it. Most tasted warmed over from several nights.

Galeon was a surprise, very good overall.

Still, based on seven visits to Venice in ten years, Testiere is a must on every trip, Al Covo and Galeon are similar, slight edge to Galeon both two notches below Testiere. da Fiore excellent but horribly overpriced; perhaps along with Testiere Venice's best. But with a rate of exchange of $1.24 da Fiore is now $350 for two with 40 Euro wine. Because of cost I would not return.

[vigna]

I had a wonderful pranzo at Osteria da Fiore in late November. Although the meal was quite costly, I certainly think it was worth it and I am puzzled that comments in this thread indicated that the restaurant is highly overpriced for what is served. The total cost of my meal was 122.50 Euros (92 Euros for food and 20.50 Euros for beverages). On my recent trip to Italy I ate at three fantastic restaurants: Osteria da Fiore, Cracco Peck, and Le Calandre, each spectacular in its own way. I would gladly dine at any of these establishments again, even at the prices charged! Here's a description of my lunch:

Finding the da Fiore was more difficult than I thought. After a traghetto crossing from Ca d'Oro, I wound my way through the San Polo quarter in the general direction of the restaurant. Due to construction work on some of the small canals, I had to detour quite a bit and even some Venetians seemed baffled by the backtracking through the maze of canals and walks. Eventually, I reached my destination but didn't recognize the restaurant due to its modest entrance and facade. After a few more minutes of walking in circles, I finally found the place and was welcomed warmly (I had faxed ahead and reconfirmed my reservation for a table for one by phone the previous day).

I was seated in a long somewhat formal room, not too far from the only window looking out on the little canal. Most of the other diners were foreign and the restaurant was far from full (the host later told me that they are regularly completely full at dinner). The host was extremely friendly and I felt comfortable right away. I noticed no set meals on the lista and asked if there was a menu gastronomica. I was offered a combination of antipasti, followed by a zuppa, and portions of two secondi as an ersatz menu gastronomica and the host was very clear about the prices: 23 Euros for the three antipasti (normally, this is the price for a single antipasto course), 10 Euros for the zuppa (one half the normal portion cost of 20 Euros) and 46 Euros for the secondi (this is a normal price for one standard second course). I took the host's recommendations for each course. Very fair, I thought.

Also very fair was the cost of wine. As I was dining alone, I didn’t want to order a whole bottle of wine. I was offered a half liter of house wine, which turned out to be an excellent Soave Classico, poured from a newly opened full bottle, at a total cost of 13 Euros. A liter of aqua minerale gassata was 4.50 Euros.

The meal started off spectacularly with a complementary degustazione of tiny whole shrimp fried in their shells -- exquisitely fresh and sweet, served with delicious thin fried zucchini slices and a ball of white corn grits.

Next, in succession, arrived my three antipasti, each a nice sized portion. A carpaccio di tonno was fantastic. The thinly sliced tuna was covered with fresh herbs and olive oil, surrounded with pieces of zucca (pumpkin), and served with slices of toasted bread (in addition to the nice toasted bread and grissini already on the table). This was the best carpaccio of tuna I have ever eaten. The next antipasto course was a mound of spider crabmeat, served cold, with a tasty mayonnaise. The crab was delicate and very fresh. Third came one large glazed scallop served very hot in a giant scallop shell (the normal portion was three of these). This was also very tasty.

The next course was from the "primi," a zuppa with a leek and potato base (I surmise) and pieces of various crustaceans. I never did get the name of the soup or did I find out what the shellfish were. This was really delicious (the host had highly recommended this dish as a specialty).

For the two main courses, I had first a local soft shelled crab -- moica (spelling ?) -- from the lagoon, fried in a light batter -- almost like a tempura -- very interesting delicate taste, served with delicious greens and more of the white corn grits. The second of the main courses was an extremely fresh seared branzino (the best I've ever had) served with balsamic infused pears, apples, and I think what was fresh basil.

Desserts were 13-16 Euros and a cheese selection was 20 Euros. I opted for the vanilla gelato in pie crust with poached pear in a red berry sauce -- nice and refreshing, and not too heavy. With my espresso (3 Euros), I was offered a plate of cookies.

For the quality, freshness, and uniqueness of this meal I did not consider the cost extravagant. (I am not sure how Joe H. spent 300 Euros for two, probably the wine was the main difference, although two people eating the meal I ordered would have spent just 184 Euros for food.) In my opinion this was at least a two star (Michelin) experience. I enjoyed this meal more than a lunch at Gambero Rosso last year, for example, but admittedly the food is not as inventive as at Le Calandre. The strong point of da Fiore is fresh, exquisitely prepared local seafood, and the atmosphere is welcoming. I will post my impressions of Cracco Peck and Le Calandre on another thread.

