farmicia in old city

[arice]

i'm curious to hear about Farmicia if anyone has been and cares to share their experience. i had a res during restaurant week, but had to cancel.

thanks,

arice

[Rich Pawlak]

i'm curious to hear about Farmicia if anyone has been and cares to share their experience.  i had a res during restaurant week, but had to cancel. 

thanks,

arice

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I dont think its open yet.

[Greg Salisbury]

It opened on Thursday. I went to the soft open on Tues. They warmed up the space nicely, menus were laid out in a clever fashion (like a patient record), amazingly fairly priced wine selection (they were pouring Castle rock Cab and Long Chard-pinot grigio by the glass, both ta-stee) and a list of five or six tonics that they create with infusions, juices, herbs, blahblahblah. Tried one, very good. As for the food, it showed promise. It was night 1, so there is no way to say anything credible. But considering the principals - James and Wendy from Metropolitan, Kevin from White Dog - definitely worth checking out in the culinary wasteland known as Old City.

[KatieLoeb]

It opened on Thursday. I went to the soft open on Tues. They warmed up the space nicely, menus were laid out in a clever fashion (like a patient record), amazingly fairly priced wine selection (they were pouring Castle rock Cab and Long Chard-pinot grigio by the glass, both ta-stee) and a list of five or six tonics that they create with infusions, juices, herbs, blahblahblah. Tried one, very good. As for the food, it showed promise. It was night 1, so there is no way to say anything credible. But considering the principals - James and Wendy from Metropolitan, Kevin from White Dog - definitely worth checking out in the culinary wasteland known as Old City.

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Cool! I have to stop in. I haven't seen Kevin in years. I worked with him at White Dog "back in the day" as it's said, so it'll be nice to say hello. Looks like they're sourcing good wine too. I buy the Castle Rock Pinot Noir for by-the-glass at Rouge from the same purveyor and had the Long wines on the list at Striped Bass before. All good stuff.

[arice]

greg, thanks for the info. it sounds promising and i'm looking forward to it.

i'm rebooked for mid-october.

arice

[Andrew Fenton]

We've now been to Farmicia twice, and have had a pleasant experience both times. The menu is maybe a little over-cute, with a "prescription" theme that divides dishes into small, medium and full doses. But I like the three sizes; if you're not so hungry, you can get a good meal without stuffing yourself to the gills.

Anyway, we were hungry last night, and each went the app + entree route. The wild mushroom bisque was solid: rich, creamy and fragrant. One of those dishes you eat and ask yourself, "why don't I eat this more often"? Man, I love mushroom soup. Asian pear and crab slaw was also very good: lots of crab and a light, subtle dressing (lime juice, fish sauce, lemongrass oil, some chopped mint and parsley).

We went full-out meaty goodness for the entrees: I had terrific escallopes of veal with sauteed bok choy and an exemplary pumpkin-pancetta risotto. I'm told that the beef filet and ribeye were both good as well; certainly, the big ol' pat of butter melting all over the ribeye bodes well for deliciousness.

Dessert? You betcha. Ricotta fritters with hazelnut cream (think wee donuts) and a triple-custard parfait (vanilla, dark chocolate, butterscotch) were satisfying, as was the Metropolitan chocolate cake. I couldn't reach across the table to get at the lemon cream puff without getting a fork in my arm, but it looked good.

The wine list seems good, but I'm pretty ignorant. Prices are about what you'd expect ($16-$19 for the big plates, $6-8 for small). There's also a pretty good selection of vegetarian and vegan options: a separate section with five or so items.

[philadining]

I've been to Farmicia twice now, and liked it both times, although some things seemed a touch understated. I'm all for leaving good ingredients to speak for themselves, but if they NEED a little push...

For starters, we've had the corn crepe with wild mushrooms and squash, the lentil salad with goat cheese, the minestrone soup, and an apple/smoked-cheddar salad. These were all solid and comforting but teetering on the edge of boring. (These were mostly "small doses" except for the crepe, although the lentil salad was WAY more substantial than any of the others. I'm not sure I understand the delineation between small and medium doses.)

For entrees we've tried the duck, which could never be accused of being dull. I loved it, but it was a bit over-the-top for my dining companion, who couldn't quite hack the assertive anise-cardamom-black pepper vibe. The pork loin was fabulous, stuffed with veggies and cheese. The leg of lamb was very comforting, thin slices set in a bowl of white beans and broth, but could have used a little push of... something.... I found myself adding salt and pepper, which I almost never do. The scallops were perfectly cooked, with a pleasingly distinct citrus fragrance, but the vegetables and broth underneath somehow had almost no flavor.

The chocolate layer cake and apple tart were fine, but I wouldn't bother getting them again, the rice pudding tasted like, well, rice. Their gingerbread was really good.

