Osteria Via Stato - Chicago

[gmi3804]

Five days after its opening, this new Lettuce Entertain You concept is hummin' along like a well-oiled machine. The service is already polished, and the food was, for the most part, tasty and filling.

With no menu per se, the idea is that the whole table eats the same progressive Italian dinner, with only the meat entree changing for each diner. There are eight or so choices for the meat course, and each person at the table can choose his/her own. Chunks of parmaggiano reggiano with aged balsamic are presented with the wonderful bread basket. Our dinner last night started with several antipasti (house-cured salmon and capicola with shaved celery, thinly sliced proscuitto, and a heavenly carmelized fennel with parmesan), served by waiters strolling with platters. Next came two small pasta dishes (panzerotti, a rich mini ricotta lasagna; and oricchiette with lemon and olive oil). After that, our entrees arrived. Four of us sampled three different dishes: two of us had the hearty, smoky pork shank braised in veal stock with root vegetables; one had the rich (but exceedingly fatty) short rib in a rich demi glace with parsnip puree; and one had the veal tenderloin, cooked to the requested medium-rare. Meat dishes were served with family-style rustic roasted potatoes with rosemary, and caramelized carrots. This three-course dinner is $35.95 per person. We met the gregarious Belinda Change, sommelier, who helped us choose two bottles of wine for our meal; we declined the wine pairings in preference to some nicer full bottles, though the pairings were available at three price points, from economical to expensive. We shared two desserts: a bland panna cotta and a rich, moist pistachio cake.

The comfortable lively (read: loud) room is dimly lit and rustic. The dress is "dressy casual," with quite a few men in jacket and tie.

Despite the concept's sometimes heavyhandedness (the dessert menu felt the need to have include a description about why gelato is richer than regular ice cream), the seriousness of the 400-bottle wine list marks this Rick (TRU) Tramonto-partnered venue as a serious (and unique) new contender among new Chicago restaurants. I'd go back again in a heartbeat, provided I could snag a reservation.

[Colgate]

As being a new member (of both eGullet and the Chicago dining scene) I was quite impressed with Osteria. I dined there on Saturday night for some nibbles at the bar and thought that both the food and service were far above a restaurant that was only a week old.

We several of the a la carte items, which included:

1. Marinated Olives with Garlic: the oil that accompanies is delicious to dip your bread into

2. Grilled Fennel: which I think is the star of the bunch, as it's crunchy and soft and sweet and salty--delicious!

3. Cured Salmon: wish the portion size was a little bigger, but good

4. Cured Salumi: nice and the celery salad that comes with it was really delicious and well-seasoned

The most interesting thing I thought was that in looking at the menu, the main courses aren't all that Italian (Short Ribs, Monkfish). In fact, we saw a lot of Staub pots in the dining room, which are of course from Alsace, France. The room is very cozy and warm and the wood-burning fireplace is great. Looking forward to seeing this evolve.

[ronnie_suburban]

Thanks for the information, Colgate and welcome

I'm genuinely surprised that it's taken until now for this dining concept to be tried here. I can't remember anything like this in Chicago until now. Having been to Italy, this concept seems like a natural. I hope it succeeds, catches on and spawns imitators.

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[ronnie_suburban]

Chris LaMorte didn't exactly love it.

From the Chicago Tribune's metromix.com...

Promises, promises. Osteria may already be earning a bit of buzz with local foodies, but we found that while the food may show potential--still, don't expect Tru at this price--the experience left us scratching our heads at times.

Turns out that the $15 wine flight included a four-ounce tasting of 2002 Torresella Pinot Grigio, Veneto Pinot Grigio (yep, the stuff that goes for $11.99 a bottle at Osco); a 2001 Stefano Farina Primitivo di Manduria with an awful kerosene bouquet (find it at Sam's for $8.99 a bottle); and an OK glass of 2002 Santa Anastasia Nero d'Avola.

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[jesteinf]

We went to Osteria on Friday night and I would have to disagree with Metromix.

Yes, there are some kinks to work out (no one told us about the wine flights, you don't really get descriptions of the appetizers), but overall we had a great dinner. The pasta course was a highlight (fantastic duck ravioli).

For entrees, I had the short ribs and my girlfriend had the skate wing. Both were excellent.

The place was packed when we arrived at 8:30, and was still going strong by the time we left 2 hours later.