[Joe H]

I said that da Fiore was $350 for two with 40 Euro (US $50) wine. You had a meal that cost 122.50 Euros which is US $151.90 (@1.24 exchange) + tip. At da Fiore there is nothing factored into the bill for the tip. Therefore if we double your US $151.90 and add a conservative 15% we arrive at US $349.37. (122.50 X 1.24 X 2 = US $303.80 + 15% (US $ 45.57) = US $349.37.

Sorry, I was off by 63 cents. I also hope that you left a tip otherwise your reception may not be quite as friendly as you think when you return.

da Fiore is arguably one of the two or three best restaurants in Venice. Having said this it is not any better than Testiore but at least 30 to 40% more expensive. I believe that it is overpriced. I stand by my comments: US $350 for dinner for two with 40 Euro for wine is too much for da Fiore. I should also note that twelve years ago da Fiore was no more expensive than any other restaurant on its level in Venice. With Patricia Well's reviews and various acclaimations as well as the single Michelin star it's pricing has gone through the roof. This is a very good restaurant. We agree on this. What we disagree on is that Alle Testiere is as good for 70% of the price.

As for Le Calandre, well, this is the best restaurant in Italy. At 125 Euros prix fixe it is a steal.

[vigna]

Apologies to Joe H for not noticing that he had written $350 and not 350 Euros. I erred in adding up my meal and beverage costs -- they were only 111.50 Euros, not 122.50 Euros. But with a tip of 15 Euros, the total came to 126.50 Euros (or $158). So, on a per person basis, the costs for our meals at da Fiore were indeed fairly close. I do not disagree with him about Alle Testiere -- I have not yet had the opportunity to try it, and if it is as good as da Fiore as he maintains, it is an excellent value. I will definitely try to dine there on my next Venice visit. I would still maintain, however, that in comparison with other top restaurants in Italy (and elsewhere in Europe), da Fiore is well worth the cost.

As for tipping, my Italian friends never leave 15%, even at a top restaurant in Italy. Their range is 5-10% on top of the bill. I sometimes go higher (as in the case of da Fiore), but rarely. I'd like to hear the opinion of others on what is an appropriate tip.

Other Venice restaurants I enjoyed in the past two or three years were Vini da Gigio, Trattoria alla Madonna, Al Covo, and Da Mario alla Fava. None of these places came close to da Fiore (in quality and interest of the food, and in cost). Vini da Gigio was really excellent, though. I did not enjoy a meal at Do Forni in November -- fairly indifferent food and service, very crowded and smoky, and overly expensive for what I ordered -- 83 Euros for two courses, wine, and service.

[Hallie]

Da Fiore

Not impressed. Visited them last week while in Venice: 13 May 2004.

Unfortunately we could only get a table for lunch. As Venice's only 1 star restaurant (and I have no idea how they maintain it as the service we experienced was terrible!) they were booked up weeks in advance.

The food was good, but hardly the best meal we have had in Italy over the years (Il Principe in Pompei, also 1 star receives that honour). I had an artichoke and truffle pecorino salad which was fine. A prima of seafood ravioli (very good) and a prawn and artichoke heart gratinee as a seconda which was really nothing special. My dessert; lemon and liquorice sorbet did not work at all - too much liquorice overwhelmed the lemon. What really disappointed, however was the service. After our second course we were totally ignored! Everyone in the dining room recieved petit fours with their coffee but us. We had to ask the wait staff for coffee after lunch, we had to summon them again for liquors and to ask for dessert menus. After our second course arrived, we were left to top up our own wine glasses. The wait staff passed our tables several times and just looked at us, as if they were off shift. This is hardly what we expected for the prices printed on the menus.

Perhaps things are better in the evening...

Edited May 17, 2004 by Hallie (log)

[anil]

Al Gatto Nero

Burano

A hidden gem off the beaten path. very homely feel to the place. If you sit in the front portion of the restaurant you can see right into the kitchen which is behind the bar.

Their risotto is excellent, and so is seafood antipasto. The dessert is not that great.