Rick Nichols complains about careless execution in a recent Inky column:

but I've experienced no such thing, everything we had was very well made, just sometimes a little plain. Nichols makes a good point that the local farm/organic thing is not exactly unique in town, so they might not want to lean entirely on that aspect of the food as their defining image.

I'll be going back to try more, but I hope they amp-up some of the flavors a bit. Maybe this phenomenon is just part of the time of year: fall food is more about comfort.

I had liked the food at Novelty, so I'm glad there's still good food in that location, but there's a lot of competition in that neighborhood.

Here's the official website.

[Andrew Fenton]

Rick Nichols complains about careless execution in a recent Inky column:

but I've experienced no such thing, everything we had was very well made, just sometimes a little plain. Nichols makes a good point that the local farm/organic thing is not exactly unique in town, so they might not want to lean entirely on that aspect of the food as their defining image. 

Mostly that column reads as kind of cranky: I agree that local & organic is no longer something to hang a menu on, but I don't have the sense that they're doing that. I couldn't understand what his beef was with the pharmacy theme: as I said, it's a little over-cute, but I'd leave it at that.

Agreed on the inconsistency of portion size: the soup was a small cup, as opposed to a large mound of slaw. I didn't feel that one was too big or too small, but it was a little odd.

Also agreed that the menu isn't going to blow anybody away with its radical taste sensations. I haven't found anything to be badly prepared or bland (the one disappointing dish, an eggplant-bread salad, has been taken off the menu), but it's definitely on the comfort end of the spectrum. As you suggest, this may be a function of the fall menu.

[philadining]

More reviews:

Lauren McCutcheon in the Philadelphia Weekly

Elisa Ludwig in the City Paper

[shinyboots]

With all the critical buzz, I just had to stop into Farmicia. As a Metropolitan Bakery employee, there was also the added incentive of supporting my employer (I thought it may get me a little discount, a little under the table dealing, -- no dice).

I tried the Pear and Mache salad, and finished with the Eggplant Cannelloni (what a meal deal!). I was too full for Dessert, but a little walking around made enough room for some of Petit 4's signature cake (I put up a pic of that as well).

I posted my review on my blog: Minor Gourmandry

[herbacidal]

Mostly that column reads as kind of cranky: I agree that local & organic is no longer something to hang a menu on, but I don't have the sense that they're doing that.  I couldn't understand what his beef was with the pharmacy theme: as I said, it's a little over-cute, but I'd leave it at that.

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Really? I'd think that local and organic is something that a restaurant can hang their menu on. Other restaurants may be doing it, but if one restaurant does it well

(or does it that much better than the others) and gets press acclaim for it, I'm sure success is feasible.

Isn't that what Blue Hill does in NYC?

That said, I'm not sure, but I think Fork may hold some claim to that title here, and maybe there's not enough room in a smaller market for 2 restaurants of that caliber competing in that arena.

[Andrew Fenton]

I guess my point is that there are already a lot of restaurants that do the fresh and local thing. The White Dog has been doing it for ages, of course, and for a long time was pretty unique in this area, but there are lots of others now, including Django, Rx and so on. By now, nobody really blinks at the concept; it's almost expected and won't work as a gimmick. But I hasten to repeat that I don't see Farmicia's version as a gimmick.

[mrbigjas]

we went to farmicia tonight for a dinner before a show. everything that everyone has said is still true. very pleasant service; nice cooking without being especially exciting; great ingredients.

i started with a white bean and garlic soup with a fried leek garnish. it was pureed and there was little garlic flavor to it; and actually it tasted like... well, my wife said it tasted like sausage; i didn't think so. it was ok. her app was a crab/asian pear salad that was piled with huge chunks of really great lump crab for this time of year. my only complaint about it was that the pear tended to overwhelm the crab--oddly enough the bites that worked were the few that had cilantro leaves in them. somehow the cilantro brought the two flavors together--if only there had been more of that and less of the tasteless textureless mache or snow pea shoots or whatever those microgreens were, the dish would have worked pretty darn well.

actually come to think of it what both of those apps tasted like to me was white pepper, which i have to admit is one of the few relatively common ingredients i don't like all that much. that would make sense in the soup, at least.

my dinner was the striped bass with chanterelles, creamed leeks and some roasted potatoes. i'm always a sucker for fish with mushrooms; to me it's like surf and turf, but without having to eat that much. it was excellent.

hers was the bean tamales, which... well, she loved the roasted vegetables they came with, which were onions that had basically caramelized, and maybe some fennel (i didn't have them to know) and the pickled carrots which were similar to what you get at tequilas without the peppers. as far as the tamales themselves: the bean and queso filling was pretty good, but the masa wasn't flavorful and the proportions were off and... well, i wouldn't have ordered them to start with.

i washed everything down with a couple of glasses of the alain jaume cotes du rhone, which was served in a tumbler rather than a regular wine glass, and was too warm but otherwise nice and an OK price at $7.

i really recommend the striped bass though.

oh btw, they've dropped the light dose/full dose stuff, dividing the menu without naming things.