I'm rooting for this restaurant, if for no other reason than I think it's a great concept. The service will come around in time.

[ronnie_suburban]

Yeah, jesteinf, your comments match up with almost all of what I've heard and read about OvS. I'm hoping to get there this Saturday...it's just a babysitter away

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[chefseanbrock]

this restaurant rocks in all aspects, the concept is awesome and the food was might tasty............i loved everything about it and will be flying back to chicago just so my girlfriend can experience it(she is crazy about italian) it has to be the best deal in chicago, and it is kind of like a tasting menu, you don't know what you are going to get until it hits the table...............everyone should check it out....and if you don't like it was only 35 bucks..........

[gmi3804]

I'm confounded at Pat Bruno's 1-1/2-star review of OSTERIA VIA STATO.

To each his own, I suppose. He seems to have had a big problem with the service. If things start happening too fast for me (anywhere), a polite, "please slow down," usually does the trick. And even though things do seem to start coming at you pretty quickly once you sit down, the pace slows way down to a most enjoyable one once the antipasti are finished being served.

[inventolux]

I'm confounded at Pat Bruno's 1-1/2-star review of OSTERIA VIA STATO.

One more reason why online reviewing should replace dictatoresque reviews.

Edited January 15, 2005 by inventolux (log)

[gmi3804]

I'm confounded at Pat Bruno's 1-1/2-star review of OSTERIA VIA STATO.

One more reason why online reviewing should replace dictatoresque reviews.

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Perhaps, though I'd like to think that a reviewer is being unbiased as much as possible, realizing that it's a review which, by definition, is still only one person's opinion. The reviewer has a responsibility to be as professional as possible. He seems to take umbrage at the restaurant's wine program which, in my experience, is one of the best aspects of the place. I've never seen more variety at so many different price levels than here. In this case I suspect there's more "history" behind Bruno's impressions of the place (or, perhaps, the management) than meets the eye, as most of his impressions of the food were most complimentary.

[ronnie_suburban]

I'm confounded at Pat Bruno's 1-1/2-star review of OSTERIA VIA STATO.

One more reason why online reviewing should replace dictatoresque reviews.

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I couldn't agree more. In the end I rely on the opinions of our society members (and those at a few other select web sites) far more frequently than I rely on "reviewers." Although, I do often agree with Phil Vettel of the Chicago Tribune.

If anyone is interested in discussing this issue further, earlier this week, we tried to get a discussion of Chicago food critics off the ground here:

Chicago Dining Critics

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[Tess]

My boyfriend went in right when they opened and he said the food was delicious but "kind of sparse." I think what happened was that the guys he was with didn't understand the ordering process and somehow ended up with only a couple of small plates. They may have been sitting at the bar (is there one?) and I'm sure they were drinking, so there may have been some confusion. Anyway, they liked the short ribs.

The 1 1/2 stars seems stingy in relation to the content of the review. I get the feeling from the first paragraph that he is not a Lettuce fan, so he may have knocked off a point just for that. At least the review is fairly detailed about what the food is like. I'm still certainly planning to go there.

[chefseanbrock]

after reading the review, it seemed like he loved the food........why such a low rating????

[ronnie_suburban]

after reading the review, it seemed like he loved the food........why such a low rating????

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Exactly. What was left out and why?

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[jesteinf]

2 stars from Phil Vettel in today's Trib...

http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/chi...1,5001088.story

Seems a bit low based on the experiences he describes, but probably appropriate given his ratings of other restaurants.

[gmi3804]

2 stars from Phil Vettel in today's Trib...

http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/chi...1,5001088.story

Seems a bit low based on the experiences he describes, but probably appropriate given his ratings of other restaurants.

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Two stars seems fair if it means "very good" and three stars means "extraordinary" and four stars means "perfection." It's certainly more fair than the Bruno review!

OVS offers a wonderful dining experience, maybe suffering a bit in the star ratings because it's not as "formal" as your typical restaurant meal.

Edited February 5, 2005 by gmi3804 (log)

[Alex]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

[gmi3804]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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I haven't been for lunch, but you can expect the same quality as at dinner. And, importantly, the same wine list! Don't forget that this is an all-you-can-eat place, though they don't really advertise that much; if you want more, ask - even entrees, I'm told, though I've always been too stuffed by the time I've attempted to finish mine! At $17.95, this is a steal. Allot enough time, and you'll have a blast.