[Patiod]

Thanks to everyone on eGullet, my recent trip to Venice (June 16-21) was full of excellent meals! In fact, I joined so I could thank everyone, and make a report

Banco Giro (041 523 2061) was just as described. Lovely little wine bar with a few tables right on the Grand Canal - be sure to ask for a table outside. No “dinner menu” but I had two appetizers which were enough dinner: the branzino carpaccio (thin slices of branzino sushi), and a raw-tuna/tomato/mozzarella salad were amazing – the two best dishes I had in Venice.

I was in Venice interviewing physicians, and two of them (independently) suggested the same place: Ostaria Rioba (041 5244379) or "Da Rioba", about a block past Paradiso Perduto on the Fond. Miseracordiain in Canneregio. The appetizer (branzino salad w/citrus) was nicely made if a little bland, but I wasn't thrilled with the 1st course -- listed as “spaghetti with shrimp” it was actually chef-boyardee-quality spaghetti with two big langoustines. Dessert was an amazing, delicate tiramisu. I would recommend the place, just not the pasta.

My clients treated me to an expensive dinner at Ai Gondelieri (041 528 36 96), and it was just as good as everyone here said it was. We could’ve saved money by 1) ordering cheaper wine and 2) not ordering a second course – none of us wanted it by the time it came and it was expensive. But the mushroom risotto was jaw-dropping, as were the snails.

I also had a really nice little cold seafood-plate lunch at Trattoria Da Fiore (not to be confused with a fancy restaurant everyone argues about ) I think it was right off the Campo S.Stephano.

And if you’re stuck in the S.Marco area, La Chat Qui Rit on the Calle Frezzaria is a very reasonable little cafeteria-style restaurant with outside tables. Again with the cold seafoold-plate lunch, which served me well throughout my trip.

[Alberts]

Osteria Alberto, 5401 calle Giacinto Gallina, in Canneregio-- right over a bridge.  (Addresses can be confusing in Venice)  A wonderful little place with terrific food and no tourists.  Off the beaten track in the "interior" Canneregio, just on the border of San Polo.  Went a couple of times on different trips and it was great.  Lots of appetizers to choose from and point to in the front before you sit down.  (Has pasta and Secondi piatti as well)

We agree. Had an excellent, if not exceptional, meal at Osteria Alberto. Pictured below is the special that night...pasta with mussels and fresh tomatoes in a garlic broth, also grilled vegetables. We had an uninspired octopus salad which was fine, but not much flavor.

The service was outstanding (particularly as we were with kids), the place was easy to find (within a block of the big Ospedale in the Cannareggio), and mostly full of Italians. Overall, it was a good deal for unpredictable Venice.

[Shannon Essa]

Alberts, you are killing me. When I lived in Venice, Osteria da Alberto was the closest restaurant to my house - I ate there all the time. Looking at your photo is making me very homesick for my old Venice 'hood.

Oh well, only two months and four days till I go back.

[Alberts]

Osteria Alberto, by the way, has a good selection of fresh fish, as would be expected. We had grilled whole Branzino as a secondo, a mediterranean fish similar in taste and texture to sea bass, with olive oil and lemon. No picture of this. Ate it too quickly.

[cmvnapa]

One note about Ristorante FIASCHETTERIA TOSCANA in Venice: the restaurant is in Buon Ricordo so if you are collecting plates and order the Frittura della Serenissima, remember to get the plate.

[Kevin72]

I also had a really nice little cold seafood-plate lunch at Trattoria Da Fiore (not to be confused with a fancy restaurant everyone argues about ) I think it was right off the Campo S.Stephano.

OK, a simplistic question here but is Trattoria Da Fiore at all related to Osteria Da Fiore? I gather they are not as nothing I have (including the cookbook) says that they are but I was wondering if there's any story and/or animosity behind such similar names. Are Italy's copyright laws more lax?

To really confuse things, we went to "Bar Da Fiore" affixed to the trattoria mentioned above when doing a "cichetti crawl" one night. Good stuff but certainly nothing on par with what's being written in this thread.

[plragde]

Here are some places we enjoyed in July 2004. Our meals for four, with

copious amounts of sparkling water but only a half-litre or single

bottle of house wine, came to between 100 and 130 euros.

Alla Zucca: The reviews above do a good job of describing it, so I'll

confine myself to recommending that you reserve the single table in

the centre room with the canal view for a Monday meal, when the fish

market is closed. Desserts were as inventive as everything else on the

menu.