[rlibkind]

Went to Farmicia tonight with two cousins and their spouses, and the six of us were decidedly underwhelmed. We only ordered mains, so I can't report on the salads and small plates, nor desserts. But the only successful main was the stewed lamb, which I and another diner ordered. Nicely flavored broth-like sauce, tender lamb chunks, good veggie mix and, of course, the white beans. The rest of the party ordered two different fishes and the vegetarian pot pie. Both fishes were overcooked (dry) and hardily sauced. The pot pie was 90% potatoes, with what only appeared to be some carrots and little onion. As the person who ordered it complained: "If I wanted potato pie I would have ordered it."

The server must have divined the general lack of enthusiasm, because she never stopped by to ask how our meal was.

I must say, though, that I enjoyed my Schuetz Oles zinfandel.

[KatieLoeb]

Craig LaBan's Farmicia Review from today's Philadelphia Inquirer.

Bob, if you're fond of the Schuetz Oles Zinfandel they ought to still be serving it by the glass at Rouge as well. I don't think that will ever come off the by the glass selections there because it's so popular. It's very tasty wine. Unfortunately, I can't put it on here at Oyster House because it's a bit cost inneffective for me. Too pricey for me to keep it in line with my other glass choices. I do have a lovely Zinfandel from Castle Rock as an alternative for next time you drop by.

[rlibkind]

Craig LaBan's Farmicia Review from today's Philadelphia Inquirer.

Bob, if you're fond of the Schuetz Oles Zinfandel they ought to still be serving it by the glass at Rouge as well.  I don't think that will ever come off the by the glass selections there because it's so popular. It's very tasty wine.  Unfortunately, I can't put it on here at Oyster House because it's a bit cost inneffective for me.  Too pricey for me to keep it in line with my other glass choices.  I do have a lovely Zinfandel from Castle Rock as an alternative for next time you drop by.

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As much as I'm a Zin head (and I am, I am), I can never bring myself to try a red at SSOH. I'm usually drinking beer with my oysters or fried whatever, though sometimes I'll go for a white of whatever's by the glass. As for the Schuetz Oles, I tasted their "Esther's Reserve' '99 during a Cactus League visit to Roaring Fork Restaurant in Scottsdale last spring. Wow! Pricey, but delish, so I can understand why you won't be offering it at SSOH; besides, like me, I can't imagine a lot of folks there go for fuller reds -- though I've been enjoy Zin with grilled salmon.

I saw LaBan's review this morning. Based on his comments, seems like we should have gotten some salads! My lamb must have been better than his, but his fish was better than my companions'.

[KatieLoeb]

As much as I'm a Zin head (and I am, I am), I can never bring myself to try a red at SSOH. I'm usually drinking beer with my oysters or fried whatever, though sometimes I'll go for a white of whatever's by the glass. As for the Schuetz Oles, I tasted their "Esther's Reserve' '99 during a Cactus League visit to Roaring Fork Restaurant in Scottsdale last spring. Wow! Pricey, but delish, so I can understand why you won't be offering it at SSOH; besides, like me, I can't imagine a lot of folks there go for fuller reds -- though I've been enjoy Zin with grilled salmon.

I saw LaBan's review this morning. Based on his comments, seems like we should have gotten some salads! My lamb must have been better than his, but his fish was better than my companions'.

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I'm sure the Schuetz Oles "Esther's Reserve" is not what's being offered by the glass anywhere I can think of. The "entry level" Zin is what's getting poured by the glass. But since that is so well made, I can only imagine how delicious the reserve level stuff is.

Next time you stop by SSOH, I have a new Verdicchio on by the glass that ought to be tasty with whatever you're ordering. Ask the bartender or your server for a taste.

[corinnesweeney]

Any one want to comment on dinner at Farmicia in Old City?

[Buckethead]

Any one want to comment on dinner at Farmicia in Old City?

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I've been there twice, once for the preview night and then again about a month later. The salads are all good, the apps and entrees are hit or miss. I had a vegetable 'pot pie' on my second visit that was not a pot pie by any means, but a bowl of below-average vegetable soup with a biscuit on top. I did have an arctic char/lentil dish that was pretty good. In my two visits there, nothing I had knocked my socks off. The TV (Totally Vegetarian) dinners are good, as well as reasonably priced.

Unfortunately, I can't say the same about the wine. All the glasses I tried were great, but the portions are *ridiculously* small. Normally I can get through a split appetizer and an entree with one glass of wine, at Farmicia I had to get two, and I was really making those last. I hate to sound like a cheapskate, but with so many great BYOs around, the wine portions are reason enough for me not to go back there.

Desserts are OK, but nothing spectacular. In all, I would rather go back to Bistro 7, a BYO a block north of Farmicia, which also happens to be run by an ex-White Dog chef.