[ronnie_suburban]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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According the this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, OvS is also currently offering 1 free, 4 oz. pour with lunch.

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[Alex]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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According the this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, OvS is also currently offering 1 free, 4 oz. pour with lunch.

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Great. I'm there (even though the wine probably is one of their $15-flight selections).

I like this story that also is reached via the above Dish link: "Funny Conversation with the Guy Who Answered the Phone at Reza’s on Clark."

[ronnie_suburban]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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According the this week's installment of Chicago Magazine's Dish, OvS is also currently offering 1 free, 4 oz. pour with lunch.

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Great. I'm there (even though the wine probably is one of their $15-flight selections).

I like this story that also is reached via the above Dish link: "Funny Conversation with the Guy Who Answered the Phone at Reza’s on Clark."

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Agreed . . . on the wine speculation and the Reza's story

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[outofthefrypan]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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What else is on your short list, Alex? Have you been to Avec yet? It seems obvious with the communal seating and small plates that OVS was conceived as a Lettuce take on the already-successful Chicago version of this concept. Not to knock it for this reason--OVS sounds very well-executed and I can't wait to go there myself. Lunch seems like a steal.

[Alex]

I believe they're now serving lunch. According to Phil Vettel, "The format is the same, but there are fewer antipasti and the main courses include pasta, salads and panini. The lunch price is $17.95."

Any lunch reports? I'll be in Chi in a few weeks; OVS certainly is on my short list.

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What else is on your short list, Alex? Have you been to Avec yet? It seems obvious with the communal seating and small plates that OVS was conceived as a Lettuce take on the already-successful Chicago version of this concept. Not to knock it for this reason--OVS sounds very well-executed and I can't wait to go there myself. Lunch seems like a steal.

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I've thought about Avec. A few visits ago, several of us eG'ers walked past the place but it was packed. I'm also considering Spring, Marché ($50 certificate, y'know), MOD (no corkage fee on Tuesdays!), Vie, and Hema's. The choices also depend on any yet-to-be-determined dinner companions.

[little ms foodie]

I was in Chicago last week and had dinner at Osteria Via Stato Saturday night. The place was packed! We had reservations but I heard the front desk telling walk ins that it was about 1 to 1 1/2 wait.

Even with our reservations we had a 20 min. wait in the bar. We each ordered a drink, my dining companion picked a wine and it came as a quatiro (sp?) for $8. Very cool! And in great stemware. The bar also featured nice boards listing wine options and their cheese menu.

Finally seated at a communal table for 6- us in the middle. I love communal dining but the tables are a bit wide which makes it hard to talk across the table. The thing I hated was these stupid wood dividers they put up between you and the others at your table! WTF??? only in america! So you have to talk to your neighbors and get permission to remove them otherwise you feel like your at one end of a bowling lane! Here's a thought.......if it's a communal table......IT'S A COMMUNAL TABLE!

Well lucky for us our table mates felt the same so we had no borders! Some bread and olives in olive oil were presented and I also ordered a quartino of wine ($8!! steal of the week for sure!)

Antipasta arrived and was excellent: Salami with celery slices and olive oil, cabage and garbanzo bean salad, mozzarella, sweet onion gratin, seafood salad. Everything excellent! They tell you just to ask for more of anything you especially like.

Next was fresh pasta- papperdelle with bolanese (sorry for all the bad spelling!) and penne with sage and brown butter. Both excellent!

I had the veal breast stuffed with Italian sausage and my companion had the braised short ribs. Again the entrees were great too but I could hardly eat even half. The other stuff was filling!

We skipped dessert/coffee. I have to say this it the best value I have come across in a long time! I would definately eat here again.

It is loud (not romantic!), semi casual, inexpensive and fun!

[jglazer75]

I'll kick in another thumbs up for OSV. I ate there a few weeks ago and it was excellent. Can't remember what I had, though I'm sure if I put my brain behind it I could, but such is life - it doesn't really matter because you won't have the same thing I did. Anyway. It's sufficient to say that the food was EXCELLENT. I was surprised at the number of 'final course' options there were. And, if you can I would suggest the wine flights that are paired with the meals - our wines were excellent and complimented the ideas for each meal well (even if the flavors weren't exactly complimentary). Anyway. Excellent food, no problems with service. Inexpensive might be an exaggeration - we paid $91/person with the meal, mid-price wine flight, coffee (no dessert), and tip.