Trattoria do Mori (Giudecca): Reportedly a former chef from Harry's

Bar. We wanted to sit inside, but they discouraged this, and later,

when we went in to wash, we found the interior full of men -- they

looked like workers having some sort of communal lunch. Out on the

fondamenta, we had seafood risotto, gnocchi al grancino (crab), and

some nicely grilled fish (branzino, sogliole, orate). Good view over

the Giudecca canal.

dalla Marisa: On the Fondamenta San Giobbe. Reserve in advance,

especially at weekends, for a set meal on the fondamenta (the interior

looks as if it would hold about three people). We, along with everyone

else, had: a series of antipasti: raw branzino (sea bass) marinated in

lemon, olive oil, and herbs, served with rucola and thin strips of red

pepper; baccala mantecato with a thick texture, not beaten into a

paste; whole small octopus (polpo or folpeti) cooked in a spicy

tomato-based sauce; mussels topped with breadcrumbs and baked; and a

large platter of polenta. For primi we were served seafood lasagna: no

cheese, no tomato, but fresh pasta, besciamella (bechamel sauce) and

bits of mixed seafood. Finally there was a frittura mista of squid,

scampi, and flatfish. Dessert was crema di mascarpone (mascarpone

custard), thick, rich, and alcoholic, served with thin rusks. This was

the largest restaurant meal we had in Venice, and it was a good thing

we were staying quite nearby. The matriarch comes from a family of

butchers, and her meat dinners are supposed to be legendary.

Osteria da Rioba: We had to eat here, because it replaced a very nice

salumeria that we used to frequent. Dishes included schie con polenta

(not actually the tiny gray schie, which I couldn't find at the

Pescheria either, but slightly larger pink gamberetti); filet of

branzino on shaved fennel; orate ai ferri (grilled sea bass); coda di

rospo (monkfish) on bed of roasted zucchini and carrots; spaghetti

alla busara (with fresh tomato sauce and scampi); torta di pere e

cioccolato, tiramisu, crema di mascarpone con amaretti. A little

austere, but good attention to presentation, and an attempt to let the

food speak for itself. Mentioned in the Slow Food Guide.

Ribo: out near the Papadopoli Gardens, this is the place to go if you

want a fancier experience (covered garden seating, waiters dressed

better than you are) at not too great a cost. We had baccala mantecato

served with grilled two-colour polenta; saltata di caparozzoli e cozze

(steamed clams and mussels); moscardini lessi (small octopuses, cooked

and served cold on shaved fennel); filleta di sogliola in saor;

spaghetti ai caparozzoli; gnochetti con scampi (shelled, much to my

daughter's relief) e porcini; ravioli di branzino con granseola. All

was good, and we had the place mostly to ourselves at lunch.

Anice Stellato: a really nice meal. Take along Jeffrey Steingarten's

list of Venetian seafood terms to translate their extensive daily

specials. We had a mixed plate of cichetti along with capelunghe

(razor clams) and folpeti (baby octopus); then penne with sugo di

baccala, diced olives and capers; calamaretti fritti (small whole

squid, about an inch and a half long), and a frittura mista. These

last two plates arrived straight from the fryer, and unusually for

Venice, included many fried vegetables as well (e.g. slivered

eggplant, zucchini).

Vecio Fritolin: We were headed for Bancogiro for our last lunch when

we came across this place (also mentioned in the Slow Food Guide) and

changed our minds. Double antipasti misti (sarde in saor, canoce,

folpeti, baccala mantecato on white polenta, alici), tagliolini con

canestrelli (small scallops) e fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers), and

fritti misti that were closest to the "bottom of the net" ideal we

remember from our earliest trips to Venice. There was only one other

party in the restaurant.

[pepe]

We've been in Antiche Carampane and found so good to repeat, we also found a url in www.antichecarampane.com. the service was wonderful and the other clients also (the tables are so close you can speak with them like with your couple). The adress San Polo, 1911 tel 0415240165, if you come from Rialto is easy to find, go to calle Boteri, stop at the Vino Vino and take an italian nouveau of merlot and cabernet and continue to the Carampane.

[pepe]

Fiaschetteria Toscana.

I think is a must in Venezia we've been there in Nov. 20 is like we remember and a good price.

Dinner for 3 with 2 plates each, 2 deserts, 2 cofee, 1 grappa, wine and mineral water, 159 Euros.

We wil return!

[pepe]

Ae Oche.

The last, a very good pizzeria and not expensive, the other advantage is that is near to Zucca, if you don't found place there.

Ae Oche is at Santa Croce, 1552 a/b tel. 041 524 11 61.

A bad experience was Ai Coristi near la Fenice, we don't were hungry so take the menu, not good and expensive